2011 Burgundy En Primeur Offer

Transcription

1 2011 Burgundy En Primeur Offer

2 We ve been so bombarded with hyperbole these last couple of years that it s difficult to pitch a vintage like If we, as merchants, talk it up too much we shall be accused of over-selling; if we downplay the merits of such a charming year, we shall be doing both you and the growers a disservice. Whilst 2011 is merely very good indeed, and not 2010, it does have many reasons to recommend itself to your cellar. Firstly, 2011 is a wonderfully Burgundian vintage: transparent in terms of varietal character and vineyard typicity, with the nuances of both grape and site beautifully observed through the wines. As Frédéric Lafarge says: The hallmark of the vintage is the purity of each terroir. Secondly it should be a profoundly useful and pleasurable vintage; staring at the stacked cases of 2008, 2009 and 2010 in your cellar won t make them mature any quicker. The 2011s should evolve beautifully before any of these recent vintages, all of which need more time for different reasons. The 2008s are tight and unyielding and will need at least five more years for a reasonable 1er cru. The 2009s need to shrug off some of their puppy fat and to stretch their legs; we re confident that they will become far more site-specific. And the broad-shouldered 2010s will need a good decade before they will be worth the price of entry. The 2011 vintage - apart from the very grandest wines - should all be approachable before these and, like the 2007s (which they only superficially resemble), will provide glorious medium-term drinking whilst other years mature. Low alcohol levels have delivered fine, fresh flavours, yet with sufficient stuffing to mature confidently over at least a decade or longer, enormous pleasure all the while. So what of the growing season? Well an unusually early, hot Spring meant the vines were already well advanced when I bumped into old Marc Colin on his tractor and he showed me the first flowers starting to open a full month ahead of normal. As it was, a cooler, wetter July and August slowed the maturation process and scrupulous hygiene had to be observed in the vineyards to avoid rot affecting the precocious crop. In the end, the sun-lit harvest was simple, everything was in the cellars by the time rains returned in the second week of September with unparalleled healthy fruit in the cellars. Fermentations occurred without mishap and malos were in most cases straightforward and early. An early harvest like this, born of grapes denied the complexity accrued from the daynight temperature swings of early autumn, can produce wines of superficial beauty; 2007 is a good example, absolutely charming Pinots but lacking any significant intellectual complexity. The 2011 reds are a step up. Much more depth and, tellingly, Price the in bond élévage case* has allowed the wines to gain substance and character. The balance and charm of an early harvest (2000 or 2007) but with more backbone and interest: 2001 or 2002 perhaps. Meanwhile, the whites are a hypothetical blend of the nervous high-pitched citrus of 2007 coupled with the more serious, richer, green stone fruit of There is a lot to like about Markets and prices? The move of capital from the safe shores of Bordeaux to the more esoteric fields of Burgundy has done nothing to soften prices. This coupled with growers wanting to spread costs of the disastrously short 2012 crop means 2011s prices are just about stable versus 2010, once currency changes are factored in. We have trimmed our own margins to keep prices unchanged to slightly lower, where possible. Is this a vintage to buy en primeur? Without 2009 and 2010 preceding it, we would all have been filling our boots with 2011 Burgundy. To repeat, it is a genuinely charming vintage and it s never a chore to own such delicious wines in the cellar! Unquestionably, there is a vast amount of new money heading into Burgundy and the top wines are in higher demand than ever before, particularly at en-primeur release prices. High-level Burgundy allocations are becoming harder and harder to obtain. With such a miniscule (high quality) 2012 crop on the horizon, this is not a vintage to lose a position if you wish to maintain a Burgundy cellar next year and beyond. It is at Premier and Grand Cru level that we recommend you focus your buying now. We have structured our offer accordingly, focusing on those domaines and cuvées that need to be secured en-primeur. With the market more fluid than ever, unwanted high quality stock can always be traded on, especially if purchased at the correct opening price. Whilst, logically, we will require balanced orders, certain generic and village wines can be purchased at a later stage. Additional 2011 offers will follow see page 13 throughout the year; estates where perhaps there is less squeeze and urgency to secure now or those that simply require the attention of an individual offer. We shall revisit Burgundy in the spring and re-taste at a number of estates, once the wines are in bottle. We are also planning to host a 2011 Burgundy tasting with finished bottled wines this autumn in London, and we look forward to seeing you all then.

3 C Ô T E - D E - N U I T S Jean-Marie Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin Having turned 40 (does that qualify him as a young superstar anymore?), Jean-Marie wanted to try his talented hand at making wine from other great sites. The price of land means it s unlikely that he will ever be able to afford new parcels of swanky Côte de Nuits vines, so with the 2011 vintage, he founded a micro-négociant business. As Jean-Marie explained We have been fortunate to find some fruit from friends and like-minded growers who work their vineyards with the same philosophy and diligence that we work ours. From the day we harvest the grapes the future wine will be treated like our adopted children; the details, the philosophy and the passion is the same as for the domaine wines. Circa 850 bottles of three new cuvées sit separately in a colder corner of the cellar, exactly the same élevage as his domaine wines, but tightly coiled and intriguingly slower in their evolution. The quality is as you d expect from Fourrier; impressively dense yet pure wines, light on their feet, with wonderful terroir definition. When my great-uncle bought Clos St Jacques in 1956, he could pay his debts with his first vintage, whereas today 50 years at least are necessary! J E A N-M A R I E FOU R R I E R Domaine 2011 Morey-St-Denis AC, Clos Solon 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin AC, Vieilles Vignes 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT 2011 Chambolle-Musigny AC 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT A dense, supple and beautifully smooth Clos Solon. And a complex, soil-driven Gevrey with atypical finesse. Three wonderfully silky village wines with seamless textures. Impeccable Fourrier. All from Gevrey 1er Cru Clos St Jacques 3 BOTTLES SOLD OUT 2011 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru 3 BOTTLES SOLD OUT A&B have been buying here for fifteen years now and since 2002 this estate has not missed a beat. Alas quantities remain pretty much unchanged on last year. I expect our longstanding buyers will continue to follow across the board and, if this is the case, I can only apologise to those trying to secure an allocation. Négociant 2011 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Echanges 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT A rarely seen premier cru (0.92ha), which sits tight to Beaux Bruns and shares similar characteristics. Generously fruited and opulent, yet with underlying tension which adds verve to the beautifully persistent finish. Old-vine fruit intensity. From Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT 2011 Echezeaux Grand Cru 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT Ancient Grand Cru vines and the magical Fourrier touch, how do you think they taste? Purchases here must be combined with equal quantities of the Chambolle Echanges above.

