Welcome to The Society s Alsace Varietal Variety tasting.

Transcription

1 Welcome to The Society s Alsace Varietal Variety tasting. Alsace is home to some of the most beautiful scenery and some of the greatest white wines in the world. The diversity of terroir naturally leads to a wealth of wine styles. From bone-dry, flinty riesling, spicy gewurztraminer and floral muscat to rich, unctuous pinot gris, there is something here to suit every taste and every occasion. The quality of the region s pinot noir is also worthy of mention, providing as it does a charming alternative to Burgundy. As is often the case in France, it pays to follow the producer rather than just the style or sub-region, and so it is with great pleasure that we welcome representatives from some of the top houses in Alsace. = white wine = red wine White/fortified wines from bone dry [1] to lusciously sweet [9] A Word on the 2014 Vintage by Joanna Locke MW Buyer for Alsace An exceptional year for riesling perhaps the greatest some of us have seen 2014 will be a memorable vintage for everyone in Alsace. If the results are sometimes spectacular (and there are more fine wines yet to be released, some of them still fermenting when we visited in February) this was sometimes only thanks to vigilance and strict selection in the vineyard and cellar. Alsace perhaps benefited more than any other region in France in 2014 from its green credentials. Many of the producers featured in tonight s tasting work organically or biodynamically, which necessitates an intimate knowledge of terroir, a watchful eye on the vineyards, and especially important in 2014, hand-harvesting. The growing season started early but was slowed by cooler weather in the summer, especially in August. Warmer weather came towards the end of the month and in early September, but it was damp too. The suzukii fruit fly, which was prolific across Europe in 2014, caused a great deal of damage, especially to the coloured grapes and in lower-lying or less well-ventilated vineyards. Many grapes had to be discarded, dramatically reducing the size of the crop in some cases, thus continuing the run of short vintages in Alsace. However severe in some cases, its effects were localised, and we found delicious wines across the grape spectrum is in the classic mould, often with high acidity which will give the wines long cellaring potential, especially the rieslings, where we were spoilt for choice. We focused for this selection on wines that may be broached now, but some wines will benefit from another year or two in bottle and our notes are written accordingly. Marcel Orford-Williams Society buyer Marcel Orford-Williams first visited Alsace in 1989 and has been a passionate ambassador for Alsace wines ever since. His range has been the envy of the trade, winning numerous awards over many years. Now he is passing the baton and the benefit of his unparalleled knowledge to Joanna Locke MW who takes on the buying role for Alsace this year. The selection of 2014s below was the result of a joint buying trip in February. A Tribute to those we have lost Over the last year Alsace has lost some of its most influential characters and dynamic personalities: Léon Beyer, Jean Meyer, and most recently Etienne Hugel. Their contribution to the world of wine has been immeasurable, their support for The Wine Society unfailing, and they are greatly missed. Family was deeply important to them all and we are delighted to maintain close ties with each.

