Growing Citrus in Green Valley Gardens (22 Common Questions) Dr. Glenn C. Wright University of Arizona, Yuma Agriculture Center

Transcription

1 Growing Citrus in Green Valley Gardens (22 Common Questions) Dr. Glenn C. Wright University of Arizona, Yuma Agriculture Center

2 1. What variety should I grow? Lemons Highly productive, fairly cold sensitive Limes Highly productive, the most cold sensitive Oranges The most popular, fruit tends to dry out, particularly on sandy or gravelly soils Mandarins (Tangerines) Also popular, will occasionally dry out Tangelos Adaptable to any area Grapefruit and Pummelo Adaptable to any area It is against the law to bring citrus into Arizona from any other state.

3 Lemon Vigorous trees Acidic fruit May be harvested green or yellow, from late July until March Harvest when the fruit is big enough

4 Lisbon and Eureka Lemon Vigorous trees. Acidic fruit. Moderately frost tolerant, Lisbon more frost tolerant than Eureka. Eureka is thornless.

5 Improved Meyer Lemon Small trees. Moderately acidic fruit Improved Meyer is more frost tolerant than other lemons Improved Meyer is legal in Arizona. It has a thin peel, is very juicy, and has an orange coloration. Good for growing in pots

6 Mexican or Key Lime Small trees May be thorny May bloom continuously throughout the year Acidic, small fruit Fruit yellow when mature Very low frost tolerance

7 Bearss Lime Larger fruit than the Mexican Lime Trees short lived due to wood pocket disease Quite frost sensitive.

8 Orange Medium to Large trees Most popular citrus in the world May be harvested from November until May

9 Round Sweet Orange Early and mid-season varieties marketed in Arizona as Arizona Sweets Large tree Sweet, juicy fruit with few seeds Moderate frost tolerance Harvested November through February Best for juicing or eating fresh

10 Valencia Orange Late season, harvested from February until May Large tree Sweet, juicy fruit with few seeds Moderate frost tolerance May regreen in warm Spring months Best for juicing, has tough section walls

11 Navel Oranges Early through lateseason, harvested from November until March Large tree Sweet fruit with no seeds Moderate frost tolerance Best for fresh eating, is not particularly juicy Juice flavor deteriorates after the first day in storage 11

12 Pigmented (Blood) Orange Mid-season, harvested from December until February Large tree Sweet, juicy fruit with some seeds and a distinctive flavor Flesh and peel color requires cool nights to develop More color after January than before

13 Orange Ripening Chart Early Season October - December Hamlin Sweet Marrs Sweet Fukumoto Navel Fisher Navel Beck Navel Atwood Navel Mid Season November - February Trovita Sweet Diller Sweet Shamouti Salustiana Washington Navel Cara Cara Navel Moro Blood Tarocco Blood Late Season January - April Valencia Chislett Navel Powell Navel Lane Late Navel Sanguinelli Blood

14 Mandarins Small to Large trees Wide variety of fruit characteristics May be harvested from October until March

15 Clementine Mid-season, harvested from December until February Small to medium tree Fruit are small, easy to peel, and have a distinctive flavor, but may be seedy Seedless if grown in isolation Moderate frost tolerance Algerian, Fino, Clemenules, W. Murcott, are common cultivars. Tango is genetically seedless 15

16 Fairchild Early to mid-season, harvested from November until February Small to medium tree Fruit are small, rather difficult to peel, and seedy, but with good flavor Requires a pollinator for best production Moderate to good frost tolerance 16

17 Kinnow and Gold Nugget Both late season, harvested from February until March. Kinnow fruit are medium sized, not easy to peel, seedy, but are very sweet. Tends to bear alternately. Gold Nugget fruit are seedless and very sweet. Fruit are bumpy. Vigorous shoots should be pruned. Moderate to good frost tolerance 17

18 Minneola Tangelo Mid-season, harvested from December until February Large, vigorous tree Fruit are large, easy to peel, and juicy Moderate to good frost tolerance Susceptible to sunburn Orlando tangelo is a sibling

19 Grapefruit Large trees White or red fruit Mutations are not uncommon. May be harvested from November until June, best flavor after January

20 Marsh Grapefruit Vigorous, tall tree 3½ to 4 inch diameter fruit Seedless Good flavor

21 Pigmented Grapefruit Vigorous, tall tree. 3½ to 4 inch diameter fruit Seedless Good flavor Redblush (Ruby Red) is the most commonly available. Color fades. Rio Red flesh color is 5 times more intense than Redblush Flame is a good new variety from Florida

22 Pummelo Related to grapefruit Large, seedy fruit May be white or pigmented Generally, do not have a bitter flavor Chandler is a common variety. Also, Red and Sarawak.

