INDEX. Lonely Planet Publications

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1 INDEX Lonely Planet Publications See also separate indexes for: Arts Drinking & Nightlife Eating Shopping Sights Sleeping Top Picks p259 p259 p259 p260 p261 p262 p263 A Abbeville 227 Abita Springs 234 absinthe 175 accommodations , see also Sleeping airport 213 bookings 201, 202, 204 CBD & Warehouse District Bywater French Quarter Central City haunted hotels 203 Mid-City & the Tremé 214 pet-friendly 209 Uptown & Riverbend volunteering packages 205 activities, see canoeing, fishing air travel 235 All Saints Day Almonaster y Roxas, Don Andrés 69, 111 ambulance 240 antebellum period 21-5 antiques 131, see also Shopping Aquarium of the Americas 90 architecture significant buildings 37 Armstrong, Louis 32, 33, 44, festivals map pages statue photographs 113 art galleries, see Arts art markets 195 arts 30-6, cinema dance 198 information 196 post-katrina culture & works 61, 193, 198, 234 theater ATMs 241 Audubon, John J 202, 221, 222 Audubon Zoological Gardens Avery Island B B&Bs, see Sleeping babysitting 239 Banksy 197 Barataria Preserve Bartholomew, Dave 35, 74 bars, see also Drinking & Nightlife business hours 177 hotel bars 212 bathrooms 244 Batiste, Uncle Lionel 34 Battle of New Orleans 25 reenactment 13 Bayou Bacchanal 16 Bayou St John 111 Beauregard, General Piere Gustave Toutant 73 Bechet, Sidney 33, 113 beer 176, see also root beer Behrman, Martin 77 Bellocq, EJ 193 Besh, John 154 restaurants 159, 160, 208 bicycling Biloxi 234 Black Code, see Code Noir Blaine Kern s Mardi Gras World 91 blues 34 boat tours 91, 227, boat travel 236 Bocage Plantation 219 Bolden, Charles Buddy 32 Bonaparte, Napoleon books 31, see also literature history 19 boucheries 228 Bourbon St 76 Breaux Bridge Brennan family 154 restaurants 152-3, 155, 160, 162 Bring Back New Orleans commission 59 Brown, Michael 58 brunch 148 Burke, James Lee 228, 229 bus travel 236 business hours 239, see also inside front cover bars & pubs 177 restaurants 148 shops 120 Butler, Henry 183 Butler, Major General Benjamin Beast 25-6, 69 Byrd, Rolan Professor Longhair 35, 51 Bywater, see Faubourg Marigny & Bywater C Cabildo Cajun culture 138, 228 music 36, people 24 Cajun Village 220 canoeing 232, 233 car travel rental Carnival, see Mardi Gras Cat Island National Wildlife Refuge 223 cathedrals, see Sights CBD & Warehouse District 85-93, 86-7 accommodations art galleries drinking & nightlife food internet resources 90 shopping 128 Celebration in the Oaks 16 cell phones 243 cemeteries, see Sights Central Business District, see CBD & Warehouse District Central City, see Garden, Lower Garden & Central City chefs 154 children, travel with 53, 104, 239 Christmas 16, 138 churches, see Sights cinema 197-8, see also Arts City Park Civil War 25-6 museum 90-1 Claiborne, Governor WCC 23 classical music 198 climate 12, 239 clothing sizes 129 cocktails 14-15, Code Noir 22 Codrescu, Andrei 46, 126 Common Ground Relief 117 Congo Sq 113 Connick, Harry Jr 33, 44, 47, 59, 82 consulates 240 costs 16-17, 51, 148, 150, 177, 201 taxes 122, 243 Courir de Mardi Gras 230 courses 239 crawfish 141 festivals 14, credit cards 241 Creole culture 43 history 82 people 21, 24-5 customs regulations 239 D dance 198 de Marigny de Mandeville, Bernard Xavier Philippe 82 de Pauger, Adrien 20, 68 Degas, Edgar 214 INDEX 255

2 lonelyplanet.com INDEX demographics 24-5, 40, 58, 61 Dirty Dozen Brass Band 34 disabilities, travelers with 244 disaster tourism 62, 205 Domino, Fats 35, 51, 74, 230 Donaldsonville 219 drinking , see also Drinking & Nightlife CBD & Warehouse District festivals Bywater French Quarter Central City go cups 177 Mid-City & the Tremé museums 92 Uptown & Riverbend driving, see car travel Duany houses 118 E electricity 239 embassies 240 emergencies 240 environmental issues 40-1, 60-1 Essence Music Festival 14 Eunice European settlement 20-1 F Fair Grounds Race Track , see also New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival farmers markets 172 fashion 126, see