Velm-Götzendorf, Weinviertel, Austria Press dossier

Transcription

1 Velm-Götzendorf, Weinviertel, Austria Press dossier

2 BIOWEINGUT JOHANNES ZILLINGER Velm-Götzendorf, Wine made of organic grown grapes is a trend increasingly important and demanded. The winery of Johannes Zillinger s family is one of those who can count on the biggest experience in this sector. His father Hans turned to organic winegrowing already in the 1980es and is one of its pioneers in Austria. The soils and the vines have been vitalized since 30 years and are accordingly robust. In 2013 Johannes Zillinger breaks fresh ground to express the vitality and aromatic power of his grapes even better in his wines. The assortment was newly structured and the wines were given more freedom during maturing. New or old methods are applied. Johannes Zillinger can afford this because no less than perfect grapes are used the basis for all good natural wines. His wines show particular individuality and character with animating drinkability. A new leaf has been turned over in the 350 year long history of the winery. 2

3 A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE REGION In the easterly Weinviertel region wine was grown by Illyrians and Celts. The settlement of Velm-Götzendorf was founded by the monastery of Passau in Bavaria one of the most crucial battles in history took place halfway between the neighbouring villages of Dürnkrut and Jedenspeigen. The Habsburg prince Rudolf I beat the margrave of Moravia, Ottokar Przemysl and wins the dominance over middle europe for his family. There is a legend saying that Ottokar who was killed in the battle encamped in Götzendorf. The oldest vineyard, Steinthal, was first mentioned in a document in The sandstones from the quarry were used for buliding the St. Stephens cathedral in Vienna winegrowing was a crucial factor in the region. The extended tunnels in the Kellerberg which today are used by the Zillinger family among others as wine cellars provided refuge during times of war. In 1673 David Zillinger founded the winery. Until the mid-1980es viticulture has been a second occupation for many families who had mixed farms. Also the Zillinger family focussed succesfully on pig breeding the farm was conversed to organic production and since 1994 it is a pure winery. 3

4 THE ZILLINGER FAMILY Johannes *1980 After a traineeship at Fritz Wieninger s winery in Vienna ( ) and the subsequent Wine Management course in Krems ( ) Johannes decided definitely for the profession as a vintner. In 2000 he vinified his first own red wine made of the fungus-resistant grapes (PIWI) Regent, Rösler and Cabernet Sauvignon. From 2002 on he took the responsibility for the red wine vinification, in 2005 for the whole vinification. Since 2012 Johannes is managing director of the winery. He prefers wines with individuality, not mainstream products. He loves either regional food or Asian cookshops, absolutely simple. I have a passion for all things simple and minimalistic! Hans *1952 Johannes father, the pioneer of organic winegrowing passionately works the vineyards. The current boom of organic farming delights him, especially the fact that many young farmers consult me and about half of all agricultural area of Velm-Götzendorf is now trated organically. Christine *1958 Johannes mother manages administration and the office but also insists on helping in the vineyards. 4

5 Claudia *1986 Johannes wife takes care of home and family and is a support in every measure. Noah *2010 und Miriam *2012 Claudia s and Johannes kids. Andrea und Eva Johannes sisters have taken other occupations but are always pleased to help in the winery. 5

6 PHILOSOPHY Hans Zillinger is one of the forerunners of organic winegrowing in Austria. His own father was already looking for old grape varities and clones because they are more robust and need less tending. Maybe they don t look that pretty in the vineyards but they tolerate a lot! The orientation to organic methods was a consequence of the experience gained with pig breeding. Hans Zillinger: Our animals have been highly decorated but they were often sick, also. And they developed increasing resistences against the usual treatments, especially antibiotics. Several times e had to slaughter all animals because we haven t been able to cure them. One time in the early 1980es our piglets suffered from a obstinate scours disease and no conventional methods worked anymore my father told me: In the past we used to treat the animals with vinegar solution in this case! which I did and it helped, they convalesced without any chemicals or synthetics. This caused me to change my thinking. I kept my ears open and came in touch with the organic farming scene in Germany. In 1984 it was clear to me that I want to start applying organic methods. Because it is nearly impossible for a small family run farm to look after several sectors at a time we completely focussed on winegrowing in The crucial factor for his love for wine was the St. Laurent vineyard in the Steinthal site which today is more than 100 years old. Hans Zillinger: Regardless of the year this vineyard always gave healthy and ripe grapes. In fact few but very good grapes. This insight was the inital spark to notably take care of this vineyard not to treat them as high-performance plants as it was common at that time. Today Johannes is able to work on soils which since 30 years have permanently improved and with vines which are robust and vital. Together with his philosophy of minimal treatment in the cellar this results in long living and multi-layered wines. The logical next step on this development is joining the Demeter association who has the most rigorous outlines for organic farming. Therefore since 2013 no additionally purchased grapes are processed; all Zillinger wines come from their own vineyards. To get enough herbs for the treatments with infusions and extracts a special garden has been laid out in which 50 different herbs are growing. Johannes Zillinger: Most of all we need thyme because it has herbicid and fungicid effects, but also peppergrass and citrus thyme. From this project I expect a lot for our greenings and plant protection. Also the Zillingers are working with fungus-resistant varieties (PIWI) like Rösler, Cabernet blanc and Muscaris. Johannes Zillinger: These varieties have more potential than only giving simple qualities. Maybe not for super-premium wines but definitely valuable. These are different wines, not to substitute but to complement. 6

7 THE VINEYARDS AND THEIR SOILS The vineyards are situated along the hills north (loess and sandstone) and south (loam) of Velm-Götzendorf. All vineyards have individual greening. For more than 5 years no animal fertilizer has been used. All ingredients for soil composition are derived in the region to avoid long transport routes. Haidthal: Soil: Sandstone Inclined towards south 4 ha (10 acres) with 25 year old Riesling vines. The main site of the winery. Kellerberg - Steinthal: Named after a sandstone quarry which, among others gave material for the St. Stephans cathedral in Vienna. The sub-site Steinthal today cannot be found in the maps, it was consoldated with other plots to the Kellerberg site. St. Laurent and Gruner Veltliner. Lissen: Soil: calcareous loam and sand Inclined towards north-east 5 ha (12,5 acres), planted with the aromatic varieties. Hohes Eck (Hoheneck) Soil: reddish ferrous loam, sand and fist-sized pieces of limestone. 5 ha (12,5 acres); the older part is planted with Gruener Veltliner, Pinot blanc and Welschriesling, the younger one with Gruener Veltliner, Muscaris and Gelber Muskateller. Due to the northerly orientation Hoheneck has a promising future because it is cooler and harvest starts 1 2 weeks later than in any other vineyard. The wines show the same physiological ripeness but have less alcohol. In Haiden: Soil: light sandy gravelly soil. A warm site near Ollersdorf, home to the red wines of the estate. The warm air flow rising from the Marchfeld plain in the south gives the wines full ripeness. 7

8 IN THE CELLAR Interventions in the cellar have been significantly reduced since Johannes Zillinger: I have good control over harvest and grape selection so only really healthy grapes enter the cellar. The wines are not as fruit driven as before but more distinguishable. It is no use to make distictions in the vineyard if you treat everything the same in the cellar. All grapes are picked manually. All wines of the 2013 vintage have been fermented spontaneously. The red wines are macerated through submerging the mash and stay in wooden barrels for at least one year. The barrels are mainly used ones because wood driven wines do not stand for our area. I take predominantly acacia wood because it supports the fruit. As we don t have extremely powerful red wines we don t need intenive oak tannins. All white wines stay on the lees which is stirred up frm time to time ( Batonnage ) Johannes bought 3 amphorae with 1000 litre volume each. In it Pinot Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Roesler are fermented which gives the wines a stronger tannin structure and better stability. The amphorae and the wooden barrels are stored in the 600 year old earth cellar beneath the Kellerberg. 8

9 CLIMATE The climate in eastern Weinviertel is characterised by warm summers and cold winters. To the west the Matzener Hügelland (hills) with its thick forests shield Velm- Götzendorf from west wind and hailstorms. To the east the close river March takes influence of the weather and gives a special continental micro-climate. Summers are very warm, winters are extremely cold with temperatures as low as -20 C (-4 F) which allows to pick ice wine nearly every year. The area is very arid with 400l/m 2 per year. Soils warm up quickly which results in early budding one week earlier than in the surrounding winegrowing areas. This determines the danger of late frost which afflict the vineyards regularly since the year As winters become rather more mild this danger has even increased. And, to make matters worse, in Haidthal there aren t closed vineyards anymore which means cold air can affect it worse. Harvest starts mid-september when temperatures decline quickly and noticeable and lasts until mid-october. 9

10 THE MOST IMPORTANT GRAPE VARIETIES Gruener Veltliner Importance, conditions: The most important grape variety in Austria. Gruener Veltliner achieved worldwide awareness and popularity at the end of the last century. It is a fertile variety and therefore requires yield regulation. It grows especially well in deep loess soils, does not like dryness, is sensitive during flowering, and is susceptible to peronospora, Roter Brenner (Pseudopezicula tracheiphila) and chlorosis. Wine: Grüner Veltliner delivers all quality levels - from light, acidity-toned wines to the highly ripe Prädikat wines. The site and the yield are crucial to the quality. Spicy, peppery versions are preferred; so are versions yielding stone fruit notes. Sauvignon Blanc Importance, conditions: Sauvignon blanc has its origin in the Loire-valley in France and was introduced in Austria in the 19th century, then known as Muskat-Sylvaner. Growth doubled between 1999 to 2009 to about Hectares. Sauvignon Blanc needs good sites with rather meager soils and requires leaf maintenance because its aromatic substances are very photosensitive. It is prone to peronospora and oidium. Wine: Grown worldwide, this variety has a characteristic bouquet, which can be intrusively unripe and grassy when the grapes are not fully ripe. When the grapes have good ripeness, they develop complex aromas of black currants, gooseberries and tropical fruit. The wines develop according to the level of maturity from discreet to very complex. The complex versions have wonderful ageing potential especially from malolactic fermentation and barrique maturation. When the grapes are very ripe, the complex aromas retreat and a powerful, spicy wine unfolds. Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) Importance, conditions: Coming from Burgundy Pinot Blanc is a mutation of Pinot Gris. Growth level in Austria remains unchanged at ha. In the vineyard, it demands quite a lot from soil and site and it is prone to Botrytis. Wine: Young wines have a blossomy expression and piquant acidity, while mature versions tend to develop bread and nut flavours. Maturation goes slowly and the highest quality is achieved after longer bottle ageing. 10

11 Riesling Importance, conditions: Riesling is a world-known variety. It has great prominence and importance in wine-growing regions rich in weathered primary rock soils. The late ripening grape is highly demanding in the vineyards, and is sensitive to grape stalk necrosis, stalk rot and grape Botrytis. The Botrytis is mainly undesirable - except for noble rot, for Auslese wines. Wine: Young Riesling wines exude charming fruitiness and flavour, and can develop into great and complex wines through ageing. For these, notes of stone fruit are dominant and include peach, apricot and exotic fruits. Riesling ripens slowly and reaches the highest quality as aged wines with rose-like scent. When the late harvest grapes are infected with noble rot, then special wines are the result Auslesen and Beerenauslesen styles with outstanding quality. Muskateller Importance, conditions: It is one of the oldest grape varieties and yields different types. Between 1999 and 2009, its vineyard coverage increased from 143 ha to 527 ha. The late ripening variety makes little demands on the soil, but in the vineyard, it can be difficult and challenging. It is rot-prone and its yield is unpredictable because of a sensitive flowering phase. Also, it needs warm, airy sites; the variety is highly susceptible to oidium and Botrytis. Wine: Delivers wines with a more or less intense nutmeg aroma and flavour. Wines made of ripe grapes have a good ageing potential. Sankt Laurent Importance, conditions: The natural Burgunder seedling St. Laurent was named after St. Lawrence Day - August 10th the day when the grapes begin to change colour. With its somewhat low yield, the variety is considered difficult in the vineyard. It was not always appreciated. Needs good sites with deep soils. It is sensitive during the flowering period, and sensitive to late frost. It brings inconsistent yields. Wine: St. Laurent delivers dark, sturdy and fruity red wines with morello cherry notes. They are of high quality and have good ageability. 11

12 Cabernet Sauvignon Importance, conditions: The France-descending Cabernet Sauvignon is a natural crossing of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc. It is authorized in Austria since 1986 and is planted on 600 ha. While it has no strong soil demands, an excellent vineyard site is key. Early, warm sites are necessary so that unripe, grassy wines are not made. Because it is a high yield variety, yield regulation is necessary for good quality. Wine: Expressions of black currant, and often liquorice and green pepper. The wines need a longer development time so that the tannins can ripen. Only when aged for a good amount of time does the wine reach its peak. Maturing in barriques is practically obligatory it complements the variety perfectly. Roesler Importance, conditions: A new PIWI variety, registered as quality grape since 2000; planted on 170 ha.it is a partially resistant to oidium and peronospora and completely resistant to winter frost. Wine: Brings red wine with a characteristic forest berry aroma. The colourful grapes yield extremely dark wines - rich in extract, body and tannins. Often used as blending partner. Zweigelt Importance, conditions: New breed from St. Laurent and Blaufränkisch, created by Dr. Fritz Zweigelt in 1922 at the Teaching and Research Centre for Viticulture and Horticulture (LFZ) in Klosterneuburg. As the most widespread red wine variety in Austria, Zweigelt grows in favourable sites in all of the country's wine regions. The variety demands little from the soil but, because it is a very fertile grape, requires intensive leaf work and yield regulation. Wine: The variety brings slightly violet-reddish coloured wines with soft tannins. Mature, full-bodied and long-living wines deliver tones of morello cherry. High-quality wines are matured also in barriques. 12

13 THE WINES 2014 the portfolio of the is newly structured. The three product lines are: Velue Velue is the ancient name for the village Velm and means Trees along the river, which are the willow trees growing along the Sulzbach crossing the village. The velue-wines are nature-based and fermented spontaneously inside stainless steel tanks. Velue Grüner Veltliner The Kellerberg is not only the most traditional location of the village Velm- Götzendorf, but also the heart of our winery. Next to our vines, several types of thymes were planted for greening. Moreover, they are harvested to make tee and extracts out of it. The old Veltliner-vines are constantly providing the same high quality of wine every year. The Reflexion- Kellerberg is made of 100% physiological and ripe grapes, which are harvested by hand. For the production of this wine, grapes of the second round of the harvesting process are used. In order to reach more structure and a long storage life hand-harvested berries are included in the fermenting process. Location: Velue several locations around Velm-Goetzendorf Vineyard: year old vines grow on loam, loess and lime sandstone Vinification: short maceration, slow and gentle pressing more than 5 hours, fermented with natural yeasts and matured for 3 months on the lees with Battonage Flavor profile: Fruity fresh and spicy, elegant and soft, prepares uncommon drinking fun 13

14 Velue Welschriesling The Velue- Welschriesling is originated from the area Kellerberg and Hohes Eck. The south-facing slope of the Kellerberg provides ripe aromas and minerals, whereas the Hohes Eck, which lies on the northfacing slope, provides more chilly flavors components. The grapes of this wine are harvested by hand and selected. After a short maceration time the Velue-Welschriesling becomes spontaneously fermented at C inside a steel tank. Location: Velue southern slope and northern slope Vineyard: years old vines grow on loess and lime sandstone Vinifikation: short maceration time, fermented with natural yeasts and spontanous malolactic fermentation with battonage for 3 month on the lees Flavor profile: fruity and hay flowers, expressive, nevertheless soft and elegant Velue Gelber Muskateller The Velue-Muskateller is originated from the area Haidthal and Hohes Eck. Both areas are windy and chilly. That gives you the advantage of late harvesting, thus the wine is physiological ripe and has a moderate alcohol concentration. The Muskateller has a subtle aroma, which perfectly fits this type of wine. The grapes are harvested by hand and certainly selected. After a long maceration time, the Muskateller becomes spontaneously fermented at C inside a steel tank. Location: Velue 2 Plateau in the south and north of Velm- Götzendorf Vineyard: year old vines grow on loess and lime sandstone Vinification: long maceration, slow and gentle pressing more than 8 hours, fermented with natural yeasts and matured for 3 months on the lees with Battonage Flavor profile: Flowery, fruity and spicy, harmonious and soft, perfect length 14

15 Velue Cabernet Rosé The Velue-Rosé is made out of grapes of the first harvesting round of our Cabernet vineyard at Steinthal. The grapes are harvested by hand and after al long maceration time spontaneously fermented in steel tanks at 23 C. The Velue-wines guarantee drinking-fun immediately and you can still enjoy them for 2-3 years. Location: Velue Rosé Cabernet Sauvingon at location Steinthal Vineyard: 25 year old vines grow on loess and lime sandstone Vinification: long maceration time, slow and gentle pressing more than 5 hours, fermented with natural yeasts and matured for 3 months on the lees with Battonage Flavor profile: red beeries, fresh, spicy, elegant and soft, prepares uncommon drinking fun 15

16 Reflexion The Reflexion-wines reflect the character of the year and their origin they are single vineyard wines. The grapes are selected. They are macerated between hours. The musts are gently racked and fermented cloudy in stainless steel tanks with a maximum temperature of 25 C (77 F) kg intact berries are added to each litres must which gives the wines a better tannin structure. Also, between 10 15% of the white wines are fermented in amphorae on the mash and then blended with the rest. Through their stronger tannin structure the Reflexion-wines need less additional sulphur than conventional processed wines. The red wines ferment in open vats, the pulp is punched manually. Fermentation lasts from 3 5 weeks; consequently the wines are matured for one year in used barrels made from acacia wood from the forest of Hohenruppersdorf. The Reflexion-wines are the heart of our winery. They represent perfectly our intentions and work in the vineyards and the cellar. Reflexion Kellerberg Gruener Veltliner The Kellerberg is not only the most traditional location of the village Velm- Götzendorf, but also the heart of our winery. Next to our vines, several types of thymes were planted for greening. Moreover, they are harvested to make tee and extracts out of it. The old Veltliner-vines are constantly providing the same high quality of wine every year. The Reflexion- Kellerberg is made of 100% physiological and ripe grapes, which are harvested by hand. For the production of this wine, grapes of the second round of the harvesting process are used. In order to reach more structure and a long storage life hand-harvested berries are included in the fermenting process. Location: Kellerberg (hill top) Vineyard: 45 year old vines grow on loess above lime sand-stone Vinifikation: long maceration, slow and gentle pressing more than 8 hours, fermented with natural yeasts and matured 4 months on the lees, with Battonage Flavor profile: Yellow fruits and extremely spicy, mineralic and long durance on the palate. 16

17 Reflexion Hohes Eck Pinot Blanc The Hohe Eck is the highest point around our village where the wind blows all day long and it cools down rapidly in the evening. There the grapes for our oinot blanc ripen perfectly and slow. The grapes are harvested and selected by hand. 20% of the berries ferment intercellularly in georgian amphoras (Qvevres), 80% in steel tanks. After 5 weeks they are blended and stay on the lees until mid-may. Location: Vineyard: Hohes Eck (north slope) 35 year old vines on loess over lime-sandstone Vinification: long maceration, 20% fermented intercellularly in georgian amphoras, gentle pressing more than 8 hours, fermented spontaneous with intact berries; matured for 6 months on the lees with Battonage Flavor profile: yellow fruits, extremely spicy, complex, mineral driven and structured, lingering long on the palate. 17

18 Numen Numen denotes the metaphysical process, which cannot be influenced by human beings. Thus, the wine almost arose without any interventions of the Vintner. Numen Gruner Veltliner This wine is also nature based and has a strong character. Several days before the Numen Veltliner is carefully pressed, the wine becomes partly fermented on the skins. The next step is to store the wine for more than a year on the yeast, without any interventions. At the end, the wine is bottled without filtering it; therefore the Numen Veltliner is the most recognizable wine in our assortment. Location: Kellerberg and Steinthal Vineyard: years old vines grow on loess and lime sandstone Vinification: spontaneously fermented on the must, carefully pressed, afterwards, 16 months no interventions, directly gained from the yeast and bottled without filtering Flavor profile: extremely spicy, complex and mineralic texture Numen Riesling Several days before the Numen Riesling is carefully pressed, the wine becomes partly fermented on the skins. The next step is to store the wine for more than a year on the yeast, without any interventions. At the end, the wine is bottled without filtering it. Location: Haidthal Vineyard: 30 years old vines grow on lime sandstone Vinification: spontaneously fermented on the must, carefully pressed, afterwards, 16 months no interventions, directly gained from the yeast and bottled without filtering Flavor profile: yellow fruits, spicy, complex and mineralic texture, long finish 18

19 Numen Fumé blanc Several days before the Numen Fumé blanc is carefully pressed, the wine becomes partly fermented on the skins. The next step is to store the wine for more than a year on the yeast, without any interventions. At the end, the wine is bottled without filtering it. Location: Steinthal Vineyard: 30 years old vines grow on loess and lime sandstone Vinification: spontaneously fermented on the must, carefully pressed, afterwards, 16 months no interventions, directly gained from the yeast and bottled without filtering Flavor profile: yellow fruits, herbs and flowers, complex, piquant and mineralic texture, long finish 19

20 AWARDS 2014 GAULT&MILLAU Discovery of the year * 2012 Riesling Numen 18,5 points * 2012 Grüner Veltliner Numen: 18 points * 2012 Fumé blanc Numen: 18 points * 2013 Weißburgunder Reflexion Hohes Eck: 17,5 points * 2013 Grüner Veltliner Reflexion Kellerberg: 17 points * 2013 Sauvignon blanc Reflexion Lissen: 17 points * 2013 Riesling Velue: 16,5 points * 2013 Gelber Muskateller Velue: 16 points A LA CARTE * 2013 Weißburgunder Reflexion Hohes Eck: 94 points * 2012 Fumé blanc Numen: 93 points * 2013 Grüner Veltliner Reflexion Kellerberg: 93 points * 2012 Grüner Veltliner Numen: 92 points * 2012 Riesling Numen 92 points 2013 FALSTAFF * 92 points K2 Grüner Veltliner Reserve 2011 * 91 points Weinviertel DAC Kellerberg 2012 * 90 points SEKT Welschriesling Brut 2010 * 90 points Sauvignon Lissen 2011 * 88 points Grüner Veltliner elegant & fruchtig 2012 A LA CARTE * 91 points Weinviertel DAC Kellerberg 2012 BEST OF BIO WINE Winner of the category: Welschriesling elegant & fruchtig 2012 Winner of the category: Welschriesling AUSBRUCH 2008 WEINGUIDE - ÖSTERREICHS BESTE WEISSWEINE Highest score for: Weinviertel DAC Kellerberg 2012 Highest score for: K2 - Grüner Veltliner RESERVE

21 2012 CHINA SOMMELIERS WINE CHALLENGE * BEST SWEET WINE & Gold Medal: Ausbruch Welschriesling 2008 (best sweet wine available in China) FALSTAFF * 92 points Traminer Reserve unfiltriert 2009 * 92 points K2 Grüner Veltliner Reserve 2009 * 91 points K2 Grüner Veltliner Reserve unfiltriert 2010 * 91 points Riesling Haidthal 2011 * 91 points Cabernet Steinthal 2009 * 90 points Sankt Laurent Steinthal 2009 INTERNATIONALER BIOWEINPREIS 93 Punkte Muskateller elegant & fruchtig 2011 A LA CARTE * 90 Punkte Sauvignon Lissen 2011 * 91 Punkte Sankt Laurent Steinthal 2009 AWC-VIENNA 92 points & Gold Traminer Reserve unfiltriert 2009 DECANTER WORLD WINE AWARDS Bronze Weinviertel DAC Kellerberg

22 GENERAL INFORMATION Vineyard area: 17,5 hectares (44 acres) wines: 70% white 30% red Grape varieties: Grüner Veltliner 29% Riesling 10% Muskateller 10% Pinot Blanc 8% Zweigelt 7% Regent 7% Rösler 7% Sauvignon Blanc 6% Welschriesling 5% Sankt Laurent 4% Cabernet Sauvignon 3% Sämling 2% Syrah 1% Tannat 1% Production: bottles per year 96% dry 3,5% sparkling 0,5% sweet Organic certified AT-BIO-401 Demeter-certified CONTACT Landstraße Velm-Götzendorf Tel. +43 (0) Fax +43 (0)2538/