New Zealand Pinot Noir

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1 This challenging grape variety produces myriad styles across this small country, says Bob Campbell MW. The one constant is that quality is continually improving Sauvignon Blanc might pay the bills, but New Zealand s rising reputation as a fine wine producer is largely due to Pinot Noir. In just a few decades it has gone from experimental to exciting as Kiwi winemakers get the measure of this challenging grape variety. The real miracle is not just how far Pinot Noir quality has grown, but that it continues to grow strongly every year. Pinot Noir vines were first planted in the 19th century but fell victim to phylloxera. The variety returned to Kiwi soil in the 1970s and was put on the map when St Helena s 1982 Pinot Noir from Canterbury scored a gold medal at a local wine show. A few years earlier, a scientific report noted that Martinborough had a climate that was similar to Burgundy. A few hopefuls including Ata Rangi, Martinborough Vineyards and Dry River bought land and planted Pinot in the alluvial gravel terraces of Martinborough. Other regions soon followed, although high-quality Pinot Noir production is restricted to the southern part of the country from central Hawke s Bay down to Central Otago. It should be noted that the majority of the Pinot Noir grown in Hawke s Bay and Gisborne is used in sparkling wine production. Every region from Hawke s Bay south can make top Pinot. Regional differences are sometimes obvious but can be blurred by vineyard aspect (hillside versus plains), sub-regional variation (cooler Gibbston sites vs hotter Bendigo conditions in Central Otago) and, of course, viticultural and winemaking methods. Vintage variation adds further complexity. Focus on quality In the early years of New Zealand s short Pinot Noir history the simple, fruity, accessible wines were very different to the more structured, austere and complex Burgundy benchmark. That stylistic gap has narrowed as winemakers grow in confidence and experience. Harvesting earlier to achieve more savoury complexity and lower alcohol levels; a higher percentage of stems in the ferment for greater structure and future complexity; and a period of maturation that closely resembles the Burgundian approach have been adopted by many of the country s more adventurous winemakers. Effectively 10% of Pinot Noir vineyards are now sustainable, with a growing number adopting organic and biodynamic methods, Central Otago leading the charge. Many of the country s older vineyards have now celebrated their 30th birthday too, giving their wines greater concentration and consistency. However, one of the biggest drivers of Pinot Noir quality is not vine age, organic viticulture or the use of whole bunches during fermentation, but an annual workshop where the country s Pinot winemakers gather to critique each other s bottlings and discuss ways in which they might be improved. 1 Gisborne 5 Marlborough 2 Hawke s Bay 6 Canterbury 3 Wairarapa 7 Central Otago 4 Nelson N Other wine regions Tasman Sea SOUTH ISLAND 4 Nelson 5 Lake Wanaka Timaru Waitaki Gibbston Bendigo Valley Alexandra Dunedin Auckland : know your vintages 2015 Very good to excellent across key regions; Marlborough and Martinborough in the lead and Waipara close behind More variable. Marlborough gets top vote. Early charmers in Central Otago. Tricky time in Waipara A top vintage; Martinborough, Central Otago and Canterbury, leading the way. Otago wines are structured and should cellar well Consistently very good everywhere 7 6 with Central Otago marginally in front. Cook Strait 3 Pacific Ocean 1 Gisborne Napier Hastings Martinborough Wellington Blenheim Waipara Christchurch 2011 Marlborough and Canterbury are good. Cool and wet in Central Otago drink up Very good in all regions, particularly Martinborough Big, ripe and accessible Central Otago wines, and cooler styles in Marlborough; average elsewhere Cool, rain-affected vintage. Some good wines but variable results. 0 NORTH ISLAND 2 N E W ZEA L AND kilometres 300 NZ Pinot: the facts Pinot Noir production (2015) 25,763 tonnes Pinot Noir vineyard area (2014) 5,492 hectares Pinot Noir plantings (2014) Marlborough 2,492ha; Central Otago 1,484ha; Wairarapa 500ha; Waipara 344ha; Hawke s Bay 311ha; Nelson 241ha; Canterbury 72ha; Gisborne 48ha Bob Campbell MW is the Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Chair for New Zealand Map: Maggie Nelson DECANTER September 77

2 The results With 116 wines Recommended or above, and many as low as 11, this was a succesful tasting from the best Pinot-producing country outside France, says Christelle Guibert Outstanding 95 97pts With 172 wines on show, from a country that has built up a reputation for phenomenal Pinot Noir, it was not surprising that our three experts were excited about this tasting; expectations were very high. Philip Tuck MW believes that New Zealand makes the best Pinot Noir outside France a view shared by Christine Parkinson. It s definitely the best New World producer at the moment, though there are other countries trying to catch up, she said. What makes New Zealand interesting is the combination of fruit purity, the delightful acidity thanks to a relatively cool climate, intelligent winemaking and moderate alcohol levels. The panel had mixed views on regionality. Tuck didn t think that distinct characteristics were obvious. As with Burgundy, you get more winemaker influence in Pinot Noir, and this will probably override any regional characters. I suspect regionality may come with vine age. Parkinson pointed out, it s not that the vines are 30 years old in a country that s been growing Pinot for five centuries. It s a country that has only been growing grapes for 30 years, so everything is still a learning curve for producers. Melanie Brown praised the relatively new South Island region of North Canterbury The wines showed elegance and purity, and were exceptionally approachable. It s a slightly different style to all the other regions and I think it s one to watch for Pinot. Parkinson and Brown felt Martinborough and Central Otago were the most promising regions with distinct personalities. Brown described Martinborough s wines as generous, savoury and broader on the palate, while Central Otago was more fruit-forward and opulent. Our experts came to the tasting with a idea that Marlborough was going to be the best region but were left rather disappointed. Parkinson found the wines inconsistent. We saw some very different styles which The judges Melanie Brown Driven by the desire to highlight New Zealand s most exciting producers, Brown played a fundamental role in transforming the wine list of chef Peter Gordon s The Providores and Tapa Room in London into the largest offering of premium New Zealand wine in the UK. From this she established her own wine retailer, The New Zealand Cellar, followed by a wine bar and shop in Brixton. : The fruit purity was excellent and the general quality of the tannins was vey good Philip Tuck MW suggests that Marlborogh should promote its subregions sooner rather than later. Brown agreed: The sub-regions in