23 Oro Blanco or Melogold Grapefruit x pummelo hybrid Combines the seedlessness of a grapefruit with the lack of acidity of the pummelo. Ready to eat in December and January. Peel becomes yellow

24 Cultivar labels 24

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26 Citrus Variety Primary Harvest Period Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Grapefruit Duncan Marsh Flame, Redblush (Ruby Red), Rio Red Texas Star Ruby Pummelo and Pummelo Hybrids Oroblanco Cocktail Tahitian (Sarawak), Reinking Melogold Chandler Lemons Eureka Lisbon Variegated Pink Eureka Improved Meyer Ponderosa Limes Mexican, Key, West Indian Tahiti, Bearss, Persian Kumquats, Kumquat Hybrids and other Specialty Citrus Meiwa, Nagami, Fukushu (These can have an occasional fruit year-round) Tavares Calamondin Australian Finger Lime 26

27 2. How can I get a dwarf Rootstock choice tree? Flying dragon and Cuban Shaddock are dwarfing (4-6 ft.). C-35 Citrange, Swingle Citrumelo, C-22 Citrange, and Trifoliate Orange are semi-dwarfing (8-12 ft.) All others are ft. Pot the tree Root restriction Restrict the wetted zone when irrigating Root restriction

28 3. How do I plant my tree? Plant in Spring or Fall No organic matter or soil amendments necessary Make hole sufficiently wide (loosen soil up to 3x the width of the ball), but not too deep Plant at grade or above, root flare and graft union should be visible. No air pockets, Tamp down well.

29 Tips for planting citrus in a pot Smaller pot = smaller tree, Any rootstock will be dwarfed in a pot, but dwarfing rootstocks will remain smaller, longer. A root bound tree will require root pruning. Ceramic pots will require additional watering because of potential for water loss through the porous sides. Always have a drainage hole(s) Use well-drained soil Fertilize as if the tree were no more than 3 years old. Bring indoors if night temperatures are less than 32 degrees. 29

30 4. How do I water my Avoid leaf curl tree? Water sufficiently deep Water sufficiently wide Water more in summer than in winter

31 4. How do I water my tree? Most roots are in the top three feet of soil, water to that depth. Use shovel, spade or probe to test Most roots extend at least as far out as the canopy. For a tree to grow to its capacity, the wetted pattern should extend out this far. Will need to add drippers, or extend the well as the tree grows.

32 4. How do I water my tree? Mature trees (3 years old or more). For flood or basin irrigation, apply water every 10 to 14 days in the hottest part of the summer, and every 3 to 4 weeks in the coolest part of the winter. For drip irrigation, irrigate every 3 to 10 days. Small, newly planted trees (up to two years after planting). For flood or basin irrigation, apply water every 2-7 days in the hottest part of the summer, and every 10 days in the coolest part of the winter. For drip irrigation, irrigate every 1 to 7 days.

33 Leaching and Soil treatments Leaching is used to counter the effects of salty water. Leach water for 12 to 24 hrs. continuously, once or twice a year. Soil treatments gypsum, liquid sulfur will make the process more effective 33

34 5. Can I over-water my tree? Yes, if the tree is planted too deeply Otherwise, it is possible in heavy soils, but virtually impossible on sandy or gravelly soils. Unless there is a caliche layer Some will over-water in the winter Symptoms are leaf yellowing and defoliation

35 6. How do I fertilize my tree? When fertilizing citrus, they can t read, but you can Citrus do not care what type of fertilizer they get. They just care that they get enough of it. That s where you come in. 35

36 The essential element for citrus Nitrogen is the most important. Don t over or under fertilize Over fertilization leads to dark green leaves, thick peel, large, puffy fruit and granulation. Under fertilization leads to yellow leaves, leaf loss, small fruit. 36

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38 Nitrogen deficiency 38

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40 Nitrogen Deficiency Symptoms General yellowing of leaves Occurs on older leaves first, then on the younger ones. Leaves lifespan is shortened. Deficiency not to be confused with Winter Yellows, which occurs in January and February because the soil is cool and roots cannot effectively take up nutrients, (chiefly N, Fe and Mn.) 40

41 How Do I Fertilize My Tree with N? N fertilization depends on tree age Year 1: lbs. N /tree Year 2: lbs. N/tree Year 3: lbs. N/tree Year 4: lbs. N/tree Year 5 and older lbs. N/tree Fertilize a little more on sandy soils. Fertilize grapefruits a little less (1.0 to 1.25 lbs. max.) Fertilize lemons a little more Be sure you know your tree age. 41

42 First apply fertilizers by weight using a scale, and then by volume using a container Follow the directions! 42

43 Fertilizer application timing for oranges, grapefruit and tangerines in Arizona (May differ from the bag directions) For oranges grapefruit and tangerines, apply all the fertilizer before July 1, in three to six equal applications. February 1 st, April 1 st, June 1 st (3 applications) February 1 st, March 15 th, May 1 st, June 15 th (4 applications) Monthly, from February 1 st through July 1 st (6 applications) Timing is especially critical if your fruit becomes dry 43