also Shopping Fat Tuesday, see Mardi Gras Bywater 80-4, 81 accommodations art galleries 194 drinking & nightlife food internet resources map pages 000 photographs self-guided tour 83-4 shopping Faulkner, William 202 house 78, 126 fax services 243 Feast of St Joseph 138 Federal Emergency Management Agency 57-8 Ferdinand, Roy 30 ferries, see boat travel festivals & events 12-16, see also Mardi Gras, New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival All Saints Day Audubon Pilgrimage 222 Battle of New Orleans Celebration 13 Bayou Bacchanal 16 Celebration in the Oaks 16 Christmas 16, 138 Courir de Mardi Gras 230 Crawfish Festival Essence Music Festival 14 Feast of St Joseph 138 Feux de Joie 16 French Quarter Festival 14 Great French Market Tomato Festival 14 Halloween 15 La Grande Boucherie 228 Louisiana Crawfish Festival 14 Louisiana Zydeco Festival 229 Martin Luther King Jr Day 13 New Orleans Arts District Art Walk 195 New Year s Eve 16 Prospect St Claude Arts District Gallery Openings 195 Southern Decadence 15 St Patrick s Day 13, 138 Sugar Bowl 13 Tales of the Cocktail Tennessee Williams Literary Festival 14 Voodoo Music Experience 15 White Linen Night 15 Wine & Food Experience 14 films 35, see also Arts, cinema fire services 240 fishing 233, 234 flooding 57, see also Hurricane Katrina, Mississipi Flood folk art 30-1 food 127, , see also Eating bookings brunch 148 CBD & Warehouse District celebrations crawfish 14, 141, farmers markets 172 Bywater festivals 14, 225-6, 228 French Quarter Central City gumbo 142-3, 144 history king cakes 147 Mid-City & the Tremé museums 92 oysters 140-1, 157, 8 po boys 143, 170, 8 recipes 144 snowballs 171 specialties streets 159 Uptown & Riverbend football Sugar Bowl 13 French Market 72, 124 French Quarter 68-79, 70-1, 2 accommodations art galleries drinking & nightlife festival 14 food internet resources 69 self-guided tour 78-9, 78 shopping funk music 34-5 G Gallier House Museum 73 Gallier, James Jr 38, 73, 111 Gallier, James Sr 73, 88, 112 Central City , 96-7 accommodations art galleries drinking & nightlife food internet resources 100 self-guided tours , 99 shopping gardens 98, 105, see also Sights gay travelers 240 accommodations 207 drinking & nightlife 180 festivals 15 Gentilly 116 Gentilly Terrace 117 geography 40-1, 75 ghosts, see haunted hotels gifts 127, see also Shopping Glatz, Lindsay 193 go cups 177 Grand Isle 233 Gray Ghost 197 Great French Market Tomato Festival 14 Gulf Coast of Mississippi Gulfport 234 gumbo 142-3, 144 H Haardt, Anton 31, gallery Halloween 15 Harrah s Casino 92-3 Harrison, Donald Jr 33 haunted hotels 203 Henderson 227 Herbsaint 175 hip-hop 36 history antebellum period 21-5 Battle of New Orleans 13, 25 books 19 Civil War 25-6 European settlement 20-1 food Jazz Age 27 Mardi Gras 42-5 Mississippi Flood 27 New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival 50-1 post-katrina redevelop ment 29-30,

3 pre-european era 20 segregation 26-7, 28, 69, 82, 95 slavery 22-4 tourism development 29 WWII 28 yellow fever epidemics , 104 holidays 240 hostels, see Sleeping hotels, see Sleeping Houma 232 House of Dance & Feathers 83, 118 Howard, Henry 98-9, 211, 220 Hunter, Clementine 30 Hurricane Katrina 56-62, see also post-katrina redevelopment arts 61, 193, 198, 234 emergency response 57-8 evacuation 56 flooding 57, 58 Louisana Superdome 57 New Orleans Convention Center 57 racial & economic divides 58 storm surges 56-7 Hurricane Rita 58 hurricanes 12 flood protection 57 I Independence Day 14 Indian Sunday insurance 238 internet access 240 internet resources 17 accommodations bookings 201, 202, 204 CBD & Warehouse District 90 Bywater 82 French Quarter 69 Central City 100 Mid-City & the Tremé 110 Uptown & Riverbend 104 Irish Channel 95 ironwork 38 itineraries 11, 34, 66-7, 216 J Jackson, Andrew 23, 25 Jackson Sq 68-9 jazz 32-4 New Orleans Jazz National Historic Park 73 Jazz Age 27 Jazz Fest, see New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival Jim Crow law 27, 28 Jindal, Bobby 29-30, 41 Joe s Dreyfus Store 220 