Taberna de haro s Wine list

Transcription

1 Taberna de haro s Wine list Table of Contents Jerez sherry xeres My exquisite collection of 74 sherries, driest to sweetest... 2 Cava Eighteen elegant sparkling wines from Spain.7 White: Ripe and juicy White wines that exhibit a bit of fruitiness in the mouth, but finish dry...9 Todo albariño Fifteen wines made from that gorgeous & refreshing albariño grape...11 Dry and elegant White wines that are on the dry side dazzling Txakolina Racy, mineral, traditional wines from the Basque Country...16 rosé: Young fresh rosés, in varying shades of pink Red: Pleasant and palate nurturing Nice, approachable wines from various D.O. s...17 Glorious, friendly & unique Special, complex reds from various D.O. s Reds from Cool green Galicia A burgeoning, deliciously fresh genre...19 Ancha es castilla: Bierzo Stunning reds from Bierzo, a cool and noteworthy area in northern Castilla...21 Penedés, Costers del segre, Pla de Bages Full-bodied reds from Cataluña...22 Post-modern, cutting edge rioja Terroir driven reds with polish & minerality Classic Rioja. Medium-bodied, complex reds from Rioja made in the classic, elegant style...23 Lopez de Heredia A venerable winery, so peerless it deserves a page of its own!...25 Classic Rioja aging gracefully Old & graceful Gran Reservas from Rioja...27 The big new style of Rioja Big, fruit-forward reds made in the robust, modern style...28 Priorat: gratallops Robust, opulent reds from the village of Gratallops...29 Priorat:Torroja, el lloar, Poboleda, viella alta 4 villages to stun you...30 Priorat: porrera More mind-expanding reds, from the village of Porrera...31 New nobility Voluptuous, terroir-driven reds from D.O. s Montsant & Terra Alta...32 Larger than life: traditional ribera del duero Meaty, complex reds with generations of experience behind them Larger than life: modern ribera del duero Big, ripe reds that push the boundaries of tradition with their intensity Bravo, Toro The fragrant, lush, dark purple wines of Toro sweet wine Two sweet but balanced wines, an exclamation point for your dinner...36 By the glass Wine by the glass, beer, sherry, sangria, soft drinks, coffee and tea...37! 1!1

2 Jerez - Sherry - Xeres - sanlúcar de barrameda Manzanilla Aurora (Bodegas Juste, Sanlúcar de Barrameda). A more voluptuous style of manzanilla; curvy, yet chiseled. Almond, chamomile, meyer lemon, grapes, daisy & tang $34 (500 ml) Manzanilla La Gitana (Bodegas Hidalgo La Gitana, Sanlúcar de Barrameda). An exquisite manzanilla, with aromas of seaweed and preserved lemon. Named after a gypsy barkeep, the wine is elegant, shows light fruit notes, and is the tangiest and driest of delights. $34 (500 ml) MANZANILLA Papirusa (Emilio Lustau, Sanlúcar de Barrameda). Light but persistent aromas of salt box, bitter almond, & lees. Elegant sea-spray in the mouth. Iridescent like a fish scale! $32 (750 ml) Manzanilla Solear (Barbadillo, Sanlúcar de Barrameda). The requisite bracing tang has an aura of sultry smokiness about it. Light on the palate but impossibly deep and provocative. A classic with remarkable value. $26 (375 ml) manzanilla La Guita (Hijos de Rainera Pérez Marin, Sanlúcar de Barramenda). Rich aromas of sourdough bread, shot through with lemon, caper, and chamomile. Complex, toothsome! $26 (375 ml) manzanilla Orleans Borbón (Orleans Borbón Infantes, Sanlúcar de Barrameda). Bright & wild like a Himalayan salt nugget. Shiny & toothsome, with clamshell notes. Regal! $28 (375 ml) Manzanilla La cigarrera (Bodegas Cigarrera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda). Almost clear, but swimming with seashell offerings. Bristling, complex, and elegant refreshment. $27 (375ml) Manzanilla deliciosa (Bodegas Valdespino, Sanlúcar de Barrameda). Aromas of wet sand, fresh almond, & light flowers. Finely wrought, ethereal, with salty, citrusy vibrance. $25 (375 ml) Manzanilla deliciosa en rama (Bodegas Valdespino, Sanlúcar de Barrameda). A sultry lemon tang, a a flirtatious squirt of clam, a breathy mermaid kiss. Irresistible, quenching. $27 (375 ml) manzanilla Maruja (Juan Piñero, Sanlucar de Barrameda). From a single vineyard in the uber chalky Maina vineyard comes Maruja. Juan nurtures his flor for an astounding 8 years to create a manzanilla perfumed with cornichon, acorn, iron, & dried apple. Lean & long! $28 (375 ml) Mananilla pasada almacenista cuevas juarado (Emilio Lustau, Sanlúcar de Barrameda). A seven year-old manzanilla, selected and raised with love & precision. The yeasty funk is proud; the bristling acidity is undaunted by the slight oxidation. Intriguing, sultry. $46 (500 ml) Manzanilla 17 / 71 Alexander Jules (Selección Alexander Jules, Sanlúcar de Barrameda). From the solera of the venerable Argüeso comes this taut, broad sherry, chosen because it was outstanding, in a word. Splendid aromas of quince, apple skin, kelp, yucca.wonderful! $75 (750 ml) Manzanilla Pasada Pastrana (Bodegas Hidalgo, Sanlúcar de Barrameda). Deeply layered, full of shrouds and secrets. Soft yeasts, plump olives, sharp salt, tart lemon, lush chamomile, and great tension. The flor dies off naturally here, creating a sexy, golden manzanilla $54 (500 ml)! 2!2

