Handford Wines Burgundy En Primeur 2016 Offer

Transcription

1 Handford Wines Burgundy En Primeur 2016 Offer 1

2 Contents Burgundy 2016 Vintage Report... 3 How the Offer Works... 4 Frederic Esmonin, Gevrey Chambertin... 5 Georges Lignier, Morey Saint Denis... 6 Christian Clerget, Vougeot... 8 Jean Chauvenet, Nuits Saint Georges... 9 Jean Marc Millot, Nuits Saint Georges Philippe Cheron, Nuits Saint Georges Domaine Faiveley, Nuits Saint Georges Domaine Roche de Bellene, Beaune Maison Roche de Bellene, Beaune Domaine de Comte Armand, Pommard Michel Lafarge, Volnay Thierry Matrot, Meursault Domaine Francois Mikulski, Meursault Domaine Leflaive, Puligny Montrachet Domaines Leflaive (Formerly Leflaive & Associes), Puligny Montrachet Domaine Paul Pillot, Chassagne Montrachet Gerard Thomas, Saint Aubin Order Form

3 Burgundy 2016 Vintage Report The Weather 2016 will always be remembered for a devastating frost on 27 th April. The worst scenario is such a sudden dip in temperature before a clear and sunny dawn. The sun s rays are then magnified by the icy coating and buds are burnt. So the site of the vineyard is important not only for susceptibility to frost, but also for the aspect in relative to morning sun. Like much of the wine producing cycle, it is the coming together of a myriad of nature s workings. Nature is still keen to give us some good grapes, so understand that the remaining fruit can still be of the most premium quality. The most affected areas were Chablis and part of the Cotes de Beaune, notably Chassagne Montrachet. As in Bordeaux in 2017, damage was not as bad as first reported and tended to be in many small microclimates rather than affecting large swathes of land. Cool weather continued through May and June. There was risk of mildew to the extent that some had to seriously weigh up the cost of managing, especially organic vineyards, against the value of the much reduced quantities of fruit on the vines. Anyone who made it into July would be blessed with one of the best ripening seasons on record; August and September were just what the doctor ordered. This vintage is a tribute to biodynamics and reasonable viticulture. Although it looked dicey come mid summer, the patient and persistent were well rewarded by nature. So there are many wines in very short supply. The good news is that there are some fabulous wines, both white and red, some of them more interesting than in Cotes de Nuits There are truly fine wines here. Morey (1er Cru Clos de Ormes, Lignier), Chambolles (1er Cru Fuees, Bellene and Chambolle Village, Clerget) and Vougeot (Clerget and the Echezeaux from Millot) are arguably the best areas. Frost tended to do most damage at the entrance to the combes (the gaps in the hill) and vineyards just around from these suffered from the trapped, cold air and their east facing exposure to the early rays. To get an understanding, compare the lower and more east-facing positions of the frost-hit vineyards of Nuits Saint Georges (les Poulettes, Rue de Chaux and aux Bousselots) with the higher and south facing aux Argillas. By and large, growers indicated that they treated the fermenting must with ever more gentle care, caressing rather than plunging and de-stemming a little more than in The results are finer, more intricate, lacy wines, not quite as showy but still with plenty of depth and breadth. In fact, the fruits tend to be purer than in any vintage of the last ten. 3

4 Cotes de Beaune When it comes to the curse of the frost it has to be said that there are some real issues with volume here, especially in the great whites. Most famously, le Montrachet harvested 10% of a normal yield and the fruits of all the growers are sitting in one tiny cuve chez Leflaive. Once again the tiny 1er Cru ageing cellar at Lafarge, my favourite place to be, is looking sadly depleted. There is no Vendanges Selectionnees and so the Volnay is a very good buy this year! Once again, the Auxey from Armand is a dream wine for the money. Most importantly note the comments on whites below. Quality is exceptional but it really is difficult to get wine! The Market 2015 Burgundies evaporated. As for 2015, clients have been knocking on the door for allocations of 2016 way before the offering. So 2016 will go the same way as 2015 with white wine stock looking very difficult to manage; the wines are as good as the great 2014s (already long gone) but with less than half the quantities available. Demand for Burgundy has become, if anything, more global than for Bordeaux. How the Offer Works Prices are quoted per case of 6 (unless stated) in bond (i.e. duty free) at London City Bond. Wines may be stored by us or transferred in bond. Most wines will be shipped in the spring or autumn of 2018 for onward delivery. When you choose to receive wines the duty (currently per case of 6) and V.A.T. on the total value (inc. duty) must be paid prior to delivery. Transfer under bond and delivery to the UK mainland are free for orders over 500 (in bond value). Otherwise delivery charged at per address. Wines may be collected from 105 Old Brompton Road. Storage with us at LCB is 0.96 per case per month inc. VAT. Where possible I have included tasting notes to give an indication of style. More importantly, Greg and I have tasted at least 10 wines for every wine chosen and most wines offered have been tried more than once during Drinking dates give an idea of when the wines will be ready. There are never fixed rules and wines should be enjoyed at as many stages of their life as possible. Village wines and generic Bourgogne should be tried, if not drunk in the early stages. In general we tend to be conservative on drink by dates. Many of the 1er and Grand Crus from a great vintage like this will cellar for longer. Given the very low availability orders will be confirmed by 19 th January and invoiced for payment by return and by bank transfer or debit cards. We do not accept credit cards for en Primeur and in bond offers, or for duty payments. James Handford MW and Greg Sherwood MW 4

