The Best New Wines from Australia. Andrew Hardy. Barnadown Run

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1 R ound Up July / August 2004 Issue 115 The Best New Wines from Australia Andrew Hardy 2002 Andrew Hardy Shiraz Ox McLaren Vale: (Reportedly from old vines that have been in the Hardy family for more than 100 years and that produced a half ton an acre in 2002; aged in once-used French barriques.) Saturated ruby. Pungent, pure aromas of blackberry, lavender, violet and pepper; showed some eucalyptus with aeration. Superconcentrated, bright and very deep, with a layered texture and superb inner-palate energy. Thoroughly ripe but dry, with excellent structure and grip. Finishes very long and sweet, with tannins buried under peppery, floral berry fruit points Barnadown Run 2001 Barnadown Run Cabernet Sauvignon Heathcote: Deep red-ruby. Dark plum on the nose. Juicy, leanish flavors of currant, plum, licorice, spearmint and herbs, with a note of tarry oak. A rather elegantly styled, cool cabernet with brisk acidity and good inner-mouth aromatic character but only modest flesh and sweetness. Finishes firmly tannic and persistent. 87 points 2001 Barnadown Run Shiraz Heathcote: Ruby-red. Fruit-driven aromas of raspberry and redcurrant, along with a lightly leafy character. Juicy but distinctly lean, showing modest flesh and thrust. Slightly weedy. Comes across as riper than this producer's merlot but less intensely flavored than its cabernet. 85 points Bleasdale Winery 2003 Bleasdale Vineyards Verdelho Langhorne Creek: Very pale color. Lime and honeysuckle aromas. Brisk, refreshing and quite dry, with modest flesh and complexity. A juicy, citrussy alternative to tank-aged sauvignon Blanc. 85 points 2002 Bleasdale Vineyards Langhorne Crossing (Cabernet/ Shiraz) Langhorne Creek: Medium red. Chocolate, mint and charry oak on the nose. Sweet if somewhat vague flavors of red berries, eucalyptus and mint. Plump but with some green notes. Relies more on its acids than tannins for shape. Not bad. A "planks in tanks" wine: the oak influence comes from French oak inner staves suspended in tanks. 85 points 2002 Bleasdale Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Mulberry Tree Langhorne Creek: Ruby-red. Lively aromas of black raspberry, mulberry, chocolate and mint. Juicy, nicely delineated flavors of dark berries, chocolate and mint. Betrays a slight green edge but offers good intensity and a supple texture. Finishes with a firm acid/tannin spine and good length. 88 points

2 2002 Bleasdale Vineyards Shiraz Bremerview Langhorne Creek: Bright ruby-red. Dark berries, plum, licorice and spicy oak on the nose. Juicy, penetrating flavors of currant, black cherry, licorice and herbs. Nicely concentrated and balanced for a Shiraz of this price. Finishes with sweet tannins, firm shape and late notes of mint and truffle. 89 points 2002 Bleasdale Vineyards Frank Potts Blend Langhorne Creek: blend of 78% cabernet sauvignon, 13% Malbec and 9% petit Verdot) Bright, saturated ruby. Aromas of cherry, plum, smoke, truffle and herbs. Sweet, lush and suave in texture, but the flavors are truffley to the point of asparagus. Finishes with rich, smooth tannins. 87 points 2000 Bleasdale Vineyards Shiraz Reserve Langhorne Creek: Good dark red. Penetrating aromas of plum, violet, baking spices and nutty oak. Sweet, intense and rather high-pitched, with flavors of raspberry, plum and spices. Nicely shapely, bright shiraz that shows rather suave American oak (all new and once-used), rather than the overbearing bourbon and tar flavors so often brought by these barrels in Australia Tannins are ripe and rather soft, as in all of these wines. According to the importer, Bleasdale is the second-oldest family-owned estate in Australia, after Yalumba. 89 points R. L. Buller NV R. L. Buller & Son Premium Fine Tawny (half bottle): a blend based on Carignan and Grenache) Deep tawny color. Orange peel, nuts and dates on the nose. Sweet, concentrated and quite easy to drink, with flavors of orange peel, dates, honey and maple syrup. A comparatively fresh style of tawny, and not obviously alcoholic. This boasts lovely fruit and considerable appeal. 