3 3 en rama MANZANILLA (Emilio Lustau, Sanlúcar de Barrameda). Unfiltered. Mind bendingly lively, yet smooth and settled. Love the contradiction in the finest wines! Raw cashew and that Sanlucar sea smell Heady, rare and special. $43 (500 ml) MANZANILLA pasada La Cigarrera (Bodegas La Cigarrera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda). Stones slick with sea - or mermaid sweat. Remarkably pale. Smoke, tang, grace, & kelp. Old, wise, and brimming with stories. $56 (375 ml) Manzanilla Sacristia AB Primera Saca 2013 (Selección de Antonio Barbadillo Mateos, Sanlúcar de Barrameda). Dizzingly complex, with spent orange flowers, birch, and lemon zest. Toasted acorns like our hunter-gatherer forebears made. (Mine did anyway). Bright, attractive, expensive, worth it. $68 (375 ml) fino tio Pepe (Gonzalez Byass, Jerez de la Frontera). 5 years in solera, Tio Pepe is a classic. A briny nose, with spunky notes of petrol, fresh almond, and rich olive oil. Dry, robust, & fun. $35 (750 ml) fino tio Pepe en rama (Gonzalez Byass, Jerez de la Frontera). Yeast, dandelions, hickory stick, & shortbread. Post-rain hay, bread dough, and a lemon storm. Filtered only enough to remove fruit flies. $50 (750 ml) Fino Ynocente (Valdespino, Grupo Estevez, Jerez de la Frontera). Unique - the base wine is actually fermented in (very) old oak barrels, and the solera is 10 years. Lemon-pepper tang, with notes of bee pollen, apple, & braised celery. Incredibly complex - apple, almond, & olives. $35 (750 ml) fino hidlago (Emilio Hidalgo, Jerez de la Frontera). Big and vibrant aromas are followed by intense, truffled notes of dried apple and almond. Balanced, yet funky and intriguing. $27 (750 ml) FINO Puerto Fino (Emilio Lustau, El Puerto de Santa Maria). The signature petrol style of Lustau s finos is less pronounced here, in this closer-to-the-sea expression. Olive oil, almonds, & caper shine on this full-bodied aperitivo. A whiff of smoke and another of wet sand delight. $30 (750 ml) Fino Cesar Florido (César Florido, Chipiona). César boasts of vineyards just 40 meters from the sea! Aromas of salty rocks and fermenting apple skins. Spectacularly fresh, yet fossilly. Tightly acidic with blossoms of beach rose and oyster shell. Astoundingly good! $28 (375 ml) FINO ElCano (J.C. Colosia Gutierrez, Puerto de Santa Maria). Pale golden. Rich aromas of preserved lemon, olive, and oyster. Notes of yeast and brine, with a smoother texture than is common. Beautifully refreshing. $26 (375 ml) Fino El Maestro Sierra (El Maestro Sierra, Jerez de la Frontera). An intense fino experience for the experienced fino drinker. 5 years under flor, the wine is bold, nutty, broody, autolytic, & superb. Notes of jamón bone, olives, & quince. Unfiltered and hand racked. $28 (375 ml) Fino Alexander Jules 22 /85 (Selección Alexander Jules, Jerez de la Frontera). Fresh brazil nuts, ume plum, and salted lemon. Tantalizingly complex - brass, marcona, birch, acorn, saffron... Deep yet delicate in the mouth. Selected and cared for like an heir apparent. Majestic. $75 (750 ml)! 3!3

4 Fino La Bota en rama (Equipo Navazos, Jerez de la Frontera). Aged in the cellars of Valdespino, this selected and aged fino is wild and tangy, with the complexity of old Burgundy. A powerful labyrinth of layers in the far reaches of your nose and mind. $34 (375 ml) 3 en rama Fino de jerez (Emilio Lustau, Jerez de la Frontera). Unfiltered. Oyster and mignonette aromas. Bright, elegant and full in the mouth. Naked fino - what could be sexier? Minerals and thoughts of chablis decorate my mind. Exceptionally long finish. $43 (500 ml) 3 en rama fino de Puerto de santa maria (Emilio Lustau, El Puerto de Santa Maria). Unfiltered. This unfettered fino is all brine and brass in the nose, and then rich, fat olives in the mouth. Smooth yet nervy, with aromas of the sand inside a mussel shell. The real deal, right here in Brookline. $43 (500 ml) Fino La Bota 45 (Equipo Navazos, Jerez de la Frontera). Evolving gracefully into amontillado. Bristling ripe quince eases into a nutty, custardy finish. Sublime depth; exceptional character. $135 (750 ml) Fino La Bota 54 (Equipo Navazos, Jerez de la Frontera). Wild, so wild, with a whisper of coriander and another of green cactus. Nervy tension winds itself around an iodine and peanut core, with fennel fronds and a new penny note. Frighteningly alive, like a sea creature. $135 (750 ml) Fino Dos Palmas (Gonzalez Byass, Jerez de la Frontera). A meticulous selection of 8 yr old fino from 3 casks of the Tio Pepe solera with miraculously vigorous flor. Toasted macrona almond, exotic yeast, ghee, seaweed from a tako su bowl. (Out of stock until spring 2017) $78 (500 ml) Fino tres Palmas (Gonzalez Byass, Jerez de la Frontera) 10 yr old fino-amontillado, where only the most vigorous flor can live, is magical. Oxidative yet still bright gold, Tres Palmas is that nameless land between fino & amontillado. A nutty, smutty, seductive miracle from one cask. $140 (500 ml) fino cuatro Palmas (Gonzalez Byass, Jerez de la Frontera). Technically an amontillado, selected from ONE cask with flor in its very death throes, within a 51 yr old solera, Singing with citrus acidity, the wine is balanced, beautiful, salty, bitter. An impossible yet brilliant life-form! $175 (500 ml) amontillado La Garrocha (Bodegas Grant, El Puerto de Santa Maria). Compellingly aromatic with buttery and bitter notes. Layered, nutty, and completely dry. Burnt sugar and orange peel. Lean and refreshing, nice as an aperitivo or a digestivo. $29 (375 m l) amontillado Tio Diego (Valdespino, Grupo Estevez, Jerez de la Frontera). A lighter style of amontillado, and one that recalls its fino origins with grace. Hazelnuts, brioche, assam tea, and burnt orange peel. $40 (750 ml) Amontillado los Arcos (Bodegas Emilio Lustau, Jerez de la Frontera). A classic example of tangy yet serious amontillado. Raw walnut, lemon conserve, and notes of fine brandy. $34 (750 ml) amontillado ab (Gonzalez Byass, Jerez de la Frontera). A bright, riveting amontillado, redolent of yesterday s fino & Seville orange. The flavor of Brazil nuts, both the rich & the bitter, feel warm on the tongue, and a glossy texture rounds out this focused & masculine amontillado. $45 (750 ml)! 4!4