Jones, Eddie Guitar Slim 34 K Katrina, see Hurricane Katrina K-Doe, Ernie 35, 88, 190 Keyes, Arthur Francis Parkinson 73 king cakes 147 krewes 43-4, 46-7 KKProjects 82-3, 117 L La Grande Boucherie 228 Lafayette 224-5, 7 Lafitte (town) 232 Lafitte, Jean 23 blacksmith shop 78-9 Lafitte s Blacksmith Shop 178 Lagasse, Emeril 154, 162 restaurants 153, Lake Vista 116 Lakeshore 116 Lakeview 116 Lanzas, Nilo 31, 196 Laveau, Marie 69, 74 crypt Le Moyne, Jean-Baptiste 20-1 Le Moyne, Pierre 20, 42 legal matters lesbian travelers 240 accommodations 207 drinking & nightlife 180 festivals 15 Levee Park 106 libraries 88, 90, 105 Link, Donald 154 restaurants literature festivals 14 live music 177, 179, 183, 185, see also Drinking & Nightlife lobsters, see crawfish Long Beach 234 Longfellow, Henry Wadsworth 228 Louis Armstrong New Orleans International Airport 235 Louis Armstrong Park 113 Louisiana ArtWorks 91-2 Louisiana Children s Museum 91 Louisiana Crawfish Festival 14 Louisiana Superdome 85-8 Hurricane Katrina 57 Louisiana Zydeco Festival 229 lounges, see Drinking & Nightlife Lower Garden District, see Garden, Lower Garden & Central City Lower Ninth Ward 57, 61, 117 M Madison, James 25 Magazine St 130 Make It Right foundation 60, Mamou 230 Mardi Gras 13, 42-50, 4 balls 49 Blaine Kern s Mardi Gras World 91 costume contests 49 food 137, 147 history 42-5 Indians 45 krewes 43-4, 46-7 parades 46-8 rules 50 traveler information Marigny, the, see Faubourg Marigny & Bywater Marsalis, Branford 33, 59, 82 Marsalis, Ellis 33, 52, 184 Marsalis, Wynton 33, 183 Martin Luther King Jr Day 13 medical services 241 Meters, the 35, 45, 51 Mid-City & the Tremé , accommodations 214 drinking & nightlife food internet resources 110 shopping Milneburg Mississippi Flood 27 Mississippi Gulf Coast Mississippi River 75 mobile phones 243 money 241-2, see also inside front cover, costs Morial, Earnest Dutch 28-9, 113 Morton, Jelly Roll 32 motorcycle travel multiculturalism 24-5, see also race relations, population Mumford, William 25 museums, see Sights music 31-6 blues 34 Cajun 36, classical 198 festivals 14, 15, 229 hip-hop 36 itineraries 34 jazz 32-4, 73 live music 177, 179, 183, 185 opera 198 R&B & funk 34-5 songs 32 zydeco 36, 229 Musicians Village 82, 117 N Nagin, Ray 29, 56, 58, 59 Native Americans 20 neighborhoods , 65 Neville, Aaron 35, 51 Neville, Art 35, 51 New Iberia New Orleans Center for Creative Arts 80-2 New Orleans Convention Center 57 New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival 14, 42, 50-5 children 53 costs 51 food & drink 54, history 50-1 shopping 54 New Orleans Museum of Art 110 lonelyplanet.com INDEX 257

4 lonelyplanet.com INDEX New Year s Eve 16 nightlife , see also Drinking & Nightlife O Ogden Museum of Southern Art 89 Oliver, Joe King 32 Opelousas 229 opening hours, see business hours opera 198 orientation 72 Ory, Kid 32-3 outsider art, see folk art oysters 140-1, 157, 8 P painting 30-1 parking 237 parks 98, 105, see also Sights Payton, Nicholas 33 pedestrian safety 243 people, see population Peters, Samuel Jarvis 21 pets 209 pharmacies 241 phonecards 243 Pitt, Brad 60, planning 15, 66-7, 148-9, 177, 201, 202, 204, 226 Plessy, Homer 27, 69, 82, 113 po boys 143, 170, 8, see also Eating police 240 Pontalba, Micaëla 38, 69, 73 Popeye s 142 population 40, 58, 61 multiculturalism 24-5 post-katrina redevelop ment 29-30, arts 61, 193, 198, 234 Bring Back New Orleans commission 59 delays 61 demographic shifts 40, 58, 61 disaster tourism 62, 205 enivronmental solutions 60-1 local businesses map pages 000 photographs opportunities 60 relief organizations 117 self-guided tours volunteering 62, 205, 245 postal serices 242 pre-european era 20 Presbytère 72 Professor Longhair 35, 51 Project Home Again 116 Prospect prostitution 77 Prudhomme, Paul 28, 136, 154, 162 restaurants 154 public holidays 240 pubs, see Drinking & Nightlife R R&B 34-5 race relations 24-5, 26-7, 28, 58, 61, 69, 82, 95 radio 242 Radtke, Fred 197 Rayne 225 recipes 144 responsible travel 62, 205, 235 restaurants, see Eating