89 points NV R. L. Buller & Son Rare Calliope Muscat (half bottle): Medium tawny color. Aromas of currant, orange peel and nuts. Supersweet and thick, with mellow flavors of caramel, butterscotch and walnut carrying through to the very long finish. Fat and lush. 89 points NV R. L. Buller & Son Premium Fine Muscat (half bottle): Deeper, green-tinged tawny color. Highly exotic nose combines Thai spices and dried herbs (Benedictine?). Juicy, fruity and fascinating. As dense, sweet and fat as this is, it's also quite penetrating and brisk, not to mention clean and pure. Offers an exhilarating sugar/acid balance and finishes with an intriguing suggestion of orange and clove tea. A standout in this price range. 91 points NV R. L. Buller & Son Calliope Rare Muscat Rutherglen (half bottle): from muscadelle vines planted in 1921) Deep green-tinged tawny color. Walnut, raisin, mocha and maple syrup on the nose. Supersweet (307 grams per liter of r.s.), tactile and thick, with a bracing flavor of orange peel buffering the wine's texture and preventing it from cloying. The quality of the material is best seen today in the wine's superb nutty persistence on the palate. 93 points NV R. L. Buller & Son Rare Calliope Muscat (half bottle): Full tawny-brown. Exotic orange peel and raisin on the nose. Superconcentrated, dense and chewy, but kept fresh by penetrating acidity. In fact, this offers rare lift in the mouth and on the back end for a wine in this style. Wonderfully tactile, solid sweet muscat with a slowly mounting, distinctly spicy finish that goes on and on. A tad less sweet than the Rare Tokay, at 292 g/l residual sugar. 95 points Cape Mentelle 2003 Cape Mentelle Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Margaret River: Vibrant aromas of fresh green bean, jalapeno pepper, lemon pith and winter mint; reminded me of Gruner Veltliner. Then dusty and pungent in the mouth, conveying an impression of strong extract. Flavors of fresh sage, spices and peppermint; herbal but not vegetal. Finishes dry and brisk, with a refreshingly bitter-edged note of grapefruit peel. 89 points 2002 Cape Mentelle Cabernet Merlot Margaret River: Red-ruby. Currant, chocolate and herbs on the dusty nose. Sweet, musky raspberry flavor complicated by chocolatey merlot and a hint of bell pepper. Fairly densely packed wine with good inner-mouth energy but a slightly herbal character throughout. 87 points 2002 Cape Mentelle Shiraz Margaret River: Bright ruby-red. Complex aromas of candied raspberry, roasted currant, mint and chocolate. Dense, lively and youthful, with juicy flavors of crushed dark berries, pepper and spices. Lovely sweetness leavened by fresh acidity. Finishes with sweet tannins and sneaky length. This is consistently a rather Northern Rhone-style shiraz, but this 2002 version reminded me more of Chateauneuf du Pape or Gigondas. 89 points

3 Craneford 2003 Craneford Wines Riesling Eden Valley: Pale, bright yellow. Aromas of tropical fruit salad with lovely limey lift; with aeration, this showed more estery notes of lime oil, mint and tarragon. Juicy, intensely flavored and cool, with notes of white peach, lime, spices and earth. Densely packed, chewy wine, with a very strong oily/smoky finish. 89(+?) points 2003 Craneford Wines Viognier Adelaide Hills: Pale color. Piercing aromas of lime oil, licorice, white flowers and tarragon. Juicy, dense and ripe, with impressive palate presence and strong suggestion of soil tones. Exotic hint of banana. Very dry, oily, minerally Viognier, with an assertive personality and sneaky persistence. From a crop level of just two tons per acre, and made without oak. 90 points 2001 Craneford Wines Quartet Red Barossa Valley: a blend of cabernet sauvignon, petit Verdot, cabernet franc and Shiraz Full ruby-red. Roasted currant, blackberry and blueberry along with leather and nutty oak on the liqueur-like nose; just a hint of veggies lurking. Sweet, lush and fat, with blueberry flavors complicated by leather and herbal nuances. Boasts sound acidity and finishes with ripe tannins that turned firmer with aeration. I would have marked this higher but for its slightly intrusive green character. 