2 Maison Léon Beyer The picturesque town of Eguisheim has been at the heart of wine production in Alsace for over a thousand years, and for over 400 of those years the Beyer family has been making wine there. Maison Léon Beyer was founded in 1867 and is one of the Grandes Maisons d Alsace, part négociant but also important land owner. For many years the driving force behind this house was the late Léon Beyer. Without question he was one of those figures who helped raise the quality of Alsace wines, championing his cause through the world s greatest restaurants. In charge today are his son Marc and grandson Yann, both qualified oenologists. The Beyer style is highly individual and readily recognisable the grapes are picked fully ripe, and fermented at high temperatures often in large oak foudres. Beyer s epicurean passions have helped mould the style of their wines so that they are perfect with food. 1. [1] Sylvaner, Léon Beyer 2014 Dry, food-friendly white with a hint of peppery spice and a twist of honey and apple flavours. Satisfying and refreshing. Drink this year. 12% ref AL bottle 95 dozen 2. [1] Riesling Les Ecaillers, Léon Beyer 2014 Superb dry classically styled riesling from Marc Beyer made with grapes from the grand cru Pfersigberg vineyard in Eguisheim. Still young and tight but the flavour goes on and on, promising a long future. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 270 dozen 3. [8] Gewurztraminer Séléction de Grains Nobles, Léon Beyer 1998 Utterly magical nectar from an Alsace house better known for its steely dry wines. There was a lot of noble rot in this vintage and the quality of the sweet wines was very good. This is very rich, sweet yet also very fresh and youthful still. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 828 dozen Séléction de Grains Nobles means that the grapes have been affected by noble rot, or botrytis cinerea, prior to being picked. Noble rot is the benevolent form of botrytis bunch rot in which the fungus attacks ripe, undamaged white wine grapes and, given the right weather (misty mornings followed by sunny, warm afternoons) concentrates the sugars which results in extremely sweet grapes. Whilst they look disgusting (like moist raisins covered in a sort of grey ash), the grapes have undergone an extremely complex transformation, and are capable of producing the world s finest, and longest-living, sweet wines. Domaine Boeckel The Boeckel family's roots have been firmly planted in the medieval Alsace village of Mittelbergheim for 400 years or so, and it was in 1853 that one Frédéric Boeckel established the family business that flourishes there to this day. The family s 24 hectares of vineyards are overseen today by brothers Jean-Daniel and Thomas Boeckel. They follow sustainable principles, and they acquire grapes from a further 20 hectares owned by other growers who follow the same quality-conscious philosophy. All the fruit is handharvested and then sorted on arrival at the winery to ensure that only the best grapes make it into the press.

3 4. [2] Sylvaner Grand Cru Zotzenberg, Boeckel 2014 The only grand cru sylvaner and one which is perfectly suited to this more northerly site in the village of Mittelbergheim. 50-year-old vines are picked relatively early to deliver the perfect balance between gentle spice, old-vine richness and a fine backbone of refreshing acidity. Now to % ref AL bottle 210 dozen 5. [2] Riesling Brandluft, Boeckel 2014 Brandluft is a lieu-dit (single vineyard) currently being considered for the likely new premier cru appellation. A standout wine on our visit earlier this year: very pure, with light floral aroma and a wonderful seam of acidity. Now to % ref AL bottle 138 dozen 6. [2] Riesling Grand Cru Wiebelsberg, Boeckel 2012 Wiebelsberg is an Alsace grand cru on sandstone soil, which produces wines of breadth and richness; this superb example has length and body too. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 204 dozen With its steely minerality, riesling is often described as the King of Grapes in Alsace. It is the most widely planted variety in Alsace with a total of some 3,382 hectares. Riesling from Alsace has the same combination of fine fruit and high acidity as is found in Germany, but Alsace riesling has typically been vinified dry and so tends to be fuller-bodied than its German counterpart. The last of all the varieties grown in the area to ripen, Alsace riesling is capable of sustained ripening even through spells of cooler autumnal weather and as a result makes exceptional late-harvest wines. Riesling is an excellent medium for communicating the variations of terroir, be it limestone, granite or marl soils, coupled with the altitude and expositions of the sites. Domaine Ginglinger The Ginglinger s family has been making wine for an incredible 13 generations (since 1610!), and the current generation Michel Gingliner and his wife Loreto took over in The estate is located five miles south of Colmar in the village of Eguisheim, home to some of the oldest vineyards in Alsace, with records of vines here since the Roman times. There are 13 hectares of vines in total, planted on east and south-east-facing slopes of marl-rich, granite soils over clay, in what is described as the sunniest corner of Alsace. The vineyards are between 220 and 340 metres above sea level, and are protected from the winds by the foothills of the Vosges mountains. A portion of the estate s vines are in two of the area s grand cru vineyards, Eichberg and Pfersigberg. 7. [2] Pinot Blanc, Domaine Ginglinger 2014 A refined, round and creamy pinot which comes from six or seven vineyard parcels owned by the Ginglinger family. Refreshing minerality on the palate. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 119 dozen The Vosges mountains play a vital role in defining the region s terroir; they not only provide protection from the prevailing westerly winds, but also cast a rain shadow over the area, resulting in below average rainfall and above average sunshine hours.