Rice, Anne 95 house 99 Riverbend, see Uptown & Riverbend riverboats, see boat travel River Road eating & drinking sleeping 221 Rodrigue, George 194, 209, 225 root beer 178 Royal St 76 Ruffins, Kermit 33, 34, 83, 92, 114, 174, 183 S Satchmo, see Armstrong, Louis Satchmo Summerfest 15 Schmidt, George 194 second lines 31, 46, 92, 6 segregation 26-7, 28, 69, 82, 95 self-guided tours Bywater 83-4, 84 French Quarter 78-9, 78 Central City , 99 separate but equal doctrine, see segregation shopping , see also Shopping business hours 120 Simon, David 114 slavery 22-4 Maspero s Exchange 77, 79 snowballs 171 soul food 139, see also Eating Southern Decadence 15 Spicer, Susan 154 restaurants St Augustine s Church St Francisville St Louis Cathedral 69 St Martinville St Patrick s Day 13, 138 Stanley, Henry Morton 97 steamboats 91 Storm, the see Hurricane Katrina Storyville 77 streetcar travel 105, 238 Sugar Bowl 13 Superdome, see Louisana Superdome T Tales of the Cocktail taxes 122, 243 taxis 238 telephone services 243 temples, see Sights theater 196-7, see also Arts theft 242 Thibodaux 232 Thomas, Irma 35 time 243 tipping 149, 177, 244 toilets 244 tourism development 29 tourist information 244 tours 242, see also boat tours, self-guided tours Toussaint, Allen 35 train travel 238 trams, see streetcars traveler s checks 242 Treme (TV series) 114 Tremé, the, see Mid-City & the Tremé Tremé Brass Band 34 trolleys, see streetcars Tulane University U Uptown & Riverbend 101-6, accommodations art galleries 196 drinking & nightlife food internet resources 104 shopping V vacations 240 vegetarian & vegan travelers Vietnamese community 89 Ville Platte 230 visas 244 volunteering 62, 205, 245 voodoo 26, see also Shopping, Sights es Laveau, Marie 74 Voodoo Music Experience 15 W Warehouse Distict, see CBD & Warehouse District Wayne, Lil 36 weather 12, 239 White Linen Night 15 Williams, Tennessee 14, 83 wine 176 Wine & Food Experience 14 Wine Institute of New Orleans 161 women travelers work 245 WWII 28 museums Y yellow fever epidemics 28, 95, 104 Z Zemanick, Sue 154 restaurants zydeco 36 festivals

5 ARTS ART GALLERIES A Gallery for Fine Photography 193 Anton Haardt Gallery Arthur Roger Gallery 194 Barrister s Gallery 194 Bergeron Studio & Gallery 194 Berta s & Mina s Antiquities 196 Cole Pratt Gallery 196 Dutch Alley 193 George Schmidt Gallery 194 Greg s Antiques 193 Harouni Gallery 193 Heriard-Cimino Gallery 194 Jean Bragg Gallery of Southern Art Kurt E Schon Ltd Gallery Lemieux Galleries 195 Michalopoulos Gallery 194 New Orleans Glasswork & Printmaking Studios 195 Newcomb Art Gallery 105 Rodrigue Studio 194 Rossie s Custom Framing 219 Simon of New Orleans 196, 5 Soren Christensen Gallery 195 Studio Inferno 194 ART MARKETS Art Market of New Orleans 195 Bywater Art Market 195 Freret Street Market 195 CINEMAS Canal Place Cinemas 197 Entergy IMAX Theater Prytania Theatre 198 Zeitgeist 198 THEATERS Contemporary Arts Center 196 Le Petit Théâtre du Vieux Carré Saenger Theatre 197 Southern Repertory Theater 197 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE BARS Balcony Bar 186 Boot 187 Bridge Lounge 186 Bulldog 186 Carousel Bar Columns Hotel 187 Cooter Brown s Tavern & Oyster Bar 187 Cure Dos Jefes Uptown Cigar Bar 188 F&M Patio Bar 188 Fahy s 178 French Hard Rock Hotel & Casino 234 Igor s Lounge Jean Lafitte s Old Absinthe House 178 Lafitte s Blacksmith Shop 178 Le Bon Temps Roulé 188 Lucy s Retired Surfers Bar 184 Mid-City Yacht Club Mimi s in the Marigny 182 Monkey Hill Bar 188 Napoleon House Pat O Brien s 179 Pirate s Alley Cafe 179 Polo Lounge Pravda 179 R Bar 182 Rendezvous 187 St Joe s Bar 188 Swizzle Stick Bar 185 Tropical Isle 179 Vaughan s 183 Vic s Kangaroo Café 185 CABARET Le Chat Noir 185 CLUBS Dungeon Hard Rock Hotel & Casino 234 DIVES Abbey Circle Bar 185 Dragon s Den 183 Half Moon 187 Hi Ho 183 Igor s Checkpoint Charlie 183 Ms Mae s 188 One Eyed Jacks 180 Saint Bar & Lounge 187 Saturn Bar Snake & Jakes 189 LIVE MUSIC Apple Barrel 184 Atchafalaya Club 227 Balcony Music 181 Carrollton Station 189 Chickie