5 Frederic Esmonin, Gevrey Chambertin These wonderful vineyards are still managed by Frederic s father, Andre, who was bottling quality reds here at les Estournelles long before the fashion for domaine bottled burgundy took off. The vines are managed not always with the aim of reducing yield to produce soupy concentration but to achieve a balance between expression and concentration; a good deal of finesse and some fat to the wines. Andre is, in his modest way, one of most knowledgeable of Nuits vignerons. He remembers details of vintages back to the 1950s and planted vines with his father in the 1940s. He is not a big fan of intervention, especially green harvesting, as he believes that more often than not, it is an attempt to correct mistakes that have been made in the pruning and longer term management of vineyards. Thanks go to Fred and Andre for a lovely lunch to save me kicking my heels on All Saints Day. Some older wines showed very well indeed, another tribute to their great work in the vineyards. Gevrey Chambertin Clos Prieur 2016 (12) Bright, pure, lovely depth to what is a relatively light red. It adjoins the 1er Cru vineyard of the same name, first planted by monks from the Abbey of Cluny. There are mutterings about abandoning ambiguous lieu dits and so this may be the last few vintages of Prieur. Like the vines and the wines, these things tend to take time to Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Estournelles Saint Jacques 2016 (12) Lively, frivolous, full fruit, raspberry leaf and white pepper; from slightly sandy and more friable soils the Pinot here tends to be more energized and spring water pure. Plenty of youthful character. May be fun to have a bottle or two straight away but, for the most part, keep for 10 to 15 years to Ruchottes Chambertin Grand Cru 2016 This is the wine that stood out all those years ago and so where our wonderful journey with Fred Esmonin began. They are the oldest vines of the domaine, and now over 60 years old. A powerful core of super ripe and fresh red berry fruit pierces the tongue but there is outstanding breadth to this too. This upper middle ground of Cotes de Nuits is certainly where the 2016s sing. Even more desirable than the great to

6 Georges Lignier, Morey Saint Denis I met Georges at a village tasting in His 1993 Bonnes Mares was the best of his extensive range and the star of the day. In good vintages, the Grand Crus are among the best in the region. Fermentation is allowed to run naturally resulting in high extract of both colour and flavour. Georges matures his best reds in 50% new oak. George s son in law from Volnay, Benoit Stehly is usually found in one of the 100 parcels making up 16 hectares of vines. Along with Jean Marc Millot, Lignier has been earmarked by press and collectors as one to grab. As well as that the poor volumes in some appellations mean we must allocate these wines. Morey 1er Cru, Clos de la Roche and Bonnes Mares are in particularly short supply. Morey Saint Denis 2016 This little area covering Chambolle and Morey is outstanding in Clean, vibrant and lifted redcurrant, the Morey is more in the style of Gevrey. It is a little more nervous and lively but, this year, shows more density, herbs and warm liquorice spice. The humble Denis may outwit the Goliath that is Gevrey in Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Clos des Ormes 2016 Though one of the larger 1er Cru, this is wonderfully situated on the road out of Gevrey, immediately to the north of the great Grand Crus. With Benoit Stehly 6

7 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru les Combottes 2016 Sandwiched between Grand Crus, this always shows an extraordinary fullness and depth, often the result of smaller berry size and so lower yields. Power and sucrosity and there is a delightful counterbalance of density and lightness. A wine with a difference to 2032 Clos Saint Denis 2016 Being exposed to the drying north winds fruit is often more delicate, but always clean and with mineral notes. So, like the Morey villages, this is more delicate red/plum in colour but star bright. Pure, vibrant fruits and with soft, sandalwood tannins and spice that melt into the sweet fruits. Magical and ethereal, this is a wondrous wine with no hard edges to 2034 Clos de la Roche 2016 Perhaps more restrained in its youth than 2009 and 2010, but possibly more complex too. Spiced cherry, pastry, cocoa and slatey minerals with a massive hit of fruit on the mid palate. This is hemmed in by the firm structure now but forest fruits and truffle on the finish, as well as underlying concentration, are not so subtle pointers to a grand wine in the offing to Bonnes Mares 2016 A little under one third of a hectare produces 4 barrels (1200 bottles). As well as the one new cask there is as much as 25% of whole bunch fermentation here; a brave move for Benoit is more serious than any previous vintage, and possibly one of the best wines Benoit had made. Dark and stormy with a so many things hidden in the mix and waiting to come out to

8 Christian Clerget, Vougeot The first time I met Christian he was in a hurry to catch a plane to Nepal and climb the 7 th or 8 th highest peak in the world. In November he s found another mountain to summit, a bit closer to home I think. Fortunately his wife Isabelle and daughter Justine are equal parts of a wonderful family who strive to express what their vineyards offer. As Christian says, when he s there, don t try to cheat the vines. These are very much in the elegant, feminine and silky style and 2016 is further proof that this is a domaine worth watching. Very small quantities here. Vosne Romanee les Violettes 2016 Rich, raspberry coulis, explosive, sweet and creamy fruits with silky tannin and an overall texture that caresses the palate. So good now it will be hard to hold much back to 2024 Chambolle Musigny 2016 Clerget is one of my growers of the vintage; and this area of the Cotes de Nuits is the best of This all adds up to the most buyable wine here! Supple, mineral, sucrosity, lift and plenty of breadth on the palate. Covers all the bases and will be good in youth too to Chambolle Musigny er Cru les Charmes Just the perfect ripeness here, no mushy over-ripeness or harsh green character. Full of natural and soft red fruit concentration. Supple and comforting finish to 2030 Vougeot 1er Cru les Petits Vougeots 2016 Although the Clergets have a little Echezeaux, this is the flagship wine. 5 generations have worked this land which is a stones throw from their house in the village. It lies just north east of the road that comes in from the Chateau du Clos Vougeot. Appealing focus of red fruit compote with perfect harmony and intensity. Seamless, silky texture to

