RHONE 2010 EN PRIMEUR

Transcription

1 RHONE 2010 EN PRIMEUR A vintage dominated by the soil not the sun When assessing a new vintage one always looks to the previous year for a comparison and in the Rhône this year we find a very similar story to Burgundy, where the wines are less marked by the warmth of the vintage and more by their terroir. There is great purity and freshness yet depth and concentration. These are truly excellent wines that should definitely grace any serious Rhône-lover s cellar! What the critics say "...having already started my tastings of the 2010 vintage in Burgundy and the Rhône, I must urge those of you who like wines from these two great French wine regions to try to put a bit of money aside (ha!) to invest in the 2010s from them. After the unusually ripe, relatively low acid wines made in 2009, the 2010s typically show considerably more precision and freshness, and more supple tannins in the case of the southern Rhône. " Jancis Robinson MW, Purple Pages (JancisRobinson.com) December 2011 "This is a great vintage that comes close in quality to 2007 in the southern Rhône. Some producers think 2010 eclipses 2007 because of the wines vivid freshness and focus." Robert Parker, Wine Advocate November 2011 Northern Rhône Perfect summer conditions in June, July and August 2010 ensured healthy, ripe fruit with just enough rain before harvest to give the vines a welcome boost. Harvest began two weeks later than in 2009 which had been exceptionally early. In 2010, just as in Burgundy, the terroir shines through and the wines have concentration, purity and freshness. Southern Rhône The weather pattern was slightly different further south with some flowering problems early on (especially on Grenache) which had a subsequent impact on yields. The summer was hot and very dry in August but luckily the nights were cool and this helped to retain acidity and freshness in the wines. From Côtes du Rhône to Hermitage there are wines for every pocket and occasion. Both whites and reds will be approachable young but the finest reds, especially from the North, have the structure to cellar for decades whilst the whites should be approached within the first 3-5 years of life to enjoy their fresh fruit character. Aaron Irons and Susan McCraith MW N.B. though not strictly a Rhône we have included the excellent 2010 Mas de Daumas Gassac at the back of the offer February 2012 Page 1 Prices are 12 x 75cl under bond

2 Prices Prices are under bond, Octavian, Corsham excluding duty and VAT and are for cases of 12x75cl unless otherwise stated. Index of Producers Northern Rhône: Pierre Benetière, Condrieu page 2 Domaine Gilles Barge, Ampuis page 2 Domaine des Remizières page 3 Domaine Vincent Paris page 3 Southern Rhône: Les Pallières page 4 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe page 4 Domaine Roger Sabon page 4 Château de Beaucastel/Perrin page 5 Domaine de la Charbonnière page 5 Domaine de l Espigouette page 6 Languedoc Roussillon : Mas de Daumas Gassac page 6 TASTING NOTES NORTHERN RHONE Pierre Benetière, Condrieu Pierre Benetière, an ardent rugby fan, started his tiny estate in late 1980s with the purchase of 2 ha of vines in the Côte Blonde lieu-dit of Cordeloux in Côte Rôtie. Not all of it was planted so he has been clearing and planting this steep hillside ever since. His reputation has grown over the last 15 years or so entirely by word of mouth since Benetière never shows his wines to critics or at fairs and shows. He works the vines organically, paying huge attention to the living matter in the soils, and he makes the wines very naturally and simply using traditional methods. He doesn t destem, uses only wild yeasts and adds nothing at all to the wines, which are aged in barrique and bottled unfiltered. His Côte Rôtie and Condrieu are wines with gorgeous, gentle purity of fruit, silky texture and great mineral acidity. Until 5 years ago, Benetière was making the wines in his tiny, cramped garage adjoining the family house in the suburbs of the town of Roussillon across the river from Condrieu. It was an appropriately artisan setting but difficult to work in. Five years ago he moved to a decent-sized cellar in the heart of the village of Condrieu Condrieu Drink: Price: 297 per 12 Spice pear aromas on the nose lead to a restrained elegant palate with notes of peachy stone fruits and a refreshing minerality. Gorgeous weight and texture a truly delicious Condrieu 2010 Côte Rôtie Cordeloux Drink: Price: 336 per 12 Deep, lovely nose of forest berries, violets and blackcurrant leaf. Very concentrated and there is real weight and density on the palate though with a well-defined backbone of acidity. Very long and very refined. Gilles Barges, Ampuis Gilles has 8 hectares split between Côte Rôtie, Condrieu and St Joseph. His cellars are set into the hillside and he produces a range of wonderfully concentrated, rich wines, utilising 8-9 year old foudres rather than new oak, allowing real terroir definition to shine through. Always a favourite and again a huge success in 2010, the Côte Brune is stunning this year Côte Rôtie Côte Brune Drink: Price: 327 per 12 Dark ruby purple colour, the most serious of the three cuvées with an added sophistication; a brooding nose of blackcurrant fruits, peppery spice and liquorice leads to a peppery concentrated palate with flavours of morello cherr. Very masculine in style with huge tannins, fresh acidity and a long, smoky finish. Very well balanced, this has a long life ahead of it. February 2012 Page 2 Prices are 12 x 75cl under bond