Wah Wah 190 Circle Bar 185 d.b.a. 184 Donna s Bar & Grill 181 Dragon s Den 183 Fred s Lounge 231 House of Blues 181 Howlin Wolf 185 Igor s Checkpoint Charlie 183 La Poussiere 226 Le Bon Temps Roulé 188 Liberty Theater 231 Maple Leaf Bar 189 Mid-City Rock & Bowl 190 One Eyed Jacks 180 Palm Court Jazz Café 181 Preservation Hall 181, 3, 6 Republic New Orleans 185 Saturn Bar Slim s Y-Ki-Ki 231 Snug Harbor 184 Tipitina s 189 Zydeco Hall of Fame 231 LOUNGES Bombay Club Hostel 182 K-Doe s Mother-in-Law Lounge 190 Le Phare Bar 186 Loa 186 Tonique 182 Whiskey Blue 186 Yuki Izakaya 184 PUBS Abita Brew Pub 234 Molly s at the Market 182 ROADHOUSES Rivershack Tavern 189 EATING AMERICAN Boucherie 167 Elizabeth s 158 Frady s One Stop Food Store 159 Gautreau s La Peniché 158 Marigny Brasserie 157 Mat & Naddie s 166 NOLA 153 Pig Stand 230 Surrey s Juice Bar 163 Trolley Stop 163 Wolfe s 149 Yo Mama s 156 BARBECUE Joint, The 158 CAFE A-Bear s Café 233 Birdman Coffee & Books 223 Café Beignet 156 Café du Monde 152 Cajun Village Coffee House 221 CC s Coffee House 152 Croissant d Or Patisserie 152 Fair Grinds 171 First & Last Chance Café 221 Flora Gallery & Coffee Shop 159 Grapevine Cafe 220 Kahve Royale 159 Magnolia Cafe Orange Couch 159 Refuel 169 Rob s Donuts 233 Rue de la Course 164 CAJUN Blue Dog Cafe 225 Bon Ton Café 160 Brigtsen s Restaurant 164 Cabin Restaurant 221 Cafe Des Amis 226 Cafe LaFourche 221 Cochon Coop s Place Crabby Jack s 168 DI Restaurant & Dance Hall 230 Franky & Johnny s 169 lonelyplanet.com INDEX 259

6 lonelyplanet.com INDEX Joe s Dreyfus Store 220 K-Paul s Louisiana Kitchen 154 Lagniappe, Too 229 Latil s Landing Mulate s 226 Old Tyme Grocery 225 Poche s 226 Prejean s Cajun Dining 225 R&M Boiling Point 229 Randol s 225 Victor s Cafeteria 229 CHINESE Five Happiness CREOLE Antoine s 153 Arnaud s 153 Brennan s Restaurant 152 Café Adelaide 160 Commander s Palace 162 Court of Two Sisters 155 Crabby Jack s 168 Creole Lunch House 225 Dick & Jenny s 165 Dooky Chase Emeril s Galatoire s 155 Ignatius 168 Muriel s Olivier s 155 Palace Café 155 Patois 165 Restaurant August 159 Restaurant de Familles 233 Tee-Eva s Creole Soul Food 169 Tujague s 149 CUBAN Liborio Cuban Restaurant 161 DELI Central Grocery 151 Mother s 161 NOLA Grocery 162 Poche s 226 St James Cheese Co 168 Stein s Deli 163 Verti Marte 152 Zara s map pages 000 photographs DINER Alibi 156 Angeli on Decatur 151 Blue Plate Café 164 Café Reconcile 164 Huevos 171 Joey K s Liuzza s by the Track 170 Schiro s Café Slim Goodie s Diner FARMERS MARKETS Crescent City Farmers Market 172 German Coast Farmers Market 172 Gretna Farmers Market 172 Harrison Ave Marketplace 172 Mid-City Green Market 172 Sankofa Marketplace 172 Upper Ninth Ward Market 172 FRENCH Café Amelie 150 Café Degas 170 Coquette 162 La Crepe Nanou 166 La Petite Grocery 166 Lilette Luke 160 Martinique Bistro 165 Patois 165 GRILL Camellia Grill 169 Clover Grill 152 Cooter Brown s Tavern & Oyster Bar Port of Call 150 Red Eye Grill 162 INDIAN Little Julie s India Kitchen ITALIAN Adolfo s Bacco 155 Fiorella s 151 Irene s Cuisine 150 Mandina s 170 Mona Lisa 151 Pascal s Manale 166 JAPANESE Kyoto Sake Café II 162 LOUISIANAN Bayona Carriage House Restaurant 223 Clementine Dining & Spirits 229 Cuvée 160 Dante s Kitchen 166 Fiorella s 151 Gros Place 233 Gumbo Shop 156 Herbsaint 160 Jacques-Imo s Café 165 Mr B s Bistro 153 Palace Cafe 230 Pascal s Manale 166 MEDITER- RANEAN Maple Street Café 167 MEXICAN Juan s Flying Burrito 163 Taqueria Corona 168 PIZZA Louisiana Pizza Kitchen 151 Slice 162 PO BOYS Domilise s Po-Boys 168 Guy s 169 Johnny s Po-Boys 156 Parasol s 164 Parkway Tavern 171 SEAFOOD 1921 Seafood & Oyster Bar 233 Acme Oyster & Seafood House 156 Cajun Seafood 172 Casamento s 168 Cooter Brown s Tavern & Oyster Bar Crawfish Town USA 227 Crazy Bout Crawfish 226 Drago s Seafood Restaurant 161 Dupuy s Oyster House 227 GW Fins 154 Hymel s Seafood 221 Jack Dempsey s Restaurant 157 Pat s Fisherman s Wharf 227 Shucks 227 SNACKS & SWEETS Angelo Brocato 171 Hansen s Sno-Bliz 169 Sucré 163 SOUL FOOD Dooky Chase Lil Dizzy s 172 Praline Connection 157 Tee-Eva s Creole Soul Food 169 Willie Mae s Scotch House 172 SPANISH Lola s 170 Rio Mar 161 STEAKHOUSE Dickie Brennan s TAKE-AWAY Cajun Seafood 172 McHardy s 172 VIETNAMESE 9 Roses 167 Dong Phuong Oriental Bakery 167 Kim Son 167 Pho Tau Bay 167 Tan Dinh 167 WEST AFRICAN Bennachin 150 WINE & CHEESE Bacchanal 158 Delachaise 167 SHOPPING ANTIQUES & MEMORABILIA Centuries 121 Collectible Antiques