4 C Ô T E - D E - N U I T S Denis Bachelet, Gevrey-Chambertin The great Pinots of Burgundy are like oysters, they are best in months with an R'. DE N IS BAC H E L E T How s that for a quote? I could talk about harvest dates - like all the other merchants - but I thought this far more intriguing. It took me time, but actually Denis is absolutely right. I have often been disappointed tasting in situ during the heat of a Burgundian summer, and rarely do the best Pinots show with summer tuck. La finesse avant tout was another Denis quip. Every one of his 2011s wowed me with their purity and elegance. Wonderfully fragrant, graceful yet incisive (old-vine) berry fruit across the range. The 2011s have turned out much better than we had expected said Denis lots of colour and fruit, together with good acidity and souplesse Gevrey-Chambertin AC, Vieilles Vignes 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT Sourced from several plots of old vines in such vineyards as La Burie (planted 1920), Champerriers (1930s) and La Platière (1950). Supple, juicy and pure, almost satin tannins. Bachelet s village comes at a price but this has great substance for a village Gevrey; premier cru quality? Drink from Gevrey 1er Cru Corbeaux 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT 2011 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 3 BOTTLES SOLD OUT Ridiculously tiny quantities, please ask but don t expect. Better news is that Denis has recently purchased a small parcel of Gevrey 1er Cru Evocelles Denis Bachelet is a vigneron - with his tall son, Nicolas, now alongside him - who is in complete control of his vineyards and wines. If you usually follow these cult Pinots, please do not miss out on these seductive offerings BURGUNDY PRICES As expected, Burgundy prices have not fallen back with the 2011 vintage. If you include the 2012 vintage, the Burgundians have had three small crops in a row and lost the equivalent of an entire harvest over that period. The move of capital from the safe shores of Bordeaux to the more esoteric fields of Burgundy, especially by those speculating on Far East interest in the region, has done nothing to soften prices either. The law of supply and demand has rarely been so apparent.

5 C Ô T E - D E - N U I T S Domaine Maume, Gevrey-Chambertin You may remember that last year I broke the sad news of the demise of Domaine Maume, due to inheritance matters. Well, in April 2012, the 4.33 ha domaine was sold to a Canadian consortium, led by Pascal Marchand (see page 11), previously the winemaker at Domaine de Vougeraie and Comte Armand. The good news is that Bertrand Maume - affectionately known by us as Plastic - is still very much in attendance, working alongside Marchand s number two, Bernard Zito. Conversion to biodynamics is already underway. The bad news is that Marchand thinks the wines were previously terribly undervalued (possibly true, hence why we all bought them) and has raised prices accordingly. We have made our en primeur selection where we feel the quality/price rapport chez Maume still exists. His Bourgogne and Gevrey village will follow at a later stage, possibly some older vintages of both too. Thankfully these 2011s are as wild and eccentric as ever. Bertrand has always made sauvage Pinot, to fit his own vision of Gevrey. The wines are a voyage of discovery; we absolutely love them, as do many clients. I hope stylistically nothing changes too dramatically here, as a dampening down of Maume s individuality would be the ultimate shame Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St Jacques The Vieilles Vignes is a wonderful blend of nearly 90-year-old vines in Cherbaudes and 50-year-plus vines in Perrières. This has great depth of interest and a timeless quality to it. That old vine intensity simply adds dimension. Bertrand s 2011 Lavaux is a perfectly ripe expression of a cooler site. The nose is quite reserved - grudging hints of red berries, damp earth and subtle spice but the palate opens into a pure, racy and detailed mouthful. Really beautiful juice, dare I say even rather sophisticated. Both from 2017 till Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru M AGNUMS Ancient 70-year-old-plus vines offer a wonderful projection of the Mazis-Bas soil. I m certain these vines (one hectare) and quality of fruit are one of the major reasons Pascal Marchand acquired Maume. As always, this is an epic glass of soulful, dark meaty spice, the apogee of Mazis. I m certain it will evolve endlessly in the glass and the bottle. We weren t expecting the jump in value. I shall let you make your own mind up at the new price, which, I suppose, merely brings dear old atypical Maume into line with other domaines. Drink from 2020 till 2028 plus BURGUNDY ALLOCATIONS We shall do our utmost to satisfy everyone, but priority will be given to our clients who have consistently followed individual domaines, regardless of vintage. We will, of course, do our best to accommodate newer customers, but balanced and across the range orders will obviously be favoured.