9 Jean Chauvenet, Nuits Saint Georges Jean's cellars are just off the main road. Fork right as you go north out of town and you will be treated to some of the best in town. Vineyard holdings are relatively large here but in Bousselots, Vaucrains and Perrieres; Jean has some of the finest 1er Cru vineyards in the Cotes de Nuits. Truly outstanding in recent years such as 2006, 2008, 2009, 2010 and Son-in-law Christophe Drag is one of the biggest movers in quality terms. He harvests into very small crates and so cleaner and less damaged fruit can be moved directly into the fermentation vats without the need of auger or pump. Almost all the fruit was de-stemmed and there is a cool pre-fermentation maceration for 5 to 6 days. Christophe was keen to point out how careful he was with his tapotage, or gentle pigeage, this year. We have reduced the selection here partly to reduce confusion and partly to compensate for low volumes. There are two 1er Cru vineyards north of town and two south. As the village wine incorporates some of the 1er Cru and finer village vineyards it is a very good buy for drinking in 2 or 3 years. Nuits Saint Georges 2016 This year the smaller parcels of Nuits become Bourgogne and the best bits are saved for this wine. No room for the in between blend, 'six pieces', this year. Fruit comes from 4 climats this year, Alliots, Charmottes, St Jacques and St Julien. All are iron rich and with gravel or sand to give good drainage. Bright and dense in appearance with crunchy, red apple, cranberry and redcurrant. Plenty of richness on the finish too. Another outstanding village wine to 2025 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Aux Argillas 2016 A south facing vineyard with rows planted east to west to reduce mid day sun burn. Has a lovely feel about it; weighty and with many layers of fruits, a touch of silky and youthful tannin, deep and ripe black fruits of the forest on the finish. Alluring to Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru les Damodes 2016 From high up on the north side of the village the Damodes 2016 has a unique expression of delicacy and strength combined. There were a lot of giggles in Christophe's cellar over the lacy, lingerie texture but there are no secrets here; very fine and impossible to leave out of this great collection of 1er Crus to Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru les Perrieres 2016 The irony here is that the best wines are coming from those that are worst hit by frosts. The areas in the combe are the trickiest. So Argillas and Bousselots on the north side, and Poulettes (was a catastrophe) and Perrieres to the south. This is gutsy, gourmand, solid and broad shouldered. Larger than life to

10 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Vaucrains 2016 This should surely be considered for Grand Cru status; the politics though are that there are just a handful of local owners in les Saint Georges, including the Hospices, but, at neighbouring Vaucrains, there are 22, and those owners are more dispersed throughout the region. Christophe has 42 ares that usually produce a healthy 8 barrels. Just a little less in 2016 but no mistaking that pointed look in Christophe s eyes as he dispenses the pipette of Vaucrains from the barrel. He thinks this is one of the finest wines he has made in his 19 years in charge here to Jean Marc Millot, Nuits Saint Georges Jean Marc has been in charge of his family's small domaine for nearly two decades now. He has combined his experience with a relatively new chai at Nuits Saint Georges and is coming out with some very solid wines indeed. There is a tendency to pick a little later (though never the last for the Cotes de Nuits Villages), use careful selection and then vinify in the natural way. There is just a little new oak on the Grand Crus and the Suchots but the wines rely on a very natural feel and intensity of fruit. The Cotes de Nuits Villages has been a great value wine for some years. Jean Marc and Christine s second daughter, Alix is making her mark... this is her fourth vintage and the wines have now become highly prized. Savigny les Beaune 2016 (12) This is from three plots of village Savigny. The majority is from Aux Fourches, next to 1er Cru Fourneaux on the Aloxe side; the rest is from the south facing and more generous soils of Les Gollardes and les Vermots to the west of the village. Jean Marc is clearly now ever more proud of this red. He enthuses over the whole process. This year the elements of the wine, what was left of it, came together so well and the work in the winery to result in this pure, focussed, crunchy red fruit wine, was minimal. Excellent to

11 Cotes de Nuits Villages Aux Faulques' 2016 (12) This is an old Clos within the rising vineyards at Comblanchien, at the southern tip of the Cotes de Nuits. With two of the four walls remaining, and bureaucrats to feed, the word Clos is no longer allowed. So there are now two further plots, les Essarts and Cachottes in Premeaux Prissey and Comblanchien respectively. A part of this is aged in cuve, as was the tradition for Vosne Romanee chez Engel. Super colour and sucrosity here; not shy! Supple, clean, queen of puddings and plenty of dimension. Will keep well too to 2024 Vosne Romanee 2016 Deep, rounded, bramble and crab apple jelly with notes of quince cheese and strawberry shortcake. Huge length and body for a village red. Classic Millot smoothness and full body. It s lively too. Jean Marc describes it as gouleyant. Difficult to translate exactly but try lively and gluggable; perhaps more flattering when considered alongside the huge wines to follow! Very short supply to Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Suchots 2016 Between Echezeaux and Clos Vougeot this is another of the great 1er Crus. The moniker Suchots holds many possibilities though it s likely to be named for tree stumps (souches) in what was a forested area. Soft spice, vanilla, deep raspberry juice notes but uplifting, jolly and with extraordinary length of flavours to Echezeaux 2016 Sandy soils in this part of Echezeaux allow free drainage. Continues to fall way short of potential volume (less than 7 barrels out of 14) but exceeds expectations in quality terms. Just the one new barrel. The complexity of game, pepper and spice is hidden deep beneath a robe of ripe red fruits; not the brooding, black fruits of 2015 but a more frisky lively red fruit compote with the most perfect and seamless coating of tannin and acidity. Strong, mineral, expressive and goes on for ever to Clos Vougeot 2016 The upper parts of the Clos were chosen as most suitable by the monks of the Abbey of Citeaux and first planted in Much of the area known as Grand Mapertui, where Jean-Marc`s holding is situated, lies within this prestigious section. There is a lot more power, tannin and tight fruit with a great representation of the gravelly limestone that dominates this corner of the vineyard. A huge red that needs time and will be very much worth the wait to

