The Society s A Tour of Alsace tasting.

Transcription

1 The Society s A Tour of Alsace tasting. Alsace is home to some of the most beautiful scenery and some of the greatest white wines in the world. The diversity of terroir naturally leads to a wealth of wine styles. From bone-dry, flinty riesling, spicy gewurztraminer and floral muscat to rich, unctuous pinot gris, there is something here to suit every taste and every occasion. The quality of the region s pinot noir is also worthy of mention, providing as it does a charming alternative to Burgundy. As is often the case in France, it pays to follow the producer rather than just the style or sub-region, and so it is with great pleasure that we welcome representatives from some of the top houses in Alsace. The Society s sweetness code: White wines from bone dry [1] to lusciously sweet [9] = white wine = red wine S = screwcap closure P = synthetic closure Maison Léon Beyer The picturesque town of Eguisheim has been at the heart of wine production in Alsace for over a thousand years, and for over 400 of those years the Beyer family has been making wine there. Maison Léon Beyer was founded in 1867 and is one of the Grandes Maisons d Alsace, part négociant but also important land owner. For many years the driving force behind this house was the late Léon Beyer. Without question he was one of those figures who helped raise the quality of Alsace wines, championing his cause through the world s greatest restaurants. In charge today are his son Marc and grandson Yann, both qualified oenologists. The Beyer style is highly individual and readily recognisable the grapes are picked fully ripe, and fermented dry at high temperatures often in large oak foudres. Beyer s epicurean passions have helped mold the style of their wines so that they are perfect with food. 1. [1] Sylvaner, Léon Beyer 2016 Bone-dry and whistle-clean Alsace sylvaner, with typical hints of almond and appley freshness on the palate. Delicious. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 114 dozen 2. [1] Riesling Les Ecaillers, Léon Beyer 2015 One of the classic dry rieslings of Alsace, made with grapes from the grand cru Pfersigberg vineyard in Eguisheim. A wine of power and richness but with a wonderful backbone of acidity and exquisite balance and length. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 324 dozen

2 With its steely minerality, riesling is often described as the King of Grapes in Alsace. It is the most widely planted variety in Alsace with a total of some 3,382 hectares. Riesling from Alsace has the same combination of fine fruit and high acidity as is found in Germany, but Alsace riesling has typically been vinified dry and so tends to be fullerbodied than its German counterpart. The last of all the varieties grown in the area to ripen, Alsace riesling is capable of sustained ripening even through spells of cooler autumnal weather and as a result makes exceptional late-harvest wines. Riesling is an excellent medium for communicating the variations of terroir, be it limestone, granite or marl soils, coupled with the altitude and expositions of the sites. 3. [2] Gewurztraminer, Léon Beyer 2015 Benchmark dry Alsace gewurztraminer made to drink with food. This is still young but its rose-petal fragrance opens in the glass and is punctuated by a sprinkling of spice. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 179 dozen Maison Joseph Cattin The Cattin family have a long history in the Alsace, dating back to 1720 when Swiss émigré Joseph Cattin arrived intending to make a living as a builder. He soon began to tend vines and make wine, and through the centuries his descendants have carried on doing just the same. Today Jacques Cattin Junior runs the business together with father Jacques Senior, continuing a tradition of son working with father that has characterised the history of this fine producer, building on their heritage and experience but never letting the grass grow beneath their feet. The family owns 60 hectares of vines around Voegtlinshoffen, Steinbach and Colmar, including holdings in the grand cru Hatschbourg vineyard (planted with riesling, muscat, pinot gris and gewurztraminer) and a large walled vineyard of more than 8.5 hectares. This latter site, the Clos Madelon, was created from scratch by the family in 2000 and planted only with pinot gris on land that was once a vineyard, but which was devastated during the fighting of the First World War. 4. [1] Riesling Pur de Roche, Joseph Cattin 2015 Finely hewn, classically dry riesling with fine mineral backbone. Made from a parcel of old vines close to this fine family estate s cellars at Voegtlinshoffen. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 240 dozen 5. [2] Edelzwicker Special Cuvée, Joseph Cattin 2016 Few use the term Edelzwicker, the traditional Alsace name for a blend of the region's 'noble' varieties, but this is a bright and modern example nevertheless! A fresh and fruity blend of pinot blanc, muscat, riesling, pinot gris and gewurztraminer, which is aromatic and rounded on the palate. Drink this year and next. 12% S ref AL bottle 102 dozen