3 Philippe Desmeure, Domaine des Remizières, Mercurol Domaine des Remizières is a top address for exceptional Crozes-Hermitage and Hermitage and after producing a stunning range in 2009 appear to have done it again with a brilliant offering in As with 2009 the Crozes- Hermitage Cuvée Christophe and their profound and powerful Hermitage Cuvée Emilie were our favourite wines, the former a serious age-worthy Crozes from 65 year old vines, the latter a stunningly powerful and rich Hermitage, among the best examples produced of this famous appellation Crozes-Hermitage Rouge, Cuvée Christophe Drink Price : 192 per 12 Superb, seductive nose of dark berried fruits, cigar box and liquorice, very ripe and pure; the oak is evident on the palate at present but the excellent quality of the fruit here offers the perfect marriage in time. The very heights of what is achievable in this appellation. Hermitage Rouge, Cuvée Emilie Drink Price : 432 per 12 Masses of fruit here with impressively rich layers of blackberry and cassis and aromas of toast, smoky bacon and violets; Complex and multilayered on the palate, this has a lovely rounded texture and impeccable balance. A lovely prospect for future enjoyment! Domaine Vincent Paris, Cornas Vincent Paris is a precocious talent and his three cuvées of Cornas are regularly some of the best wines we taste from the Northern Rhône smoky, meaty Syrah at its finest. On the back of a superb set of wines in 2009 he has produced a range of 2010s which may prove to be even better! Time will tell Cornas Granit 30 Drink: Price: 195 per 12 Granit 30 is from lower down the hill where the younger vines are inclined at 30 o.. Half the wine is matured in barriques. This is the more junior and forward of the three cuvées, yet no less impressive, offering smoky savoury rich, black fruits on the nose and a delicious palate with good acidity and very fine tannins Cornas Granit 60 Vieilles Vignes Drink: Price: 138 per 6 The vines producing the fruit for the Cornas Granit 60 are on average 60 years old and are situated on the highest slopes of Vincent s vineyard (the 60 refers to the degree of the slope). Noticeably denser than the Granit 30 the nose here offers intensely concentrated aromas of forest fruits, smoke, garrigue and an earthy minerals leading to a full bodied, concentrated palate that demands time in the cellar Cornas, La Geynale Drink: Price: 174 per 6 From one of the greatest vineyards in Cornas, the fruit for La Geynale is years old on average; the 2010 is supercharged with mouthwatering blackcurrant fruits, game and spice on the nose leading to a densely textured palate offering wave after wave of concentrated fruits, bracing acidity and huge length. A monumental wine in 2010! February 2012 Page 3 Prices are 12 x 75cl under bond