4 8. [2] Riesling Grand Cru Pfersigberg, Domaine Ginglinger 2013 Very fine, racy riesling from the top Pfersigberg vineyard. Ideally this needs a year or two longer in bottle, but its quality is clear to see already. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 204 dozen 9. [5] Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Eichberg, Domaine Ginglinger 2012 Great Eichberg wines always need time to come round. Typically fat and richly flavoured, this is a fine example in the late-harvest style. Try with a full-fat soft cheese such as Munster or Epoisse. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 216 dozen As deciduous plants and trees prepare for winter, they shed tender foliage, which would freeze and shut down their metabolic processes, entering a dormancy that will see the plant through the cold weather. Vines undergo just the same processes: stems turn woody, leaves a golden red and any fruit still attached to the vine becomes isolated from the nourishment of the vine. They dehydrate, not only concentrating sugars but also undergoing passerillage, the development of complex chemical compounds which significantly affect the eventual flavour of the wine. Domaine Hugel The Hugel family has made wine in Riquewihr since 1639 making it one of the longest established Alsace houses as well as one of the most famous. Hugel acts as a négociant, buying grapes from other respected growers as well as having their own extensive vineyard holdings of some 127 hectares, which include the grands crus Sporen and Schoenenbourg. The late Johnny Hugel was one of the most influential winemakers in Alsace, not only championing Alsace at home and abroad, but also helping to formulate important protection laws. It was he who obtained official seal of approval for late-harvest vendage tardive and sélection des grains nobles designations. Under the thoughtful management of Johnny's nephews, Marc and the sadly missed Etienne, who died suddenly and much too young in April 2016, the business remained in safe hands. Marc Hugel is the current winemaker, and in fine tradition the firm continues to make some of the very best examples of late-harvest wines (from riesling, gewurztraminer and muscat) available in Alsace today. 10. [2] The Society s Vin d Alsace Made for The Society by Hugel, this is a particularly good blend of several Alsace grape varieties. Clean, round, full-flavoured dry wine which would make an excellent house white. Drink this year and next. 12.5% ref AL bottle 95 dozen The Society s Vin d Alsace offers an excellent introduction to the wines of this most beautiful region of France. Rather than being made from a single grape variety, as is the case with most Alsace wines, this is a blend. The base is sylvaner, which gives the wine its structure, and added to it is riesling, gewurztraminer and pinot gris, with a touch of muscat. As with most of Hugel s wines, the style is dry, yet full-flavoured and fruity, making this an excellent everyday drinking white to be enjoyed either on its own or with food.

5 11. [3] The Society s Exhibition Alsace Gewurztraminer 2011 A touch richer and fuller than the outgoing 2010, this is a gloriously fruity gewurztraminer with touches of peach and lychee, finishing very long and dry. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 155 dozen 12. [3] Pinot Gris Grossi Laüe, Famille Hugel 2014 The grapes come from Hugel s own vineyards including grand cru Sporen (high concentration, low acidity) and the Rosenbourg (altitude and acidity) vineyards. The result is a powerful yet balanced wine with wonderful richness, silky texture, and spice notes with a refreshing mineral tang. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 354 dozen Alsace was the last of the major French wine-producing regions to become part of the Appellation Contrôlée system in Unusually for Europe and especially for France, quality Alsace wines display the grape variety on the label. Alsace wines which are designated grand cru also display the name of the vineyard on the label. Fifty individual sites have been granted the status of grand cru these are particular slopes which traditionally produce the finest wines. To achieve grand cru status the wine must be made from one of four noble varieties riesling, gewurztraminer, pinot gris or muscat with a maximum yield of 65 hectolitres per hectare, as opposed to the more general 80 hectolitres per hectare. The minimum natural potential alcohol must be 10% for wines made from riesling or muscat, and 12% for those made from pinot gris and gewurztraminer. The grape variety and vintage must be displayed on the label. Domaine Josmeyer The Josmeyer domaine dates back to 1854, and today covers 31 hectares, which are located between the towns of Turckheim and Wintzenheim near Colmar. Each generation has left its mark here. Hubert, who died in 2005, created the export market. His son Jean further raised quality levels. He more or less abandoned the négociant side of the business and then with the help of Christophe Ehrhart, managing director and head of viticulture, switched the whole estate to biodynamic farming. Today, Céline is in charge of the books and her sister Isabelle is in charge of the cellar, makes the wine, does the blending and also shadows Christophe in the vineyards. Both daughters are artistically gifted and helped their father design the look of the ranges. From the beginning, Josmeyer has been identified with the vineyards of Brand and Hengst, now among Alsace s top grand cru sites. The Hengst vineyard produces fine, full-flavoured riesling and gewurztraminer, while from the Brand vineyard also produces pinot gris which is invariably bone-dry and among the best in Alsace. A curiosity of the house is a cuvée of old-vine auxerrois from the Hengst vineyard. 13. [2] The Society s Exhibition Alsace Riesling 2014 The finesse displayed in this elegant riesling from the delightful Meyer sisters is no surprise, but there is good structure too. Dry and appetising, with long, lingering citrus flavour. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 150 dozen