Marlborough are so different, diverse and dynamic. It is a shame that producers aren t showcasing or telling the world about them. The experts were unanimous in their praise for the winemaking. Tuck said the standard was admirably high: The fruit purity was excellent and the general quality of the tannins was very good. Parkinson found the wines sophisticated with (apart from the odd few) not too much oak. Generally there is an understanding that the fruit is important and winemakers let the variety speak for itself. But she drew an important parallel with the French heartland of Pinot Noir. Much as it is in Burgundy, even if you know your regions, the key to getting a good wine is to know your producers. Pinot is a very demanding grape to make a good wine from, and I think it will come down to individual producers as much as regions. I think we are seeing a glimmer of that happening now and it will be increasingly important over the next few years. When it comes to how and when to drink these wines, the panel felt that many of them need to be enjoyed within a few of years of the vintage, perhaps with the exception of those from Martinborough. Parkinson praised their suitability to food: These aren t fruit bombs they are sophisticated wines that will stand up really well to food. This is a marker of their quality and the potential the country still has with this variety. Christine Parkinson Parkinson started her career as a head chef, gaining responsibility for 39 restaurants. She then decided to follow her passion for wine and, in 2001, created the first wine list for chef Alan Yau s Hakkasan Group in London. She is a regular judge at wine competitions and has been called one of the most creative wine buyers in the UK by Jancis Robinson MW. Phillip Tuck MW The scores 172 wines tasted Exceptional 0 Outstanding 7 Highly Recommended 34 Recommended 75 Commended 43 Fair 11 Poor 2 Faulty 0 Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latestrelease, UK-available, 100% Pinot Noirs from New Zealand. Two wines per producer were permitted. Tuck MW has been in the wine business for 30 years, starting straight out of university in 1986 at Averys in Bristol. He then worked for wineries in countries including South Africa, New Zealand, Australia, USA, Chile and Italy. He returned to the UK in 1994 to help set up UK wine agency Hatch Mansfield and he became a Master of Wine in Lowburn Ferry, Home Block, Lowburn, Central Otago 2014 Decanter average score: 96/100pts Individual judges scores: Melanie Brown 96 Christine Parkinson 96 Phillip Tuck MW AC Gallie, Averys, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Daniel Lambert, Ellies Cellars, Hawkshead, James Nicholson, Love Wine, Vagabond, Worcester Wines, Grape & Grind, Slurp, South Downs Cellars, St Andrews Wine Co Owners Roger and Jean Gibbson have lived in the Lowburn Valley of Central Otago for 25 years and recognised the viticultural potential of a north-facing slope on their property. Roger holds a Masters degree in applied science and works part-time as a viticultural tutor at the Otago Polytech, while Jean has a degree in horticultural science. Their vineyard has been pasture for more than 100 years and is rich in organic matter. Melanie Brown Lovely cool-climate fruit fresh and vivid. Very pure with unforced concentration. Fantastic complexity with great length. Christine Parkinson Fragrant, ripe red berry aromas then plum and watermelon flavours framed by dark, savoury oak. Very supple texture. Phillip Tuck MW Gloriously bright with wonderful farmyard nuances and a distinct mushroom edge. Complex, savoury layers. Truly beautiful. Drink - Alcohol 13.5% Greywacke, Marlborough MB 95 CP 95 PT Liberty Wines, Noel Young, The New Zealand Cellar, Villeneuve Kevin Judd was the founding winemaker at Cloudy Bay and directed the company s first 25 vintages until establishing his own label in The grapes for this wine were grown in Marlborough s Pinot Noir sweet spot the clay-loam-gravel soils of the Yarrum Vineyard on the Brancott/Ben Morven ridge in Marlborough s Southern Valleys. Judd makes his wine at Dog Point winery, owned by colleagues James Healy and Ivan Sutherland, also ex-employees of Cloudy Bay. This wine is the product of a fine vintage, sensitive viticulture and stellar winemaking. MB Extremely expressive and aromatic with lots of depth and purity. The oak is marvellously balanced by the concentration of ripe, textural fruit. The finish is very long and lingering. Excellent! CP Woody black cherry and autumnal aromas. The ripe, sweet fruit is well balanced by crisp, juicy acidity, neatly framed by spicy oak. Long. PT A lovely vegetal character on the nose is backed up by opulent fruits which imbue the palate with brightness. Impressive complex structure, succulent oak, sweet ripe fruits and a tantalising, spicy playfulness. Drink - Alc 14% Giesen, Clayvin Single Vineyard Pinot Noir, Marlborough MB 95 CP 95 PT Ehrmanns, Lay & Wheeler, Olivers Beer & Wine, Stone Wines, Winedown Clayvin was Marlborough s first hillside vineyard and has produced some of the region s very best Pinot Noirs. Established in 1991 this organically farmed site is planted on complex, clay-based soils with high-density vines to produce low yields of quality grapes. The Clayvin vineyard has a reputation for producing long-lived wines that develop great complexity. Giesen purchased this 13.4ha vineyard in 2015 after sourcing grapes from it since 2011 and leasing it since MB Real aromatic complexity, depth and purity enhanced by welljudged oak. Ample mid-palate fruit, but not at all jammy. Exquisite! CP Intensely seductive liquorice and tar aromas then a complex palate of baked fruit and toast. The fruit undertones are precise and pure, while the smoky, chewy, peppery notes add another level of wonder. PT Richly textured and intense black fruits are bright and vibrant and intermingle with wonderfully well-rounded oak which is enticing and warm. Spot on! Drink - Alc 14.5% Palliser Estate, Great Hector Pinot Noir, Martinborough MB 95 CP 95 PT Justerini & Brooks Palliser Estate is not one of the earliest Martinborough producers, but it is one of the best thanks, at least in part, to the experienced and thoughtful winemaker Allan Johnson. In very good vintages, usually once every two years, a barrel selection is made to produce a wine for their small batch Great Dogs series. In this case eight barrels were selected from a total of about 400. The blended wine had a 25% whole-cluster component for extra structure and complexity. MB A nose of real charm and elegance. Beautifully balanced palate which is not jammy or lean and has a luscious concentration. A graceful grip on the finish, which exudes length and complexity. CP Heavenly floral and coffee-bean aromas roll into candied peel and ripe plum flavours. Full of power with tremendous complexity: vegetal, nutty and black-fruit driven. Very exciting. PT Dazzling wild strawberries on the nose and palate: attractively poised and welcoming. Personable, authentic, charming and very long. Drink Alc 13.5% 78 September DECANTER DECANTER September 79