5 rare Amontillado Escuadrilla (Bodegas Emilio Lustau, Jerez de la Frontera). An amontillado richly burnished by its 15 years in cask. Beautiful chestnut, iodine, dried apricot, bitter toffee. $38 (750 ml) Amontillado aurora (Bodega Yuste, Sanlucar de Barrameda). I adore the sapid, fossilladen spirit of amontillados made from manzanillas! This one has a core of lightly toasted cashew wrapped in a smooth, buttery tunic, with rich hints of roasted apple and beeswax. $36 (500 ml) amontillado contrabandista (Valdespino, Grupo Estevez, Jerez de la Frontera). Sexy aromas of toasted almond, chocolate, and nutmeg. Silky in the mouth, with pecan, bitter orange, and a remote note of truffle. Burnt sugar and butter on the finish. A touch of PX for fun. $40 (750 ml) DRY AMONTILLADO el maestro sierra 12 Años (El Maestro Sierra, Jerez de la Frontera). Pale Amber. Enticing, tangy aromas Almond, both fresh and roasted. The finish is intense, almost brandy-like, and lasts beautifully on the palate. $46 (375 ml) Amontillado Alexander Jules 6 /26 (Selección Alexander Jules, Sanlúcar de Barrameda). I love the miracle of the amontillados whose manzanilla soul still shines, despite the years and the barrels! From the Argüeso cellar hails this profound, toasted cashew- and flan-scented sherry, with shiny notes of fish scale and beach dew. $75 (375 ml) amontillado Del Duque vors (Gonzalez Byass, Jerez de la Frontera). Flan, caramelized orange zest, and dates are sun-splashed with acidity. Off-dry and divine, supremely elegant after 30 years in solera, with notes of hazelnuts and lovely glycerine. $90 (375 ml) Amontillado La Cigarrera (Bodegas La Cigarrera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda). A sleek, feline amontillado, with manzanilla roots in tact. Full yet fine, with bitter edges & a silky center. Long, graceful, and pretty astounding. $114 (375 ml) amontillado almacenista jose Luis gonzalez obregón (Bodegas Emilio Lustau, nurtured in Santa Maria del Puerto). Cashew and kombu in the nose, with undulating layers of lemon, salt, lightly toasted hazelnut, a kiss of umami and a drop of bitter caramel. $115 (500 ml) amontillado 1830 VORS (El Maestro Sierra, Jerez de la Frontera). The aromas of smoke, brine, and golden raisin are powerful yet elegant. Incredibly complex, this old sherry is still lively with nervy citrus zest but profound with its layers of roasted nutmeats. The texture is both glossy & edgy. Sexy and sublime, with an incredibly long finish. From a 184 year old solera!! $140 (375 ml) PALO CORTADO Península (Emilio Lustau, Jerez de la Frontera). The color is dark amber, alive with reddish glints. Toffee aromas arise. This silky, intense sherry is redolent of tangerine and toasted pecan. A heady libation that finishes with vanilla and a hint of coffee. $36 (750 ml) palo cortado marques de rodil (Bodegas Luis Hidalgo, Jerez de la Frontera). Tart and nutty, this old and unusual palo cortado is dry, funky, lemony, and profound. The oxidative notes guard old stories, and a whiff of rye is tantalizing. $116 (750 ml) Palo Cortado Obispo Gascón (Bodegas Barbadillo, Snalucar de Barrameda). Made from manzanilla, with passion. Wild stony & yeasty notes are buried in the heart of the rich nuts and spicy wood. The finish is so very long and sensual, you will become utterly distracted. $82 (750 ml)! 5!5

6 Palo cortado viejo C.P. Valdespino (Bodegas Valdespino, Jerez de la Frontera). Powerful and broody, swarthy, sexy, and muscular. Hazelnuts, burnt orange, cocoa nibs. $67 (750 ml) palo cortado Wellington (Bodegas Hidalgo La Gitana, Sanlúcar de Barrameda). Bitter salty caramel with notes of cherry and Persian dried lime. Sanlucar Palo Cortado has a lighter style, and the ethereal, linear quality is utterly riveting! $167 (500 ml) palo cortado Apóstoles (Gonzalez Byass, Jerez de la Frontera). The aromas of espresso, caramel, fig, bacon, & milk chocolate are intoxicating, then the rich, slightly sweet nectar unfolds on the palate with ripples of lemon, butter, and brown sugar on toast. Hopelessly addictive. $90 (375 ml) Palo Cortado Peña del Aguila (César Florido, Chipiona). Vanilla bean, & brioche aromas. White cherry acidity balances the darker dried apricot and toasted pecan richness. Magically light, yet dramatic in nature. Bright & beautifully bitter. $114 (375 ml) Palo cortado muy viejo (El Maestro Sierra, Jerez de la Frontera) Sophisticated, deep, strong. The softness of plump figs is contrasted by the firmness of tea tannins. Completely dry, with bitter burnt sugar notes that delight the senses. Nurtured for 50 years in solera - long life, long finish, long on pleasure. $130 (375 ml) Palo cortado Vors capuchino (Bodegas Osborne, El Puerto de Santa Maria). Taking sublime to a whole new level, Osborne created this gem from a 1790 solera! Everlasting layers of roasted black walnut, coffee with cajeta, cocoa nibs, browned butter, and goddess blessings. $235 (750 ml) oloroso cesar florido cruz del mar (Bodegas Cesar Florido, Chipiona). A bitter and sexy expression of pecan pie - brown sugar, toasted pecans, and toasted butter. A sapid and sublime expression of oloroso that makes your mouth ache for more. Outstanding!! $34 (375 ml) OLOROSO la Garrocha (Bodegas Grant, El Puerto de Santa Maria). Glows with burnt sugar, coffee with cream, bitter almond, & orange peel. Full-bodied and dry, with a complex finish that whispers of old wood, & toasted walnuts. Lean and taut. $32 (375 ml) Oloroso Faraon (Bodegas Hidalgo La Gitana, Sanlúcar de Barrameda). Mysterious aromas of sake, mace, caramel apple and dried beach shells. Sanlucar oloroso - salty and light! $37 (500 ml) OLOROSO Almacenista j.g. Jarana Pata de gallina (Emilio Lustau, Jerez de la Frontera). Medium caramel colored. This buttery smooth sherry is redolent of fresh nutmeg and warm, toasted walnuts. Off-dry, with calamyrna fig notes and the blessing of time. Heavenly! $50 (500 ml) OLOROSO don gonzalo (Valdespino, Grupo Estevez, Jerez de la Frontera). Fragrant in a manly way, then dry and robust in the mouth. Roasted chestnuts, dark tea, bitter orange. Handsome! $67 (750 ml) OLOROSO Emperatriz Eugenia (Emilio Lustau, Jerez de la Frontera). 20 years old, this royal oloroso is dark & reduced, with a rich panoply of fragrances: toffee, black walnut, fig, tea. $75 (750 ml) Oloroso 1/14 Vors (El Maestro Sierra, Jerez de la Frontera) Reductive aromas, sleek as a mink, nutty and rich. While the younger Maestro Sierra wines are attractively lean, these older specimens are supple and feminine years old, indescribably smooth, and lightly spirited with glints of acidity. Spectacularly long finish. Only 14 botas in the solera - rare indeed!! $166 (375 ml)! 6!6