4 TASTING NOTES SOUTHERN RHONE Les Pallières, Vignobles Brunier, Gigondas Quite rightly regarded as one of the finest estates in Gigondas, quality has been in the ascendant at Les Pallières since it was acquired by Daniel Brunier of Vieux Télégraphe in Two cuvées are produced of which the Terrasses du Diable is our favourite; predominantly Grenache with a splash of Mourvèdre and Clairette, from vines with an average age of 45 years situated in the north of the appellation, this is a serious, ageworthy Gigondas which will reward cellaring for a few years to allow the tannins to integrate Gigondas, Terrasses du Diable Drink: Price: 93 per 6 From very low yields of 16 hl per hectare the Terrasses du Diable offers superb richness and concentration of fruit on the nose yet remains fresh and unfurls wonderfully on the palate, revealing great energy and verve and mineral notes on the long finish. Utterly superb Gigondas. Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe A magnificent property, Vieux Télégraphe is produced from just three of the permitted varieties for Châteauneuf du Pape - Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, fermented separately in stainless steel. After blending the wine is matured in large oak foudres. Drinkable quite young, the reds have an ability to age beautifully for decades if well cellared Châteauneuf du Pape Rouge Drink: Price: 192 per 6 Produced from vines situated in the highly regarded sector of Châteauneuf du Pape known as Le Crau the 2010 is sheer class on the nose, with garrigue, black raspberry, kirsch and spicy complexity leading to a full-bodied, earthy palate with great richness and concentration, good acidity and a firm tannic structure promising long-life ahead. Domaine Roger Sabon, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Didier Negron has been in charge of the winemaking here since taking over from his father in law Jean- Jacques Sabon in 2004 and the results are spectacular. The Cuvée Les Olivets, the best value cuvée, contains fruits from vines with a minimum age of 50 years situated in the best sites in Châteauneuf du Pape. Maturation takes place in foudres and used barriques and the finished wine is neither fined nor filtered Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvée Les Olivets Drink: Price: 198 per 12 This is dense purple in colour, quite closed on the nose but offers a glimpse of very fine, rich Grenache fruits; there is a refreshing acidity on the palate and plenty of full-bodied red berry and cherry fruit with complex notes of garrigue and earth. A beautifully executed 2010 Chateauneuf. February 2012 Page 4 Prices are 12 x 75cl under bond

5 Château de Beaucastel/Perrin et Fils, Courthezon The Perrin family, one of the great winemaking families of France, are dedicated to quality, preserving top terroirs, and regularly offer the best portfolio of wines in the Southern Rhône, headed by their Châteauneuf du Pape, Château de Beaucastel Château de Beaucastel, Châteauneuf du Pape Rouge Drink: Price: per 6 The style is elegant rather than opulent, yet the core of fruit is immense. The family compare this to the great 1978 vintage: Wonderful ripeness, really vivid lively fruit and savoury smoky black leather. Big chocolaty core. Great flavour, powerful, rich and dense - superb intensity from the Grenache. A tremendous Beaucastel this vintage which flows beautifully on the palate Vinsobres Les Cornuds, Perrin et Fils Drink: Price: 90 per 12 The 2010 Vinsobres Les Cornuds is fine boned with lovely definition of flavour, a deep hue but not opaque; lovely fresh lift on the nose; palate has very good core of rich fruit. Dry yet very succulent. This will need some bottle age but will be very lovely indeed Vacqueyras Les Christins, Perrin et Fils Drink: Price: per 12 This is a delicious and juicy wine that has the precision and freshness of the vintage and huge generosity too: Big colour though not opaque; spicy nose and rich, concentrated Grenache fruits; the palate flows really well here with ripe peppery fruit. This is a very enjoyable glass of wine with a typical hint of black pepper on the finish. Domaine de la Charbonnière, Châteauneuf-du-Pape A top Domaine run by the Maret family with 12 hectares of prime vineyard in Châteauneuf and 10 hectares in Vacqueyras. Vinification is traditional in stainless steel and concrete vats with élevage in a mixture of new barriques, foudres and demi-muids. The cuvée Vieilles Vignes is mainly Grenache from 80 year old vines and is aged in 10% new oak barriques. The Mourre des Perdrix is a feminine styled Chateauneuf which manages to combine richness with lovely elegance Vacqueyras Drink: Price: 135 per 12 Insiders widely regard the Vacqueyras produced by the Maret family as one of the best buys in the Southern Rhône; the 2010 Vacqueyras has a lovely nose of mineral, earthy complexity alongside morello cherry and blackcurrant jam; the palate is medium weight and has very fine tannins and lovely pure, intense flavours this will be superb in the medium term Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvée Mourre des Perdrix Drink Price: 285 per 12 This has a lovely perfume of floral raspberry and blueberry fruits alongside earthy forest floor aromas; medium weight on the palate and showing lovely elegance and svelte tannins, this has a velvety mouth feel yet real richness and concentration Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvée Vieilles Vignes Drink: Price: 291 per 12 The Cuvée Vieilles Vignes from the limestone and clay soils of the famed La Crau is an immense wine in 2010, hugely proportioned with layer upon layer of dense, dark mineral fruits, notes of liquorice and complex herbal notes on the nose. Full bodied and dense on the palate, this is a superb prospect for cellaring for at least 5-10 years. Rated Points by Robert Parker. February 2012 Page 5 Prices are 12 x 75cl under bond