7 David s 122 James H Cohen & Sons 122 Le Garage 122 Lucullus 121 Magazine Antique Mall 130 Moss Antiques 121 MS Rau Antiques Quarter Past Time 122 Southern Fossil & Mineral Exchange 130 Sword & Pen 124 ART & PHOTOGRAPHY Dark Room 129 Dr Bob s Studio 127 New Orleans Art Supply 127 New Orleans School of Glassworks 128 Photo Works 122 Porché West Gallery 127 Stone & Press BOOKS Arcadian Books & Art Prints 121 Beckham s Bookstore 121 Books on the Teche 228 Faubourg Marigny Book Store 128 Faulkner House Bookstore 78, 126 Garden District Bookshop 130 Librairie Books 121 Maple Street Bookstore 131 Starling Books & Crafts 126 CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES Aidan Gill for Men 129 Bourbon Strip Tease 125 C Collection 131 Dirty Coast 132 Fleur de Paris 124 Funky Monkey 131 House of Lounge Meyer the Hatter 128 Pied Nu 132 Retroactive 133 Shoefty 133 Style Lab for Men Sweet Pea & Tulip 132 Thomas Mann Gallery I/O 129 Trashy Diva 130 Winky s 129 Yvonne La Fleur 132 DAY SPAS Belladonna Day Spa 130 FLOWERS Flora Savage 123 FOOD & DRINK Big Fisherman Seafood 131 Central Grocery 123 Leah s Pralines 125 Southern Candy Makers 126 Tabasco Country Store 123 Vieux Carré Wine & Spirits 127 Wine Parlor 223 GIFTS Aidan Gill for Men 128 Boutique du Vampyre 123 Java House Imports 123 Mary Jane s Emporium 126 Maskarade 124 Save NOLA 123 Tabasco Country Store 123 Winky s 129 HOMEWARES Belladonna Day Spa 130 Hazelnut 132 Pied Nu 132 Santa s Quarters 123 MALLS Canal Place 125 Jackson Brewery 125 MASKS & COSTUMES Maskarade 124 Uptown Costume & Dancewear 132 MUSIC Floyd s Record Shop 230 Jim Russell s Records 129 Louisiana Music Factory Musica Latina Discoteca MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS International Vintage Guitars 128 New Orleans Music Exchange 131 Savoy Music Center PERFUME Hové Parfumeur 125 SPORTING GOODS Humidity Skate Store 126 SUSTAINABLE GOODS Green Project 128 TATTOOS Electric Ladyland 128 VOODOO & OCCULT Boutique du Vampyre 123 F&F Botanica 133 Starling Books & Crafts 126 Zombie s House of Voodoo SIGHTS AMUSEMENT PARKS Carousel Gardens 110 Storyland 110 AQUARIUMS Aquarium of the Americas 90 ARTS & MUSIC CENTERS Ashe Cultural Arts Center 98 Big Top Gallery & Three Ring Circus 98 Contemporary Arts Center 90 KKProjects 82-3, 117 Louisiana ArtWorks 91-2 Musicians Village 82, 117 New Orleans Center for Creative Arts 80-2 CASINOS Beau Rivage 234 Harrah s Casino 92-3 CEMETERIES Lafayette Cemetery No 1 95 Metairie Cemetery 112 St Louis Cemetery No St Louis Cemetery No St Roch Cemetery 83 CHURCHES & CATHEDRALS Mortuary Chapel 114 St Augustine s Church 114 St Louis Cathedral 69 COLLEGES & UNIVERSITIES Tulane University FACTORIES & MILLS Abita Brewery 234 Konriko Company Store & Conrad Rice Mill 228 McIlhenny Tabasco Factory 228 LIBRARIES Latter Memorial Library 105 New Orleans Public Library 88 Preservation Resource Center 90 MARKETS French Market 72 Hong Kong Food Market 89 Vietnamese Farmers Market 89 MUSEUMS 1850 House Museum 73 Acadian Cultural Center 224 Amistad Research Center 105 Backstreet Cultural Museum Blaine Kern s Mardi Gras World 91 lonelyplanet.com INDEX 261

8 lonelyplanet.com INDEX Cajun Music Hall of Fame 230 Civil War Museum 90-1 Gallier House Museum 73 Historic New Orleans Collection 76 Historic Voodoo Museum 73-4 Hogan Jazz Archive 105 House of Dance & Feathers 83, 118 Hula Mae s Laundry 74 Hurricane Katrina Exhibit 234 Insectarium 77 Longfellow-Evangeline State Historical Site 228 Louisiana Children s Museum 91 McKenna Museum of African American Art 98 Musée Conti Historical Wax Museum 77 National World War II Museum New Orleans African American Museum 114 New Orleans Museum of Art 110 New Orleans Pharmacy Museum 76-7 Oakley Plantation & Audubon State Historic Site 222 Ogden Museum of Southern Art 89 Opelousas Museum and Interpretive Center 229 Prairie Acadian Cultural Center 230 Presbytère 72 Preservation Resource Center 90 River Road African American Museum 219 Rosedown Plantation Historic Site 222 Southern Food & Beverage Museum 92 St Martinville Cultural Heritage Center 228 Wetlands Cajun Cultural Center map pages 000 photographs PARKS & GARDENS Afton Villa Gardens 222 Barataria Preserve Botanical Gardens Bywater Herb Farm 98 City Park God s Vineyard 98 Grand Isle State Park 233 Le Jardin du Soleil 98 Levee Park 106 Louis Armstrong Park 113 New Orleans Jazz National Historic Park 73 St Anthony s Garden 78 Sydney & Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden 111 SCULPTURES Scrap House 92 SIGNIFICANT BUILDINGS Anne Rice s House 99 Beauregard-Keyes House 73 Bocage Plantation 219 Butler Greenwood Plantation 222 Cabildo Colonel Robert Short s House 98-9 Cornstalk Hotel 78 Court of Two Lions 79 Destrehan Plantation 218 Factors Row 88 Gallier Hall 88 Goodrich-Stanley House 97 Grace King House 97 Hermann-Grima House 78 Houmas House 220 House of Broel 95-7 Joseph Carroll House 99 Labranche Buildings 78 Lafitte s Blacksmith Shop 78-9 Laura Plantation Laurel Valley Village 232 LeMonnier Mansion 79 Maspero s Exchange 77 Napoleon House 79 New Orleans Cotton Exchange 88 New Orleans Public Library 88 Nottoway Plantation Oak Alley Plantation 219 Old US Mint 75 Our Lady of the Rosary Rectory 111 Peychaud s Apothecary 79 Pitot House 111 San Francisco Plantation 218 Sanctuary 111 Shadows on the Teche 228 State Supreme Court Building 79 St Vincent s Infant Asylum 97 United Fruit Company 88 Ursuline Convent 72-3 SPORTS ARENAS Fair Grounds Race Track Louisiana Superdome 85-8 STREETS & SQUARES Bourbon St 76 Chartres St 84 Congo Sq 113 Frenchmen St 84 Jackson Sq 68-9 Lee Circle 92 Royal St 76 TEMPLES & SYNAGOGUES Chua Bo De 89 New Orleans Krishna Temple 112 Touro Synagogue 105 Trung Tam Phat Giao Van Hanh 89 VOODOO Chez Vodun 75 Historic Voodoo Museum 73-4 Voodoo Spiritual Temple 74, 5 ZOOS & SANCTUARIES Audubon Zoological Gardens Cat Island National Wildlife Refuge 223 Jungle Gardens 229 Wildlife Gardens 232 SLEEPING B&BS Ashton s Bed & Breakfast 214 Auld Sweet Olive Bed & Breakfast 207 Bittersweet Plantation Bed & Breakfast 221 Burgundy Bed & Breakfast 207 Butler Greenwood Plantation 223 Bywater Bed & Breakfast 208 Chimes 213 Degas House 214 Estorage-Norton House 229 Garden District B&B 212 Gentry Quarters Green House Inn Henry Howard House 211 House on Bayou Road 214 Isabelle Inn 227 La Caboose Bed & Breakfast 231 Lagniappe B&B Lamothe House 207 Lions Inn B&B Magnolia Mansion 211 Maison Des Amis Melrose Mansion 206 Myrtles Plantation B&B 223 Nottoway Plantation 221 Oak Alley Plantation 221 Park View Guest House 213 St Francisville Inn 223 Sully Mansion B&B 211 T Frere s B&B 225 Terrell House 211 Touch of Country B&B 229 Victorian Inn 233 BOUTIQUE HOTELS Columns Hotel 213 Hotel Royal 204 International House 209 Lafitte Guest House 202 Loft Soniat House

9 CABINS 3-V Tourist Court 223 Bayou Cabins 227 Chicot State Park Cabins HOSTELS India House Hostel 214 Marquette House Hostel HOTELS Astor Crowne Plaza 203 Avenue Garden Hotel 212 Best Western Eunice 231 Bourbon Orleans Hotel 205 Chateau Hotel 205 Dauphine Orleans 204 Doubletree Hotel New Orleans 210 Embassy Suites Hotel 209 Frenchmen Hotel 207 GREENDEX ATTRACTIONS 1850 House Museum 73 Ashe Cultural Arts Center 98 Audubon Zoological Gardens 101 Backstreet Cultural Museum 113 Big Top Gallery & Three Ring Circus 98 Cabildo 69 City Park 107 Hampton Inn New Orleans Downtown 210 Harrah s New Orleans 208 Historic French Market Inn 206 Hotel de la Monnaie 206 Hotel Maison de Ville & Audubon Cottages 202 Hotel Monteleone 202 Hotel Provincial Hotel St Marie 205 Hotel Villa Convento 203 Iberville Suites 204 Juliet 225 