6 14. [2] Gewurztraminer Folastries, Josmeyer 2013 A richly flavoured gewurztraminer made in a dry style with plenty of character, spice and a wonderfully long finish. It s the perfect wine to go with Asian food. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 216 dozen Gewürz is the German word for spice, and it aptly describes the wine with its pungent, aromatic, spicy nose reminiscent of lychees. The grape s skin has a slightly pink hue which imparts colour to the wine, and wines made from gewurztraminer tend to be low in acidity and high in alcohol. Gewurztraminer makes an excellent match with strong French cheeses and is often served with the pungent Munster, whilst sweeter styles of gewurztraminer can work well with white chocolate. 15. [2] Auxerrois H Josmeyer 2011 Powerful, full-bodied, fat and rich white that cries out for food. A mushroom risotto would do. The H in the name stands for the grand cru Hengst vineyard where the grapes for this wine are sourced. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 216 dozen The small village of Wintzenheim is flanked by the grand cru Hengst vineyard. This 53-hectare vineyard has mainly limestone soil with some sandstone and is therefore quite different from the dark granitic soils of the north, tending to produce rich, full-bodied wines. Kuentz-Bas This is a small family house founded in 1795 and situated south of Colmar. Until 1919 it was owned solely by the Kuentz family but the union came when Marie Kuentz married André Bas. It was one of the founding members of the Grandes Maisons d Alsace and enjoyed good ties with the UK. Today direction of the business is in the hands of Jean-Baptiste Adam who has ensured its survival as a small and independent house making high-quality wines from all Alsace grape varieties. Kuentz-Bas has 10ha under vine, all farmed biodynamically including holdings in grand cru vineyards, notably Eichberg and Pfersigberg. Grapes for the entry-level wines, which are well made, dry in style and very good value, tend to come from a small number of contract growers. The regular varietal bottlings are labelled under the Tradition range, which also delivers keen value for money. The Collection wines are a notch up and tend to come from estate vines. 16. [2] Muscat Collection, Kuentz-Bas 2014 Meadow-fresh Alsace muscat with pure floral aroma and a fresh, appetising palate. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 131 dozen Biodynamic viticulture emphasises the health and balance of the soil, crucially viewing the soil as an integral part of the symbiosis between planet, air and cosmos. It believes in the influence of the cosmos and constellations on different aspects of the plants growth so those farming biodynamically do so according to the positions of the moon and stars, the time of year and of day, thereby favouring the growth of leaves, roots, flowers or fruit. By following these rhythms of nature healthier plants are produced and it is believed that better wines will ultimately result.