7 oloroso sibarita vors (Bodegas Osborne, El Puerto de Santa Maria). Like exquisite coffee ice cream, infused with plump raisins, toasted walnuts, and bitter caramel. Gorgeously round and arousingly smooth, Sibarita is meant for sibarites everywhere. Truly special! $235 (500 ml) Olororos 200 BC (Bodegas Osborne, El Puerto de Santa Maria). The requisite dark caramel is at its most alluring here, enshrouded as it is in a funky seaside mist. Burnt orange peel and varnish glow this precious wine, from a solera started in The intensity on the palate fills your entire being with its regal presence: bitter chocolate, black walnut, lemon peel, brisket. As it opens the caramel recedes and more ocean mystery emerges. One of the finest things I ve ever drunk! $350 (500 ml) Oloroso cream Morenita (Emilio Hidalgo, Jerez de la Frontera). Old Oloroso sherry blended with sweet Pedro Ximenez - a tantalizing tradition. Redolent of toasted walnuts and creme caramel - then silky sweet in the mouth, with notes of honey, date, and oak. $32 (750 ml) Oloroso dulce EAST INDIA SOLERA (Emilio Lustau, Jerez de la Frontera). Nuanced aromas of tea, apricot, & orange. Sweet, with toasted hazelnuts, caramel, & vanilla bean. Subtle acidity balances the richness. Long and elegant, this Pedro Ximénez-enriched oloroso is a wonderful way to stoke the appetite or end a meal sensually. $45 (750 ml) Oloroso dulce muy viejo matusalem (Gonzalez Byass, Jerez de la Frontera). A warm and thick glow emanates from this dark glass, oozing raisins, dates, cream, coffee, and decadence. Ripples of sweet pleasure - carob, candied almonds, and bourbon. $90 (375 ml) PEDRO XiMéNEZ san Emilio (Emilio Lustau, Jerez de la Frontera). Regal mahogany with expensive dates and molasses aromas. Seductive prune and fig flavors in the mouth. This is a sweet, unctuous, and addictive treasure with depth and character, but a certain grace. $45 (750 ml) pedro ximénez El Candado (Valdespino, Jerez de la Frontera). Dark and sweet, with dried fig, espresso, and burnt sugar ice cream. Dreamily delightful and richly decadence! $52 (750 ml) pedro ximénez el maestro sierra (El Maestro Sierra, Jerez de la Frontera). A lemonspiked fig cloud will own your senses for a while...caramel, dates, candied orange peel, and roasted cashew will finish you off. Superbly sweet, but still elegant. $40 (375 ml) Pedro ximénez noe (Gonzalez Byass, Jerez de la Frontera). Sexy and mysterious ancho chile and chipotle aromas with notes of espresso, vanilla bean, toasted pecans, cocoa nib, bourbon. $90 (375 ml) Moscatel emilin solera reserva (Emilio Lustau, Jerez de la Frontera). An orchard of citrus flowers dripping with honey in the nose, a cup of apricot-laced nectar in the mouth. The moscatel grape warbles with pleasure and beauty here, despite years in dark, old oak. $42 (375 ml) Moscatel Dorado (César Florido, Chipiona). A jumpy bouquet of lilies, lemons, and apricots. You ll feel like a bee, happy and engulfed in a thick, sunny nectar. Sweet, but completely balanced by the taut fruit acidity that dazzles its way through the rich juice. Pure and innocent. $29 (375 ml) tintilla de rota (Emilio Lustau, Jerez de la Frontera). Dark and sweet with a funky note of hoisin and another of black bean paste. Black olives, maple syrup, and dried red cherries. Made from the rare red wine in zone called tintilla de Rota. Great with chocolate or blue cheese. $100 (750 ml)! 7!7

8 Cava (SPARKLING WINES) Totus Tuus brut (Totus Tuus by CVA, D.O. Penedés, Maset, Barcelona). It means all yours in Latin, a whisper of romance befitting this pale silk evening gown of a sparkling wine. The fine foam pushes up lovely aromas of apricot, cherimoya, and brioche. Chardonnay, xarel-lo, macabeu, parellada, & pinot noir spend 18 months on the lees and not nearly enough time on my table... $36 Pere Mata Cupada no. 15 Brut Nature (Pere Mata, D.O. Cava, San Sadurni d Anoia ) Elegant autolysis and preserved lemon notes. Tight bubbles in the mouth cause bursts of minerals and citrus glints on the tongue. The classic earthy quality of cava is subtle here, but a light touch prevails. A bit of apricot and orange blossom on the finish. $36 Juve i Camps Reserva de la familia brut nature 2011 (Juve I Camps, D.O. Cava, Sant Sadurni d Anoia). It smells of pride and sophistication, one family s offering of seaside notes, preserved lemon, nisperos, and chamomile. A star-shower of acidity rains over a wine that is firm, linear, and lovely. The finish is very long, with fresh stone fruits, citrus pith, and a mellow nuttiness. The classic xarel-lo, macabeu, parrellada grapes, with a splash of chardonnay. $40 Gramona La Cuvee Gran Reserva 2011 (Bodegas Gramona, D.O. Penedés, San Sadurni d Anoia). This beautiful cava, made from xarel-lo, macabre and parrellada is rich with aromas of beeswax, fresh apricot, & a hint of cinnamon. Thirty months of its life were spent on lees, and that gorgeous, yeasty complexity is apparent in the nose and in the mouth. The wine sings on the tongue like an ethereal ginger mousse with suggestions of oyster liquor and celeriac. $40 Gramona Imperial Gran Reserva 2006 (Elaborador Gramona, D.O. Cava, San Sadurni d Anoia). The nose is gently floral and subtly yeasty with notes of almond and apricot. Layered and complex in the mouth, with ginger and fresh berries speaking louder than the lees. Toast and fancy marmalade comes to mind. It is a clean mysterious wine, and finishes like an ebbing tide of fine foam and sexy brininess. Like an El Bulli creation of oyster with a spun caramel shell. $60 III Lustros gran Reserva 2007 (Bodegas Gramona, D.O. Penedes, San Sadurni d Anoia). Split leaps of aromas, vibrant and broad. A huge and wonderful mouth-feel follows, with quince, apples, and yeast dancing in the foreground against a smokey, nutty, backdrop. Taut and purposeful like jazz hands, with ginger and sea-foam tulle. Their 100 year-old solera, aged in chestnut and oak, is apparent in the depth and complexity of this beautiful cava. $85 Raventos i Blanc L hereu Brut 2012 (Bodegas Raventós i Blanc, Conca del Riu Anoia). A venerable cava producer that I m thrilled to have! The traditional grapes, xarel-lo, macabeu, and parellada, are grown on calcareous clay near a forest that keeps things cool, so the acidity is delightful. The wine is fresh and floral in the nose, then round and smooth in the mouth with perfect little bubbles. $42 Raventos i Blanc Nit rosat 2012 (Bodegas Raventos i Blanc, Conca del Riu Anoia). A bit of monastrell is added to the xarel-lo, macabeu, and parellada blend, lending an elegant hue, a layer of complexity, and a distinctly Mediterranean whisper of ripe fruit. Ginger notes interlink with roses and autolytic funk on the nose. Incredibly compelling! Clean and bright in the mouth, with a profoundly vinous quality. Dry, deep, and divine! $50! 8!8

9 raventos i blanc Gran reserva 2007 ( Raventos i Blanc, Conca del Riu Anoia). Grace and beauty in the form of bubbles - enough to make you a reverent soul. The Gran Reserva has choir of acidity reminiscent of champagne, but also the earthly presence of rocks we love in cava. Medium-bodied and layered with fresh almond, ripe apple, golden raspberry, and your cup runneth over with such persistent and fine foam. $75 Avinyo cava Brut nature REserva (Esteve Nadal, D.O. Cava, Avinyonet del Penedes). The elegance resonates in the bubbles as they taunt you with the aromas of Spanish fruits - nísperos, figs, white nectarines. In the mouth the minerals glitter and shimmer under their lacy veil of lees. Full yet pretty, this cava loves food and conversation. Enjoy the long, lingering finish where rain, apple skin and yeast weave seamlessly. $44 Avinyo cava Brut Rosat REserva (Esteve Nadal, D.O. Cava, Avinyonet del Penedes). The hue is vivid cherry, with a hint of orange. Subtly fragrant with flowers, raspberries, and butterscotch. This cava is a true wine experience, full-bodied and deep, with a crowning of excited sea foam. Notes of apple, hickory, and crystalized ginger. Autolysis whispers, strawberries caress, and white pepper surprises. Earth and stones show up on the finish of this tannic, crisp cava. $48 Avinyo cava Brut gran REserva (Esteve Nadal, D.O. Cava, Avinyonet del Penedes). One of the sleekest and sexiest cavas I ve ever had. Diamond-fine bubbles permeate a wine that would have fascinating breadth all on its own. Like finely woven linen, there is symmetry, elegance, and strength. Clean like a wild stream - the stones, moss, and snails are meant to be there. $65 Naverán Perles Roses Pinot noir (Bodegas Naverán, D.O. Cava, Torrelavit, Penedes). Amazingly complex, with such diverse aromas as crab, gravel, ginger, and dough. In the mouth it is the definition of crisp - dry and focused. Dried apricot and apple, with yeast and schoolpaste notes that intrigue. Deliciously funky yet superbly elegant. Romantic and unique, too. $55 Huguet Brut Nature 2008 Gran Reserva (Huguet de Can Feixes, Cabrera de Anoia, Penedés). A fresh and thrilling nose of fine yeast and lime zest. The finest, lightest bubbles in the mouth. Like an ethereal mousse of minerals, white raspberry, & wet stone. Disgorged in September of 2008, this elegant, no-dosage cava is a wonder. $50 a roca Brut Reserva 2013 (Agustí Torelló, Vi de Terrer, Classic Penedés). Estate-grown fruit and passionate expertise make a sublime sparkling wine that chooses to remain outside the D.O. Cava. Lean, bright, and elegant, the wine combines the flesh of Spain s ripe fruit with the restrained elegance of fine champagne. Notes of white pepper, lemon, fine lees. $55 bermejo espumoso brut nature (Los Bermejos, Lanazarote, Islas Canarias). Sparkling wine (white) made 100% malvasia that is as fragrant as flowers in the nose and cool and stony as wet rocks in the mouth. Elegant foamy bubbles make a bee-line for your senses, prickling you with the pleasure of white peach, Meyer lemon, pear, and a whiff of yeast. Fresh, deep, unique, and wildly enticing! (Not from the D.O. Cava, but a lovely sparkling wine nonetheless). $80 Bermejo espumoso Rosado brut nature (Los Bermejos, Lanazarote, Islas Canarias). Bold and bone dry, this sparkling wine is a unique specimen with ashy notes underneath a bushel of raspberry and a long curly strip of red apple skin. The bubbles are full of life and drama - an applause and a rainstorm. The finish is broad and bracing, and reminds your palate that the Listan Negro grapes were indeed grown in volcanic soil! $68! 9!9

10 Recaredo Brut nature gran reserve 2008 (Cava Recaredo, D.O. Cava, San Sadurni d Anoia). Profoundly alluring lemon, vanilla, wet sand, nutmeg, fine cordial. Care and tradition define this biodynamically-farmed, family estate. The bubbles are a lovely mousse of straw, toast, and white raspberries. Twenty nine months on the lees lend this wine an enviable depth of character! $65 Recaredo Gran Reserva 2006 (Cava Recaredo, D.O. Cava, San Sadurni d Anoia). Lush aromas of fresh figs and lemons brushed with a note of caramel. The texture is creamy yet bright with infinite minute bubbles that burst into the most supple, giving cava imaginable. Minerals alight and the earth is a celebration in this complex, sublime cava. $95 Recaredo Brut de Brut Gran Reserva 2005 (Cava Recaredo, D.O. Cava, San Sadurni d Anoia). Tears of elegance and stars of chalk dust waft in this ethereal expression of xarel-lo & macabeu. Lemon oil, macadamia, a whiff of tarte tatin with a crumbly buttery crust. Light and feathery, with taut edges and a lay-me-down soft fruit center, full of almond, seashell, and kefir lime. Evolved, mature, and confident - like an elder statesman. $110 Gramona Celler Batlle 2004 (Elaborador Gramona, D.O.Cava, San Sadurni d Anoia). This superlative cava is like the finest of champagnes, with its elegant aromas of toasted brioche and hint of white nectarine. Five years on the lees are apparent in its haunting, almost savory flavor profile a waft here of white mushroom, a note there of fine bread yeast, a bit of malt. There are undeniably Spanish aromas of almond and a fervent intensity of beauty within each of the tight bubbles. A marvel of tradition and style. $125 White wine RIPE AND JUICY Viña Mein 2014 (Lugar de Mein, D.O. Ribeiro, San Clodio, Leiro, Ourense).Invigorating aromas of wet steel and tart apple, with elements of yeast and olive. This true-to-terroir wine dances in a light, vivacious way on the tongue, flaunting its crisp, balanced self. Notes of white pepper and lemon thyme are bright. A teasing kiss of unripe pineapple lingers... The coolness of Galicia! $36 rogo godello 2014 ( C.V.A., D.O. Valdeorras, Vilamatin, Ourense). Bouncy lychees and cold pineapple glow rich and ripe on a bed of lees and white mushrooms. Flowers waft in and out, and you have the sensation of a lovely, clean breeze on your palate. 60 days on the lees by no malolactic fermentation keep the wine rich but nervy. $36 Quibia 2014 (An Negra Viticultors, Vi de la Terra, Mallorca). Made with the native grape variety prensal, this flower of a wine is fragrant with lilies, jasmine, and a hint of white peach. The texture is plush and pretty with glycerine, but there is a firm and exciting base of slate and chalk minerality. A graceful dance of light fruits such as melon, pear, and lychee plays out $35 Tajinatste 2015 (Agustín García, D.O. Valle de la Orotava, Tenerife, Canary Islands). These listen blanco grapes mature slowly and comfortably, protected from he hot climate of Tenerife by cooling trade winds called vientos alisios. Star fruit and loquat are tropical and lush while he burst of lemon sunshine is brisk and serious. Dewy soft and supple, with a lot of body. Like cupid. $40! 10!10

