TUSCANY Class 1 Tasting

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1 TUSCANY Class 1 Tasting TUSCANY: CLASS 1 TASTING Regional Wines and Foods GOALS AND MATERIALS Tasting Goals Taste a range of wines from Toscana. Compare regional and international varieties, paying special attention to the differences in flavor and structure, and also pair the wines with regional foods. The Four Wines Purchase four wines from Tuscany that retail in the $8-15 price range. Two wines should be white; one made from the Vernaccia grape and another from Chardonnay. The Vernaccia might be from San Gimignano, or both wines might be from the Toscana DO. The wines should be from the same vintage, or within a year or two of each other. The other two wines should be red; one based mainly on Sangiovese and the other on international grape varieties such as Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon. They may both be from the Toscana DO. They should be from the same vintage, or within a year or two of each other. Make sure to write down the name of each wine and how much it cost!! You will need this information during the tasting. Regional Foods Pecorino Toscano, sheep s milk cheese Tomato Crostini, toasted bread crisps with topping of chopped tomato, diced onion, olive oil, lemon juice and salt Green olives, preferably from Tuscany Cold meats such as capocollo, mortadella and prosciutto Supplies Removable stickers, an erasable felt-tip pen or wax pencil to label glasses. Four glasses per taster. Ideally, all the glasses for all the tasters should be the same. At the very least, each taster s four glasses should be the same. Spit cup, one for each taster Water for each taster Plain crackers 1

2 If you haven t already done so, you ll need to print out the Class 1 Tasting Materials: Class 1 Tasting Guide The step-by-step tutored tasting that you can share with friends. Print out one Tasting Guide for the whole group. Tasting Journal So each person can record their impressions, you ll need two Tasting Journal pages for each person in your tasting group. Use the red wine journal on page 2 or the multipurpose journal on page 3. Class 1 Tasting Mat To organize the wines at each place setting, you ll need one Tasting Mat for each person in your tasting group. You can print out one copy of the tasting for the group, but each taster should have his or her own copy of the tasting mat and the two tasting journal pages. Requires Adobe Acrobat Reader TASTING PROGRESSION You ll evaluate the two white wines, followed by the two reds. Then you ll see which wines you prefer with each of the foods. SET-UP Set Each Place 1. Put a tasting mat at each taster s place. 2. Give each taster a spit cup, water and plain crackers along with their tasting journal pages and a pen or pencil. Pour the Wines 1. Start by writing a letter on each of the wine labels: A for the Vernaccia, B for the Chardonnay, C for the Sangiovese-based red and D for the international grape-based red. 2. Use a stickie label or felt-tip pen to mark each taster s four glasses with the same letters that you used for the wines: A, B, C and D. The stickies or markings should be underneath the base of each glass, so the tasters can t see them. 3. Pour about 2-3 ounces of wine A into glass A and place the glass on its circle on the tasting mat. Repeat for the three remaining wines. 2