7 17. [3] Pinot Gris Grand Cru Eichberg, Kuentz-Bas 2014 The dry climate of the Eichberg (hill of oaks) vineyard produces rich, complex, long-lived wines. Pinot gris is a speciality of Kuentz-Bas and this young wine will reward patience, its smoky, salty, mineral restraint gradually blossoming into a poised and rewarding bottle. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 252 dozen 18. [2] Riesling Grand Cru Pfersigberg, Kuentz-Bas 2014 The last vintage from a 68-year-old east-facing parcel on the south side of the grand cru Pfersigberg vineyard, since pulled up as around a third of the vines were missing. An impressive wine that s young and full-bodied, with a strong mineral backbone. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 252 dozen Pfersigberg is one of four grand crus which run in a line just to the south-west of Colmar Eichberg, Steingrubler and Hengst being the other three. Pfersigberg is the third-largest Alsace grand cru, covering 75ha immediately to the west of Eguisheim. One of the driest and warmest sites in the region, Pfersigberg s slopes are some of the most gentle in Alsace, rising from 220m at their eastern edge to 310m in the west and mostly face south-east. The soils are predominantly composed of limestone and marlstone with some clay. Domaine Mochel Based in the far north of Alsace, this family domaine dates back to 1669, and is now run by Frédéric Mochel with his son, Guillaume, who oversees the winemaking. The domaine has 10 hectares of vines, five of which are in the grand cru vineyard Altenberg de Bergbieten, which benefits from lime-rich marl soils (with some gypsum), and is protected on all sides by the foothills of the Vosges mountains. The Mochels best wines come from here, and many say they make the best wines this vineyard has to offer. Frédéric and Guillaume make exquisitely refined wines that have great purity of fruit and expression. Riesling is their flagship variety, although they produce fantastic muscat, pinot blanc and gewurztraminer. 19. [1] Pinot Blanc, Domaine Mochel 2014 We arrived at this family property close to Strasbourg only just in time to snap up the last of their delightful pinot blanc: creamy brioche nose, very pure, delicate and mineral but with lovely texture too. Traditionally labelled Klevner. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 131 dozen Klevner in Alsace is a synonym for pinot blanc. However, under the region s appellation rules it may be applied to white wine consisting of auxerrois, pinot blanc and pinot gris. 20. [1] Riesling Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergbieten Cuvée Henriette, Domaine Mochel 2014 A beauty of a wine from and the north of Alsace: floral and lime-scented, richness without fat, mineral but approachable. Best kept a while but oh so delicious now! Drink now to % ref AL bottle 252 dozen

8 Located at the very northern end of the grand cru belt in the Bas-Rhin sub-region of Alsace, Altenberg de Bergbieten covers nearly 30ha of gentle south-east-facing slopes immediately northeast of Bergbieten. This south-easterly aspect means that the vines are exposed to the ripening rays of morning sunshine throughout the growing season. 21. [2] Alsace Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergbieten, Domaine Mochel 2013 A lovely, floral style gewurztraminer that s fragrant with a certain delicacy a winner in this late vintage. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 240 dozen Domaine Trimbach The house of Trimbach in Ribeauvillé, north-west of Colmar, dates back to It was only in the late 19th century, however, that the firm began to gain recognition and expand under the guidance of Frédéric-Emile Trimbach. It was he who first exhibited the wines on an international stage, and it was from here that the family name started to grow in stature. Along with their own vines scattered around three villages, the Trimbachs also buy in grapes from other growers around Ribeauvillé. They own sites in several grand cru vineyards but, for the most part, have shunned the use of grand cru on their labels as they, along with other growers, feel that the designation is not necessarily synonymous with quality. Trimbach has remained a family-owned operation over the centuries with the 12th generation cousins Jean and Pierre presently in charge. Jean looks after the commercial side of the business, regularly attending Wine Society tastings and events on his travels. He has great knowledge of the wines and is a fitting ambassador for them. Pierre is the chief vigneron and winemaker, overseeing all stages of production from the vineyards through to selection and bottling 22. Pinot Noir Réserve Cuve 7, Trimbach 2014 Named after the large oak vat in which it was first produced, this réserve wine comes from high performing pinot noir vines, largely in the Rotenberg vineyard in Ribeauvillé. Classically styled, with silky texture, bright, fresh fruit and fine length on the palate. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 198 dozen Pinot noir is the only red variety permitted in Alsace and it struggles to achieve a particularly deep colour in this northerly climate. In the past, Alsace pinot noir was always light and fresh with flavours of raspberry and cherry fruit. Recently the trend has been to age in oak barrels, giving a more structured and complex wine. 23. [1] Riesling Réserve, Trimbach 2014 Masters of riesling, Trimbach have recently extended their vineyard holdings and now have more older-vine Domaine fruit to play with for this Réserve selection. Still young and restrained on the nose, vigorous, fine, long and mineral on the palate. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 174 dozen