11 martin sancho Verdejo 2013 (Bodegas Angel Garcia, D.O. Rueda,, La Seca). Pure, sexy, passion fruit, focused and riveting. Angel Garcia can claim the oldest known vine of verdejo on his property, and he replants with cuttings from this madre. Fresh and true to terroir, his wine is redolent of orange blossom and pillowed with glycerine. The daddy of all verdejos! $35 Antonio Sanz verdejo 2013 (Bodegas Antonio Sanz D.O. Rueda, Valladolid). A pioneer in Rueda since 1976, Antonio Sanz is an expert who dares to intervene as little as possible. The grapes (100% verdejo) are harvested at night to preserve aromatics, resulting in a stunning splash of passion fruit, white peach, and grapefruit zest. Broad and glossy in the mouth, the wine is balanced with lime notes of acidity and loves to share your mouth with almost any food. Organic & voluptuous. $35 Gessami Muscat 2014 (Elaborador Gramona, D.O. Penedés, San Sadurni d Anoia). The heady aromas of lychee and pineapple are laced with white lily. In the mouth, the wine is supple and smooth with a candied lemon peel center. Brilliant, soft and refreshing. $39 Remeluri blanco 2012 (La Granja Ntra. Sra. De Remelluri, D.O.Ca. Rioja, Labastida, Alava). Completely riveting, a magical butter cup infused with aromas of lemon curd, ginger peelings, roasted parsnip, pickled almonds, and white cherry. The texture is precious, pillowy and sleek, like well-wrought brocade. Fresh endive and lemon on the endless finish. Telmo Rodriguez (who won t tell me the cepage) coaxed this Riojan white creature to life. Stunning. $140 placet 2011 (Bodegas Palacios Remondo, D.O. Rioja, Alfaro). Such finesse & strength, from 100% viura grapes! Left on its lees for 7 months (in oak), the wine is marvelously complex, but miraculously fresh. Its aromas of endive, almond, coriander seed, and buttermilk are enthralling, but it is the full-bodied, smooth, weighty complexity that gives the wine its integrity. Organically farmed, this single vineyard gem pushes all the boundaries. By Alvaro Palacios, of course! $75 Taleia 2012 (Castell D Encus, D.O. Costers del Segre, Catalunya). Obsession is ethereal and regal, fermented in oak with 5 months on the lees. Aromas of fresh spring forest - fir, birch, fern, things budding with life s potential... Lithe in the mouth, with notes of goat s milk butter, white peach, & kumquat. Winemaker Raul Bobet is a brave, learned pioneer in this high and wild land. $66 Ekam 2012 (Castell D Encus, D.O. Costers del Segre, Catalunya). Rich aromas of honeysuckle and buttermilk tempt your senses, and then a more riesling-like taste unfolds on the tongue. This unique white is smooth, fruity, and lush, as you would expect from a cepage of 90% riesling and 10% albariñõ. The natural acidity makes the wine bright and clean. Evolved and sophisticated. $66 L avi arrufi 2013 blanc fermentado en barrica (Celler Piñol, D.O. Terra Alta, Batea, Catalunya). Garnatxa blanca is always impressive in stature - this one is as elegant as it is full. 90 year old vines, high altitude, and 7 months in barrique make for a rich and spicy white, dewey in texture. Pear and white raspberries are peppered with minerals. Big and wonderful! $66 Terra de Cuques 2013 (Terroir al Limit, D.O.Q. Priorat, Torroja). A sublime and sybarite white from Prioarat, lush with fresh fig, raw honey, pear, and metallic mineral aromas. It is round. Polished. Deep. Made like a red - infused, not extracted - Cuques is a firefly flash of un-oaked silk, with an interminable finish rich with blood orange, honeysuckle, lemon peel, and raw fascination. Made in cement with whole grape clusters and wild indigenous yeasts. $85! 11!11

12 WHITE WINE Todo albarino nessa 2014 (Adegas Gran Vinum, D.O. Rias Baixas, Vilagarcia de Arousa). Aromas of passionfruit, pineapple, and fresh, sweet clam. The texture is cool - a plump center with steely, lemon-acid edges. Notes of granite and loquat on the finish. A pure expression at a low price. $36 Laxas Albariño 2015 (Bodegas As Laxas, D.O. Rias Baixas, Arbo, Pontevedra). Laxas is a lovely, clean expression of albariño. There are notes of balsam fir, gardenia, & green apple wrapped in a wonderfully lithe mouth feel. The wine is supple, with light notes of pear and perfect grapes, enlivened by nice acidity. A long finish with well-established tannins keeps you fully engaged. $36 Pazo de barrantes Albariño 2013 (Pazo de Barrantes, D.O.Rias Baixas, Barrantes, Pontevedra). Profoundly aromatic with heady spices and perfectly ripened fruit. Jasmine, loquat, pear, and lemon. Bristling minerality, a mouthful of Rias Baixas. Nips of salty brine, a granite edge, and a kettle drum of resounding fruit - passionfruit & pineapple. Beauty & terroir! $38 granbazan 2014 Etiqueta ambar 2014 (Agro de Bazán, D.O. Rias Baixas, Pontevedra). A gorgeous melange of apricot and lilies, with tart notes of green apple and tangerine. The granite is clearly visible at the bottom of this slippery nectar pool. A perfect Alice Waters pear comes to mind, as does expensive riesling. Made from free-run juice, this albariño is charming, classic, and complex like a prism. $38 Dandelion 2014 (Bodegas Nanclares, D.O. Rias Baixas, Cambados, Pontevedra). Made from very old vines in that enchantingly high-toned style! Lean, linear, and long! Oyster shells, apple skin, and quince flower dew. Starstruck with minerals, sculpted by iron-age tools, alight with acidity. Hard and beautiful. $48 Terras Gauda 2013 (Bodegaas Terras Gauda, D.O. Rias Baixas, O Rosal, Pontevedra). A dreamy blend of albariñõ, loureiro, and caiño, which is how they do it in the sub-zone of O Rosal! Particularly fragrant, with overt notes of orange blossom, apricot, and cucumber. The mouth feel is perfect,with the roundness of gleaming fruit on a slab of cold granite. Lime acidity. $38 Pazo de Galegos albariño 2015 (Pazo de Galegos, D.O. Rias Baixas, Valle de Ulla, Pontevedra). Gentle, breezy aromas of apple, straw, and a faint hint of kiwi. Incredible mouth feel, with the soft, glossy texture of perfectly cared-for grapes picked in their exact moment of rich exuberance. Grown in sandy soils in the driest and most inland section of Rias Baixas, these albariño grapes are slightly riper than their coastal sisters. Notes of lime zest and the camelias. $40 Arcan Albariño 2011 (Adega Pombala Lucia Dominguez, D.O.Rias Baixas, Sanxenxo, Pontevedra). The texture is incredible, both springy and silky. The restrained papaya pulsates with the desire to blossom in your mouth, and underneath this passion there s a granitic edge with a plump, loamy funk and the savory zing of mussel shell. $44 Rozas albariño 2013 (Carmen Carril Martinez,D.O. Rias Baixas, Morouzos Dena, Meaño). A sheet of granite and minerals spreads itself before me, and invitation to pause in a Galician vineyard. An image comes to mind - rocks splashed by the sea, with rich flowers in the background. The texture is soft and silky, with a zing of life. Contrasting dew and ash sensations play tug on the long finish $45! 12!12