6 Domaine de l Espigouette, Bernard Latour, Violès A superb Domaine which produces a range of outstanding Rhône s with lovely rich, spicy flavours and real elegance offering exceptional value for money. Bernard is natural winemaker and very serious about quality - very low yields are the norm and his vineyards are moving towards organic certification with biodynamic principles. The average age of his vines is not less than 40 years old. We love these wines! 2010 Côtes du Rhône Drink: Price: 69 per 12 A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan the 2010 Côtes du Rhône has a lovely perfumed nose and plenty of delicious red berried fruits on the palate very fresh and pure and infinitely drinkable! 2010 Côtes du Rhône Villages, Plan de Dieu Drink: Price: 84 per 12 A wonderfully expressive nose of garrigue herbs and rich and ripe yet fresh fruits leads to a delicious palate with a supple texture offering earthy black cherry fruits and spice and very finely integrated tannins, a superb example of Plan de Dieu Vacqueyras Drink: Price: 111 per 12 Predominantly Grenache with a little Syrah and Mourvèdre, the 2010 Vacqueyras has a wonderfully perfumed nose and a soft, velvety textured palate with svelte tannins this is accessible now but should drink well over the next 5-7 years. (Scored 17 out of 20 from Jancis Robinson) Languedoc Roussillon Mas de Daumas Gassac, Aniane Famously known as the Lafite of the Languedoc ; Aimé Guilbert first planted Cabernet Sauvigon in 1972 at a site in the Languedoc chosen by the renowned Professor Emile Peynaud who recognised its potential to produce a great wine and the first vintage was Mas de Daumas Gassac is a superb Bordeaux-styled red. In a good vintage the wine can age for decades and the 2010 is another excellent vintage for the estate Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge Drink: Price: 99 per 6 Deep rich, concentrated nose with a seductive aroma of ripe cassis, lovely lift and energy. Beautiful texture on the palate quite dense and weighty with very fine tannins which are almost hidden. An excellent Daumas Gassac Rouge in this vintage, reflecting the excellent growing season. February 2012 Page 6 Prices are 12 x 75cl under bond

7 TERMS AND CONDITIONS Availability Wines are offered subject to availability and where demand exceeds supply wine will be allocated taking into account the balance of the overall order. Prices Prices shown are for cases of 12 x 75cl bottles (unless otherwise shown) lying in bond and exclude UK excise duty, VAT and UK delivery. Prices are valid until end April Shipping Once the wines have been released by the growers, we will group shipments together and by the autumn of 2012 we will start releasing wines. We will inform you when your wines have arrived into the UK and check where you would like these stored or delivered. Paying for your wines Step 1 When you place an order, we will send you an invoice which is due for immediate payment. This first invoice covers the cost of the wines and the shipping and insurance to WineSafe at Octavian Vaults in Corsham. It excludes excise duty and VAT and onward delivery to your home or other selected warehouse. Payment can be made by cheque, or directly into our bank account. Step 2 When the wines land in the UK you have a choice to store them under bond or pay the UK excise duty and VAT at the prevailing rates and have the wines delivered. Should you wish to pay the duty and VAT a second invoice will be issued. VAT is charged on the duty and the purchase price of the wine. Delivery to your home or designated warehouse will also be charged. As an illustration: 1 st invoice: 1 case 12 x under bond 2 nd invoice: UK excise duty currently per 12 x 75cl 20% VAT on the duty % VAT on the wine Total Storage If you wish to store your wines (under bond or duty paid) this can be arranged via WineSafe ( at Octavian Cellars in Corsham. Please contact us for current storage charges. How to order Please telephone our office on or either Aaron Irons aaron@dbmwines.co.uk or Aidan Bell aidanbell@dbmwines.co.uk February 2012 Page 7 Prices are 12 x 75cl under bond