6 C Ô T E - D E - N U I T S Taupenot-Merme, Morey-St-Denis I had been tracking the progress of Taupenot-Merme for some time - impressed by the serious reviews and various bottles drunk in restaurants - and then, coincidentally, Simon joined us. He had a direct association with Romain Taupenot having worked with the domaine previously. First some background. Romain and his sister, Virginie, are the 7th generation to tend the land and oversee production chez Taupenot. But it is since 1998, when Romain returned from a career in finance, that real progress has been made. With single-minded determination, Romain has transformed the quality here by reducing yields (via hard pruning), hand harvesting, rigorous selection of fruit which are all fully de-stemmed, and by switching to organic and, on certain plots, biodynamic farming. His philosophy is geared towards more transparency and silkier tannins. What struck me most was the wonderful purity of his wines, no hint of heaviness or overextraction. With thirteen hectares spread over 19 appellations - centred in Gevrey and Morey - each wine tasted completely unique to its own vineyard. Perhaps the style of the vintage exaggerates, but I found such terroir definition quite staggering. Romain s 2011s are among the finest we tasted and choosing a focused selection - from such a large and wonderful range of gems - was no easy task. We have gone with our favourites, however, and are thrilled to offer the following Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru I ve been searching for an Auxey red for a while now; I like such kinky off-the-beat appellations. This blend of the premier crus Duresses and Grand Champs is very refined, way beyond what you d expect. There s genuine nuance, with a light minerality and pristine quality to the scrumptious flavours of red cherry and spices. Gorgeous. Frankly, for the price and appellation, it is a no-brainer and highly recommended Gevrey-Chambertin AC Morey-St-Denis 1er Cru La Riotte SOLD OUT As one of the most graceful Morey premier crus (his cousin, Perrot-Minot, also produces) this is every bit as elegant aromatically as the stately Combe d Orveau below. High-toned Pinot nose with cool hints of stone and earth, also found on the supple and pure palate. Unusually fine tannins here, silky and refined, with bright acidity cutting the wine s density. A wonderfully complex finish completes the all-round satisfaction and smile Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Combe d Orveau SOLD OUT The geology here is the same as for Petits Musigny next door; certainly the piercing and expressive nose suggests grandeur. Lovely lift and a touch of Chambolle sweetness on the palate, intense 60-year-old red berries help. As with virtually all of the wines in the Taupenot 2011 range, this has a palpable feel of energy to it and you just feel like drinking this, in fact I did! Note that, despite the refinement, this is quite firm and will need some cellar time Mazoyeres-Chambertin Grand Cru 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT Romain is a significant owner of Charmes Chambertin, the finest part of which is bottled as Mazoyeres Chambertin. More dramatic on the nose than his Charmes, wild and exciting black fruits; I love it! More penetrating in the mouth too, impressive tension yet silky and seamless. The palate-saturating finish has impressive tannic clout and yet more energy. Drink from 2018 plus.

7 C Ô T E - D E - N U I T S Robert Groffier, Morey-St-Denis To many - ourselves included - this is one of the greatest domaines of the Côte d Or; La Revue du Vin de France very recently ranked it as top ten! Unfortunately such praise doesn t help Madame Groffier s pricing, which is as vicious as her tongue. I suppose when you see your secondary market prices soar, you desire a piece of the action, a new Mercedes for the driveway. Meanwhile, our own margins have plummeted, to try and hold prices at vaguely sensible levels for you; in 2011 there needs to be something in it for everyone. With seven hectares of wonderful vineyards, including just over a hectare of Amoureuses and just under a hectare of Bonnes Mares, the talented (and thankfully amiable!) Nicolas Groffier has some outstanding jewels to work with. His father and grandfather s - Serge and Robert - devotion to duty in the vines is legendary. As last year, 2010, Nicolas has fulfilled the potential of his raw materials to the maximum, picking late on 5 September. These are dense, suave and wonderfully energetic 2011s, analytically very similar to their own 2009s. Often lavishly flavoured, the Groffier wines need time to evolve, for the wood to integrate. When they do, you ll have a deep and fleshy yet wonderfully fresh and softedged Pinot to enjoy Bourgogne Rouge SOLD OUT The Groffier Bourgogne is from low-yielding old vines in Morey and Vougeot, and it shows. A splendid wine of village quality, which I cannot bear raising above the 200 barrier. Take advantage of my old-fashioned un-commercial attitude. Drink from Gevrey-Chambertin AC, Seuvrees SOLD OUT From vines opposite the Mazoyères part of Charmes-Chambertin. Silky and light on its feet, with nicely integrated acidity and sweet, seductive tannins. Downright delicious. From Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Hauts-Doix 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT 2011 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Sentiers 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT Haut-Doix is at the northern end of Amoureuses, Sentiers is just below Bonnes-Mares; the wines reflect their origins. The former is very stylish, a refined effort that has seductive depth and serious length. The latter has more wild black fruits, is more masculine, more opulent and has more spine perhaps. 50% whole bunch fermentation maintains freshness. Both from 2017 onwards Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Amoureuses 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT 2011 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT 2011 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT Not a bad trio? A precocious and totally expressive Amoureuses. Sweet and sleek in the mouth yet concentrated. Classic grace and vigour. A spine of acidity offers sparkle and grip too. Reminds me of the striking 2000, perhaps with an element of the 2002 vintage. Likewise, the Bonnes-Mares shows clearly both the floral and animal aspects of the cru. I cannot remember such terroir definition chez Groffier. A wine of great energy, sappy sucrosity, which finishes with firm but sweet tannins. A great Groffier grand cru. The Bèze is the sleeper, a cooler site, youthfully napping. Opulence and texture, but today I find more class, not to mention energy, in the previous. Don t fret, it s merely a phase.

8 C Ô T E - D E - N U I T S François Bertheau, Chambolle-Musigny For those of you who have been following our soap, the sprightly François and I are now the very best of friends. I sent him a case of the new vintage Tempier Rosé in the summer - which he adored and made him think of me, poor chap - and he returned the gesture with some 2008 Amoureuses and Bonnes Mares. A very fair exchange. This small 6.2 ha domaine is rapidly gaining in popularity with each vintage. Please note there isn t a lot of wine to go around; maybe that explains why François never tastes his own wines with me. He simply nods, thanks me for my praise, smiles and laughs at my unbelievably funny Franglais jokes. Why can t they all be like that? François seemingly allows the wines to make themselves. Very little racking, very little new wood (10-20% in total), each wine left to evolve slowly in barrel. I have tasted these 2011s on four occasions over the course of the past year, and, as elsewhere, they have gained significantly with élevage. For me, Chambolle is my favourite and most consistent village of the vintage. These ballerina 2011s possess wonderful finesse, high-toned aromatics and silky textures. As always, they will drink well immediately upon release but I m learning - like Fourrier - that they really benefit with time if you can be patient Chambolle-Musigny AC SOLD OUT 2011 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru SOLD OUT A hectare blend of Groseilles, Baudes, Noirots and Gruenchers. Restrained, delicate, mineral flavours. More tension than the sexier Charmes below, a slightly different expression. Regardless, an altogether lovely effort, fashioned in an understated style. From Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Charmes SOLD OUT Sexy, complex aromas of spicy red berries and minerals; so Chambolle. Packed with sappy, spicy, wonderfully concentrated fruit flavours, supple and very fresh. Finishes with ripe, fine tannins and excellent persistence. This probably merits four years of ageing, and will be best suited for drinking after I bet, however, it will be delicious from day one! 2011 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Amoureuses 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT Absolutely no chance of showing restraint here; an exuberant stunner of an Amoureuses! The sensual qualities of the Cru lean towards early drinking anyhow, no? 2011 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT I served François s 2007 Bonnes-Mares at my wife s birthday dinner, a noteworthy year. I felt, for once, that my long-suffering deserved some real muscle dressed in velvet! God, it was delectable, served from super-fine Zalto glasses. This will be the same, but better, more complex. While the Bertheau style is for ultra elegant and pure wines, there is plenty of pop and punch behind them. A L L E N M E A DOWS

9 C Ô T E - D E - N U I T S Ghislaine Barthod, Chambolle-Musigny My 2011s are silky, very precise and tres Pinotte. GH ISL A I N E BA RT HOD The charming Ghislaine was initially worried because of the early harvest (she started on 1st September) and low sugar levels, but is absolutely delighted with her results this year. With time in barrel the wines have blossomed, gaining both complexity and density. Additionally, the terroir of each Barthod vineyard is wonderfully transparent, from the lacy, fruit-rich Combottes to the more serious, meaner up-slope Cras. Unfortunately we once more have reduced quantities, almost unchanged on 2010 depending on which cuvée. Previous buyers will again have priority, sorry. It is a real shame, as Ghislaine - aided by her partner, Louis Boillot, and son Clément - has made terrific 2011s of definition and purity. Anyone who compares to her (albeit delicious) 2007s - because of drinking accessibility - is missing the plot Bourgogne Rouge SOLD OUT From old vines in the lieu-dit of Bons Bâtons, near Gilly. This is super-juicy in 2011, with a fine boned scaffold of tannin and very good length for this level. Drink Chambolle-Musigny AC 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT Raised in 25% new wood and assembled from 13 parcels, scattered all around the village. Fine and light, wonderfully Chambolle. Starts a little youthfully tight but melts beautifully in the mouth to leave a feather-light trace of Pinot fruit. Lovely. Drink Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Combottes 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT From 25 year old vines. The prettiest red fruit nose, very lifted and ethereal. Richer and more concentrated than the villages. Mouth-wateringly delicious. Drink Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Beaux Bruns 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT A little less dramatic than the Combottes, but with a great underlying salinity wrapped in silky red fruit. Drink Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Gruenchers 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT Showing a little reduction (very normal at this stage), which clears to show bright, red fruit. Supreme balance and plenty of stuffing, with a framework of sumptuous tannin surrounding the sappy fruit. Drink Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Cras 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT Tighter and vibrant from the higher, poorer soil. At present this is a study of texture and structure. Serious, dry and with wonderful weight. Powder-fine tannin. Will need some time. Drink 2020+

10 C Ô T E - D E - N U I T S UK Exclusivity Gérard Mugneret, Vosne-Romanée Domaine Gérard Mugneret (son of René, nephew of Dr Georges Mugneret) was one of the first estates I ever dealt with professionally in Burgundy; I drank the cracking 1997 Boudots the other evening. Lovely family, loyal almost to a fault I think. For fifteen years we have tried and failed to secure some of their wonderful Vosne Suchots and Brulées for the UK market. That was until this year, a measly six bottles of each; you know where those are going, sorry. You see they have this extraordinary private-client base, mainly Belgians and Swiss, who swing by the domaine each year and load their silver Beemers full of Mugneret magic. Around three quarters of their annual 6ha production is sold in this manner. So frustrating, but I sense and hope Pascal is slackening in our favour. Anyway, he is delighted with his 2011s. They are very balanced wines, which I m very happy with. They will drink very well, young or old. As with so many others, the wines have fleshed out beautifully with time in barrel, focused and terribly stylish offerings, brisk for the vintage. If I could only choose one red Burgundy estate to hang on to within our portfolio, it would probably be the dignified and unswerving Domaine Mugneret Bourgogne Passetoutgrains Ripe, round and utterly delicious! We ll try and ship this in time for the summer, as it ll make an ideal swigger. An excellent example of the genre Vosne-Romanée AC SOLD OUT A simply ravishing example; I might have picked this blind as coming from Chambolle. Juicy and intensely flavoured without showing any excess weight. Suave, sappy and penetrating, with a deep, energetic core of dark raspberry fruit. Long, mounting finish saturates the palate with red fruits and minerals. I could drink a wine like this seven nights a week. From Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Boudots 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT Possibly the jewel in the Mugneret crown, but as 2010, only half-pint measures again. In 2012 it will be even worse! 2011 Echezeaux, Grand Cru 3 BOTTLES SOLD OUT I don t like heavy wines, nor too ripe. I like wines with good acidity. PA SC A L M UGN E R E T

11 C Ô T E - D E - N U I T S Pascal Marchand, Nuits-St-Georges I was able to develop good relations with many growers over the years. All my suppliers are good farmers some are organic, others are heading that way but the farming is the key for me. PA SC A L M A RC H A N D Funny old world isn t it? Marchand consortium buys Maume, our Simon dealt with Marchand previously. All terribly cosy, a fatal attraction perhaps. Anyway, understandably, we ve met with Pascal a few times this year. He strikes me as a rogue, a mischievous and loveable one, and we all like those. 25 years of top winemaking experience at renowned Burgundy domaines Bruno Clair, Comte Armand and Vougeraie, and as a consultant in Chile, California, Canada and Australia. Yes, Pascal s been around, he wears the scars, knows his beans and, most importantly, where to source the finest Pinot Noir at the tidiest prices. I had no real intention of buying wine when I visited Pascal s micro-negociant cellars in Nuits. It was late and cold, I was tired and had an image of unforgiving and masculine wines. Being greeted by his young wife-to-be (err, not number one), the charming Amandine Terrier, lightened my disposition. Amandine worked at Vougeraie previously and is now in charge of Pascal s operation here; she impressed me. I selected ten appellations - from an extensive range - which I thought might interest. First up was a Fixin 1er Cru; it was bright, almost floral, with feather tannins (to be re-tasted this spring). Two hours later - you ve guessed - I had invested in the below. The wines have a wonderful feminine touch and are beautifully crafted, but there s still a rogue-ish element about them. How does Marchand source such grapes at these prices? Will this be a long-term loving business relationship? I ve decided not to worry nor analyse, and think we should just enjoy such guilty pleasures; I get the feeling Pascal would Vosne-Romanée AC A blend of three different lieux-dit - Haut Mazières, Ravioles and Jacqueline - one in the south, one in the middle section and one on the north side of the village. We ve taken a barrel out of the seven available, be rude not to at the price. Fresh, sweetly fruited, resonant Vosne village, which will offer simply delicious mid-term drinking. From Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Petits Monts 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT This is the first vintage for this wine (and the Beaux Monts below), and exclusive to us in the UK. 60-year-old vines from the lower part of the vineyard, near Richebourg. Exhilarating aromas of red cherry and raspberry. Complex and incredibly vibrant for the vintage, with tightly wound flavours. Extraordinary class, nothing like I was expecting. Drink from Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Beaux Monts 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT A more laid-back nose of wilder berries, minerals and spices, a hint of nicely-judged wood. Dense and sweet yet showing superb freshness and tension in the mouth. That lovely mineral and floral perfume carries effortlessly onto the very long finish, giving this wine a deceptively open quality. Frankly another Marchand beauty - I m gobsmacked and another A&B exclusive. Give it five years to digest the oak Pommard 1er Cru Epenots 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT This is what Pascal Marchand is known for; he made the splendid Armand Clos-des- Epeneaux for many years but I honestly don t remember Pommard of such style and grace. And the sensitive wood influence is subtle enough that it doesn t detract from the sense of purity either. A super-fine structure that delivers excellence without sacrificing intensity of flavour. Gorgeous clarity and super length. From Le Musigny Grand Cru 3 BOTTLES SOLD OUT 50% whole clusters, the rest destemmed by hand and then lightly crushed by foot; attention to detail, eh? Who else can garner a barrel of Musigny of such quality?

12 C Ô T E - D E - N U I T S Jean Chauvenet, Nuits-St-Georges Christophe Drag, son-in-law of Jean Chauvenet himself, produces a wonderful range of fruit-driven Nuits-St-Georges village and Premier Cru. The wines are dark and typically Nuits, but the tannins are suave and sophisticated. We have selected, in our opinion, the outstanding cuvée from the cellar in We shall offer more 2011 Chauvenet this year, but whilst the en primeur circus is in town, this is the one wine you need to secure now (please see our introduction) Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Vaucrains 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT This is the bad boy of the cellar; brooding, the poor, rockier soil of Vaucrains offering a more structured wine. But it s rich, balanced and very serious too. A wonderfully complex, long finish gives all the evidence one needs of its immense potential; Grand Cru potential. A yardstick example of all that is glorious about fine Nuits-St-Georges. Sit tight from 2018 plus. FORMATS AND PACKING SIZES A number of the wines in this offer are available in magnums and halves upon request, at a small supplement. Please ask at the time of ordering and we shall advise accordingly. Likewise, if you would prefer a six-bottle pack of any wine (as opposed to twelve) please ask and we shall do our best to accommodate you. All of the wines in this offer are priced as in-bond per 12 bottles, unless specified otherwise.

13 C Ô T E - D E - N U I T S Robert Chevillon, Nuits-St-Georges There is no real secret, as the market is very simple if your wines have a good quality then people come back! BE RT R A N D C H E V I L LON The track record of the Chevillon brothers is one of the most remarkable. We regularly have the good fortune to taste older bottles and, regardless of vintage, the wines are always more than convincing. The quality of the incredible old vine fruit here is too thrilling to ignore; Chevillon is one of Nuits-St-Georges, indeed Burgundy s, very best domaines. Our 2011 tasting with Bertrand Chevillon was as revealing as our later visit to Ghislaine Barthod in Chambolle; eight stunning 1er Crus in one deep dark cellar. A marvellous display of the diversity of Nuits-St-Georges, as the Chevillon vineyards stretch the whole appellation. Each 2011 cuvée had its own clear profile and identity, wines of harmony, ripe fruit and structure. This is a terribly classy stable Nuits-St-Georges AC, Vieilles Vignes Originates from la Charmotte and au Chouillet, both at the south end of the Vosne sector. This is a terrific village offering. The focus here is firmly on the roar of fruit so typical of Nuits; deep, generous, classic Pinot Noir. From Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Chaignots SOLD OUT 2011 Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Cailles 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT 2011 Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Vaucrains 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT 2011 Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Les Saint-Georges 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT Nuits-St-Georges does not officially have any grand cru vineyards, but we are convinced that Cailles, Vaucrains and Les Saint-Georges are all of Grand Cru quality. Price-wise, we are happy for the status quo not to change. Other Nuits growers must be terribly jealous that the Chevillon boys own all three! All are in that characteristic Chevillon style, bold and alluring. The Cailles is subtler and savoury, more muted young but it is profound; I personally take a case every year. The Vaucrains is denser and richer, the rockier soil offering a more structured wine, which is why it is always tasted here after the regal Les Saint-Georges. Three brilliant wines, yardstick examples of all that is glorious about fine red Burgundy. NON-PRIMEUR 2011 BURGUNDY OFFERS As stated in our offer introduction, we feel with certain estates there is less squeeze and urgency to secure right now, en primeur. They deserve the respect of their own individual offers, without getting lost against the all-star names and cuvées. Therefore during the year we shall make further exciting 2011 releases from the following domaines: Hervé Murat, Pierre Guillemot, Christophe Vaudoisey and Gachot- Monot. If any of these estates interest, please feel free to enquire now!

14 C Ô T E - D E - B E A U N E Follin-Arbelet, Aloxe-Corton Lying at the base of the Corton hill, Aloxe produces almost exclusively red wine, its solitary white wine being the revered Corton-Charlemagne. Thirty years ago, the wines from this famous appellation sold for the same price as Vosne-Romanée and Gevrey-Chambertin. Today, this sleepy village is often overlooked, Burgundy consumers drawn by seemingly more supple and sensual wines elsewhere. Amongst the small number of vignerons in the village is the mild-mannered Franck Follin. Franck studied geology and geophysics before coming to wine through his wife s family. His father-in-law, André Masson, was a descendant of the Arbelet family, who had been landowners in Aloxe since the 19th century. Initially (the early 90s), Franck worked as a mere employee, learning his trade. Now he runs the entire estate, organically farming around six and a half hectares, some of the most prestigious vineyards of the appellation. There is absolutely no compromise on quality here, all cellar work being based around minimum intervention, allowing these famous and varied terroirs to show themselves in the glass Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 6 BOTTLES Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru Vercots Dark and brooding, rich and complex, but energetic and vivid too. But it is not at all aggressive, lovely sumptuous tannins buried in creamy sloe fruit. A very impressive showing, upstaging its rival 1er Cru Clos du Chapître. With its very old vines and resultant structure, Vercots always needs to be cellared before being broached. Enjoy from Le Corton Grand Cru 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT From warm, south facing terroir in the Charlemagne sector generally used for white wines, which helps Franck produce such a harmonious bottle. Rich, liqueur fruit nose, framed by a veneer of the sweetest wood. The ripeness is obvious, making one believe this could be drunk now but don t be fooled, this has a long, bright future ahead and the best is yet to come. Such is the balance it will age stylishly; drink from I annotated my notes with three stars denoting a truly standout wine. Frank Follin is the new locomotive for Aloxe, the only outstanding vigneron within the village. With such wines of wonderful purity and finesse, he is beginning to change the perception of this underestimated and undervalued appellation. I cannot recommend his 2011s highly enough. My 2011s are correct and very harmonious. F R A NC K FOL L I N, NOV E M BE R 2012

15 C Ô T E - D E - B E A U N E Michel et Frédéric Lafarge, Volnay Michel and Frédéric Lafarge run one of the most iconic domaines in the whole of Burgundy. The family and their ancestors have been making wine in the village since at least the French Revolution, almost certainly earlier. There is a sense of family tradition and communal responsibility here. Year after year, they produce some of the most elegant and delicate expressions of Pinot Noir, true to their terroir. The wines desire and warrant time though; the wines can appear quite austere in their youth and are often misunderstood. The other week, I opened a bottle of 1994 Clos des Ducs, with zero expectation. For such a miserable vintage, it was a sheer delight. The hallmark of the vintage is the purity of each terroir. F R É DÉ R IC L A FA RGE 2011 Bourgogne Aligoté, Raisins Dorés SOLD OUT For the second year running a terrific Aligoté, just delightful. Under our terms, not really an en primeur wines but frankly it was so delicious. This will act like a stimulant, getting the conversation flowing and the appetite aroused. Fresh, no bitterness, beautifully balanced. Upon arrival, drink for the next 3 years Meursault AC, Vendanges Selectionnées From 55-year-old vines under Mitans. This is noticeably steelier and more mineral than the regular Meursault. It has real backbone. Spiced pear, hazelnut and white peach aromas introduce mouth-coating medium-bodied flavours that culminate in that minerally long finish. Really excellent. Previously Lafarge s Meursault VS has been a great hit, and I expect the same here. Drink Volnay AC, Vendanges Selectionnées SOLD OUT An almost Margaux nose! Concentrated, yes, but beautifully fine and detailed with lovely silky mouth-coating tannins, which melt into the long sappy finish. Very fine. Drink Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT 2011 Volnay 1er Cru Mitans 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT 2011 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT 2011 Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT Availability of the acclaimed and sought-after Lafarge Volnay 1er Crus is once more extremely limited. Existing buyers of these wines will have priority, sorry.

16 C Ô T E - D E - B E A U N E Antoine Jobard, Meursault Antoine Jobard is motoring, unquestionably one of Burgundy s shining young stars. If you enjoy top-class Chardonnay, you should buy his wines. With his own name on the label, he is completely his own man, his confidence oozing. He has even started making a few changes to Papa s very traditional practices and undoubtedly the wines have benefited; he is picking a bit earlier to reduce alcohol levels, does two to three hours of debourbage to eliminate reduction and bitterness, and has slightly shortened the élevage to maintain fruit and freshness. His 2011 Bourgogne - the first to be picked on 29th August - is of Meursault village quality, and the rest of the cellar follows the same upward trend. This is unquestionably one of the finest addresses in Meursault - outstanding quality - and, personally, I never begrudge paying for such class. I am beginning to think that Antoine may be even more gifted than his father François, which is a huge compliment. If he is, the wines will rival those of anyone in Meursault. A L L E N M E A DOWS 2011 Bourgogne Blanc Bourgogne Blanc M AGNUMS The sheer perfection of this wine vaults it over most more expensive bottlings of Meursault itself. Don t miss this, a stunning 2011 generic, of which we took two barrels. Drink from 2015 to Better still in magnums! 2011 Meursault AC, Barre Meursault AC, Barre M AGNUMS Meursault AC, Tillets SOLD OUT The Barre is from vines varying in age from 20 to 70 years; it shows. Supple, creamy, classic Meursault flavours of orange, spices and hazelnut. Very generous in the middle but tightens up nicely on the back end. Brilliant! The high Tillets is crisper, more biting. Tremendous material, and both are less eccentric than Dad used to make, unquestionably for the better. I d hold both for a couple years before pulling the cork Meursault 1er Cru Poruzots 6 BOTTLES From old vines planted in 1961 on the Genevrières side of the vineyard. Some say Poruzots is a bit rustic; well, quite frankly, I don't taste that at all. Orange, acacia flower and a smoky suggestion of silex on the nose. Juicy, spicy and energetic, a boastful balance of sweetness and fresh acidity with impressive rising length. From Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT 2011 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT The quality of raw material in each 1er Cru is simply exceptional, the top of the Meursault tree. A barrel of young-vine juice from Charmes du Bas has been included. Antoine feels that it brings vivacity and higher acidity, and reduces the alcohol level of the finished wine. A beautiful Charmes, although the Genevrières wins today. Less fruity perhaps but silky and glycerol, with orange, spice and stone flavours. I love the combination of cut and fleshiness. A palate-staining finish; what superb potential. Both from 2017.

17 C Ô T E - D E - B E A U N E Marc Colin, St-Aubin 2011 is a very charming vintage with great typicité. It will drink well throughout its life. DA M I E N COL I N A couple of years ago, we considered dropping this domaine, simply because of the conflict of interest with Pierre-Yves Colin. We felt it would be too problematic, too confusing, to sell the wines from both. I m delighted we relented. The quality here has unquestionably jumped; the wines are fresher and more expressive, there is more tension and minerality. As Damien explains we want to return to the style that was being made in Burgundy 15 to 20 years ago, which is a steelier, more precise and more terroir-driven style. Or perhaps they were motivated by the staggering success of their departed brother. This is a terrific set of 2011s; don t dally St-Aubin AC, la Fontenotte Always a favourite white Burgundy value. Real crunchy green apple bite tempered with honeysuckle. Vibrant flavours which possess excellent punch. Drink over next 5 years St-Aubin 1er Cru Charmois St-Aubin 1er Cru Montceau St-Aubin 1er Cru Remilly The Montceau has an evolved, softer yellow orchard fruit nose, which belies a formidably concentrated mid palate, a tight citrus vice. Damian Colin suggests keeping for 3 years before opening, which sounds right. The Charmois is also tightly wound, but the beautiful jasmine tea scented nose hints at the complexity to come. Impeccable balance suggests this will be a beauty with a couple of years. Finally Remilly, which is always a big step up. Mouthwatering mineral and green orchard fruit, masses of potential. Drink all from 2016 onwards Puligny-Montrachet AC, Enseignières Just blended and tasted from tank. A steely beast, very tight and with excellent length. Finishes with a touch of citrus pith, which reminds me of the formidable Drink from Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT From the Chassagne side, bordering Puligny. A wonderfully suave and harmonious wine, even at this very infant stage. Chewy and tactile yet almost magically round and smooth. Shows classic Montrachet mineral extract, as well as superb inner-palate energy. From Le Montrachet Grand Cru 3 BOTTLES SOLD OUT White Burgundy of compelling class and intensity. Juicy but extremely discreet, fully ripe but classically dry. This will need at least seven or eight years of cellaring to begin to deliver on its considerable potential.

18 C Ô T E - D E - B E A U N E Jean-Claude Bachelet et Fils, St-Aubin Jean-Claude Bachelet used to sell most of his fruit to négociants and those wines he bottled spent too long in barrel in our view, which sometimes made the whites too hefty. The domaine was shy to receive critics - maybe for that reason - and, consequently, remained relatively anonymous. To Jean-Claude s credit, he has handed over the reins and backed his young sons, Benoit and Jean-Baptiste. They now have complete responsibility, a new cuvérie and cellars, some outstanding holdings and masses of ambition. Élevage for the wines has been reduced to 18 months maximum, new oak is used very judiciously and the resultant wines are wonderfully pure and terroir-driven. A domaine to buy whilst prices remain reasonable St-Aubin 1er Cru Champlots A discreet touch of pain grillé sets off lemon zest and floral aromas that complement rich, punchy and nicely voluminous flavours. Bright acidity contributes to the impression of energy. A sophisticated and refined Saint-Aubin. From Puligny-Montrachet AC, Aubues Les Aubues is a lieu-dit within the Enseignières lieu dit; now then, who said Burgundy was confusing! A smoky, nutty, ripe wine with impressive texture and depth. This is the ripest of these Bachelet 2011s but with harmonious acidity framing the complex flavours. Delicious Chardonnay. Brothers Benoit and Jean-Baptiste Bachelet have returned to help their father Jean-Claude turn this once steady but unspectacular domaine into a rising star. A L L E N M E A DOWS CHABLIS To save conflict, Simon will make a separate 2011 Chablis Offer in March It will include Lavantureux and Sebastien Christophe s new vintage offerings. Additional white Burgundy releases will follow over the course of the year, Jean-Marie Chaland s Viré-Clessé and Guillemot s delectable Savigny Blanc for example. Please contact to register your interest.

19 C Ô T E - D E - B E A U N E UK Exclusivity Vincent Dancer, Chassagne-Montrachet It s not my business to divulge - and frankly I have no desire but, during the course of 2012, Vincent Dancer fell out with his longstanding and upstanding UK merchant. I was alerted to the situation by Pierre-Yves Colin, possibly weary of my own incessant wine demands. He had just returned from his annual holidays with the Dancer family, his winemaker buddy was distressed at the situation, and Pierre-Yves knew that I had always really admired the wines. Such matters are delicate however, so we decided to give Vincent space. Of course, in the meantime, Vincent was irate at the split, perhaps saw a looming cash shortage and decided to re-allocate his 2011s to other markets. So, when Simon and I eventually tasted with Vincent in the autumn, the stock cupboard was sadly bare except his largest cuvée below. Over time, we shall endeavour to re-build the Dancer UK market although, note, the estate is only just over 5ha in size. It is important that such stimulating Burgundies find our shores. But please don t go thinking these firstdivision Chardonnays are a replica of the PYCM style. No, Vincent s lower yields make for more muscle, more oomph, and luxuriant fruit covering that vital backbone of minerality. They are wilder, more rock n roll, less precise perhaps, but that s what makes them fascinating and exciting Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Romanée 6 BOTTLES SOLD OUT Vincent tries to interfere as little as possible with his wines. He does not perform battonage, nor does he fine or filter, and only wild yeasts are allowed in his cellar. His hands-off approach in the cellar is designed to allow each cuvée to show its individual characteristics. It most certainly does here; the vines in La Romanée are gaining age - planted in 1980 and and the strong chalky terroir shows through. Full and rich but with no shortage of energy, balanced and fresh. This concentrated, perfumed wine finishes long and juicy, with superb lift from its crushed stone character. Drink from 2015 onwards. It s a start; we hope you ll back us. It ll be tricky to increase in 2012 due to the miniscule crop but we hope to add additional Dancer wines, once Vincent has availability and his confidence in the market here is restored. I have noted the impressive upward trajectory of Dancer s wines but 2010 takes his performance to heights that I have not seen before. The purity of the wines is impressive and they are well worth your attention A L L E N M E A DOWS UK EXCLUSIVES For producers marked 'UK Exclusivity', A&B Vintners is the only official UK importer. It s true that you may see these wines listed on the websites of other UK merchants, however these will have been obtained through unofficial channels, the so-called 'grey market'; you may want to ask yourself how many hands the wine has passed through before it arrives in your cellar. Since 2009, all PYCM wines, imported by A&B Vintners, carry a back label.

20 C Ô T E - D E - B E A U N E UK Exclusivity Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet We released our original 2011 Colin-Morey offer in September and, as always, appetite was extremely high. Our remaining stock is listed below, at the original offer prices. To many, myself included, Pierre-Yves is the most impressive Côte d Or white Burgundy producer of this current era. Sure the likes of Coche-Dury, Roulot, Leflaive, Jobard, even his great friend, Vincent Dancer, produce some wondrous bottles. But, the cellar here circa thirty different cuvées offers an unrivalled palette of appellations. It takes a true master to draw the distinctive terroir out of each vineyard, whilst retaining such distinction and consistency, top to bottom, from vintage to vintage. In a word, his 2011 are beautiful. Initially from barrel, they were rather introspective. However, with a subsequent racking, the wines have blossomed. This is unlike any other previous Colin-Morey year. The wines are dense yet fine, succulent yet wonderfully focused. They capture the purity of the terroir and are balanced by graceful dancing acidity; they will age stylishly. Pierre-Yves has once more outperformed and we have a vintage of real appeal here; deftly-made beauties that are frankly irresistible Bourgogne Chardonnay Rully AC, les Cailloux Followers of this estate know the inside track; two remarkable values and obligatory purchases Saint-Aubin AC, le Banc Saint-Aubin 1er Cru la Chatenière SOLD OUT 2011 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru en Remilly SOLD OUT An exquisite range, which raises the St Aubin quality stakes further still; for around twentythree pounds a bottle - tax paid - you get a ridiculous amount of wine for your cash Chassagne-Montrachet AC, Ancéignières SOLD OUT 2011 Meursault AC, les Narvaux SOLD OUT 2011 Puligny-Montrachet AC, le Trézin SOLD OUT We say it every year, but no one makes a finer, more consistent range of village white Burgundy - Chassagne, Puligny, Meursault - than Pierre-Yves Colin Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly SOLD OUT 2011 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru les Champs Gains SOLD OUT En Remilly is perched on the hillside, the link between St-Aubin Remilly and Chevalier- Montrachet. It is one of Pierre-Yves s favourite Chassagne spots; there is amazing potential in vineyard. The more I taste, the more I agree; this 2011 is dazzling! The Champs Gains is classic Puligny-Montrachet: elegant, vibrant and gripping. It s hard to imagine a Chardonnay from outside the Côte d Or showing this much texture and density at these low alcohol levels.

21 To order or more information, please contact us Terms and Conditions The prices quoted are in-bond per case (12 x 75cl) excluding duty (currently 22.81) and vat. The wines will all be shipped by end November 2013 Our current delivery and storage terms are below. Delivery (ex vat): 1 4 cases London, Home Counties (postcode dependent). For 5cs or more delivered within these areas, there is no charge made. Regardless of number of cases, our minimum delivery charge to all other UK addresses is 20.00, excluding Scotland (please enquire). 11cs or more are charged at 2.50 case. In-bond transfers: 8.50 (ex vat) per transfer to Vinotheque or other LCB warehouses. Transfers to other bonded warehouses will be at the delivery rates above. We are happy to hold onto the stock whilst a consignment is built up, for a maximum of 3 months only. For longer periods, we offer a storage facility in our private client reserves, 8.50 per case ex VAT (inclusive of insurance to replacement value). Photography and design