13 Lagar de Candes 2013 (Eulogio Gondar Galiñanes, D.O.Rias Baixas, Meaño). The nose is intriguing, with mild herbs and grass, as well as lime and sour orange zest. The acidity in the mouth is delightfully pronounced, with an incredibly pliable, plush texture. There s a mellow snapdragon quality mingling with little saline nips - it makes for flirtatious tension. $45 Cabaleiro do Val 2013 (D.O. Rias Baixas). A mysterious but compelling mist of sea, cornsilk, and creme fraiche greets the nose. Wild, in a word, but strangely subtle. In the mouth all that peace opens up in a tumble of coriander, tea roses and lemon poured out onto a granite slab of minerality. A comet of acidity crosses your tongue and you wonder what just happened to you. This is a truly profound albariño, held back until it was ready to be properly enjoyed. $45 Do Ferreiro Rebisaca 2014 (Adegas Do Ferreiro, D.O. Rias Baixas, Meaño, Pontevedra). Seductively aromatic - long minutes go by and you still hover over the glass sorting through Rebisacas s mysteries. It s the treixadura within! Lilies of the valley, tart nectarines, gooseberries, star fruit, and honeysuckle tease the nose. Like dew and ocean spray in the mouth. Luscious! $40 albariño do ferreiro 2014 (Adegas Do Ferreiro, D.O. Rias Baixas, Val do Salnes, Meaño, Pontevedra). Brine and pine aromas mingle with a hint of papaya. Full-bodied and quite lush, this old-vines albarino is complex and stunning. Not as overtly tropical as some, it is deep like the nearby forest and completely refreshing with its bracing skin-tannin quality. The natural yeasts wink on the considerable finish. $42 do Ferreiro cepas vellas 2011 (Adegas Do Ferreiro, D.O. Rias Baixas, Meaño, Pontevedra). This is a smoother, even deeper elixir by Gerardo Mendez, the Father Nature force behind Do Ferreiro, made from old vines. VERY old vines - some are 300 years old, black and swirly vines majestic and mossy. The aromas are rainy, profoundly clean, with notes of flint, fresh pineapple, lemon, and fine lees. In the mouth the texture is a fine, slippery, silky affair, but tiny arrows of acidity dart the edges of your tongue playfully. Peerless among albariños. $75 Sálvora 2013 (Rodrigo Mendez, D.O. Rias Baixas, Val do Salnes, Sanxenxo, Pontevedra). Fermented in neutral oak foudres, Sálvora possesses the satiny texture of buerre blanc - and all the snappy citric notes, too. It rests for 12 months on its lees, (with no baronage and the skins are pulled off the top!!) and acquires the layered complexity of a Napoleon. Fine lychee, lemon grass, gooseberry, white peach and the tiniest touch of oak. The old has become new again. $70 Leirana Albariño 2014 (Forjas del Salnes, D.O. Rias Baixas, Val do Salnes, Sanxenxo, Pontevedra). 60 year-old vines fermented in stainless steel offer up an expression of albariño that is pure and lithe. The texture is silky and fine, with a cool breeze of sea & eucalyptus across balmier notes of kumquat zest and passion fruit. Exquisitely wrought by Raul Perez & Rodri Goliardo. $65 Leirana Finca Genoveva 2013 ( Forjas del Salnes, D.O. Rias Baixas, Val do Salnes, Sanxenxo, Pontevedra). A highly toned - not to mention highly desirable but scarce! - wine, gleaming with beams of acidity and piquant with salty fermented things. Kelp and pineapple are in a purely hedonistic relationship here, and their thrill is palpable. Savory and stunning, with a satin texture. $78! 13!13

14 Leirana LUisa Lazaro 2005 (Forjas del Salnes, D.O. Rias Baixas, Val do Salnes, Sanxenxo, Pontevedra). Aged albariño from a cold vintage, with incredible tension between the supple glycerine and the taut arrow of acidity running through. This wine rested peacefully in stainless steel for 10 years, gaining in complexity and mystery. Next vintage will be 2013, which was equally cold and wet. A unique and truly sublime wine that speaks of granite and lime $120 sketch 2012 (Raúl Perez, D.O. Rias Baixas, Dena, Val do Salnés). Innovative, as it was bottleaged 60 ft under the sea tied to a mussel barge in the cold Atlantic, in the Aurosa estuary. Glorious, as it is a soft, round blossoming of silky fruits. Riveting, as the mineralality creates a hard, forged edge that you simply can t resist. Grown on sand over granite, 150 m. from the sea. Pure genius. $125 White wine DRY AND ELEGANT Fino Eléctrico (Toro Albalá, D.O. Montilla-Moriles, Córdoba). A sherry-like wine made 100 miles away from Jerez, from Pedro Ximénez grapes (not palomino). It is bone dry on the palate, but exhibits pretty apple and spice aromas on the nose, as well as the yeast and brine duo that emerges in wines raised under flor. Although unfortified, it still packs a 15% wallop that you will love with your spicy and/or salty foods. Pleasantly plump and quickly quaffable! $35 Calcari 2014 (Pares Balta, D.O, Penedés, Barcelona). A bristling 100% xarel-lo with a character more mineral than fruit! Lovely notes of pear and white peach are subtle, and the sterling power of calcium, wet rocks, and stone dust are what give the wine meaning. Biodynamic. $35 Can Feixes SElecció 2015 (Huguet de Can Feixes, D.O. Penedés, Cabrera d Anoia). A lovely dry white made from chardonnay, montonec, macabeu, and malvasia. Subtle aromas of lime, meadow, and a hint of olive. The texture is pretty - light, but very present! Tart apple acidity. $35 gaba do xil 2013 (Compania de Vinos Telmo Rodriguez, D.O. Valdeorras, Ourense). A fresh expression of godello, with hints of beeswax and camomile. The wine is rich from the lees-stirring, but light and refreshing. Plump in the center with summery floral notes, incredibly appealing. $35 Amizade godello 2014 (Elaborado y embotellado por R.E., D.O. Monterrei, Verin, Ourense). Even the aromas are crisp and refreshing! Brisk beach air and tart apple brighten your day. Dry, savory, and lean, this godello has notes of truffle and seashell. The 6 months of lees time gives texture without weight. Wild herbs and iodine on the finish. Delightful! $35 a coroa 2013 (Adegas A Coroa, D.O. Valdeorras, A Rua, Ourense). Aromas of goat buttermilk and hay, with shining glints of lemon. 11 was a perfect vintage, and the grapes are ripe yet bursting with mouth-watering acidity. Caper and slate wow your palate and the leesy notes are seductive. $35 val de sil Godello 2013 (Bodegas Valdesil, D.O. Valdeorras, Ourense). The aromas are a savory twist on white wine truffle and the finest cheese. In the mouth the wine is rich and creamy, with a vivacious nerve of lemon acidity embedded in so much provocative creaminess. This is a fine representation of the new style of the godello grape; intense and full-bodied. $43 Aloers xarel-l (Celler Credo, D.O. Penedés,Sant Sadurni d Anoia). The fresh appleskin is a brisk counterpoint to the lively, farmy, buttermilk notes on the nose. Hard minerals make the wine elegant and a leesy presence makes it sexy. Layered like the old soils of its birthplace! $44! 14!14