3 TUSCAN VALUES Just about anyone interested in wine knows that Italy has been going through a phenomenal renaissance in winemaking since the mid- 90s. However, almost all of the attention has been focused on high-priced, low-production wines. The well-made inexpensive wines have gone largely unnoticed, despite the incredible advances in winemaking and viticulture. Some might say that I, as much as anyone, am to blame for the oversight, but the high-ticket Italian wines of recent vintages have been so exciting and ever-changing that it has been difficult to focus on anything else. Granted, the majority of the inexpensive wines from Italy still have plenty of room for improvement. Only about half of the entire production of wine in Italy is actually sold in bottle, rather than in bulk, and even a large part of what is bottled would be considered flawed by serious wine lovers. Nonetheless, there are a growing number of clean, interesting reds and whites coming from just about every corner of Italy, wines to please even the most discerning palates. And in view of the uncertain economy and threatening global events, we can all appreciate the simple pleasure of an inexpensive, well-made wine with character. Most of these wines are simple, everyday vini that you can enjoy without worrying about how their purchase may affect your ability to meet your mortgage or some other pending financial obligation. You are not going to find Sassicaia, Ornellaia or some other top-scorers for $12 or less. That may be one of the more positive points about inexpensive reds and whites from Italy: They are made with food in mind, and can be drunk with gusto during a meal. By comparison, many lowpriced wines from other countries seem more contrived, almost artificial in character, having more in common with the laboratory than the kitchen. Sangiovese is clearly the most successful grape for making value reds. And no red grape from Italy seems to go better with every style of food than Sangiovese does, which is one reason why reds from Tuscany are so popular in America right now. Insights Allegra Antinori, daughter of famous Florentine vintner Piero Antinori, knows that her family s reputation is enhanced by high-priced super Tuscan reds such as Solaia and Tignanello. But she also prizes her family s good-value reds -- wines that prove you don t have to spend a fortune to get a good bottle of Tuscan wine. In order to achieve reliable quality in their value-priced Santa Cristina, for instance, the Antinoris dedicate a percentage of the wine from their best vineyards, including those that supply Solaia and Tignanello, to this large-production Sangiovese-Merlot blend. Seventy percent of the wine for Santa Cristina comes from our family vineyards at the moment, says Antinori. The rest is bought from other producers, cooperatives and merchants in the region. And we hope to increase that percentage in the future, for better quality control. We may, one day, assign a specific vineyard site to the production of Santa Cristina. At present, we use second-choice Sangiovese grapes from our vineyards, from a number of our estates in Tuscany. Antinori s Santa Cristina is a prime example of Tuscany s ability to make good quality wines with large case productions and affordable prices. Made to be drunk young, Santa Cristina consistently scores around 83 points, or good, in Wine Spectator blind tastings and sells for about $10 in the U.S. retail market. It s an impressive achievement, especially considering the wine s production figure of 350,000 cases per year. Finding enough high quality wine for a blend such as Santa Cristina presents its own challenges. According to Tuscan enologist Franco Bernabei, It s an arduous task. To select the best ingredients and blend the right formula, you have to be very practical and analytical. 3

4 Bernabei works for some of the best-known smaller producers in Tuscany, including Fontodi and Felsina in Chianti Classico and Selvapiana in Chianti Rufina. But he also takes great pride in making large production wines, such as Monte Antico Toscana, a project he has worked on since its conception, in 1987, in collaboration with U.S. wine importers Neil and Maria Empson. Monte Antico is the product of a negociant-style operation, in which grapes, as well as readymade wines, are supplied by a number of local producers. Bernabei spends a great deal of time analyzing potential wines for the blend, through both chemical analysis and good old-fashioned taste tests. We have to go through a lot of wine to find some good enough for Monte Antico, says the enologist. In some years, we may have to put aside a large percentage of what we bought since the quality is not good enough. Examples Below is a selection of some of the best value wines from Tuscany, listed in James Suckling s order of preference according to his tastings over the last five years. As a rule, these wines are made to be drunk young, within two or three years of the vintage date, so look for the most recent vintage available. Monte Antico Toscana This negociant-style red, fruit of the Empson-Bernabei collaboration, offers a traditional taste of Tuscany at a very good price. It s made of Sangiovese grapes and wines, originating for the most part in the coastal area of Maremma and blended and aged in rented facilities in Pisa. Antinori Sangiovese-Merlot Toscana Santa Cristina Fresh and fruity, this wine is made from grapes from the company s substantial holdings in Tuscany and selected wines bought from producers in the region, including several good local cooperatives. It s a blend of 90 percent Sangiovese and 10 percent Merlot. Fattoria dei Barbi Toscana Brusco dei Barbi This delicious pure Sangiovese comes entirely from vineyards owned by the historic Montalcino family Cinelli-Colombini. It s been on the scene since the late 1960s and has always been a favorite in the U.S. market. Castello Banfi Toscana Centine Centine started life in 1982 as a Rosso di Montalcino; with the 1997 vintage, it became the mini super Tuscan it is today. It s a Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blend from the Banfi estate in Montalcino, supplemented by wine and grapes bought from local producers and cooperatives. 4

5 Ruffino Chardonnay Toscana Libaio A fresh and fruity, no-nonsense Chardonnay, the 2001 also contains 10 percent Pinot Grigio -- from one of Tuscany s historic vintners. Its grapes come mainly from Ruffino s Solatia and Castelvecchio di Libaio estates near San Gimignano. Rocca delle Macie Sangiovese Toscana Rubizzo An estate-grown Sangiovese, with just a splash of Merlot, Rubizzo has been around for 20 years; 50 percent of the production currently goes to the United States. Rubizzo means tippler s blush, referring, according to the winery, to the color of the newly vinified wine -- and not to any effect this light and fruity red might have on the consumer. Avignonesi Toscana Rosso A tasty Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blend from Avignonesi s estates in the Cortona area, in southern Tuscany. It s aged for a year in oak barrels. Capezzana Barco Reale Conte Contini Bonacossi Barco Reale is to Carmignano what Rosso di Montalcino is to Brunello -- the junior version of the principal DOCG red. This blend of 70 percent Sangiovese, 20 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 10 percent Canaiolo comes from one of Carmignano s oldest estates. SEE >> Color & Intensity The first step is to look at each of the two white wines. Compare their color and intensity. COLOR Pick up your both whites, one glass in each hand. Tilt the glasses at a 45-degree angle and compare the color and intensity of the wines. What color is each wine? Are they both the same color? Does one have a greenish tinge? Is one more straw-colored and another more gold? Intensity Which wine is the darkest? Which is the palest? Based on intensity, which wine do you think will have the fullest body? 5

6 SNIFF >> Aroma Identification and Intensity Swirl and sniff each of the white wines to identify and compare their aromas. SWIRL AND SNIFF YOUR VERNACCIA Identity What aromas can you identify? Do any of the aromas listed on your tasting checklist seem to be in this wine? Intensity Are the aromas intense? Do they jump out of the glass? Or are they faint? SWIRL AND SNIFF YOUR CHARDONNAY Identity Can you identify any of the aromas? Do the aromas remind you of really ripe, juicy fruit? Or under-ripe, slightly green fruit? Are all the aromas fru i t y, or can you pick up any vanilla or toasty oak aromas from oak barrels? Can you find any of Chardonnay s typical aromas and flavors in this wine? Intensity Are the aromas intense? Do they jump out of the glass? Or are they faint? COMPARE THE WINES AROMAS Intensity Which is the most intensely aromatic wine? And the least? Identity Which wine has the ripest fruit aromas? The most herbal aromas? Which wine s aromas do you like the most? The least? And why? 6

7 Preference The wine with the most forward fruit aromas may immediately catch your attention, like a shout, but a more subtle wine can be more elegant and intriguing, like a whisper. Based on the aromas, which wine is your favorite? And your least favorite? Mark your observations on your tasting checklist. SIP >> Body, Flavor, Taste, Mouthfeel & Finish Body Take a small sip of the Vernaccia. Is it full? Or is it fairly light? Flavor Swish the wine around in your mouth and remember that flavors in the mouth are often same the as aromas on the nose. Do you detect any additional flavors? Underline the flavors on your tasting checklist. Taste Your tongue picks up the taste while the wine is in your mouth. Is there any sugar in the Vernaccia? Or is it just ripe fruit flavors that you interpret as being sweet? One way to test is to hold your nose while you take a sip. This prevents flavors from traveling into your nasal passages and makes you focus on the tastes. Mouthfeel The mouthfeel related to taste often becomes more apparent after you spit or swallow. Does the wine leave your mouth feeling clean and refreshed? These sensations indicate high levels of acidity. Or does the wine seem flabby, indicating low acidity? 7

8 Finish After spitting or swallowing... Do the flavors linger in your mouth? Or do they disappear immediately? Repeat the SIP process with your Chardonnay. At each step, note how the Chardonnay compares with the Vernaccia. Which wine has more acidity? Which wine has a fuller body? SUMMARIZE >> Quality and Personal Preference Compare the Vernaccia and the Chardonnay in terms of quality and personal preference. Quality Is the wine straightforward? Or complex, with lots of aromas and flavors? Would it hold your interest for a second glass? Are the aromas and flavors appealing? Are the components--fruit, sweetness and acidity--in balance? Or does one of them jump out at you? Is the finish short or long? Circle your conclusions on your tasting checklist. Personal Preference Do you like the wine? Are the aromas and flavors appealing to you? Would you drink a second glass? Would you recommend this wine to a friend? Circle your reactions on your tasting checklist. OPTIONAL: TEST YOUR SENSES Now that you ve carefully examined the two white wines, it s time to see if you can identify them blind. (The glasses should still be marked A and B.) 1. Shuffle your glasses so you don t know which one is which. 2. Go back through your notes and see if you can identify the wine in each glass. SEE >> Color & Intensity The first step is to look at each of the two red wines. Compare their color and intensity. 8

9 COLOR Pick up your Sangiovese and the international varietal, one glass in each hand. Tilt the glasses at a 45-degree angle and compare the color and intensity of the wines. What color is each wine? Are they both the same color? Does one have a purplish tinge? Is another one closer to ruby red? Intensity Which wine is the darkest and densest? When you hold the wine in front of your tasting sheet, is the color so intense and saturated that you cannot read the tasting sheet through the wine? Which wine is the palest and the easiest to read through? Circle your observations on your tasting journal page. Based on color and intensity, which seems to have the most extract? Which do you think will have the fullest body? Cues Frequently, the more intense the color, the fuller the body. SNIFF >> Aroma Identification and Intensity Swirl and sniff each of the red wines to identify and compare their aromas. SWIRL AND SNIFF YOUR WINES Intensity Are the aromas intense? Do they jump out of the glass? Or are they faint? Identity What aromas can you identify in each wine? Can you find any of the typical aromas and flavors associated with Cabernet Sauvignon or Sangiovese? Are all the aromas fruity? Do you pick up any vanilla or toasty oak aromas from oak barrels? 9

10 COMPARE THE WINES AROMAS Intensity Which is the most intensely aromatic wine? And the least? Identity Which wine has the ripest fruit aromas? Which wine s aromas do you like the most? The least? And why? Preference The wine with the most forward fruit aromas may immediately catch your attention, like a shout, but a more subtle wine can be more elegant and intriguing, like a whisper. Based on the aromas, which wine is your favorite? And your least favorite? It will be interesting to see if your ranking remains the same at the end of the tasting. Mark your observations on your tasting checklist. Pricing Cues Frequently, the more complex the aroma, the more expensive the wine. On the other hand, more expensive wines can take longer to open up. When the cork is first pulled, the aromas may be a little shy. Often, the more sweet oak aroma, the more expensive the wine. This assumes that the oak is in balance with the fruit, that the oak doesn t overpower the wine. SIP >> Body, Flavor, Taste, Mouthfeel and Finish Complete the entire sip evaluation for the Sangiovese-based wine before moving on to the international varietal-based wine. Body Take a sip of wine -- just enough to coat the insides of your mouth. Is the wine thick or heavy in your mouth? Or is it fairly light? 10

11 Flavor Swish the wine around in your mouth. The flavors in the mouth are often the same as the aromas on the nose. Are the flavors the same as the aromas? Do you detect any additional flavors? Do you get any vanilla or toasty oak flavors from barrels? Underline the flavors on your tasting checklist. You can also review the flavors associated with Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and oak barrels. Taste Your tongue picks up the taste while the wine is in your mouth. Is the wine sweet due to residual sugar or because it has ripe fruit flavors? Do you detect any bitterness from the tannins? Mouthfeel The mouthfeel related to taste often becomes more apparent after you spit or swallow. Acidity Does the wine s acidity make your mouth pucker? Tannin How does your mouth feel after spitting or swallowing the wine? Is there a slight drying sensation from the tannin? Did the wine seem silky or smooth? This indicates lower levels of tannin. Or, does your mouth feel completely dried out, like tanned leather? Did the wine seem rough, like wool? These are the signals that the wine has higher levels of tannin. Texture Does the texture draw attention to itself? Is it velvety or silky? Or is it as rough as wool? 11

12 Finish After spitting or swallowing Do the flavors linger in your mouth? Or do they disappear immediately? COMPARE THE WINES Which wine has the Fuller body? And the lighter? More complex flavors? Bigger tannins? Smoother tannins? Longer finish? Most notable textural quality? Cues At this price level, Sangiovese will generally have Less color intensity Lighter tannins More delicacy compared to Cabernet Sauvignon. SUMMARIZE >> Quality and Personal Preference Rank the four wines in terms of quality and personal preference. Quality Is the wine straightforward? Or complex, with lots of aromas and flavors? Would it hold your interest for a second glass? Are the aromas and flavors appealing? Are the components--fruit, sweetness and acidity--in balance? Or does one of them jump out at you? Is the finish short or long? Circle your conclusions on your tasting checklist. 12

13 Personal Preference Do you like the wine? Are the aromas and flavors appealing to you? Would you drink a second glass? Would you recommend this wine to a friend? Circle your reactions on your tasting checklist. OPTIONAL: TEST YOUR SENSES Now that you ve carefully examined the two red wines, it s time to see if you can identify them blind. (The glasses should still be marked C and D.) 1. Shuffle your glasses so you don t know which one is which. 2. Go back through your notes and see if you can identify the wine in each glass. FOOD AND WINE PAIRING Regional Foods You ll need the following regional foods: Pecorino Toscano preferably aged and firm style - Produced since the Etruscans began raising sheep in Tuscany, this sheep s milk cheese was traditionally called Cacio Marzolino or Cheese of March because it was usually made in the spring, starting in March. - The cheese is aromatic and savory, yet fairly mild. It is made in two styles: - The fresco or fresh style is soft and is usually eaten at the table. - With age, the cheese develops a nuttiness. It becomes firmer and sharper, perfect for grating or serving in thin flakes, though it never becomes as salty or hard as the more popular Pecorino Romano. Tomato Crostini - Toasted bread crisps with topping of chopped tomato, diced onion, olive oil, lemon juice and salt Green Olives - Preferably from Tuscany Salumi - Cold meats such as capocollo, mortadella and prosciutto 13

14 Wine with Pecorino 1. Take a sip of the Vernaccia, then spit or swallow, remembering how the wine tastes. 2. Now take a bite of the Pecorino. 3. Immediately after swallowing the cheese, take another sip of Vernaccia. - How does the Vernaccia taste now? - Does the wine taste any different? Better? The same? Not as good? - Does the wine stand up to the cheese, or does the cheese make the wine taste flat or dull? - Repeat the tasting with each of the wines. - Firm but not too salty cheeses tend to pair well with both white and red wines. - Does this seem to be the case? - Which wine do you prefer with the cheese? Wine with Tomato Crostini 1. Take a sip of the Vernaccia, then spit or swallow. 2. Now take a bite of the crostini. 3. Immediately after swallowing, take another sip of Vernaccia. - How does the Vernaccia taste now? - Does it taste tart and thin -or- rich and fruity? Acidity in food can increase the perception of acidity in wine, making the wine seem tarter or thinner. For this reason, highly acidic foods can be tough to pair with wine. At the same time a wine needs to have sufficient acidity to stand up to food acidity. A low-acid wine paired with a high-acid food can become flabby and dull. An alternative is to cut the acidity of the food with a little fat by adding some olive oil or sausage to a tomato sauce. - Repeat the tasting with each of the wines. - Which wine do you prefer with the tomato crostini? 14

15 Wine with Green Olives 1. Sip your Vernaccia. 2. Now eat an olive. 3. After swallowing the olive, take another sip of Vernaccia. - How does the Vernaccia taste now? - Does the wine taste more rich and fruity -or- does it seem tart? - Does the wine leave your mouth feeling clean and refreshed after the fatty cheese? - Repeat the tasting with each of the wines. Olives offer an interesting blend of fat and acidity. Is your olive richer or more acidic? How does this affect your wine? Which wine do you prefer with the olive? Wine with Salumi 1. Sip the Vernaccia. 2. Now take a bite of the salumi. 3. Immediately after swallowing a piece of salumi, take another sip of Vernaccia. - How does the Vernaccia taste now? - Does the wine taste fuller and rounder -or- does it taste more acidic? - Repeat the tasting with each of the wines. Salumi contains fats and proteins and has a creamy texture. Acidity and tannins both cut through the fat. If you had a creamy, rich wine without sufficient acidity, the overall effect might be overly heavy and thick. - Which white has the most acidity? Which do you prefer with the salumi? - Which red has the most acidity? Which do you prefer with the salumi? We hope you ve enjoyed the tasting. If you have any questions, please Ask the Professor. 15

The first step is to look at each of the three wines. Compare their color and intensity.

The first step is to look at each of the three wines. Compare their color and intensity. THE THREE WINES 1. Riesling from Alsace in France or from New Zealand, Austria or a dry style from Germany 2. Sauvignon Blanc from California, made with minimal or no oak 3. Chardonnay from California