44 Fertilizer application timing for lemons and limes in Arizona For lemons and limes, apply fertilizer in 3 to 6 equal applications, from February 1 until October 31. Apply 2 /3 to ¾ in spring and ¼ to 1 /3 in fall. February 1 st, April 1 st and October 1 st (3 applications) February 1 st, March 15 th, May 1 st, and October 15 th (4 applications) Monthly, from February 1 st through May 1 st, and September 1 st and October 1 st (6 applications) 44

45 Fertilizer choices some are better than others. Granular and slowrelease fertilizers are best unless one will be away for an extended period of time. 45

46 P fertilization P found in most compete citrus foods. Or, apply ammonium phosphate ( , or ), triple superphosphate (0-45-0) or several organic sources. Apply P only once annually (March, or October), unless you are applying P as part of a complete fertilizer. Apply about 0.1 lb. P per tree per year of age, not to exceed 0.5 lbs.

47 Micronutrients Iron and Zinc are most often necessary, Mn on occasion. Iron sulfate is not effective when soil ph is between 7.4 and 8.5. Ironite? Chelates are the best carriers for micronutrient application.

48 Iron and Zinc Deficiency Symptoms Interveinal chlorosis Occurs on younger leaves Zinc deficient leaves are generally small, whereas iron deficient leaves are not. Both deficiencies can occur in the same leaf. Do not confuse with N deficiency

49 Fe deficiency

50 Fe Zn Fe and Zn deficiency Fe deficient leaves show fine venation. Zn deficient leaves are smaller.

51 7. Why are the leaves yellow? Overwatering Winter Yellows (OK) Under-fertilization Phytophthora Root Rot Sunburn

52 8. Why are the leaves curling? Underwatering Citrus Thrips (Note the difference) Drought Stressed Citrus Thrips

53 9. Why has the tree defoliated? Underwatering Overwatering Severe underfertilization Severe overfertilization (leaf burn) Transplant shock Hurricane!

54 10. How do I prune the tree? Citrus trees do not need to be shaped annually. Pruning is needed in the following cases: To remove suckers (watersprouts) To remove undesirable or dead wood To remove crossing or rubbing branches To allow in light if production is low.

55 Pruning Citrus When removing large limbs that will expose previously shaded parts of the tree to the sun, protect those that remain from sunburn. Heavy pruning is best done in the late winter. Light pruning can be done at any time. Pruning may reduce the crop. Trunk and limbs should be painted or protected if exposed to the sun.

56 Suckers take them out

57 Pruning Citrus Do not skirt the trees.

58 11. Why are the limbs dying? Too little light in the tree center Disease Coniophora, Antrodia or Nodulisporium (Limb dieback with wood staining) typically found on lemon Hendersonula (Limb dieback with black mold under the bark) may be found on all citrus Prune it out!

59 Branch Rots in Citrus

60 12. Why is there no yield? Tree is too young - juvenility Poor tree quality tree propagated from juvenile tree Genetics Alternate bearing in Minneola Under-watering, particularly in times of high temperatures when the tree has flowers or fruitlets leads to flower or fruit drop Frost damage (28F for more than 4 to 6 hours) Excessive pruning

61 13. Why is my fruit small? Genetics Some fruit are naturally small Heavy crop load Mechanical thin Low nitrogen status

62 14. Why is my fruit splitting? Genetics Some fruit have naturally thin peels Non-uniform watering Sunburn Low nitrogen status

63 15. Why is my fruit Environment sunburned? Spray tree with water-based white paint Pick from north or east side of tree

64 16. Why is my fruit dry? Environment, soil type Excessive Nitrogen Add potassium or organic matter Too vigorous rootstock Not due to underwatering do not reduce watering in response to this. Pick the small fruit and pick it sooner.

65 17. Why is my grapefruit peel so thick, and the fruit is misshaped? Environment Excessive nitrogen

66 18. Why is my fruit so green? Fruit not mature enough Check for flavor anyway Fruit subject to high temperatures in the spring Excessive nitrogen

67 19. Why is my tangerine or orange fruit black? Alternaria

68 20. What are those bugs on my fruit and leaves? Citrus Thrips

69 Citrus Miner Damage Citrus Peel Miner Citrus Leaf Miner

70 Wooly Whitefly

71 Orange Dogworm

72 California Red Scale

73 Mites

74 Aphids

75 21. How can I protect the tree from the cold?

76 Tolerance to Cold Varies More than four to six hours of cold below 28F will cause damage. Early or late season cold will cause more damage than cold in mid-winter. Trees on vigorous rootstocks are more likely to be damaged (e.g.. Volkameriana, macrophylla or rough lemon). 76

77 Cold Protection for Citrus Plant in warm area. Southern exposure Cold air drainage Maintain weed free area around tree Irrigate the soil 77

78 Cold Protection for Citrus Provide and/or maintain heat Provide heat with incandescent lights Cover the tree Protect the trunk 78

79 22. When should I harvest and eat the fruit? When it tastes good!

80 Thank you!