3 Outstanding (continued) 95 97pts Highly Recommended 90 94pts Mount Brown, Pinot Noir, Waipara, Canterbury MB 95 CP 95 PT Davy s Wine Merchants Mount Brown has been making wine from three vineyards for a decade. Vineyard manager Andrew Florance believes the sites are among the warmest in Waipara. The 2014 vintage was such a wet and challenging one that instead of making a regular label and the more exalted Grand Reserve, the family owners elected to make two wines wines called Tier 1 and Tier 2. Tier 1 developed so well in the bottle they changed their mind before release and re-christened it Grand Reserve while this entry-level Pinot was previously the Tier 2. Mount Brown has gone from zero to hero in the past two vintages, offering excellent value. MB Lifted and overt Pinot fruit that is highly perfumed without being overripe. Very attractive with impressive concentration. CP Fresh crunchy red cherry and berry on the nose and palate, interspersed with delightful savoury notes. Light but concentrated, with real purity of fruit; juicy, elegant and refreshing. Very expressive. PT Vibrant and intriguing. A provocative mix of red fruit, delicate florals and spices. The tannin structure is poised and graceful a welcome factor which complements the brilliant fruit concentration. Pegasus Bay, Pinot Noir, Waipara, Canterbury MB 95 CP 95 PT Bentley s Wine Merchants, Caviste, Fortnum & Mason, Highbury Vintners, Lea & Sandeman, New Zealand House of Wine, St Andrews Wine Co, The Vineking, Woodwinters The 2013 vinatge was a stress-free dream in Waipara with a mild spring, warm summer and lingering autumn. Pegasus Bay planted one-third of its 47ha vineyard with Pinot Noir with about 5% of the vines on their own rootstocks. By New Zealand standards the vineyard, planted 31 years ago, is relatively old, which contributes to the wines intensity and consistency. About a dozen different Pinot Noir clones are planted. MB Plump, voluptuous and generous on the nose with mounds of crunchy red fruit. Nicely clean and fresh with an enchanting palate of sumptuous black plums and alluring rich spice. CP A captivating, round, and silky style; the palate is broad, savoury and full of black fruit, with beguiling rose and ginger notes. The bright acidity and subtle oak give a charming balance. Long and satisfying. PT Animated and vibrant, with floral nuances backed by firm tannins. Suave structure and poise, showcasing layers upon layers of intensity. Wild South, Pinot Noir, 93 MB 94 CP 93 PT Bancroft, Concept Fine Wines, Hawkshead, Slurp, Simply Wines Direct, St Andrews Wine Co, The Art of Wine Vibrant crushed raspberries, spice, cocoa, liquorice and Darjeeling tea. Driven by acidity and showing earthy, nutty flavours that lead to a pretty finish. Drink - Alc 13% Walnut Block, Nutcracker, 92 MB 92 CP 90 PT Vintage Roots Bright, opulent dark fruits supported by spice and chocolate. Concentrated palate of walnut shell, leafy aromas and a ripe fruit core with light woodsmoke tones. Well-knit texture that is long and fresh. Drink - Alc 14.5% Black Quail Estate, Pinot Noir, Bannockburn, Central Otago MB 92 CP 92 PT Goedhuis & Co Initial jammy characters follow through onto lots of spicy oak, ginger and cinnamon giving way to a buttery nuttiness that is complex and charming. The balance is really quite seamless with a wonderful juicy texture. Impressive. Drink - Alc 13.5% Akarua, Pinot Noir, Bannockburn, Central Otago MB 90 CP 94 PT Harvey Nichols, Oz Wines, The New Zealand House of Wine, Wright Wine Co, The Vineyard (Surrey) Attractive development on the nose. Unfolds to a plethora of summer pudding fruit flavours and a touch of savoury gaminess. Smooth as chiffon. Drink - Alc 14% Wairau River, Reserve, 92 MB 89 CP 94 PT Ellis Wines, New Zealand House of Wine Varietal purity on the palate with good fruit concentration. Lovely strawberry, blackberry and leather notes that are light, crunchy and refreshing, underlined by wood shavings and pine needles. Vanilla and cocoa on the long finish. Drink - Drink 14% Mount Beautiful, Pinot Noir, Canterbury MB 94 CP 92 PT Genesis Alongside bright cherry notes, there is a compelling core of minerality that sits effortlessly on the palate. Pure, evocative Pinot character that is enticing and rich. Floral and earthy finish. Drink - Alc 13.5% Drink - Alc 14% Drink - Alc 14% Don t miss Decanter s flagship Fine Wine Encounter Saturday 12th and Sunday 13th November, 11am to 5pm This November Decanter will host its biggest Decanter Fine Wine Encounter of the year. Regarded as the highlight of the tasting calendar, this event brings together the most respected Old World and New World producers from around the globe in the elegant surroundings of the Landmark Hotel in London. With more than 100 of the world s best wineries in attendance, this is a rare chance to meet the winemakers and taste more than 600 fine wines all under one roof. Six top masterclasses are available. Book tickets today or call +44 (0) Schubert, Marions Vineyard, Martinborough MB 95 CP 95 PT AC Gallie, Ellis Wines, Love Wine, New Zealand House of Wine, Vincognito Schubert makes two flagship Pinot Noir labels: the more structured Block B and this more approachable, but no less intense wine. It s made from just two Pinot Noir clones: the Pommard clone and so-called Abel clone which is rumoured to have been taken from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti s La Tâche vineyard and is exclusive to New Zealand. From a top vintage and made with an eye on quality from vineyard to bottle, this wine is a true expression of vineyard. MB Bewitching floral purity on the nose. Impressive depth of character which is enchanced by well-managed oak that is beautifully integrated with the silky tannins to give a fresh, elegant finish. CP Café au lait notes are woven around cooked damson flavours, giving a round, supple wine. The tannins are fleshy and gorgeously smooth. PT Lusicously deep, mineral and attractive. A core fruit structure and superbly integrated oak tannins. Great attitude, confidence and poise. Drink - Alc 14.5% Cloudy Bay, Pinot Noir, 92 MB 90 CP 91 PT Drinkmonger, Harrods, Nickolls & Perks, The Oxford Wine Co, Woodwinters Rich floral charm and compelling aromas of cherry compote, toast and forest floor. Lots of purity and concentration of spicy fruit on the mid-palate. A savoury herbal edge is chewy and refreshing. Drink - Alc 13.5% Nanny Goat Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Central Otago MB 93 CP 92 PT Waitrose Still young and tight but shows generous, pure, ripe fruit aromas. Vivid forest fruit and floral flavours are intertwined with cumin and ginger notes. The supple, creamy tannins have plenty of length and a structured finish. This will develop charm. Drink - Alc 14% Folding Hill, Pinot Noir, Bendigo, Central Otago MB 90 CP 94 PT Amps Fine Wines, Hennings, Noel Young, Oxford Wine Co, Reserve Wines, The Butlers Cellar, The Sampler, The Secret Cellar, Sheldon s, Woodwinters Rich, ripe, spicy nose, summer pudding palate and an almost exotic, intriguing sandalwood note. Understated with a lean profile but wellmanaged oak. Drink - Alc 14.2% Pegasus Bay, Prima Donna Pinot Noir, Waipara, Canterbury MB 94 CP 90 PT Field & Fawcett, Fortnum & Mason Hailsham Cellars, Harvey Nichols Highbury Vintners, Woodwinters Reductive initially but then black fruit, herbs and chocolate on the palate. Big-boned with hefty tannins, it is unforced; lots of charisma and richness here. Drink - Alc 14% Jackson Estate, Vintage Widow, Marlborougth MB 90 CP 94 PT Christopher Piper, Inverarity Morton, Majestic, Ocado Savoury and ripe strawberry aromas with generous and attractive blackberry and cherry fruit that is floral, lively and very long. It is a clean, pure, nicely balanced wine that is very drinkable. Drink - Alc 13.7% Tindall Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Marlborough MB 95 CP 90 PT Alexander Hadleigh, Christopher Piper, Cork & Bottle, Dorset Wine Co, Ex-Cellar, Rodney Densem, Rodney Fletcher, Roger Martin Wines, Sandhams Wine, Stainton Wines, The Cheddar Vine, Shenfield Wine Co, Wine Buffs Admirable silky texture, juicy black cherry fruit and violets backed by savoury herbs, spice and a baked clay note. Drink - Alc 13% DECANTER September 81