3 Domaine Dirler-Cadé The Dirler-Cadé estate is located in the small village of Bergholtz, 3km north-east of the town of Guebwiller. The Dirler esate was founded in 1871 and Jean, who married Ludivine Cadé in 1998, is the fifth generation of wine growers to produce wine at this beautiful estate. From the year 2000 the plots belonging to the Cadé family joined the Dirler property to create Dirler-Cadé. The family now runs 18 hectares of vines, all of which are farmed using biodynamic principles. 6. Pinot Noir, Dirler-Cadé 2015 The added weight of the 2015 Alsace vintage has given this wine wonderful depth and roundness, with fresh black-cherry fruit, enhanced by a delightful violet perfume. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 264 dozen 7. [2] Sylvaner Vieilles Vignes, Dirler-Cadé 2015 An ageworthy sylvaner from older vines and low yields, just starting to open up. Spicy and rich with plenty of volume on the palate. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 174 dozen Domaine Paul Ginglinger The Ginglinger family has been making wine for an incredible 13 generations (since 1610!), and the current generation Michel Ginglinger and his wife Loreto took over in The estate is located five miles south of Colmar in the village of Eguisheim, home to some of the oldest vineyards in Alsace, with records of vines here since the Roman times. There are 13 hectares of vines in total, planted on east and south-east-facing slopes of marl-rich, granite soils over clay, in what is described as the sunniest corner of Alsace. The vineyards are between 220 and 340 metres above sea level, and are protected from the winds by the foothills of the Vosges mountains. A portion of the estate s vines are in two of the area s grand cru vineyards, Eichberg and Pfersigberg. 8. [1] Pinot Blanc, Domaine Ginglinger 2015 Refined and beautifully balanced Alsace pinot blanc from the Ginglinger family, whose base is in Eguisheim just south of Colmar. Refreshing and moreish, with mineral freshness on the palate. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 131 dozen 9. [1] Riesling Grand Cru Pfersigberg, Domaine Ginglinger 2015 From old vines in the lieu-dit Ortel, to the north of this grand cru, a sunnier site which brings ripe stone fruit, power and richness but with a refreshing saline minerality. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 222 dozen

4 10. [3] Pinot Gris Les Prélats, Domaine Ginglinger 2015 A beautifully poised Alsace white, with gentle, come-hither bready aromas, silky texture and fine citrusy acidity on the long palate. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 155 dozen Maison Hugel The Hugel family has made wine in Riquewihr since 1639 making it one of the longest established Alsace houses as well as one of the most famous. Hugel acts as a négociant, buying grapes from other respected growers as well as having their own extensive vineyard holdings of some 127 hectares, which include the grands crus Sporen and Schoenenbourg. The late Johnny Hugel was one of the most influential winemakers in Alsace, not only championing Alsace at home and abroad, but also helping to formulate important protection laws. It was he who obtained official seal of approval for late-harvest vendange tardive and sélection de grains nobles designations. Under the thoughtful management of Johnny's nephews, Marc and the sadly missed Etienne, who died suddenly and much too young in April 2016, and now the next generation, the business remains in safe hands. Marc Hugel is the current winemaker, and in fine tradition the firm continues to make some of the very best examples of late-harvest wines (from riesling, gewurztraminer and muscat) available in Alsace today. 11. [2] The Society s Vin d Alsace 2016 A refreshing and gastronomically versatile blend of Alsace's noble grape varieties. Gently aromatic and easy to drink, this is made, as usual and to the same exacting standards as one would expect, by the Hugel family. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 114 dozen 12. [7] Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive, Hugel 2007 Rich, luscious late-harvest Alsace gewurz from a top vintage. This is where the Hugels come into their own and take full advantage of their plot of vines at the heart of the grand cru Sporen. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 456 dozen Very low stock 13. [9] Gewurztraminer Sélection de Grains Nobles, Hugel 2007 Perhaps the ultimate expression of gewurztraminer. This is very sweet and luscious yet also incredibly refined, made from individually picked berries and in very limited quantities. A painstaking process but the results are breathtaking. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 1320 dozen Very low stock

5 Sélection de Grains Nobles means that the grapes have been affected by noble rot, or botrytis cinerea, prior to being picked. Noble rot is the benevolent form of botrytis bunch rot in which the fungus attacks ripe, undamaged white wine grapes and, given the right weather (misty mornings followed by sunny, warm afternoons) concentrates the sugars which results in extremely sweet grapes. Whilst they look disgusting (like moist raisins covered in a sort of grey ash), the grapes have undergone an extremely complex transformation, and are capable of producing the world s finest, and longest-living, sweet wines. Domaine Josmeyer The Josmeyer domaine dates back to 1854, and today covers 31 hectares, which are located between the towns of Turckheim and Wintzenheim near Colmar. Each generation has left its mark here. Hubert, who died in 2005, created the export market. His son Jean further raised quality levels. He more or less abandoned the négociant side of the business and then with the help of Christophe Ehrhart, managing director and head of viticulture, switched the whole estate to biodynamic farming. Today, Céline is in charge of the books and her sister Isabelle is in charge of the cellar. Both daughters are artistically gifted and helped their father design the look of the ranges. From the beginning, Josmeyer has been identified with the vineyards of Brand and Hengst, now among Alsace s top grand cru sites. The Hengst vineyard produces fine, full-flavoured riesling and gewurztraminer, while the Brand vineyard also produces pinot gris which is invariably bone-dry and among the best in Alsace. A curiosity of the house is a cuvée of old-vine auxerrois from the Hengst vineyard. 14. [2] Pinot Auxerrois H Vieilles Vignes, Josmeyer 2015 Exceptional Alsace wine from the only auxerrois vines in the heart of the grand cru Hengst vineyard (acknowledged here by the H in the name). Rich with a creamy texture and aromas of orchard fruits, this has just a hint of smokiness which adds complexity. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 282 dozen 15. [1] Riesling Le Kottabe, Josmeyer 2015 Classically honed, expressive dry Alsace riesling from the Josmeyer sisters, with some delicacy coupled with palate weight despite the modest alcohol. Just starting to open up, this is slatey, mineral and long on the palate. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 216 dozen 16. [2] Pinot Gris Le Fromenteau, Josmeyer 2015 Fromenteau is an old name for pinot gris, here portrayed in classic Alsace style: generous and fat with wonderful bread and brioche flavours, and a spicy rich palate. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 228 dozen

6 Domaine Frédéric Mochel Based in the far north of Alsace, this family domaine dates back to 1669, and is now run by Frédéric Mochel with his son, Guillaume, who oversees the winemaking. The domaine has 10 hectares of vines, five of which are in the grand cru vineyard Altenberg de Bergbieten, which benefits from lime-rich marl soils (with some gypsum), and is protected on all sides by the foothills of the Vosges mountains. The Mochels best wines come from here, and many say they make the best wines this vineyard has to offer. Frédéric and Guillaume make exquisitely refined wines that have great purity of fruit and expression. Riesling is their flagship variety, although they also produce fantastic muscat, pinot blanc and gewurztraminer. 17. [6] Cuvée Léo, Domaine Frédéric Mochel 2015 Alsace riesling produces exceptional dessert wines with a particular affinity for baked custards like crème brûlée or lemon tart. Mochel s delightful late-harvest riesling is marked out by its purity and finesse, with gentle sweetness balanced by a firm backbone of acidity. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 354 dozen 18. [2] Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergbieten, Domaine Mochel 2013 A lovely, floral style gewurz, fragrant with certain delicacy, this is a winner in this late vintage. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 240 dozen Alsace was the last of the major French wine-producing regions to become part of the Appellation Contrôlée system in Still unusually for Europe and especially for France, quality Alsace wines display the grape variety on the label. Alsace wines which are designated grand cru also display the name of the vineyard on the label. Fifty individual sites have been granted the status of grand cru these are particular slopes which traditionally produce the finest wines. To achieve grand cru status the wine must be made from one of four noble varieties riesling, gewurztraminer, pinot gris or muscat with a maximum yield of 65 hectolitres per hectare, as opposed to the more general 80 hectolitres per hectare. The minimum natural potential alcohol must be 10% for wines made from riesling or muscat, and 12% for those made from pinot gris and gewurztraminer. 19. [1] Riesling Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergbieten Cuvée Henriette, Domaine Mochel 2013 Bone dry, fabulously concentrated riesling of great purity and character. Guillaume Mochel is a young and dynamic grower making wine to the west of Strasbourg. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 252 dozen