87 points 2002 Craneford Wines Shiraz Barossa Valley: Full medium ruby. Superripe aromas of currant, blackberry, smoke and truffle. Very sweet, ripe and gamey, just this side of cloying. Notes of nutmeg, smoke and tobacco leaf. At once creamysweet and lightly vegetal. Finishes with sweet, smooth tannins. 87 points Giaconda 2001 Giaconda Wines Pinot Noir Victoria: Medium red, with a pale rim. Briary, Burgundian aromas of smoked meat, underbrush, spices and birch beer, with red fruits in the background; I might have picked this as Morey-Saint-Denis. Then concentrated and pungent, with a firm spine of acidity giving shape and snap to the slightly saline flavors of pipe tobacco, underbrush, minerals and spices. Finishes long and firm. A fascinating Australian pinot noir, more about earth than fruit. 91 points Heggies 2003 Heggies Viognier Eden Valley: Varietally accurate if slightly perfumy aromas of peach, mint and licorice. Dense, thick and a bit aggressive, with the perfumed character giving the wine's fruit a slightly cloying quality. Firm acids keep the finish nicely dry, if a bit disjointed. 86 points Henschke 2003 Henschke Riesling Julius Eden Valley: Pale, green-tinged color. Captivating aromas of lime, smoke, snap pea, white pepper and minerals. Penetrating on the palate, combining mineral and petrol notes, soft citrus fruits and very firm acids. Finishes long, ripe and minerally, with flavors of citrus fruits and powdered stone. Built to age. 90 points 2000 Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon Cyril Henschke Eden Valley: contains some merlot and cabernet franc) Red-ruby. Fresh aromas of black- and redcurrant, loam, graphite and mocha. Juicy and penetrating, with nuanced flavors of strawberry, milk chocolate, cedar, minerals and sexy woodsmoke. Not a fleshy or particularly ripe wine but finishes with reasonably sweet tannins and very good length. 89 points 2002 Henschke Shiraz Grenache Viognier Henry's Seven Barossa: (a 60/35/5 blend) Bright ruby-red. Perfumed aromas of red fruits, pepper and flowers. Suave and sappy, with bright red berry, licorice and pepper flavors nicely firmed by strong acidity. As it opened in the glass, this blend showed a strong chocolate mint flavor. At once bright and silky. Finishes with firm, well-integrated tannins and good peppery cut. 89 points 1998 Henschke Shiraz Hill of Grace Eden Valley: Bright red-ruby. Explosive if idiosyncratic aromas of tobacco, pepper, black olive, mocha and hot stones. Pungent and penetrating, with compelling flavors of raspberry, tobacco, black olive, dried rose, mocha, herbs and spices, plus a strong underlying minerality (I was variously reminded of Lafite, Haut-Brion and Ausone!). Suave and perfumed in the mouth; wonderfully ripe but dry. Finishes with noble tannins and great palatestaining length and grip. This wine is not for everyone-and a good thing, too, since it's extremely limited-but it certainly flipped my switch. 96 points

4 Jim Barry 2003 Jim Barry Wines Riesling Lodge Hill Clare Valley: Fruit salad and toast on the rather creamy nose. Juicy and fruit-driven, with a leesy, Champagne-like quality to go with its flavors of citrus peel, toast, spice and earth. Finishes slightly tart, with good length. 