La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown 210 Lafayette Hotel 210 Le Pavillon 210 Le Richelieu 204 Loews New Orleans Hotel Maison St Charles 212 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel Gallier House Museum 73 Goodrich-Stanley House 97 Grace King House 97 Hermann-Grima House 78 Historic New Orleans Collection 76 Hula Mae s Laundry 74 KKProjects 82 Lafayette Cemetery No 1 95 Latter Memorial Library 105 Louisiana ArtWorks Olivier House 204 Prytania Park Hotel 212 Queen & Crescent Hotel Ritz-Carlton New Orleans 202 Roosevelt Hotel 208 Royal Sonesta 203 Sheraton New Orleans 209 St James Hotel 210 St Peter House Hotel 206 Ursuline Guest House 206 W French Quarter 202 W New Orleans 208 Westin New Orleans at Canal Place 205 Windsor Court Hotel 208 HOUSEBOATS Houseboat Adventures 227 McGee s Landing 227 McKenna Museum of African American Art 98 Musicians Village 82 New Orleans Center for Creative Arts 80 Presbytère 72 Preservation Resource Center 90 St Augustine s Church 114 St Charles Avenue Streetcar 105 St Louis Cathedral 69 TOP PICKS breakfast spots 163 children s activities 104 costumes & masks 132 free activities 76 fresh air 105 gay stays 207 hotel bars 212 late-night eats 151 museums 90 New Orleans history books 19 New Orleans tracks 32 NOLA films 35 not-to-miss architecture 37 only in New Orleans 92 pampered pets 209 places for souvenirs 125 po boys 170 shopping strips 123 GOING GREEN Lonely Planet is committed to responsible, sustainable travel. To that end, there are few destinations in the USA where your tourism dollar, well spent, has such an appreciable impact on a place s well-being as New Orleans. This is a city whose economy is, after all, primarily built on tourism. But green sensibility is not limited to the travel industry. As New Orleans rebuilds herself, she is becoming a petri dish for green construction, sustainable development and community revitalization models. As a city, she is full of heritage buildings and districts that represent a unique historical and cultural legacy. And the natural environment that ensconces her, the wetlands of the Gulf Coast, are a fragile and beautiful land- and water-scape whose preservation is wrapped up in New Orleans survival. By patronizing the businesses and sights listed here, we hope you can soak up the history and contribute to the rebirth of a great American city. St Louis Cemetery No Touro Synagogue 105 Zeitgeist 198 FOOD & DRINK Café Reconcile 164 SHOPPING Green Project 128 Save NOLA 123 lonelyplanet.com INDEX 263

10 Lonely Planet Publications MAP LEGEND ROUTES TRANSPORT HYDROGRAPHY BOUNDARIES AREA FEATURES Airport Area of Interest Building Campus Cemetery, Christian Forest POPULATION CAPITAL (NATIONAL) Large City Small City SYMBOLS Information Bank, ATM Embassy/Consulate Hospital, Medical Information Internet Facilities Police Station Post Office, GPO Sights Christian Hindu Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Ferry Rail River, Creek Swamp Parish Jewish Monument Museum, Gallery Point of Interest Ruin Zoo, Bird Sanctuary Shopping Shopping Eating Eating Mall/Steps Tunnel Pedestrian Overpass Walking Tour Walking Trail Streetcar Water Land Mall Market Park Sports Urban CAPITAL (STATE) Medium City Town, Village Drinking & Nightlife Drinking The Arts Arts Sleeping Sleeping Transportation Airport, Airfield Cycling, Bicycle Path Parking Area Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN Australia Head Office, Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011, % , fax , USA 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607, % , toll free , fax , UK 2nd f l, 186 City Rd, London, EC1V 2NT, % , fax , go@ lonelyplanet.co.uk Lonely Planet 2009 Photographs as listed (p246) 2009 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Printed through Colorcraft Ltd, Hong Kong. Printed in China. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - Do the right thing with our content. Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 264

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