15 silencis xarel-lo 2014 (Raventós i Blanc, D.O. Penedés, Sant Sadurní d Anoia). A profoundly aromatic wine, redolent of fig, caper, & birch. The 80 year-old xarel-lo vines are bushtrained and grown in ancient calcareous and sandy soils. The wine has a richness in the mouth that is sheer delight - nu, says Pepe Raventós, naked. Notes of apple and oat-straw. $45 Blanc d Orto 2014 (Orto Vins, D.O. Montsant, El Masroig). All the best smells an orchard has to offer - apricot, pear, apple, and wet stones. Round and citric, with lemon thyme and fennel. Bright like Joan s sun-drenched vineyard, juicy with the acidity that only the most skilled vintners can coax from such a warm place. There s a pretty tannic presence from one day of skin contact prior to fermentation as well as the inclusion of stems. Eight months of lees contact (in stainless) add texture, but nothing detracts from the purity of starting with free-run juice! $ Cestos 2012 (Bodegas A Coroa, D.O. Valdeorras, A Rua, Ourense). Only 200 baskets of grapes are harvested each year from this granitic vineyard called Valdeaguas. The godello vines are 65 years old, and they bleed for us a wine that is so tender, so pretty, and yet such a force on the palate, you can t help but be in the moment. Within the gossamer texture are sunbeams of white cherry, yellow plum, and Meyer lemon. The granite presence is like a shiny grey gem for the wine to dry its baby butterfly wings on. $68 Emilio Rojo 2013 (Viticultor Emilio Rojo Bangueses, D.O. Ribeiro, Ponte Arnoia, Ribadavia, Ourense). Complex, fragrant, and RARE Ribeiro. Only 50 cases enter the USA. Emilio is a one-man show (with his amazing wife, of course!) with no desire to grow. Layers, lively and full, unfold on the palate, bringing pear, chamomile, kumquat and lemon. Wild yeasts show up sexy in the lees. His small plot and his supremely elegant wine recall fine white burgundy, only lusher. Sublime! $125 Escanyavella 2011 Vi de la vila (Cal Batllet, D.O.Q. Priorat, Gratallops). Escanyavella is a grape with a cruel name that means chokes the old lady due to its extraordinarily thick skin. From these 60 year old grapevines, Marc Ripoll Sans coaxes a an excellent wine that is at once huge and lovely. Aromas of truffle, ginger, sap and smoke part any clouds in your brain. In the mouth the wine is tight and taut, with a little give in the center, with a daring note of caper and glittering minerals. Four months in neutral oak smooth out the tannin of this big grape. Vina gravonia Reserva blanco 2005 (Bodegas Lopez de Heredia, D.O.Ca. Rioja, Haro). The youthful side of viura, vinified with equal measures passion and experience. Acorn, hazelnut, nectarine, and lemon zest brighten your outlook on things. The delicate apple, Asian pear, and almond notes in the mouth are fervently traditional but lively and clearcut. Wonderful! $65 Vina gravonia Reserva blanco 2004 (Bodegas Lopez de Heredia, D.O.Ca. Rioja, Haro). A curvy expression of viura, kissed all over with feather-light oak. The wine has energy - it pounces with nectarine, lemon peel, apricot. White pepper and almonds on the finish. $75 Lapola 2014 (Dominio do Bibei, D.O. Ribeira Sacra, Lugo). Old vines from an ancient site in an almost forgotten place. 70% godello, 20% albariño, 10% dona branca, range in age from 6 to 100, and smell of enokis and meringue. The wine is sleek on the tongue, with subtle and wellintegrated oak and stealthy acidity that brings what s old to life. Almond, buttermilk, and beeswax. Lovely! $60 $68! 15!15

16 Os Pasás 2012 (Luis A. Rodriguez Vazquez, D.O. Ribeiro, Arnoia). Tiny production, enormous pleasure. Angel-wing textured, this blend of treixadura, albariño, lado & torrontés is at once silken and nervy. The naked fragrance of preserved lemon, fresh fig, tart quince, and apricot are locked in a passionate embrace with quiveringly fresh oyster and kelp. The finish is sigh-provoking. $68 Pezas da Portela Valdesil Godello 2011 (Bodegas Valdesil, D.O. Valdeorras, Ourense,). Rich aromas of buttermilk, lemon, and a bit of acorn. The wine is lush in the mouth, but punctuated with stars of lemon zest and jagged minerals that delight. This 1885 clone of godello is grown on black slate slopes, 500 meters up, along the River Sil. Crisp pear & spice on the finish. $68 Vina tondonia 1998 reserva Blanco (Bodegas Lopez de Herédia, D,O.Ca. Rioja, Haro). Golden and glorious, redolent of dried peach and fresh quince. The mouth feel is pillowy and pure - slows your heart rate nicely. The signature lemon & acorn are at once bright and quaint, and the finish has intriguing ground cherry fragrance. Beautiful, rich, balanced, iconic. $135 Vina tondonia 1996 reserva Blanco (Bodegas Lopez de Herédia, D,O.Ca. Rioja, Haro). This wine is more Other-worldly than Old-world, so rare and special is it. Your eyes will close in rapt pleasure as you experience the aromas of dried rose, orange cream, shortbread dough, nutmeg. Then you will throw them open as you taste a completely dry wine that is nearly 2 decades old and still alive with lemony acidity. Hints of an oyster brininess and heavy minerals on the finish. $150 Viña tondonia Gran Reserva blanco 1991 (Bodegas Lopez de Herédia, D.O.Ca. Rioja, Haro). A rare delicacy, white wine over 20 years of age in pristine condition. A aromas of roasted pear and warm hay. Big and impressive in the mouth, with still-grand lemon acidity lighting up the golden juice. A dizzying array of nuances caress the palate: lanolin, baked apple, tangerine preserves, honey, nutmeg, coconut. Dry yet silky, focused yet sensual. Poetic in its perfection. $250 white wine dazzling Txakolina (There are also three rosé txakolinas on page 15 and two red txakolinas on page 16.). Ameztoi 2015 (Bodegas Ameztoi D.O. Guetariako Txakolina, Pais Vasco, Guipuzcoa). Wow! Lime zest and melon rind have never seemed so cool, so lovely! In the mouth there s a hint of salinity embedded in the green apple splash, and the sparkle is just perfect. A lightening zap of fragrance, acidity, and refreshment. (also in rosé) $36 Gorrondona 2015 (Bodegas Doñiene Gorrondona, D.O. Bizkaiko Txakolina, Bakio, Guipuzcoa). A fine spray of almond, passion fruit and ocean titillate the senses. This txakolina offers texture and depth as well as the requisite eye-widening acidity and brightness. Rich, yet spirited. $36 ulacia 2014 (Nicolas Ulacia e Hijo, D.O. Getariako Txakolina, Getaria). Sea brine aromas give way to lovely waves of Basque mist, tangerine, cucumber, oyster. Made form Hondarrabi Zuri & Beltza, the wine is subtle, but alive with minerals, effervescence & a splash of tang. (also in rosé) $37 Txomin Etxañiz 2014 (Bodegas Txomin Etxañiz, D.O. Txakolina Getariako Txakolina, Pais Vasco). Pale green apple notes zoom up, born on tiny, teasing bubbles that offer mist and crushed stone in one reality-defying whiff. Dry and refreshing with stars of minerals and bursts of lime. $38! 16!16