4 Highly Recommended (continued) 90 94pts Highly Recommended (continued) 90 94pts Forrest, Pinot Noir, Marlborough MB 90 CP 94 PT James Nicholson, The Vineyard, McEntee s Rich fruit tinged with cocoa and lavender, this wine is poised and cheerful. It has a slightly earthy nose underneath the pretty aromatics, with delicate cranberries and cherries on a sweet-savoury palate, then hints of coffee on the finish. Drink - Alc 13.5% Invivo, Pinot Noir, Central Otago MB 93 CP 90 PT Averys Coffee, plum and slightly rubbery aromas developing harmoniously with savoury oak and sweet raspberry fruit that is settled and poised. A vibrant acid core unfolds as it opens, being decidedly firm on the finish. Exudes charisma. Drink - Alc 14% Vidal, Reserve Pinot Noir, 91 MB 89 CP 90 PT Cambridge Wine Merchants, New Zealand House of Wine Attractive floral notes and vivid raspberry aromas that are balanced by plenty of vanilla on the palate and fresh fruit patisserie charm. It is light and pretty with good structure and weight. Drink - Alc 13.5% Mount Edward, Pinot Noir, Central Otago MB 92 CP 88 PT Alliance, Fine & Rare, Old Chapel Cellars, The Modern Pantry A little muted on the nose but very attractive understated fruit on the mid-palate: damson and heavily spiced oak that is rather chewy. Floral notes dance playfully around the palate. Drink - Alc 14% Felton Road, Pinot Noir, Bannockburn, Central Otago MB 92 CP 89 PT Cornish Point, Fine Wines Direct, Highbury Vintners, Oxford Wine Co, The Secret Cellar, Woodwinters Ever so slightly green on the nose, but it is a fresh and lively style fuelled by plentiful fruits flowing onto mocha notes. The spiky acidity is mellowed by a juicy finish and backed by fine tannins. Drink - Alc 13.5% Muddy Water, Pinot Noir, Waipara, Canterbury MB 90 CP 90 PT Corney & Barrow Rounded floral notes twinned with blackberry and pomegranate flavours, underlined by plenty of spice and backed by firm tannins. Balanced and soft without any hard edges; powerful and weighty right to the end. Drink Alc 14% Amisfield, Pinot Noir, Central Otago MB 90 CP 92 PT DBM Wines, Inverarity Morton Intriguing aromas of nuts, wet wood, dried red fruit and autumn leaves leading into a bright, curious palate driven by fruit that draws you back to the glass again and again. A fine texture and freshness albeit slightly muted on the fruit. Drink - Alc 14% Giesen, Small Batch Pinot Noir, 91 MB 88 CP 90 PT Appellation Wines, Burdett Wines, Ehrmanns, Last Drop, Shenfield Wine Co, Wine Importers Edinburgh Lifted floral and citrus aromas. There is cocoa, cinnamon, cloves and coffee mingling with a bright juicy palate of raw red berries and length from acidity. Drink - Alc 14% Kusuda, Pinot Noir, 91 MB 90 CP 90 PT BI Wines, Farr Vintners, Slurp Light for this region but very seductive, with blackberry and smoked almond aromas. Generous fruit palate with wonderful depth enhanced by cherry and herbal notes, with a long, fresh finish. Drink - Alc 13% Neudorf, Tom s Block Pinot Noir, Nelson MB 90 CP 89 PT Berry Bros Rudd, Carruthers & Kent, Highbury Vintners, Harvey Nichols, The New Zealand Cellar, Woodwinters Delicate nose of ripe berry fruit, coffee and liquorice. Enticing sweet and spicy fruit with subtle oak. Drink - Alc 13.5% These aren t fruit bombs they are sophisticated wines that will stand up really well to food Christine Parkinson Babich, Winemakers Reserve Pinot Noir, 90 MB 86 CP 89 PT Bibendum PLB Glossy, smooth and expressive with dominant oak but lots of ripe, sweet fresh fruit and spice. There is an attractive, generous Pinot florality with plenty of depth making it long and concentrated. Drink - Alc 14% Palliser Estate, Pinot Noir, 91 MB 92 CP 90 PT Justerini & Brooks Strangely muted aromas but brightness and juiciness unfold seductively across the palate to reveal oak spice framing a rush of fruit concentration. This is big but restrained; very clean and precise, finishing long. Drink - Alc 13.5% Rod Mcdonald, One Off Pinot Noir, 91 MB 90 CP 92 PT Soho Wine Supply, Steevenson Wines A nicely modest package of pretty, dark fruit aromatics leading through to the vanillaspiced palate, full of bright strawberry compote and ground almond flavours. This is fresh, vibrant and charismatic, full of appeal right to the end. Drink - Alc 14% Spy Valley, Pinot Noir, 91 MB 94 CP 92 PT Fine Wine Co, Winedirect A light, refreshing style that sees crunchy red cherry fruit, rhubarb and crushed raspberries on the palate mixed with wet stones and cress leaves that leaves it juicy, fresh and long. A slightly citric nose but wonderful acidity and tannin structure. Drink - Alc 13.5% HMS Acheron, Pinot Noir, Wairarapa MB 90 CP 91 PT Great Western Wine A broad dark palate of red fruit, sweet hay and truffle flavours folding into layers of tiramisu, liquorice and ripe plums. Slightly oxidative but lots of refreshing acidity backed by finegrained tannins and a refined structure. Drink - Alc 14% Johner, Pinot Noir, Gladstone, Wairarapa MB 90 CP 90 PT ABS Wine Agencies, Ex-Cellar, Spen Valley Wines, The Secret Cellar, The Wine Reserve, Walkers Wines, Winearray Creamy palate that is smooth textured with smoky red berry and citrus pith flavours flowing into sweet raspberry and Lapsang Souchong notes. Fresh acidity and chewy tannin structure. Drink - Alc 14.5% Mansion House Bay, 90 MB 92 CP 85 PT Great Western Wine A slight greenness on the nose that dissolves into opulent sweet fruit with lots of dark toasty oak and a spicy, peppery complexity. Charming layers of savouriness, juicy fruit and cocoa with length and balance to back it up. Drink - Alc 14% Valli, Bannockburn, Central Otago MB 90 CP 93 PT AC Gallie, Love Wine, New Generation McKinley Starting with a generous, fruit-forward nose, this leads to a palate of sweet, ripe raspberry and cherry fruit. The oak then dominates, but it is fresh and firm and should improve given its bold style. Drink - Alc 13.5% Craggy Range, Te Muna Road Vineyard, Martinborough MB 91 CP 91 PT Bibendum PLB, Waitrose An intense mix of dark berry fruits, mince pies and violets laced with liquorice and Sichuan pepper. A