7 Domaines Schlumberger Schlumberger is Alsace s largest estate with some 140 hectares under vine, half of them occupying grand cru sites. The history of Schlumberger is fascinating associated as it is with textiles and textile machinery. Wine was, however, a passion for Nicolas Schlumberger and it was he who started the domaine in The vineyards are, for the most part, on beautifully-laid steep terraces up to an altitude of 380m where horses are required to work the land instead of machinery. Nearly half the vineyard is farmed organically, of which 30 hectares are in addition farmed biodynamically. Séverine Schlumberger is in charge of sales and the force behind some of the extraordinary transformation that has taken place here for over a decade. The winemaker is the talented Alain Freyburger. One of the first things he did was to get rid of Schlumberger s venerable and all too often leaky casks and bring in gleaming stainless steel. The portfolio provides a variety of quality wines from all the Alsace grape varieties, though it is the gewurztraminers and rieslings that particularly stand out for their precision and perfume. 20. [1] Riesling Grand Cru Saering, Domaines Schlumberger 2015 Schlumberger own more top-class Alsace vineyards than anyone. The gentle slope of Saering produces a fine, delicate, fragrant riesling, which is usually the most fruitforward of this domaine s wines. A wine with great charm now yet plenty of potential for the cellar too (if you can resist it!). Drink now to % ref AL bottle 228 dozen 21. [4] Gewurztraminer Les Princes Abbés, Domaines Schlumberger 2015 Gorgeous Alsace gewurztraminer in a fine, ripe vintage, with rose-petal and spice aromas. Just off-dry, and with plenty of volume on the palate, this is a joy. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 174 dozen Gewürz is the German word for spice, and it aptly describes the wine with its pungent, aromatic, spicy nose reminiscent of lychees. The grape s skin has a slightly pink hue which imparts colour to the wine, and wines made from gewurztraminer tend to be low in acidity and higher in alcohol. Gewurztraminer makes an excellent match with strong French cheeses and is often served with the pungent Munster, whilst sweeter styles of gewurztraminer can work well with white chocolate. 22. Pinot Noir Les Princes Abbés, Domaines Schlumberger 2015 This is a delightful pinot noir from Alsace s largest estate. The bright aromas all red cherry and strawberry fruit continue on the smooth, refreshing palate. A lovely wine, ready to enjoy. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 210 dozen Maison Trimbach The house of Trimbach in Ribeauvillé, north-west of Colmar, dates back to It was only in the late 19th century, however, that the firm began to gain recognition and expand under the guidance of Frédéric-Emile Trimbach. It was he who first exhibited the wines on an international stage, and it was from here that the family name started to

8 grow in stature. Along with their own vines scattered around three villages, the Trimbachs also buy in grapes from other growers around Ribeauvillé. They own sites in several grand cru vineyards but, so far for the most part, have shunned the use of grand cru on their labels. Trimbach has remained a family-owned operation over the centuries with the 12th generation cousins Jean and Pierre presently in charge. Jean looks after the commercial side of the business, regularly attending Wine Society tastings and events on his travels. He has great knowledge of the wines and is a fitting ambassador for them. Pierre is the chief vigneron and winemaker, overseeing all stages of production from the vineyards through to selection and bottling. Now their children are also involved in this traditional family house. 23. [1] Riesling, Trimbach 2014 Benchmark dry Alsace riesling from the fine 2014 vintage which was so good for the grape. Precise, appetising, and with great length on the palate. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 162 dozen 24. [2] Riesling Sélection de Vieilles Vignes, Trimbach 2015 Impeccable old-vine riesling from the world-renowned Trimbach estate. This wine is made only in the best years boasts delicate aromas of white flowers which give way to a muscular and concentrated palate with a solid backbone of acidity. Exquisite. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 258 dozen 25. [2] Riesling M, Trimbach 2015 This Alsace riesling comes from the grand cru Mandelberg vineyard, but for legal reasons this is only alluded to on the label with the M come next vintage it will bear the vineyard s name proudly. In such a ripe year, this venerable vineyard has produced a wine of gentle power and astonishing length of flavour. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 282 dozen Cave de Turckheim The Turckheim co-operative was founded in 1955, and has been a leader in bettering the reputation of Alsace wines. It is now a substantial vineyard owner in the region, with 216 growers cultivating vines principally in Turckheim (a pretty village just northwest of Colmar), but also Wintzenheim, Niedermanschwihr and as far north as Riquewihr. For many people, gewurztraminer represents the quintessential taste of Alsace wine, and Cave de Turckheim grows this with passion and expertise, from its everyday variety, which is sold as an own-brand wine for many companies worldwide, to old-vine and grand cru bottlings, which offer some of the best quality the region has to offer. They also grow several other classic Alsace varieties such as riesling, sylvaner, muscat, and pinot in all three of its gris, noir and blanc forms.

9 26. [2] Pinot Blanc Terres de Granit, Cave de Turckheim 2015 With a little more palate weight than Turckheim s regular Alsace pinot blanc bottling, this is a moreish interpretation of the grape, with enough fat to complement a wide range of dishes, whilst remaining approachable enough to drink on its own. Drink this year and next. 13% P ref AL bottle 107 dozen 27. [2] Riesling Vieilles Vignes, Cave de Turckheim 2015 A very smart Alsace riesling with quality, character and complexity that belie its price tag. Delicious and fresh, but now just starting to develop some of the secondary aromas and flavours that come after a little time in bottle. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 119 dozen 28. [3] Gewurztraminer Sables & Galets, Cave de Turckheim 2015 A rich and expressive Alsace gewurztraminer from fruit grown in the ancient sand and pebble soils brought down from the Vosges mountains by glaciers. This displays benchmark gewurz aromas of rose and lychee with spice and body on the palate. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 155 dozen Domaine Weinbach The Faller family has been in residence at Domaine Weinbach since the end of the 19th century. At the heart of the Weinbach domaine is the historic Clos des Capucins, a 5-hectare walled vineyard on the site of a 9th century monastery. Clos des Capucins is also a registered trademark and the name appears on all their labels, even when the wines come from the family s more prestigious holdings in the grands crus of Schlossberg, Mambourg and Furstentum. Certified biodynamic, Faller wines are heady, exuberant and full-bodied yet also racy, whistle-clean and always achingly beautiful and refined. Traditionally the style often veered towards the sweet but today Domaine Weinbach s rieslings tend more to dryness. All grape varieties are grown on the estate and the number of cuvées made here is legendary, the best often named after family members. 29. [3] Gewurztraminer Altenbourg, Domaine Weinbach 2015 Perfectly balanced single-vineyard Alsace gewurztraminer, with lifted, floral aromas and lovely saline and mineral notes on the rich, long finish. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 420 dozen 30. [5] Gewurztraminer Altenbourg, Domaine Weinbach 2002 Exquisite late-harvest style that magically combines luscious fruit and racy acidity. This wine has comfortably passed our original estimated drinking window of , and is perfect to drink now. 13.5% ref AL bottle 600 dozen

10 31. Pinot Noir Réserve, Domaine Weinbach 2015 Produced in discreet quantities this is a refined pinot noir, very precise, with vivid freshness and fine length on the palate. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 300 dozen Domaine Zind-Humbrecht This domaine came about in 1959 following the marriage of Léonard Humbrecht and Geneviève Zind. It has become one of the very greatest estates in all of Alsace with wines that are much envied by others; copied but rarely matched. The family s 40 hectares of fine vineyards, run on biodynamic lines across five villages, provide a substantial resource from which to produce a whole array of fabulous, terroirexpressive wines. Following in his father Léonard s extraordinary footsteps, Olivier Humbrecht has assumed responsibility of the estate with gusto and has continued to build on his father s considerable achievements. As well as his triumphs in the family domaine, Olivier was the first Frenchman to gain the internationally recognised Master of Wine qualification. There are many reasons for the resounding success of this domaine, not least the Humbrechts unwavering commitment to their precious vineyards, some of which are on notoriously difficult steep sites. Many are unworkable by machine, so the Humbrechts use horses to plough the land and sheep to graze them. 32. [1] Muscat Grand Cru Goldert, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2015 An outstanding dry Alsace muscat from grand cru vines: intensely concentrated, perfectly poised and only just coming into its stride. A rare treat. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 312 dozen 33. [3] Pinot Gris Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Zind Humbrecht 2013 One of the best pinot gris we have tasted in its class. Opulent and rich yet only just offdry and not heavy. With age, it will go drier. Perfect with risotto. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 216 dozen 34. [5] Gewurztraminer Heimbourg, Domaine Zind Humbrecht 2012 From a small west-facing vineyard in Turkeim generally picked quite late yet producing wines with finesse and balanced acidity. Drink now to % ref AL bottle 288 dozen