12 Philippe Cheron, Nuits Saint Georges Philippe Cheron lost his long time management role at Domaine Belland following the sale of the business. He must have been chuffed to learn that his grandfather, Paul Misset, purchased vineyard land in Clos Vougeot, Vosne Romanee and Chambolle Musigny in the 1930s and 1950s and the leases had finally expired. There are 1.4 hectares in Clos Vougeot, split 50/50 between the high and low part; a stunning lieu dit above Richebourg in Vosne and 12 tiny parcels in Chambolle. With gentle handling, only a little de-stemming, cool settling and no fining and rarely any filtration, Philippe is going for a simple and natural style. It s wonderful to watch the development of a grower so determined to express wonderful fruit. He is now fully organic. Vosne Romanee les Barreaux 2016 This is the most heavenly situation. Just under the trees and looking down over Richebourg and Romanee Saint Vivant to the right and, to the left, over the great 1er Crus of Beaux Monts and Suchots towards Echezeaux and Clos Vougeot. There are only 3 growers to share a little over 3 hectares (one other being Anne Gros); quite a picnic spot! The wine is spectacular in its depth and floral perfection. A breakthrough vintage for Philippe! 2020 to Chambolle Musigny Cuvee 2016 This was one of the areas damaged most heavily by the frosts of April 29th. Philippe has 4 climats of village wine and a 1er Cru. In 2016 he has taken the best fruit from all of them and made one single 'Cuvee'. The nose is clinically clean, bright, juicy fruit Pinot and with hint of leafy spice. Cool, lifted and no rough edges at all. Picture perfect to

13 Domaine Faiveley, Nuits Saint Georges Approaching two centuries of Faiveley expertise we see the fruits of that experience in this selection of domaine wines (from vineyards owned and managed by the family). Perhaps more importantly the brilliant Jerome Flous has now overseen the entire process from vineyard to bottle for a decade now. The influence of new oak generally tends to be 50%-65% for the Grand Crus, between 35%-50% for Premier Crus and 15% at village level. For whites, there are 40% new oak barrels for the Grand Crus and 15-20% for the Premier Crus. Overall, these wines are now fresher and fruitier than in the past, yet with real intensity. Concentration and richness is achieved by a seemingly more deft hand in the winery that favours melding elegance and fruit concentration with structural power. Mercurey Clos Rochette Monopole 2016 Blanc (12) This impressive site between Mercurey and neighbouring Rully was once shared between Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but the prevalence of white limestone argued for replacing the former with more Chardonnay fruit. This delicious 2016 wine is a blend of 20% fermented in new barrels and 80% in stainless steel, arguably giving the virtues of both, i.e. some clean oak accents, lush creamy green apple and green melon richness and a lively freshness on the finish. A very good effort considering the price. Drink now to 2025 Mercurey la Framboisiere Monopole 2016 Rouge Just a little more approachable, supple and concentrated, Framboisiere is a well sited, sunny plot meandering southward toward the village. Uplifting and typically Pinot for early drinking to

14 Mercurey 1er Cru Clos de Myglands 2016 Rouge (12) The 2016 Clos des Myglands is only slightly more structured and broader than the Framboisiere, with more of an earthy cranberry, cherry character. Sweet, round and fleshy with great upfront fruit, moderate tannins and plenty of body, this mouth-filling wine should provide enjoyable drinking over the next 8 to 10 years. Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moine 2016 This has a medium dark red cherry colour and a cranberry and cherry blossom scented bouquet with fine delineation, sleek texture and vibrant fresh vigour. The palate retains a softness with plenty of sweetness on the entry, candied red fruit and a light sorbet-fresh finish. Very classy as always. Drink from 2020 to 2030 Corton Clos des Corton Grand Cru Monopole 2016 The Clos des Cortons Grand Cru has an attractive nose of brambly black fruit, briary and a touch of potpourri. The palate exerts a gentle grip on the entry: quite citric in the mouth, lively and energetic acidity and wonderfully complex on the finish. Give this a couple of years to soften and you should have a very enjoyable Corton Grand Cru. Drink from 2020 to 2035 Clos Vougeot 2016 The bright ruby coloured Clos Vougeot exhibits great aromatics of roses, violets and Asian spices and is concentrated, well-structured, powerful, full-bodied and vivacious in the mouth, showing sweet, fleshy, red berry fruit tinged with cinnamon spice. This outstanding wine has a ripe tannic backbone that will benefit from moderate cellaring. Drink from 2022 to 2035 Latricieres Chambertin Grand Cru 2016 Faiveley`s 2016 Latricieres Chambertin Grand Cru has a ravishing, pure and sensual bouquet with red cherries and crushed strawberry fruit laced with minerals. It needs another two or three years to fully mellow and integrate. The palate is beautifully balanced with fine tannin, very focused and tensile with shimmering, effervescent red fruit fanning out on the bright, crunchy finish. Stunning effort. Drink from 2020 to