9 24. [2] Riesling Séléction de Vieilles Vignes, Trimbach 2012 This was made from a selection of old vines from the Trimbach estate with some grands crus and others from good slopes in and around Ribeauvillé. Dry and stylish with great sense of minerality. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 192 dozen Domaine Weinbach The Faller family has been in residence at Domaine Weinbach since the end of the 19th century. At the heart of the Weinbach domaine is the historic Clos des Capucins, a 5-hectare walled vineyard on the site of a 9th century monastery. Clos des Capucins is also a registered trade mark and the name appears on all their labels, even when the wines come from the family s more prestigious holdings in the grands crus of Schlossberg, Mambourg and Furstentum. Certified biodynamic, Faller wines are heady, exuberant and full-bodied yet also racy, whistle-clean and always achingly beautiful and refined. Traditionally the style has often veered towards the sweet but today Domaine Weinbach s rieslings tend more to dryness. All grape varieties are grown on the estate and the number of cuvées made here is legendary, the best often named after family members. 25. [1] Muscat, Domaine Weinbach 2014 A gorgeous muscat offering all the hedonistic pleasure of this truly grapy grape. It s dry but seductive in texture, with enticing length on the palate. A bottle that is likely to disappear all too quickly! Drink now to % ref AL bottle 264 dozen Alsace muscat tends to be a blend of two muscat varieties: the ancient muscat blancs à petits grains and muscat ottonel. Dry and lightweight, muscat is renowned for its heady grapey and fresh-fruit flavours. Wines made from muscat make a perfect aperitif, but are also an excellent accompaniment to dishes such as asparagus with hollandaise sauce and Thai food. 26. [5] Gewurztraminer Altenbourg, Domaine Weinbach 2002 An exquisite late-harvest style that magically combines luscious fruit and racy acidity an impeccable wine that is at its absolute peak now. Drink this year. 13.5% ref AL bottle 474 dozen 27. [3] Pinot Gris Cuvée Sainte Catherine, Domaine Weinbach 2013 Full-flavoured, rich-tasting pinot gris with plenty of matter. Its ripe fruit is backed by a fine seam of fruity acidity, meaning that it is already lovely now, although this wine will develop nicely with age. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 348 dozen

10 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht This domaine came about in 1959 following the marriage of Léonard Humbrecht and Geneviève Zind. It has become one of, if not the very greatest estate in all of Alsace with wines that are much envied by others; copied but rarely matched. The family s 40 hectares of fine vineyards, run on biodynamic lines across five villages, provide a substantial resource from which to produce a whole array of fabulous, terroir-expressive wines. Following in his father Léonard s extraordinary footsteps, Olivier Humbrecht has assumed responsibility of the estate with gusto and has continued to build on his father s considerable achievements. As well as his triumphs in the family domaine, Olivier is the first Frenchman to gain the Master of Wine qualification. There are many reasons for the resounding success of this domaine, not least the Humbrechts unwavering commitment to their precious vineyards, some of which are on notoriously difficult steep sites. Many are unworkable by machine, so the Humbrechts use horses to plough the land. 28. [1] Gewurztraminer, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2014 A star of a vintage in which Olivier Humbrecht declassified most of his gewurz grands crus. Textbook rose and spice aromas, with a rich and textural but beautifully fresh palate. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 143 dozen 29. [2] Riesling Clos Häuserer, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2014 From a cooler vineyard situated just below grand cru Hengst, this is a wine with tremendous cellaring potential. We tend to buy this wine when it ferments dry but in 2014 there is a little residual sugar, retained intentionally to balance the marked acidity in this wine. Fine minerality here and great length. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 324 dozen 30. [1] Muscat Grand Cru Goldert, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2013 Grand and irresistible, and one of the best muscats we have tasted in a while. Full-flavoured, concentrated and remarkably long. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 252 dozen