86 points 2001 Jim Barry Wines Shiraz McCrae Wood Clare Valley: Bright medium ruby. Exotic American oak nose of bourbon, tar, coffee and chocolate mint dominate the superripe, porty nose. Then dense, sweet and penetrating on the palate, with flavors of blackberry, mocha and coffee liqueur nicely framed by harmonious acidity. An intriguing saline quality helps to buffer the oak. Finishes with exotic, somewhat roasted woodnotes of Mexican chocolate, cinnamon and clove. There's certainly no shortage of personality here. 89 points 2001 Jim Barry Wines Shiraz The Armagh Clare Valley: Saturated bright ruby. Pungent, perfumed nose dominated by chocolate, espresso and mint. Superripe and thick but distinctly porty, with some greenness lurking beneath its wave of fruit. Impressively sweet and liqueur-like, conveying an impression of low acidity. I'd locate this in the "too much ain't enough" school. Finishes very rich, thick and long, but needs more verve. This X-treme wine might not make for civilized company at the dinner table. 90? Points Margan Family Winery 2002 Margan Semillon Hunter Valley: Pale, green-tinged color. Reticent, soil-inflected nose hints at minerals and earth. Juicy and intense, with flavors of citrus skin, minerals, spices and earth. Finishes with good length and grip. 88 points 2002 Margan Verdelho Hunter Valley: Good pale color. Oily aromas of lemon, lime, smoke and nut skin. Densely packed and soil-driven, with flavors of lemon, lime oil, smoke and olive, plus a touch of creamy lanolin toward the back. A rich white wine with intriguing flavors and impressive length. Try this young with Indian curries, or put it in the cellar for seven or eight years. 89 points 2004 Margan Shiraz Saignee Hunter Valley: Full pink-red color. Muted aromas of raspberry and strawberry. Fat, ripe and concentrated; has the weight and texture of a red wine (but then this is more red than rose). The red fruit flavors show lovely sweetness and purity. Finishes with very good length. This is 14% alcohol, with about 1.5 grams of residual sugar. 88 points 2002 Margan Merlot Hunter Valley: Ruby-red. Cool aromas of plum, raspberry, chocolate and mint. Sweet red berry flavors complicated by smoke and fresh herbs. Not especially deep but suave and sweet, with very good intensity. Finishes quite dry, with smooth tannins. 88 points 2002 Margan Cabernet Sauvignon Hunter Valley: Bright, deep ruby-red. Very ripe aromas of chocolate mint and roasted oak. Dense, dry and backward, with a hint of bell pepper. A bit disjointed today next to the 2002 merlot, with some acidity to be absorbed. Finishes with palate-dusting tannins. 87(+?) points 2002 Margan Shiraz Hunter Valley: Bright ruby-red. Raspberry and spicy oak on the nose. Juicy, supple and spicy, with a distinctly minty character but little sign of pepper. A rather polite style of Shiraz but nicely concentrated. Finishes with sweet tannins. 88 points 2003 Margan Semillon Botrytis Hunter Valley: Pale gold. Pungent aromas of white peach, white raisin, honeysuckle and spices. Highly concentrated and supersweet, with bracing acids giving the powerful fruit shape and grip. Very nicely balanced botrytis wine with a suave, perfumed finish. 92 points

5 Nugan Family Winery 2002 Nugan Family Estate Chardonnay Alcira Coonawarra: Pale, green-tinged yellow. Complex aromas of lime, toasted grain and sexy oak. Big, rich and creamy, with intriguing notes of citrus fruits, smoke and truffle. Finishes lush, dry and long. Like a softer version of Chassagne-Montrachet. Excellent value. 89 points 2002 Nugan Family Estate Shiraz Alcira Coonawarra: Bright ruby-red. Black plum, currant, chocolate, mint and smoky oak on the nose. Supple, smooth and rich, with flavors of blackberry, mint and earth. Nicely balanced wine, with its 80% American oak element in the background. Offers a rather claret-like texture and very good length. 89 points 2002 Nugan Family Estate Duriff Manuka Grove Southeastern Australia: includes 15% Shiraz Bright ruby-red. Vibrant aromas of berries, black licorice and mint. Juicy, minty, dry and distinctly firm-edged. Offers modest complexity but good intensity and nicely restrained sweetness. Finishes with dusty tannins and some nutty American oak. 88 points Oliver Hill Winery 2003 Oliverhill Wines Shiraz Jimmy's Section McLaren Vale: Deep medium ruby. Superripe, porty nose shows a slightly oxidative roasted nut element. Sweet and nutty, with a distinctly port-like surmaturite Dense and thick, with some sexy oak tones in the mid-palate, but the wood element gives the finish a dry edge. Ultimately lacks real shape. 87 points Pewsey Vale 2003 Pewsey Vale Riesling Eden Valley: Pale color. Bracing aromas of lime, green apple, orange, white pepper and fresh tarragon. Juicy, leanish and vibrant, with slightly metallic flavors of lime, mint, flowers and minerals. Fruity but quite dry, with a tactile, dusty texture and lovely length. 89 points Redbank 2003 Redbank Wines Pinot Gris King Valley: Tangy floral and spicy aromas. Juicy, bright and dry, with musky flavors of soft citrus fruits, grapefruit, lime, ginger and scented talc. A light wine with modest texture but good cut. Finishes slightly candied yet also rather dry-edged. 86 points Reilly's Winery 2002 Reilly Grenache/Shiraz Old Bush Vine Clare Valley: mostly from 50-year-old Grenache vines) Deep red. Superripe, Grenache-dominated aromas of roasted currant, raspberry, tar and licorice. Spicy and bright, if not particularly complex. Offers excellent clarity of flavor thanks to its well-integrated acids. But comes across as a bit stunted, like a wine done entirely in tank (in fact, it was aged in barrels). 87 points 2001 Reilly Shiraz Stolen Block Clare Valley: (from 80-year-old vines) Bright ruby-red. Superripe aromas of black raspberry, pepper and tarry oak; slightly porty. Then juicy and extremely primary, with tart-edged flavors of crushed fruits (cranberry?). Comes across as rather ungiving and dominated by its structure, due to strong acidity more than to tannins. More European than Australian in texture and style. Will it become more generous with time in bottle? 88(+?)? Points Ross Estate 2002 Ross Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot North Ridge Barossa: Red-ruby. Currant, truffle, licorice and cedar on the nose. Juicy, layered and sweet, with flavors similar to the aromas. Good balancing acidity and fairly fine tannins give this wine good verve. Bottled in a Screwcap. 87 points 2002 Ross Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz North Ridge Barossa: Bright medium ruby. Superripe aromas of roasted mocha and chocolate. Sweet, lush and extremely ripe, with slightly aggressive, port-like flavors of blackberry and chocolate. Ultimately a bit one-dimensional and short. Finishes fairly tannic, with notes of mocha and maple syrup. Not my style. 85 points

6 2002 Ross Estate Lynedoch Barossa Valley: a blend of 40% cabernet sauvignon, 40% cabernet franc and 20% merlot) Medium ruby-red. Currant, licorice, tobacco, leather and dill on the nose. Sweet, lush and complex, with enticing flavors of currant, flowers and truffle. Offers plenty of personality and texture, and finishes with sweet tannins and very good spicy grip. A very successful Barossa blend. 89 points 2002 Ross Estate Grenache Old Vine Barossa Valley: Bright ruby-red. Exotic aromas of candied red berries and spicy oak. Sweet, pliant and succulent, with a distinctly creamy texture (the vines here are between 75 and 95 years old). Offers an enticing sugar/acid balance. Finishes ripe, spicy and persistent, with sweet tannins. 88 points 2002 Ross Estate Shiraz Estate Barossa Valley: Bright ruby. Black fruits and charred oak on the nose. Quite oaky in the mouth, with tart-edged flavors of dark berries, licorice and graphite. The American oak (15% new) is quite dominant today, drying the wine on the finish. 85 points 2002 Ross Estate Shiraz Reserve Barossa Valley: Bright, saturated ruby. Deep, brooding aromas of blackberry and licorice; little obvious sign of oak. Large-scaled, rich, pliant and very ripe, with generous flavors of sweet dark berries and chocolate. Far more layered and plush than this producer's regular 2002 Shiraz; also deeper and riper. Slow-building, sweetly oaky finish features suave tannins and very good persistence. 89 points Tait 2003 Tait Wines The Ball Buster Barossa Valley: 60% shiraz and 20% each cabernet sauvignon and merlot; tasted from tank just prior to bottling) Saturated ruby. Extremely primary aromas of blackberry, licorice, mint and spices. Juicy and intense but also supple and pliant, with good volume. Very youthful flavors of spicy dark berries and licorice are nicely firmed on the back end by lively acidity. Aged in all used French and American barrels points 2002 Tait Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Barossa Valley: Deep ruby-red. High-toned aromas of black- and redcurrant and licorice, with a light weedy quality. Then sweet, generous and pliant in the mouth, with a creamy middle nicely framed by bright acids. Cassis and licorice flavors are complemented but not overwhelmed by the wine's slight greenness on the aftertaste. A nicely concentrated wine with an enticing sugar/acid balance and firm tannins. 88 points 2002 Tait Wines Shiraz Barossa Valley: Medium bright ruby. Blackberry and licorice on the nose. Lush, pliant and highly concentrated; at once fat and fresh. Sweet, layered flavors of blackberry and black pepper. Shows none of the greenness displayed by the cabernet. An impressively dense Shiraz that finishes with sweet, broad tannins and lovely aromatic purity and length. 91 points Vasse Felix 2003 Vasse Felix Wines Chardonnay Adams Road Western Australia: Pale, bright yellow. Cool, perfumed aromas of pear, citrus peel and flowers. Dense but juicy and brisk, with intense flavors of grapefruit, citrus peel, toast and baking spices. Aromatic and persistent on the finish, with notes of tangerine and orange oil. 89 points 2001 Vasse Felix Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Western Australia: Good ruby-red. Aromas of currant, leather, game, earth and bell pepper, with hints of dill and curry. Fairly pliant in the mouth; has flavor authority but the flavors show a distinctly green edge, which has the effect of accentuating the wine's tannins. A so-so showing for this estate's cabernet, which I have consistently liked in the past. 86 points 2002 Vasse Felix Wines Shiraz Adams Road Margaret River: Full medium ruby. Cherry liqueur and chocolate truffle on the nose, along with a hint of eucalyptus. Aromatic and juicy on the palate, but a bit green, with edgy flavors of crushed berries, tobacco, spices and mint. Comes across as a bit unyielding and dry. 86 points 2001 Vasse Felix Wines Shiraz Margaret River: Bright medium ruby. Plum, smoke and game on the nose. Juicy and penetrating, with tight but intense redcurrant flavor, complicated by saline, mineral and earth notes. Not a fleshy style but comes across as much riper than the Adams Road Shiraz Very young, solidly structured Shiraz with a firm, subtly spicy back end. 89 points

7 Water Wheel Winery 2002 Water Wheel Vineyards Memsie Shiraz Cabernet Malbec Bendigo: a blend of Shiraz, Malbec and cabernet sauvignon; aged in used American barrels of 500 liters) Bright ruby-red. Blackberry, violet pastille, licorice and a whiff of game on the nose. Juicy, bright and tightly wound, with firm-edged flavors of dark berries and licorice. Quite fresh on the back end, with tannins coating the palate but avoiding dryness. Nicely structured, fruit-driven wine with early appeal. A very good value. 87 points 2002 Water Wheel Vineyards Shiraz Bendigo: nose. Nicely concentrated and sweet, if a bit youthfully penetrating due to its firm acid spine. Dark berry and black licorice flavors are juicy and seamless. The tannins are firm but ripe, and the finish is surprisingly long. A classy, very fresh Shiraz at an extremely reasonable price. 88(+?) points Whistler Wines 2002 Whistler Shiraz Barossa Valley: Full medium ruby. Aromas of crystallized raspberry, coffee, smoke and pepper. Dense, sweet and serious, with Rhone-like flavors of red berries, pepper and spices. Firm, well-integrated acids give this wine grip and freshness and extend its spicy finish. 90 points Winter Creek 2003 Winter Creek Grenache/Shiraz The Old Barossa Blend: Good bright medium ruby. Aromas of currant, pepper, leather, espresso, cedar and smoke. Juicy and pure, with lively blackberry, game, leather and licorice flavors framed by slightly edgy acidity. Shows a cooler character for a Barossa blend and finishes with fine tannins and very good length. Done entirely in French oak. 88(+?) points 2002 Winter Creek Shiraz Barossa Valley: Bright medium ruby. Penetrating aromas of blackberry, licorice, pepper, mint and baking spices. Dense, sweet and aromatic in the mouth, with spicy and peppery nuances and a firm acid backbone. Finishes sweet, firm, bright and very long. According to the U.S. importer, these wines are made by Rod Chapman, the ex-assistant winemaker for Penfolds. 90 points Yalumba 2003 Yalumba Winery Riesling Y Series South Australia: Reticent but pure nose reveals peach, lime, flowers, spices, stones and earth. Juicy, stony and very dry, with intense, sharply delineated flavors of pear, apple and quinine. Dense but racy Riesling, with a long, dusty, very firm finish. A steal at the price. 90 points 2003 Yalumba Winery Viognier Y Series South Australia: Aroma of peach schnapps. Moderately dense and juicy, with hints of peach, flowers and mint. Offers a slightly sweet impression and some finishing warmth, but finishes reasonably firm and persistent. 87 points 2002 Yalumba Winery Viognier The Virgilius Eden Valley: Very pale color. Exotic peach, licorice and honey on the nose, with good spicy lift. Rich, dense and very ripe, with flavors of fresh peach and spices. Not particularly complex but fat and harmonious. The wine's dusty minerality gives shape and grip to the lingering finish. An impressive mouthful of Viognier. 89 points 1999 Yalumba Winery Cabernet Sauvignon The Menzies Coonawarra: Saturated, bright ruby-red. Very primary aromas of black cherry, raw berries and licorice; slightly medicinal in a positive way. Concentrated, intense and penetrating; extremely youthful, especially considering the fact that it's already five years old. Possesses a tight core of sappy, spicy fruit complicated by a note of fresh herbs. Finishes with a powerful tannic spine but avoids hardness. This should evolve in bottle for many years. 91(+?) points 2002 Yalumba Winery Grenache Tricentenary Vines: Medium red. Superripe, porty aromas of coffee, chicory and cured meats. Thick, fat and sweet, with flavors of roasted red plum and tobacco. Just this side of too much. Finishes with ripe tannins and lingering plum and berry flavors. 88 points

8 2002 Yalumba Winery Bush Vine Grenache Barossa: Good deep red. Peppery red fruits on the nose; very Grenache but considerably fresher than the Tricentenary Vines bottling. Sappy, dense and fresh, with pure flavors of red berries and spices, complicated by earth, smoke and gamey nuances. Fat, sweet and smoky on the back end. Great value. 90 points 2002 Yalumba Winery Shiraz Y Series South Australia: Peppery aromas of raspberry, licorice and maple syrup. Then juicy and tightly wound, with red berry flavors currently kept under wraps by firm acidity. I'd like to have seen a bit more give and nuance, but the wine's slight finishing dryness tempers my optimism about this wine's ability to develop in a positive direction with more bottle aging. 87(+?)? Points 2001 Yalumba Winery Shiraz/Viognier Eden Valley: Medium-deep ruby-red color. Roasted black fruits, mocha, clove and tar on the nose. Then young and penetrating, with slightly green-edged flavors of black raspberry, cedar and tobacco leaf. Today the acids seem rather spiky. Finishes fresh and firm, with a late note of dill. 87(+?) points 1999 Yalumba Winery The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz Barossa: Bright ruby-red. High-toned aromas of currant, chocolate and mocha. Densely packed but a bit dry-edged, with a distinctly saline quality to its currant, licorice and mint flavors. Rather aggressive wine, finishing with a hint of greenness and some slightly drying tannins. 88? Points