15 Domaine Roche de Bellene, Beaune Nicolas Potel s own vines have been hard hit and so much of the yield is incorporated into Maison Roche de Bellene wines. Once again this Beaune is a joy and excellent in the short and medium term. Beaune 1er Cru Cinquantenaire 2016 From five vineyards the youngest vines are 50 years old. On the Savigny side Clos du Roi, Les Bressandes and Toussaints are of the best known for softer, more appealing Beaune fruit. On the Pommard side, a little more dense and firm, are the neighbouring vineyards of les Sizies and Pertuisots. This idea works. The wine has many layers of complexity and texture. It is deep and sensuous, with chocolate, mocha and vanilla spice notes with a sprinkling of dusty tannins. One of few wines in Beaune that is certainly better than the to Maison Roche de Bellene, Beaune Nicolas Potel's latest trick is to manage the red wine cellars by candle light as normal lighting damages the resveratrol; a key compound in the cholesterol reducing properties of red wine. Ageing is more and more in larger barrels and there are now soft wax capsules for Grand Crus. Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru les Folatieres 2016 Gorgeous, profound and open nose of mandarin peel, stephanotis, dried fruits and vanilla. Pure, cool, lifted, with a hint of minerality. Very good, honest and representative Puligny with all round appeal to Bourgogne Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes 2016 Made from selected old vines this has long been a popular red at Handford. This year it has some Beaune and Volnay 1er Cru fruit. It is very serious, cool, lifted and with bright acidity. Very good indeed to

16 Chorey les Beaune Vieilles Vignes 2016 As in 2015 this is a stand out bottle; crisp, red apples, redcurrant and a dash of loganberry and even bramble juice on the finish. Poised, energetic, defined and clearly made with a lot of love to Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru les Fuees 2016 Immediately adjacent to Bonnes Mares, this is super soft and seamless, with concentrated red fruits, a hint of caramel and salty mineral notes on the finish. Plenty to this red of great provenance. Exceptional to Latricieres Chambertin Grand Cru 2016 Easy on the eye, cool, rounded fruits with integrated oak and a delicate but very obvious sweet spice side! The power alone will give this good cellar potential to 2038 Charmes Chambertin 2016 Quite superb! You can almost chew on these endless layers of fruit. There is perfection in its harmony, super fine skeleton of lacy acids and ripe tannin. The concentration is almost numbing to the palate to 2042 Griotte Chambertin 2016 A very much reduced yield here has resulted in a ripeness that is almost raisined. Though lighter, and more Gevrey in its colour and fine nose, the depth and welcoming flavours of nougat, sandalwood and cinnamon are showy in the extreme. Both delicate red fruits and the opulence of ripe briar and currant fruit add to the complexity and poise to Le Chambertin 2016 Tough to see through the glaze of new oak, this one is very closed now and will need 15 years or more to begin to open. A modern classic to 2047 Richebourg 2016 (3) Romanee Saint Vivant 2016 (3) These two together are quite extraordinary. The RSV is the deeper, more coloured and with brooding spice. Both show a focussed concentration of sweet red fruits, a hint of mure and some liquorice and sweet spice from the oak. More importantly both are fresh, lifted and stylish. In many ways the perfect profile of a great en Primeur Burgundy and wines for enjoying and appreciating at many stages to

17 Domaine de Comte Armand, Pommard After a seven year apprenticeship, the capable Paul Zinetti has taken over here and done an exceptional job under the tricky conditions. Very different from 2015 but still mighty fine and ageworthy reds. Fully organic since 2005 and now certified as biodynamic, the lower parts of the vineyard are worked by horse and the reduced compaction is already resulting in a better soil structure. Epeneaux is, of course, one of the great reds of the Cotes de Beaune. Auxey Duresses 1er Cru 2016 It has always felt strange that I have to work so hard for a few bottles of this one. Tasting it again I see the attraction in its gritty, earthy solidity married perfectly to a supple, forward and beautifully ripe fruit style. The combination of some shelter, southerly aspect along with the greater elevation results in a red with a bit of difference. Excellent to Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux 2016 Also available in Magnums (3) At just over 5 hectares, this is one of the largest monopole vineyards in Burgundy. It is managed biodynamically and with utmost respect not only for the vineyard, but for the expression of its constituent parts. Paul is finding much more intensity from the younger vines now, especially given the reduced yields in This is extraordinary; I have been deliberately mean on my Cotes de Beaune red orders but this is one that edges the to