little too much CO 2 but it is balanced by a fresh, crunchy weight and gingery pepper notes on the finish. Drink - Alc 13.8% Johner, Reserve Pinot Noir, Gladstone, Wairarapa MB 88 CP 90 PT ABS Wine Agencies, Spen Valley Wines Reserved aromas but a delicious, pure fruit palate of sophistication and concentration. A savoury, inky wine, full of damson fruit and seasoned, quite aggressive oak. Muscular and juicy. Drink - Alc 14.5% Mohua, Pinot Noir, Central Otago MB 92 CP 88 PT Great Western Wine Opulent and rich with a wonderful array of dark fruits and bright florals. Quite a dry, firm style but some lovely raw cherry fruit and wet fern characters underneath, along with subtle Sichuan pepper and liquorice. Drink - Alc 13% Pisa Range, Black Poplar Block Pinot Noir, Central Otago MB 89 CP 90 PT Charles Mitchell Spice and floral notes plus lots of purple fruit aromas with wet leaves, bramble, mocha and sandalwood flavours. A rich and boisterous wine that s just ripe enough with generous oak that s not drying. Drink - Alc 14.5% Next month s panel tastings Uco Valley Malbec and Coastal Chilean Pinot Noir 82 September DECANTER DECANTER September 83

5 Recommended 86 89pts Wine Score MB CP PT Tasting note Alc Drink Price Stockists Recommended (continued) 86 89pts Wine Score MB CP PT Tasting note Alc Drink Price Stockists Nobilo Icon, Pinot Noir, A charismatic Pinot with black fruits and cherries that playfully tie in with good oak structure giving coffee and woodsmoke notes Matthew Clark Peregrine, Pinot Noir, New Zealand Fresh black fruit with a minty note and pleasant peppery character. Hints of wild flowers floating across the palate. Perhaps a little raw on the finish. 22 Carruthers & Kent, Great Western Wine, Woodwinters Wild Earth, Bannockburn, Central Otago Complex lavender and cherry compote nose with slight farmyard characters. Layers of spice, cocoa and minerality with sweet mid-palate fruit. 14.5% - 23 Carruthers & Kent, Liberty Wines, Nickolls & Perks, The Drink Shop, The Jolly Vintner, Woodwinters Saint Clair, Pioneer B Ripe fruit, chocolate and liquorice come through on the palate with oodles of Doctor s Ck, character and underlying smokiness and spice. 20 Majestic, NZ House of Wine, Great Wines Direct, Hailsham Wine Cellars, Cheers Wine Store, Noel Young, The Wine Man Ceres, Composition, Bannockburn, Cen Otago Dark fruit and grainy texture with seductive savoury nuances and an acid core that sits nicely with the fruit. Nicely risky with an impressive finish. 26 Catalyst Brands The Crossings, Awatere Valley, A lively palate of black cherries, wet earth and leathery oak aromas. Bright fruits capture the spirit of this wine, and minerality brings it to life. 11 Booths Summerhouse, Pinot Noir, Lovely purity of Pinot fruit here, slightly reduced but bright and charismatic with red berries and new suede aromas and attractive earthy, savoury notes. 18 Enotria & Coe, Great Wine Online, House of Townend, Last Drop Wines, Mr & Mrs Fine Wine, Wine Utopia Two Paddocks, Pinot Noir, Central Otago Smoky, wet leaf aromas lead to bright, ripe strawberry on the palate. Slightly oxidative with nice oak definition and some development on the nose AC Gallie, Corks Out, Hennings Wine, Highbury Vintners, Love Wine, Reserve Wines, Selfridges Wairau River, Pinot Noir, Savoury aromas which open up to a delicate expressive wine with pretty fruit and a distinct earthiness that is fresh on the palate. 17 Ellis Wines, New Zealand House of Wine Astrolabe, Province, A very accessible wine with a pretty floral nose and red berry compote, cinnamon and ginger spices on the palate. Clean, pure and integrated oak. 20 Ellis Wines, New Zealand House of Wine Mt Difficulty, Target Gully, Bannockburn, Cen Otago Evolved, slightly reductive notes on the nose and palate. A refreshing and interesting wine underneath that is maturing nicely over the grainy tannins Ellis Wines, Hedonism Ata Rangi, Pinot Noir, A little shy on the nose but it is evolved with savoury, mushroom notes. Rather angular tannins but there is marked acidity to lift Caruthers & Kent, Clos & Cru, Farr, Hailsham, Highbury, Majestic, The NZ Cellar, Wine Bear, Wright Wine, Woodwinters Paddy Borthwick, Pinot Noir, Wairarapa Serious, broad and muscular with generous Christmas cake, cherry and loganberry characters. Lots of sweet fruit but the savouriness is appreciated. 14.5% Armit, Cambridge Wine Merchants Bell Hill,, Canterbury A touch of reduction on the nose is pushed out by a palate of creaminess and toast. Slightly grainy tannins but good concentration of evolving flavour Armit Wines, H2Vin, Lay & Wheeler, The New Zealand Cellar Spy Valley, Envoy Outpost, Omaka, Marlborough There are sweet buttery notes from the dominant oak but it is softened by big Morello cherry flavours and real Pinot florality. 23 Fine Wine Co, Wine Direct Black Estate, Home, Waipara, Canterbury Earthy, smoky aromas with slight greenness on the palate. A subtle elegance in the mix of violets and mushroom flavours. Marked acidity on a mineral core The New Zealand Cellar Two Rivers, Altitude, A fine aromatic complexity of spicy cherry compote that leads into fresh straw, cinnamon and sweet, ripe red fruit on the palate. 30 Field & Fawcett, Old Butcher s Wine Cellar, Satchels of Burnham Market, The Wine Library, Woodbridge Wines Kalex, Pinot Noir, Central Otago A pleasing, rather confected nose and slight astringency on the palate. Subtle but attractive with fine grip, though a little short. 32 The New Zealand Cellar Catalina Sounds, Pinot Noir, Red fruit and liquorice twinned with subtle underlying savoury bramble notes gives a sense of purity, structure and poise to this beautifully ripe wine. 14 Noel Young, Hangingditch, Wines of Interest, Wine Unearthed Mt Difficulty, Long Gully, Bannockburn, Cen Otago Spicy, dark-flavoured wine with a powerful, developed nose that doesn t quite convey to the palate. Generous black fruit, liquorice and treacle Ellis Wines, Hedonism Craggy Range, Aroha, Violets and black tea leaf nose with slightly baked sweet fruit on the palate in a somewhat prosaic format. Fruit cake, high-acid and chalky tannins. 55 Bibendum PLB Mud House, Claim 431 Pinot Noir, Central Otago Quintessentially Central Otago: leather, cream and spice harmonising with black fruit and mushrooms. Slightly austere on the finish but big flavours. 25 Majestic Grasshopper Rock, Earnscleugh, Cen Otago Enticing floral aromas and flavours with notes of sage and parsely, making for an appealing sweet n sour nuance, along with a pure mineral core. 13.4% - 20 Naked Wines Muddy Water, Hare s Breath, Waipara, Canterbury Generous floral, slightly citrus nose. Weighty and substantial oak and evident alcohol are kept fresh by bright acidity, blackberry fruit and sweet spice. 14.5% Corney & Barrow Nautilus, Pinot Noir, Marlborough A lot of black forest gateau characters stand out in this wine chocolate, cherry, cream enveloped by spice and pungent woodsmoke notes AC Gallie, Christopher Piper, Love Wine, The New Zealand Cellar Paddy Borthwick, Paper Road Pinot Noir, Wairarapa Complex truffle and wet earth aromas leading to berry compote notes, then a deeply savoury but slightly disjointed smoked ham and redcurrant palate. 14.8% Armit, Cambridge Wine Merchants Villa Maria, Cellar Selection Pinot Noir, Marlborough Aromatic purity: a vibrant and juicy style and a solid black cherry core, framed by vanilla oak and interwoven with herbs and earthy notes Asda, Bargain Booze, Booths, Ellie s, Fenwick, Hailsham, Islington Wine, Majestic, NZ House of Wine, Sainsburys, Waitrose, Wells Wines Sacred Hill, Pinot Noir, Charming vibrancy on the palate with notes of black fruit compote. Concentrated fruit and stewed plum aromas: simple with some elegance. POA Kingsland Cloudy Bay, Te Wahi, Central Otago Some floral charm with a soft, silky texture and an intense core of damson and cherry, even though oak dominates slightly. 14.3% - 65 Jeroboams, Whole Foods Schubert, Block B, Stewed damson, lots of vanilla, rhubarb and custard flavours and aromas. Nicely plump on the mid-palate with a sweet n sour nuance. 14.5% AC Gallie, Ellis Wines, Four Walls Wine, Love Wine, New Zealand House of Wines, Wine Utopia, Vin Cognito Delta, Pinot Noir, Mocha and toast aromas unfold into dominant oak and intense fruit. This is bright and persuasive with a pleasing, enticing complexity. 17 Liberty Wines, Nickolls & Perks, Oz Wines Soho, McQueen, Central Otago Dark, brooding Pinot with spicy fruit character and liquorice and coffee framing raw blackberry fruit. A little reduced but gently grippy. 23 Soho Wine Supply Pounamu, Special Selection Pinot Noir, An appetising, juicy, fruit-forward style with richness in the red berry fruit, walnuts and cut grass on the palate. Vanilla oak offers a refreshing structure. 18 Vinultra Waimea, Pinot Noir, Nelson Fresh, opulent floral aromas with smoky, meaty oak flavours that are both clean and attractive, with a firmness to aid development. 13 Majestic Rockburn, Rockburn Pinot Noir, Central Otago Charmingly understated pure Pinot notes. Cherries and strawberries spiced with cloves, aniseed and florals unforced, with a charred tobacco oak note. 25 Bedales, Askew Wine, NZ House of Wine, Woodbridge Wine Waipara Springs, Pinot Noir, Waipara, Canterbury Delicate and refreshing, albeit slightly light. Compelling savoury palate enveloped in crunchy red fruit. Finishing with bitter almond and some grip Frontier Fine Wines, Great Grog, Martinez, Vineking, Dunells, Cheddar Vine, South Down Cellars The Long Trek, Pinot Noir, Central Otago Bonfire and wet chalk aromas the palate has an autumnal, savoury character. This is ageing delicately in a style of simple elegance The Vintner Black Estate, Damsteep, Waipara, Canterbury A compact, tasty palate with flashes of woodsmoke and dark fruit. Well supported by attractive tannins that could be slightly light and lean The New Zealand Cellar Allan Scott, Scott Base Pinot Noir, Central Otago A supple, glossy, slow-and-steady Pinot with forest-floor characters backed by leather, cedar and herbs along with personable red fruits. 17 Fine Wines Direct Domaine Rewa, Pinot Noir, Central Otago Slightly medicinal character on the nose but still a soft, ripe, juicy style. Some clean floral fruit on the mid-palate although a tannic finish. 33 H2Vin, New Street Wine Shop, The New Zealand Cellar Ata Rangi, Crimson Pinot Noir, Classically clean and pure, there is fresh citrus, honey and ginger on the nose, with orange zest and damson on the palate widely available via UK agent Liberty Wines Hunter'S, Pinot Noir, Marlborough A flamboyant, floral nose teamed with seductive raspberry, liquorice, coffee and more red berry flavours and crunchy limey fruit to lift Jeroboams, Laithwaites Babich, Pinot Noir, Red berry and bay leaf aromas open onto crushed wild strawberry fruit on the palate. Very delicate and clean. 14 Bibendum PLB Seifried, Aotea Pinot Noir, Nelson This is muscular, fruity and zesty, with juiciness on the palate. Attractive rich Pinot fruit and plenty of oak spice that is clean and crunchy. 23 Vintage Marque Clos Henri, Petit Clos Pinot Noir, Earthy, complex and enticing characters of tea leaf, fresh raspberry and dark plum. Simple but balanced and long with a rose petal finish. 14 Bijou Bottles, Bottle Apostle, Fulham Wine Rooms, Les Caves de Pyrène, The New Zealand Cellar Sileni, Plateau Pinot Noir, Hawke's Bay Quite a plump, rich style that has the depth to develop well. Opulent, zesty fruits on the nose, lending a real approachability to the wine D Byrne & Co, The Rare & Fine Wine Co, The Vineking, Nickolls & Perks Fromm, Clayvin, Brancott Valley, A subtle wine that is crisp and juicy, with smoothness that gives refinement and elegance. Plenty of structure and appeal The New Zealand Cellar, The Wine Co The Cloud Factory, Pinot Noir, Burgundian in style with an underlying savoury touch and minerality. A reductive note but layered with fresh dark fruit, spice and floral aromatics Blacker Hall, D Byrne & Co, Hawkshead, Highbury Vintners, Italian Continental Stores, Slurp, The Blue Glass, Woodwinters Jules Taylor, Pinot Noir, This starts well with pretty aromas of raspberry and violets that are bright and charming, coupled with concentrated ripe fruits on the palate Four Walls Wines, Huntsworth Wine Co, Noel Young, Raffles Fine Wines, The Haslemere Cellar, Vagabond Wooing Tree, Pinot Noir, Central Otago Restrained sweet hay and coriander seed notes and grippy, slightly drying tannins. Raspberry and cherry notes finish spicy and slightly warm Carruthers & Kent, Frontier Fine Wines, Wine Utopia, Drink Shop, Gerrard Seel Kalex, Alex K Pinot Noir, Central Otago Woodsmoke and vanilla wrapped around simple red fruits of freshness and vibrancy. Starts emphatically fruity, then layers of fine tannin take over. 16 The New Zealand Cellar Gladstone, Pinot Noir, Gladstone, Wairarapa A fragrant wine with black tea, cherry stone, strawberry, pepper and truffle nuances albeit with a farmyard edge. Serious tannins lifted by fresh juiciness. 18 Far Flung Wine Co, The Tasting Room, York Wines Tinpot Hut, Pinot Noir, A bright, cheerful wine that is simple and pleasant with vivid strawberry and coffee complexity, giving a pureness that is welcome and poised Askew, Carruthers & Kent, Cork of North, Drinkmonger, Hawkshead, Reserve, Slurp, The NZ House of Wine, Villeneuve Wines Seresin, Leah, Marlborough Slightly reduced on the nose but well-structured with marked acidity and grip on the finish. Pleasant florality with sawdust and raspberry compote notes. 21 The New Zealand Cellar, Wholefoods, Harvey Nichols, Loki, Park & Bridge, Planet of the Grapes, Wine Utopia Two Paddocks, First Paddock, Gibbston, Central Otago Raw berry fruit, wild mushroom and forest floor on the palate which unfolds explosively with leather and leafiness. Refreshing and rather chewy AC Gallie, Corks Out, Hennings Wine, KWM, Love Wine, Reserve Wines, Selfridges Soho, Havana, Marlborough Lovely crunchy and fresh red fruits with a spicy blackberry perfume clean and pure. A lot of dark oak but the depth of fruit remains poised. 18 Soho Wine Supply Domaine-Thomson, Surveyor Thomson, Central Otago Some developed mocha aromas. A savoury, meaty, evolved character with a silky tannin structure that enhances the experience of this wine Berry Bros & Rudd, The New Zealand Cellar Two Rivers, Tributary, Vibrant fruity rose petal perfume twinned with a fresh, sappy and juicy palate that has a ripe rhubarb and spice elements. 20 Corks Out, Lockett Bros, Spirited Wines, Tokes Food & Drink, Woodbridge Wines Hãhã, Pinot Noir, A floral style that is developing earthy, slightly reduced notes with underlying spicy, savoury flavours. The black fruit is juicy with a green rhubarb edge Dago Wines, VinumTerra Eradus, Pinot Noir, Awatere Valley, Playfully Pinot in character, with developing aromas of spice and herbs and tobacco, candied plum and earthy flavours. A complete package Corney & Barrow Maude, Mount Maude Reserve, Central Otago Jasmine, wood ash and wild mushroom aromas; a little reductive. There s sweetness on the palate from dark cherry fruits and a lovely intensity. 29 D Byrne & Co, The Hitchin Wine Co, Vagabond Wines Prophet s Rock, Rocky Point, Bendigo, Central Otago Aromatics fuelled by roses and violets with a certain purity and definition. Simple and earthy with walnut shell and prune notes. 18 Christopher Kellier 84 September DECANTER DECANTER September 85

6 Recommended (continued) 86 89pts Wine Score MB CP PT Tasting note Alc Drink Price Stockists Quartz Reef, Pinot Noir, Bendigo, Central Otago 2014 Rock Ferry Wines, Pinot Noir, Central Otago 2012 Villa Maria, Single Vineyard Seddon, Marlborough 2011 Waipara Springs, Premo, Waipara, Canterbury 2012 Zephyr, Pinot Noir, Akarua, Rua Pinot Noir, Central Otago 2014 Bell Hill, Old Weka Pass Road, Canterbury 2013 Carrick, Unravelled Pinot Noir, Central Otago 2014 Invivo, Michelle's Pinot Noir, Central Otago 2014 Jules Taylor, OTQ Series Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2013 Mokoblack, Pinot Noir, Pask, Kate Radburnd, The Edge, Pinot Noir, Commended 83-85pts n Auntsfield, Single Vineyard Pinot Noir, Southern Valleys, Marlborough , 14.5%, -, Cadman Fine Wines, Kingsgate Wines, The Oxford Wine Co, The Somerset Wine Co, Woods Wines n Cambridge Road, Pinot Noir, Martinborough , 13%, -2021, Les Caves de Pyrène, Highbury Vintners, The Good Wine Shop, Toasted n Domaine- Thomson, Explorer, Central Otago , 13.5%, -, Berry Bros & Rudd, The New Zealand Cellar n Kim Crawford, Pinot Noir, South Island , 13%, Askew Wines, Carruthers & Kent, Eton Vintners, Noel Young, The New Zealand House of Wine, The Secret Cellar n Mahana, Pinot Noir, Nelson , 13.5%, -, Bedales n Valli, Gibbston, Central Otago , 13.5%, -, New Generation McKinley n Blank Canvas, Pinot Noir, 85, 13%, -, Oz Wines, Liberty Wines n Burn Cottage, Pinot Noir, Central Otago , 13.6%, -, Vincognito, Liberty Wines n Escarpment, Pinot Noir, Martinborough , 13.5%, -, Frontier Fine Wines, Tanners, Cru London, Oxford Wine Co, Martinez, Great Grog, D Byrne n Framingham, Pinot Noir, 85, 13.5%, -, Les Caves de Pyrène n Gladstone, Jealous Sisters Pinot Noir , 14%, -, Aitken Wines, Cork & Cases, ND John, Noel Youg n Mount Edward, Morrison, Central Otago , 13.5%, -, Alliance Wine n Prophet s Rock, Home Vineyard Pinot Noir, Bendigo, Central Otago , 13.5%, -, 28 All About Wine n Seresin, Rachel, Marlborough , 13%, -, The New Zealand Cellar, Wine Utopia, Wholefoods, Highbury Vintners, DVine Cellars, Field & Fawcett, Salut Wines, Planet of the Grapes n Sherwood Estate, Pinot Noir, Waipara, Canterbury , 13%, -, Alliance Wine n Yealands Estate, Winemaker s Reserve, Gibbston, Central Otago , 14%, -, Enotria & Coe, Great Western Wine n Brancott Estate, Letter Series T Pinot Noir, Marlborough , 14.1%, -, Ocado, Tesco Wine Online n Folding Hill, Orchard Block Pinot Noir, Bendigo, Central Otago , 14.2%, -, Big boned, ripe dark fruits coupled with an earthiness that is quite appealing. A little clumsy but generous and commanding with a silky tannin structure A juicy, fruity, rather compact style. Damson and black pepper gives way to a lively acid core, however there s a slightly pinched finish Pure floral aromas emerge under the bark and leafy character of the palate. This is beautifully balanced and not at all forced A savoury wine more farmyard than fruit orchard but the forest-floor and spice palate is intriguing. Good tannin structure Smoky, toasty oak shines through the black fruits with lots of sweet berries, liquorice and tar. Violet and spice notes add intrigue Savoury and sweet style with lots of just ripe fruit character. Bright zip of oak spice and just a touch of warmth on the very long finish Very ripe nose but the fruit is slightly baked. Decent concentration and quite fresh on the palate, but challenging oak shows through juicy acidity Dark fruit with a bitter and peppery watercress note, followed by sweet oak and a nutty character. Rather chewy tannins mute the personality of the fruit Generously floral and aromatic a spicy, bold style. Full of wood shavings and sweet gingery spice with very evident oak masking the fruit Simple Marlborough Pinot that is pleasant and pleasing. Evocative perfume of summer pudding and rose with a soft, plump and sweet raisined palate Soft fruit twinned with oak that sweeps across the palate, which is long and supple with flavours of coffee and loganberries Charred spicy oak notes on the nose. The vibrant palate shows some lifted, balsamic notes along with layers of black cherry and damson Explosion in a glass of wonderful Pinot characters the pure red fruit is broad and generous. Perhaps slightly jammy, but still plenty of depth here. 35 Amps Fine Wines, Hennings Wine Merchants, Noel Young, Oxford Wine Co, Reserve Wines, The Butlers Cellar, The Sampler, The Secret Cellar, Sheldon s n Harwood Hall, Pinot Noir, Central Otago , 13.5%, -, 23 Top Selection, Zefino n Stanley Estates, Pinot Noir, Awatere Valley, Marlborough , 13.5%, -, Frontier Fine Wines, Murcatto Wines, Baythorne Hall, Wine Utopia, Sommelier Wine Co n Yealands Estate, Single Vineyard Pinot Noir, Awatere Valley, Malborough , 14%, -, Carruthers & Kent, Enotria & Coe, Great Western Wine n Allan Scott, Hounds Pinot Noir, Marlborough , 13%, -, Fine Wines Direct n Anchorage, Reserve Pinot Noir, Nelson , 13%, -, Peter Watts n Coopers Creek, Pinot Noir, 84, 14%, -, Slurp n Kim Crawford, Rise & Shine Pinot Noir, Central Otago , 13.5%, -2021, POA Liberty Wines n Little Beauty, Black Edition Pinot Noir, 84, 14%, -, Davy s Wine Merchants, l Art du Vin, Dunells Premier Wines, Direct Wine Shipments, Bay Tree Wine Co n Seifried, Pinot Noir, Nelson , 14%, -, Inverarity Morton, Lewis & Cooper, Marks & Spencers, Vintage Marque n Sileni, Cellar Selection Pinot Noir, Hawke s Bay , 13.5%, -, Highbury Vintners, Nickolls & Perks, Taurus Wines, The Rare & Fine Wine Co, Nickolls & Perks n Burn Cottage, Moonlight Rage, Central Otago , 13.5%, -2021, Harvey Nichols, The New Zealand House of Wine, The Secret Cellar n Fromm, La Strada Pinot Noir, Marlborough , 13.5%, -, Bin Two, D. Byrne & Co, Planet of the Grapes, The New Zealand Cellar, Wine World n Neudorf, Moutere Pinot Noir, Nelson , 14%, -, 35 Berry Bros & Rudd, Highbury Vintners, Harvey Nicholls, The New Zealand Cellar, Woodwinters n Brancott Estate, Terroir Series Pinot Noir, Awatere Valley, 84 14%, -, Ocado, Tesco Wine Online n Dog Point, Pinot Noir, 84, 14%, -, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Carruthers & Kent, Harvey Nicholls, Highbury Vintners, The Good Wine Shop, The Sampler, The Wine Society, Uncorked, Vinest, Woodwinters n Lawson s Dry Hills, Reserve, % Majestic 30 Far Flung Wine Co 84, 13.5%, -, Caviste, Champagnes & Chateaux, Inverarity Morton, Must Wines, Rodney Densen n Te Whare Ra, TWR Pinot Noir, Renwick & Omaka Valley, 84, 13.8%, -, Hawkshead, SH Jones, Slurp, Swig n Corofin, Settlement Vineyard, Omaka, 83, 13%, -, 33 Stannary St Wine Co n Drylands, Pinot Noir, 83, 14%, -, Matthew Clark n Escarpment, Kupe, 83, 14%, -, Frontier Fine n Wines, Field & Fawcett, Fine & Rare, Hailsham Cellars, Oxford Wine Co, Tanners, Vin Neuf n Porters, Pinot Noir, Martinborough , 13.5%, -, The New Zealand Cellar n Staete Landt, State of Grace Pinot Noir, Rapaura, 83, 13.5%, -, Thorman Hunt, Woodwinters n Clos Henri, Pinot Noir, Marlborough , 13.5%, -, Bijou Bottles, Bottle Apostle, Wine Rooms, Les Caves de Pyrène, The New Zealand Cellar n Waimea, Spinyback, Nelson , 13.5%, -, North & South Wines n Corofin, Cowley Family Vineyard, Ben Morven, 83, 13%, -, 33 Stannary St Wine Co Fair 76-82pts n Delta, Hatter s Hill Pinot Noir, Marlborough n Sacred Hill, Reserve Pinot Noir, 82 n Rapaura Springs, Reserve Pinot Noir, Marlborough n Nga Waka, Lease Block Pinot Noir, Martinborough n Opawa, Pinot Noir, 81 n Trinity Hill, Pinot Noir, Hawkes Bay n Blind River, Pinot Noir, Awatere Valley, 80 n Bascand, Pinot Noir, 79 n Rapaura Springs, Pinot Noir, 79 n Ward Valley Estate, Mount Victoria Block Pinot Noir, Marlborough n Tiki, Pinot Noir, 77 Poor 70-75pts n Churton, Pinot Noir, Marlborough n Gem, Pinot Noir, Martinborough For full UK stockist details, see p Hailsham, Hennings, Islington Wine, The New Zealand House of Wine, The Wine Reserve, Victor Hugo, Villages Wines Frontier Fine Wines, Waples Wines, Village Vine, Martinez, Stone Vine & Sun, Wines of Interest Alliance Wine 20 Oz Wines, The New Zealand House of Wine, Wine Utopia Armit Wines, H2Vin, Highbury Vintners, Lay & Wheeler, The NZ Wine Cellar Great Western Wine 18 Averys Four Walls Wines, Haslemere Cellar, Huntsworth Wine Co, Noel Young, Raffles Fine Wines, Vagabond 11 Noel Young, Priory Wines, Tiny s Tipples, Whole Foods Market, Woodwinters Merchant Vintners Booths, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Cellar 28, The Oxford Wine Co, Waitrose My top three Melanie Brown n Pegasus Bay, Pinot Noir, Waipara, Canterbury 2013 Bright and vibrant with ample structure and poise. Layers of fruit intensity and oak integration. An acid backbone supports minerality and gentle savoury notes. Pinot Perfection. 95 Drink - n Mount Edward, Pinot Noir, Central Otago 2013 Wonderful richness and appeal; Pinot purity at its best. Defined florals dance on the palate supported by good fruit weight, and intriguing texture that leads to a generous length. 91 Drink - n Seresin, Rachel, Marlborough 2012 Sadly not on form here, but usually a powerful and complex wine, showing crushed berry fruits, herbal aromatics and fine-grained tannins. Charismatic and rich, it captures the essence of Marlborough. 86 Drink - My top three Christine Parkinson Lowburn Ferry, Home Block, Lowburn, Central Otago 2014 An intensely perfumed, succulent wine. The distinctly silky texture is a hallmark of this sub-region. This wine is really building on the quality it has shown from the start. 96 Drink - Greywacke, Southern Valleys, Marlborough 2013 Winemaker Kevin Judd believes the Greywacke soils give character and minerality to his wines. This one certainly has an elegant texture and savoury, almost earthy edge to the ripe cherry fruit. 95 Drink - Kusuda, Pinot Noir, Vibrant and charming with very pure fruit and well calibrated oak. Hiro Kusuda is one of the most meticulous producers, and his attention to detail has created a wine that is vivid yet delicate. 90 Drink - NB: the tasters top wines are not necessarily their top-scoring, rather those which, on learning the wines identity, they feel are the most notable given their provenance, price or other factors Expert summary: Bob Campbell MW Judging from half a dozen different regions and as many different vintages poses a similar challenge to judging various breeds, ages and sexes of dogs at Crufts. It seems impossibly complex, but both involve using an established set of criteria as an objective measure. In the case of wine, judges look for flavour intensity or power, complexity, balance and length of flavour. They consider texture as well as flavour profile and other factors to help them arrive at a score and allow them to describe each wine s character. The list of top wines can often reveal any suggestion of stylistic bias. Do the judges favour youthful or mature wines? Is there a dominant vintage or region? Do blockbuster wines get the tick or is elegance preferred? In this Decanter panel tasting I thought the seven Outstanding wines showed no particular bias except perhaps that five were from the generally excellent 2013 vintage, despite the fact that 2014 appears to have dominated total entries. I think the judges got it right in terms of vintage endorsement. Wines from four different regions were rated Outstanding: Marlborough, Martinborough and Canterbury had two wines each while Central Otago produced the tasting s top-scorer. The leading group included the pure and elegant My top three Phillip Tuck MW n Lowburn Ferry, Home Block, Lowburn, Central Otago 2014 A mightily impressive and complex Pinot in an admirably understated, fresh and vivid cool-climate style. Generous without being rich, and stylish without being showy. I was underwhelmed by many examples from Central Otago but this wine shone. 96 Drink - n Palliser Estate, Great Hector Pinot Noir, Martinborough 2013 I ve admirered Palliser since my first visit to them in 1993 and this is a fine example of the standards it aspired to back then and that it has clearly achieved in its wines today. 95 Drink n Giesen, Clayvin Single Vineyard Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2013 Although these three brothers are more renowned for their cool-climate Rieslings, this is a beautifully pure, balanced Pinot. There is nothing forced or heavy, such is the freshness of acidity and beautifully rounded tannins. 95 Drink - The diversity of shone through, with elegant and robust, accessible and structured wines all scoring highly from both 2013 and 2014 Bob Campbell MW is the Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Chair for New Zealand Mount Brown as well as the more robust (and in my view pleasingly rustic) Pegasus Bay with many shades in between. Contrast Lowburn Ferry s accessible Home Block with Giesen s more structured Clayvin and the judges get full marks from me for being open minded and endorsing top wines in a number of different styles. Their selection clearly demonstrates the diversity of. Inevitably with such a big class of wines, there were a few surprises. Some of my favourites that earned an admittedly respectable Recommended status include the excellent Ata Rangi 2014, the Burgundy lookalike Bell Hill 2013, Craggy Range s Aroha 2014 and one of Central Otago s best buys, