De Maison Selections Reviews from The Wine Advocate Issue 195, June 2011

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1 De Maison Selections Reviews from The Wine Advocate Issue 195, June 2011 All reviews were written by Jay Miller and were published in issue 195 (June 2011) of The Wine Advocate. Original reviews can be found online at erobertparker.com (subscription required). Tasting notes, wine and winery names, and technical information appear as published on erobertparker.com and may contain errors in spelling and content, further information on these wines can be found online at The wines were tasted in early 2011 so some of the vintages reviewed may not be current. 96 points 1999 Remelluri La Granja Remelluri Rioja Gran Reserva The monumental 1999 Remelluri La Granja Gran Reserva is a testament to what can be achieved in Rioja. Made up of a blend of 86% Tempranillo, 12% Garnacha, and 2% Graciano, it was fermented with native yeasts and aged for 27 months in French and American oak. Beautifully expressive aromatically, it gives up exotic spices, lavender, incense, a hint of balsamic, black cherry, and blackberry. In the glass it deftly combines elegance and power while concealing enough structure to endure for at least another years. At the asking price, it is a steal in world class wine. The modern winery of Remelluri was established in The vineyards are farmed organically and the winery employs an integrated system of agriculture. The winemaker is the renowned Telmo Rodriguez. Remelluriʼs Blanco is the reference standard against which all others are measured in virtually every vintage. 94 points 2006 Dominio Do Bibei Mt Ribeira Sacra, Galicia, Spain The 2006 MT is 100% Mouraton, an indigenous variety. It displays a mentholated, cherry-like bouquet reminiscent of Cheracol syrup. Savory, ripe, layered, and concentrated, this nicely proportioned effort is likely to evolve for 2-3 years and drink well from 2013 to Dominio do Bibei is a 125 hectare estate of which 45 are planted to the red varieties of Mencia, Garnacha, Brancellao, and Mouraton and the white varieties of Dona Blanca, Godello, and Albarino.

2 94 points 2006 Hermanos Sastre Pago de Santa Cruz Ribera Del Duero, Castilla Leon, Spain The 2006 Pago de Santa Cruz is sourced from a single vineyard with 65+-year-old vines. It spent 34 months in seasoned French and American oak before bottling without fining or filtration. Dense purple in color, it sports a splendid nose of Asian spices, incense, tapenade, licorice, lavender, and blackberry. In the glass it reveals a plush texture with enough underlying structure to evolve for 5-6 years. Dense, incipiently complex, and lengthy, it will benefit from additional cellaring and will offer a drinking window extending from 2016 to Vina Sastre is a benchmark estate in Ribera del Duero. It is committed to organic farming and biodynamic principles with the wines naturally made and bottled without fining or filtration. 94 points 2007 Remelluri Rioja The 2007 Remelluri is composed of 90% Tempranillo, 5% Graciano, and 5% Garnacha fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged for 16 months in seasoned French and American oak. Deep purple in color, it reveals an already complex bouquet of exotic spices, leather, violets, mineral, and assorted black fruits. In the glass it is succulent with plush fruit, terrific grip and volume, and a lengthy, rich, supple finish. It can be approached now but is likely to continue filling out for several more years. The modern winery of Remelluri was established in The vineyards are farmed organically and the winery employs an integrated system of agriculture. The winemaker is the renowned Telmo Rodriguez. Remelluriʼs Blanco is the reference standard against which all others are measured in virtually every vintage. 94 points 2007 Remelluri Blanco The 2007 Remelluri Blanco is a blend of 7 grapes varieties with the largest roles played by Garnacha Blanca (25%) and a combination of Roussanne and Marsanne (25%). The wine is fermented with native yeasts with malolactic fermentation in barrel followed by 16 months of aging in new French oak. It offers up a glorious perfume of buttered popcorn, tropical fruits, jasmine, baking spices, and minerals. In the glass the oak is

3 integrated, the texture silky, and the wineʼs acid structure is firm and uplifting. It is likely to evolve for several years adding to its already considerable complexity. Drink this outstanding effort from 2013 to The modern winery of Remelluri was established in The vineyards are farmed organically and the winery employs an integrated system of agriculture. The winemaker is the renowned Telmo Rodriguez. Remelluriʼs Blanco is the reference standard against which all others are measured in virtually every vintage. 93 points 2006 Hermanos Sastre Regina Vides Ribera Del Duero, Castilla Leon, Spain The 2006 Regina Vides was sourced from 82-year-old vines, fermented naturally, and aged in 100% new French oak. Aromas of pain grille, pencil lead, exotic spices, herbs, licorice, and blackberry compose the bouquet of this sweetly-fruited, large-scaled, nicely proportioned behemoth. Give it 8-10 years of additional cellaring and enjoy it from 2019 to Vina Sastre is a benchmark estate in Ribera del Duero. It is committed to organic farming and biodynamic principles with the wines naturally made and bottled without fining or filtration. 92 points 2005 Conde de Hervias Mencos Reserva The 2005 Reserva spent 16 months in seasoned American oak. Asian spices, leather, incense, violets, and blackberry aromas compose the bouquet of this intense, layered, structured offering from the powerful 2005 vintage. Give it another 3-4 years of cellaring and drink it from 2014 to The Conde de Hervias estate is located in Rioja Alta. 92 points 2009 Do Ferreiro Albarino Cepas Vellas Rias Baixas, Galicia, Spain The 2009 Do Ferreiro Cepas Vellas is 100% Albarino sourced from vines over 200 years old and aged sur lie for 12 months. Light gold in color, it offers up intense aromas

4 of spring flowers, lemon meringue, melon, and mineral. In the glass it reveals an excellent acid structure, intense flavors, and impeccable balance. Drink this lengthy effort over the next 3-4 years. Do Ferreiro, an 11 acre estate, much of it old vines, was founded in Gerardo Mendez farms it organically, uses native yeast fermentation, and ages his wines sur lie. 92 points 2009 Emilio Rojo Ribeiro, Spain Emilio Rojo makes one wine at his 4.4 acre Ribeiro estate which he founded in The 2009 Emilio Rojo is a blend of 55% Treixadura with the balance Loureira, Lado, Albarino, and Torrontes. Fresh herbs, white fruits, and minerals inform the nose of a savory, spicy, complex offering that has superb volume and precision balance. It is likely to unwind for another 1-2 years and offer prime drinking through points 2009 A Coroa Godello A Coroaʼs 10 hectares of Godello are farmed organically, the grapes are fermented with native yeasts, and are aged sur lie for 6 months. Mineral, melon, tropical aromas, and floral notes inform the nose of this savory, dry, concentrated effort. With excellent volume, balance, and length, it should provide much enjoyment over the next 4-5 years. 91+ points 2006 Bodegas Ostatu Reserva The 2006 Ostatu Reserva was fermented with native yeasts and aged for 14 months in French oak. Savory, structured, and sweetly-fruited, this already complex offering will continue to evolve for another 3-4 years with a drinking window extending from 2014 to Bodegas Ostatu is a family-owned winery in the heart of the Rioja Alavesa region. The average age of the estateʼs vines is 50 years. Ostatuʼs winemaking consultant is the renowned Hubert de Bouard of Chateau Angelus fame.

5 91 points 2009 D Ventura Vina Caneiro Ribeira Sacra, Galicia, Spain The 2009 Vina Caneiro is denser in color, sweeter, rounder, and very concentrated with tons of flavor. Incipiently complex, it will benefit from another 1-2 years of cellaring to reveal its full potential. Drink it from 2012 to D. Venturaʼs three offerings are unoaked 100% Mencia sourced from organically farmed vineyards, fermented with native yeasts, and bottled without filtration or cold stabilization. 91 points 2008 Dominio Do Bibei Lapola Ribeira Sacra, Galicia, Spain The 2008 Lapola is a blend of 80% Godello, with the balance Dona Blanca, Torrontes, and Louriera. It was fermented in seasoned 600-liter barrels and aged sur lie for 9 months. It offers up alluring aromas of nutmeg, jasmine, melon, lemon, and almonds. This is followed by a vibrant, complex, mouth-filling wine that will drink nicely for another 4-5 years. Dominio do Bibei is a 125 hectare estate of which 45 are planted to the red varieties of Mencia, Garnacha, Brancellao, and Mouraton and the white varieties of Dona Blanca, Godello, and Albarino. 91 points 2008 Hermanos Sastre Crianza Ribera Del Duero, Castilla Leon, Spain The 2008 Crianza spent 18 months in new French oak before bottling without filtration. This strikingly perfumed effort displays layered fruit, savory flavors, and outstanding density. It has enough structure to evolve for 2-3 years and will deliver optimum drinking from 2013 to Vina Sastre is a benchmark estate in Ribera del Duero. It is committed to organic farming and biodynamic principles with the wines naturally made and bottled without fining or filtration.

6 91 points 2007 Luberri Biga The 2007 Biga spent 12 months in French and American oak. A bit more brooding aromatically, it offers up notes of balsam wood, leather, cinnamon, clove, pepper, violets, and blackberry. In the glass it reveals enough structure to evolve for 1-2 years while its length and volume suggest a drinking window extending through Luberri is located in El Ciego in the heart of Rioja Alavesa. The estate consists of 35 hectares of old vines. All three wines presented (100% Tempranillo) are excellent to outstanding values. 91 points 2010 Vina Mein Vina Mein Ribeiro, Spain The 2010 Vina Mein is composed of 80% Treixadura along with 6 other varieties fermented and aged sur lie in stainless steel. Tropical aromas, honey, melon, and mineral inform the nose of this dry, complex, vibrant white. With excellent volume and precision balance, this lengthy effort will provide pleasure over the next 5 years. Vina Meinʼs founder, Javier Alen, began his Ribeiro project in 1998 planting the indigenous varietals of the region on 16 hectares of vineyard Ameztoi Rubentis Txakolina Getariako Txakolina, Pais Vasco, Spain The 2010 Ametzoi Rubentis Txakoli is light pink in color with attractive aromas of rose petal and strawberry. Crisp and surprisingly concentrated, this nicely proportioned effort will provide enjoyment over the next months Bodega Gurrutxaga Txakoli Gurrutxaga Rosado Bizkaiko Txakolina, Spain WA, #195, Jun 2011m - Jay Miller The 2010 Rosado is salmon pink with an enticing nose of sea salt and strawberry. Crisp, lively, and surprisingly mouth-filling, it will drink nicely over the next months.

7 2008 Bodegas Ostatu Ostatu The 2008 Ostatu, a wine composed of 95% Tempranillo with the balance Garnacha, Graciano, and Mazuelo. It sports an aromatic array on mineral, potpourri, and a confiture of black fruits. Dense, savory, and ripe on the palate, it has the structure to evolve for 2-3 years and will provide considerable pleasure between 2014 and Bodegas Ostatu is a family-owned winery in the heart of the Rioja Alavesa region. The average age of the estateʼs vines is 50 years. Ostatuʼs winemaking consultant is the renowned Hubert de Bouard of Chateau Angelus fame Conde de Hervias Mencos The entry-level 2009 Mencos is an unoaked cuvee of 100% Tempranillo. Aromas of earthy minerals, spice box, violets, cherry blossom, and blackberry inform the nose of a ripe, firm, savory red with good balance and length. It is an outstanding value meant for drinking over the next 5-6 years. The Conde de Hervias estate is located in Rioja Alta D Ventura Pena Do Lobo Ribeira Sacra, Galicia, Spain The 2009 Pena do Lobo is savory, ripe, vibrant, and pure. Elegant on the palate with a smooth texture, this concentrated, well-balanced wine will drink well for another 4 years. D. Venturaʼs three offerings are unoaked 100% Mencia sourced from organically farmed vineyards, fermented with native yeasts, and bottled without filtration or cold stabilization Do Ferreiro Albarino Rias Baixas, Galicia, Spain

8 The 2009 Do Ferreiro Albarino (100%) displays aromas of mineral, saline, lemon curd, and jasmine. Savory, vibrant, and lengthy on the palate, this nicely proportioned effort will provide enjoyment for another 3-4 years. Do Ferreiro, an 11 acre estate, much of it old vines, was founded in Gerardo Mendez farms it organically, uses native yeast fermentation, and ages his wines sur lie Do Ferreiro Rebisaca Rias Baixas, Galicia, Spain The 2009 Do Ferreiro Rebisaca is a blend of 85% Albarino and 15% Treixadura that spent 10 months sur lie. Mineral, citrus, melon, floral, and spice notes inform the nose of this crisp, vibrant, nicely balanced effort. In the glass it displays lots of flavor, some complexity, good volume, and length. It will continue to drink well for another 3-4 years. Do Ferreiro, an 11 acre estate, much of it old vines, was founded in Gerardo Mendez farms it organically, uses native yeast fermentation, and ages his wines sur lie Garciarevalo Tres Olmos Rueda, Castilla Leon, Spain The 2009 Tres Olmos is 100% Verdejo made from ancient pre-phylloxera vines and aged sur lie for 6 months. It offers up an alluring perfume of jasmine, mineral, nutmeg, white peach, and apricot. In the glass it displays unusual richness for Verdejo, impeccable balance, and a lengthy, fruit-filled finish. Drink this pleasure-bent effort over the next 3-4 years. It is an outstanding value. Garciarevalo is a family owned winery started in The estate consists of 40 hectares, much of it planted to vines over 100 years of age Hermanos Sastre Tinto Ribera Del Duero, Castilla Leon, Spain The red wines (all made from 100% Tempranillo) begin with the 2009 Tinto, a product of the great 2009 vintage in Ribera del Duero. Fragrant aromas of spice box, lavender,

9 espresso, black cherry, and blackberry are followed by a sweetly-fruited, dense, lengthy red that may evolve for 1-2 years and will drink well for another 5. It is an outstanding value. Vina Sastre is a benchmark estate in Ribera del Duero. It is committed to organic farming and biodynamic principles with the wines naturally made and bottled without fining or filtration Joan d'anguera Finca l'argata Tarragona, Spain The 2008 Finca LʼArgata is composed of 40% Syrah, 40% Garnatxa, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in French oak for 14 months. Sweetly fruited, fragrant, and layered on the palate, this dense effort has enough structure to evolve for 3-4 years. Nicely proportioned and lengthy, it will provide optimum drinking from 2014 to Joan d'anguera Garnatxa Monsant, Spain Joan dʼangueraʼs unoaked 2009 Garnatxa (100%) was fermented with native yeasts. It offers up an alluring perfume of earthy minerals, spice box, and ripe black cherries. Sweetly fruited, smooth-textured, and plush on the palate, it will provide considerable pleasure over the next 5-6 years. It is also an excellent value Joan d'anguera La Planella Tarragona, Spain The 2009 Planella is a blend of 40% Mazuelo (Carinena), 20% Syrah, 20% Garnatxa, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 11 months in French and American oak. Deep purple in color, it exhibits an inviting nose of cedar, mineral, balsamic, lavender, leather, and assorted black fruits. Rich, layered, and succulent on the palate, it will evolve for 2-3 years and offer prime drinking from 2013 to Luberri Seis

10 The 2008 Seis de Luberri spent 6 months in French and American oak. It offers up an inviting nose of cedar, leather, violets, spice box, and assorted black fruits. Already revealing a bit of complexity, this elegantly-styled Rioja has the balance and concentration to drink well through Luberri is located in El Ciego in the heart of Rioja Alavesa. The estate consists of 35 hectares of old vines. All three wines presented (100% Tempranillo) are excellent to outstanding values Vina Mein Vina Mein Fermentado en Barrica Ribeiro, Spain The 2009 Vina Mein Fermentado en Barrica displays a whiff of butter, a hint of mineral, melon, and other white fruits. It is a tasty, lengthy effort that lacks the vibrancy of the unoaked cuvee. Nevertheless, it is an outstanding effort that will also drink well for another 5 years. Vina Meinʼs founder, Javier Alen, began his Ribeiro project in 1998 planting the indigenous varietals of the region on 16 hectares of vineyard. 89 points 2010 Bodega Gurrutxaga Txakoli Gurrutxaga Bizkaiko Txakolina, Spain The 2010 Txakoli Gurrutxaga displays a light fizz from carbon dioxide. It has greater density than most of its peers along with an enticing nose of citrus, mineral, and jasmine. Crisp, vibrant, and lengthy, it will provide enjoyment over the next months. 89 points 2010 Bodegas Ostatu Blanco The 2010 Ostatu Blanco is a blend of 90% Viura and 10% Malvasia fermented with native yeasts and raised in stainless steel. Light gold in color, it offers up an inviting nose of mineral, melon, and floral notes. Smooth-textured, savory, and nicely proportioned, it is an excellent value in white Rioja.

11 Bodegas Ostatu is a family-owned winery in the heart of the Rioja Alavesa region. The average age of the estateʼs vines is 50 years. Ostatuʼs winemaking consultant is the renowned Hubert de Bouard of Chateau Angelus fame. 89 points 2008 Conde de Hervias Mencos Crianza The 2008 Crianza is also 100% Tempranillo aged for 12 months in seasoned American oak. Cedar, spice box, tobacco, a hint of balsamic, and blackberry aromas inform the nose of a savory, flavorful, layered Crianza that can be approached now but will drink well through The Conde de Hervias estate is located in Rioja Alta. 89 points 2010 D Ventura Vina Do Burato Ribeira Sacra, Galicia, Spain The 2010 Vina do Burato is a grapy, Beaujolais-like offering that offers up enticing aromas of mineral, balsamic, and black raspberry. Concentrated and lively on the palate, this nicely proportioned effort will provide enjoyment over the next 3 years. D. Venturaʼs three offerings are unoaked 100% Mencia sourced from organically farmed vineyards, fermented with native yeasts, and bottled without filtration or cold stabilization. 89 points 2009 Hermanos Sastre Flavus Ribera Del Duero, Castilla Leon, Spain The current offerings include one white wine, the 2009 Flavus made from 100% Jaen (more commonly known as Palomino). It was sourced from 70-year-old vines, fermented with native yeasts, and raised in stainless steel. Lemon, creme brulee, mineral and floral notes inform the nose of this smooth-textured, spicy, nicely proportioned white. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Vina Sastre is a benchmark estate in Ribera del Duero. It is committed to organic

12 farming and biodynamic principles with the wines naturally made and bottled without fining or filtration. 89 points 2010 Uriondo Bizkaiko Txakolina, Spain The 2010 Urionda Txakolina is a blend of Hondarribi Zuri, Mune Muhatsa, and Txori Mahatsa, the latter portion barrel fermented in American oak. Baking spices, mineral, and citrus lead to a crisp, firm, savory Txakoli that will provide a perfect match for oysters and clams over the next months. 88 points 2010 Luberri Orlegy The 2010 Orlegy is an unoaked cuvee fermented with native yeasts. It is a very perfumed effort with plenty of spice and black fruit characteristics. Savory, ripe, and easygoing, this tasty effort will provide enjoyment for another 4-5 years. Luberri is located in El Ciego in the heart of Rioja Alavesa. The estate consists of 35 hectares of old vines. All three wines presented (100% Tempranillo) are excellent to outstanding values. 87 points 2010 Garciarevalo Casamaro Blanco Rueda, Castilla Leon, Spain The 2010 Casamaro Blanca is composed of 90% Verdejo and 10% Viura fermented in stainless steel. Baking spices, mineral, lychee, and apricot aromas inform the nose of a crisp, spicy, savory white with excellent balance and length. It is a very good value for drinking over the next 3 years. Garciarevalo is a family owned winery started in The estate consists of 40 hectares, much of it planted to vines over 100 years of age.

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