18 Michel Lafarge, Volnay In recent years, Michel Lafarge s reds have become the most sought after in the Cotes de Beaune. He is a committed and studious man who appears to have arrived at a near perfect formula. Of his 8 hectares, only one is of 1er Cru standing, but their fruit combines delicious Pinot flavours with layers of firm mineral character and delicate vanilla from a short-ish oak ageing. I have noted consistent depth, complexity and perfect balance across the range. The domaine is now run by Michel s son Frederic. There are small quantities of the famous Volnay 1er Crus. Please ask. Bourgogne Aligote Raisins Dorees 2016 (12) A patch of very old vines that tends to ripen with a heavier colour and flavour. Raisins Dorees is a clone or type of Aligote, perhaps best know at the Bouzeron estate of Aubert de Villaine. A remarkable wine that benefits from a couple of years in bottle. Picked quite late (18 th Sep) this gives a malty crunch with pear and quince fruit. It s astounding stuff to Bourgogne Passetoutgrains a l'exception 2016 (12) As ever this is half Pinot and half Gamay. The vines, planted by Frederic's grandfather, are now over 90 years old and the planting is mixed and so this is a 'field blend' from an exceptional site just below Meursault. Frederic tells me that, with such old vines, meagre yields and small berries it is not always easy to tell the Gamay from the Pinot in the field, especially as they seem to synchronise their ripening naturally. This was the first wine to be bottled and sold directly from the domaine since Fleshy cherry, plum, raspberry and apple. A fruit compote for drinking when it arrives in the late autumn to 2023 Bourgogne Rouge 2016 (12) Another parcel of very old vines; these are 50+. There s a bit of debate over the value of old vines at the moment. One of the strong arguments for is that the vignerons are in tune with the vine that they have grown up with. Frederic would have seen every vintage in the life of this vineyard. He offers a profound Pinot with focus, some density and opulence, and with complexity. Tastes higher than its rank and will cellar very well to Volnay 2016 (12) Grainy dark chocolate richness with ripe, red cherry and herbs. The richesse seems to be amplified on the finish by a lovely texture of acidity. Wondrous. Note there is not enough to produce the Vendanges Selectionnees this year and so the village Volnay is a very much more serious wine to

19 Thierry Matrot, Meursault Now run by Adele and Ailsa Matrot, the third daughter, being established with her chef partner at the hotel le Chevreuil in Meursault; highly recommended of course. The red Meursault, La Piece sous le Bois is as great as ever, forming part of a new and exciting range of unsung Beaune reds to add to what are some of the most important Chardonnay holdings in the village. Bourgogne Chardonnay 2016 Sadly the village Meursault and the best of the young Chardonnay vines were far the worst hit by the frosts. As is often the case the effects can be extremely localised, but also devastating. So the 2016 is a little more from higher up in Saint Romain and from the southern reaches of Burgundy. It does lose a little of the Meursault character but gains richness in youth that makes it just the thing for next summer. Meursault 2016 Perhaps the most restricted of our regulars which is a shame. The final wine is exceptional in its bright and definite apple and grapey flesh, fine acid and mineral note and with no stone in the mouth left unturned. Ailsa and Adele can be truly proud of this bench mark wine; the Matrot Meursault makes a fascinating blind tasting going back 8 to 10 years and this tricky vintage in quantity will sit high in the quality rankings to Meursault 1er Cru Blagny 2016 A big favourite in 2016, the bowl shaped Blagny vineyard sits high up above the conjunction of Meursault and Puligny. It has not completely avoided frosts but it has certainly enjoyed the late summer sunshine. What a combination of intensity and minerality. Extra fragrant, white flower, orange peel, white pepper, peach skin and it`s way more expressive and finely balanced with acids than I would have hoped. Truly fine white this to Meursault 1er Cru Charmes 2016 I remember the 2015 being soft, deep yellow and rounded. The 2016 retains a touch of silver green and a hint of citrus but, by and large, this is a cool, lush, creamy style that lives by its allure. Charmes and Blagny; ying and yang to

20 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru les Chalumeaux 2016 On the Meursault side but, in fine years like 2016, there is more lift and purity of a classical Puligny. Fine acids, white nectarine, some riper peach in appealing layers of fruit and with a floral finish. Nature seems to have done its thing here. There was no heavy battonage, never much more than 1 new barrel in 5 or 6 and again, some extra time in cuve give this time to knit together and settle. A thing of beauty to 2016 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru les Combettes 2016 Tasted from a less than half full tank this shows a little more solidity, muscle and age worthiness than Chalumeaux. Sadly there will be so little to compare with the Chalumeaux to 2027 Meursault 1er Cru les Perrieres 2016 The Matrots have half a hectare here which is a pretty decent holding in what is possibly the finest 1er Cru white vineyard. The vines are 50 and 55 years old producing a miserly 200 dozen in a normal year but just half of that in Wines are allowed a longer rest in tank following the assemblage. The Perrieres was last in line to be bottled and this is massive in Great slabs of ripe pineapple and stone fruit knock around the palate like skittles and the pure, natural acid feel is a great foil for this. Huge lift on the finish to Maranges 1er Cru la Fuissiere Rouge 2016 A red wine village just below Chassagne as the Cotes de Beaune tapers to a more undulating landscape. It offers generous cherry and raspberry fruits that are ripe for drinking in the first few years of life to Blagny Rouge 1er Cru la Piece sous le Bois 2016 A favourite at Handford, but very rare in recent vintages; not since 2010 have close to normal yields been achieved. Blagny fans will need to wait until 2017 to really fill the cellars. In the meantime pick up a six pack of 2106 as it looks to be the best we`ve had since 2009 and 10. Beautifully cool and seductive finish to

21 Domaine Francois Mikulski, Meursault Francois father was a Free Polish fighter at Arnhem. After the war he married Pierre Boillot s sister and determined to follow a life in the vines. Francois himself has travelled the world, purely for research purposes of course, and has become a sought after name in white Burgundy circles. The domaine was born from land inherited from Pierre and has been supplemented his wife, Marie-Pierre s family holdings. The vineyards are fully mature now with the newest plantings in les Poruzots now a quarter of a century old. Fruit is carefully selected, de-stemmed. There is a cool settling before fermentation and ageing in barrels. Francois uses around 20% new oak. There are some 450 litre barrels in the cellar now. Bourgogne Chardonnay 2016 An annual treat for a few clients, this is as close to Meursault as you get without writing it on the label. It s from 2 parcels on the eastern border of the appellation, Herbeaux and Lombois (long wood). Bold wine for the true gourmet. Another intense offering from Francois to Meursault 2016 This has those 100 year old vines in Limousin, some of the Poruzots fruit as well as the classic 3 parcels of Meix Chavaux, Charmes and Narvaux. The 2016 reflects the vintage and the purity of fruit on offer was made more with the stamp of Mikulski. Delicate, peach stone, white nectarine with a hint of quartz and a glassy clean finish. Super fine to

22 Meursault 1er Cru Poruzots 2016 Flinty, vanilla, apricot skin. More subtle, orange blossom and a delicate sandalwood note. The wine is aged in 450 litre barrels so relies a lot more on its natural concentration and acid balance to keep it in tip top quality and suitably age-worthy. Perfectly seamless to 2025 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes 2016 Two plantings here, one in 1930 and one in The older vines yield more core concentration and flatteur. The younger tend to the more lifted and natural, cool acidic feel. So the blend is nigh on perfect. Plenty of complexity here but, as so often with wines blended from more distinct components, it is very difficult to taste in its youth. Green apple and biting mineral moves to a creamy satin, almost voluptuous finish. Needs 2 or 3 years to settle to Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres 2016 Another more classical number and more like 2014 with citrus and fine acids dominating the front and notes of purity, harmony, fine and gentle complexity coming later. It s a very tight and perfectly formed flower bud of a white to Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2016 A year in barrel and racked into cuves and then, crucially, a 3 month rest on fine lees before bottling. This gives an extra dimension of cream texture, savoury notes and potential for ageing in bottle. There are many facets to this fine and firmly structured Pinot. One to keep for a couple of years before unleashing to 2023 Volnay 1er Cru les Santenots 2016 Often cited as the red burgundy from a white wine vineyard, this shows explosive, black cherry and loganberry. Sweet and concentrated fruits with an element of chalk and flint to balance. Plenty of finesse and freshness too. These reds from Mikulski are serious! 2021 to

23 Domaine Leflaive, Puligny Montrachet Harvesting began on 21 st September, very late for whites and over 3 weeks later than in The result is a range of outstanding complexity. Biodynamic, or back to nature, viticulture works; the health of the vines and their ability to endure the difficult early season has allowed for minimal intervention and maximum expression. These whites are as good as the great 2014s. Bourgogne Blanc 2016 Rich yet grippy at the same time there is peach juice, peach skin, peach stones and sweet citrus as well as a lovely expression of stony soils. Lifted, firm but fair on the long finish to 2022 Puligny Montrachet 2016 Always a great wine for the gourmand this; persistence and power on the nose, deep and mouth watering grapefruit and tropical fruits. More finesse and delicacy on the fine finish giving away its true pedigree. Not overly complicated but over delivers; happiness in a bottle to Meursault 1er Cru Sous le Dos d Ane 2016 A little more stern and youthful in structure and with frisky, citrus fruits. Being just below the great Perrieres vineyard this is packed with minerality and expression. Fill of character and with a real kick to it. Strong stuff and worthy of a few years in the cellar to 2026 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon 2016 There s a marked and plentiful middle palate to this; a bowl full of California cut fruit, even some light red cherry notes, a hint of coconut milk, a dusting of sweet spice and plenty of citrus freshness. You will sniff this a mile off and fall prey to the Siren of all white wines. Wonderful to 2025 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Folatieres 2016 More floral and lifted than Clavoillon we have another squeeze of lemon and more kiwi and passion fruit freshness. Even more finesse, silky and seamless texture and seductive coolness on the long finish. Truly fine and one of their best ever in my mind to

24 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Combettes 2016 It gets even better, but here you lose some of the initial opulence to the stern and forceful, pithy lemon acidity. Being on the Meursault side and from a vineyard known for longevity, we wouldn t expect this to be either perfumed or exotic. There is a definite expression of the land and we won t see that open, floral quality for 4 or 5 years. One for the cellar to 2029 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru les Pucelles 2016 A little easier on the eye and indeed shows a good blend of characters shown in the 1er Crus above. Some of the exotic (though perhaps more peach and apricot here), some of the lift and zing and a hint of the unyielding and youthful mineral. It is a little honeyed on the finish too to 2027 Batard Montrachet Grand Cru 2016 (3) Not dissimilar, but a little more highly strung with some taught acidity, more than a hint of oak character as well as a good mix of the sweet caramel and spice, the lively citrus zing and the silky, but not creamy texture. Needs a bit more time to 2032 Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru 2016 (3) Very fine and focussed on the nose; dominated now by gunflint and sheer lemon notes. Let those waft away and there are more exotic tones and even some secondary notes of spice and white truffle. Seems to tread very lightly over the palate to begin with but this is a smokescreen for a veritable onslaught on the mouth that comes to pass throughout the minute that follows. Astounding to

25 Domaines Leflaive (Formerly Leflaive & Associes), Puligny Montrachet Auxey Duresses 2016 Magnums Appealing and expressive 2016 white, this wine has a pretty bouquet of white flowers with a hint of acacia honey and dried fruits. On the palate, succulent white peach and stone fruit characters are balanced by a chalky mineral quality which gives a sense of control and added focus. True to all 2016s, the finish is clean and crisp with fresh crystalline acids.. Drink from release until 2025 Pouilly Fuisse 2016 Magnums A very elegant 2016 wine with a real sense of direction and purpose, it reveals a subtle bouquet of stone fruits and delicate citrus characters while the palate is refreshing and pure with soft white peach and green apple fruits. Restrained at first, this wine has plenty of depth and crisp acid freshness on the finish suggesting the potential for longer ageing. Drink from 2018 to 2024 Domaine Paul Pillot, Chassagne Montrachet Domaine Paul Pillot is one of those producers making whites with a real gleam, a luminous clarity. I taste hundreds of wines in burgundy week, and have to scramble through my notes to check in with my views on many of them, but with Domaine Paul Pillot I remember where the table was in the room, and where I was standing as the wine hit my taste buds. You just do with wines like that. Daily Telegraph, Jan 2015 Thierry Pillot and his father, Paul, are so understated that you wonder how anyone ever got to the end of the track at the end of the village. Their house, cellars and many of the vineyards are high up, overlooking Puligny and St Aubin. And this is the point; with many Chassagne properties farming low lying lands, this is an exception and the wines are exceptional. Sadly though, the great vineyards of Le Romanee, Ruchottes and Cailleret did not fair so well on that frosty morning in April. Very limited quantities here. 25

26 Chassagne Montrachet les Mazures 2016 Thanks to Paul`s shrewd acquisitions of vineyards his son Thierry has some wonderful plots to work with. His wines all tell a tale of minerality and purity. The 2016 is picture perfect offering a heady mix of cool lime, mineral and a touch of vanilla and caramel. Ideally drunk as an aperitif or with grilled fish to Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Clos Saint Jean 2016 This plot is high up and behind chez Pillot at the western end of the village. It did its best to avoid the frosts in an area that was hit very hard indeed. The fruit that remained developed into plump and juicy bunches to yield a supple early drinker along the lines of Lovely one to tuck into as the majority of these 2016s need a few years in the cellar to Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru les Grandes Ruchottes 2016 Along with Cailleret and la Romanee, this is the most noted of 1er Crus here. They are high to the south west side, facing south and east, and bear some resemblance in aspect and altitude as well as the meagre soil profile of Meursault Perrieres. Showing very little now as this is encased in a cocoon of vibrant grape skin acidity. The texture is creamy, almost oily, and the depth and concentration second to none. This is a remarkable vineyard consistently yielding wines of Grand Cru quality to 2030 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru les Caillerets 2016 A little more open, pure fruit and a slightly more delicate texture. Fruit salad and Turkish delight nose with a touch of spice and fresh ground almond here. Will cellar well but would be a shame to miss out on the youthful vibrancy so don't leave too long! 2020 to Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru la Romanee 2016 Made from 70 year old vines with 20% new barrels, this is a bold statement of a wine with immense concentration, layers upon layers of superbly defined yellow plums, quince and citrus fruit infused with liquid minerals, pine nuts and toasty oak. This broad shouldered, hedonistic offering has a superb fruit weight and intensity that is beautifully matched by freshness and lively pulsing acidity. There is array of oat richness, lemon sherbet and butterscotch notes in long, long finish to

27 Gerard Thomas, Saint Aubin Gerard is a kindly, robust and ruddy faced year round Santa, whose life has been dedicated to his vineyards. He has rebuilt some unusually precarious terraces, replanted and maintained his Chardonnay vines with pride. The first Saint Aubin 1er Cru is endearingly known as dog s tooth by many clients; old stone gate posts look like giant canines. The second takes its name from cats that bask in the sun. La Chateniere is one of the best wines of the village and represents great value. Gerard is going strong despite telling me he would pass the domaine to his daughters some 7 years ago. Isabelle and Anne are in control of a particularly good range of 1er Crus. Saint Aubin 1er Cru Murgers des Dents de Chien 2016 (12) The vineyard borders Puligny 1er Garenne. It is named after the tooth like stones that form the gate posts. This Handford favourite offers classical and intense white burgundy characters of peach skin, citrus, white flower and hints of soft caramel. Becomes more alluring and floral on the finish to Saint Aubin 1er Cru la Chateniere 2016 (12) Down the slope, and close to chez Thomas at the southern end of the village, the vineyard is named for the wild cats that bask in the warmth of this sun trap on the lower slopes. The Terraces were constructed by Gerard`s own hand, though many years ago now. So the `cat` sits more snugly in the palate, the fruits are little more exotic, though precise and balanced with fresh citrus. Broader shoulders and more age worthy this to Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru la Garenne 2016 (12) High up on the hillside, and virtually contiguous to the Murgers des Dents de Chien vineyard of Saint Aubin, this offers more density, plenty of mineral character as well as typical, lemon and nectarine fruits. It`s a more intense and more defined version of its neighbour. The wood is very well integrated here (they use 20% new oak across the range) to

28 Burgundy 2016 Order Form Wines offered subject to remaining unsold and in bond, London City Bond. No further shipment or administration charges apply. Shipment 2018 / early Storage offered, currently 0.96 (VAT incl) per case per month. Wines are priced in bond and so duty (currently per case of 6 x 750ml) and VAT (currently 20%) are charged prior to delivery. Delivery to UK Mainland Orders over 500 (ex duty and VAT) FREE Orders under 500 (ex duty and VAT) per delivery address How to order Call us on or fill in this form and to james@handford.net or come into our shop at 105 Old Brompton Road, SW7 3LE. You will be invoiced for payment by return. Name Address Post Code Telephone Some wines may have limited supplies. Are you willing to accept split cases/smaller allocations? Yes / No 28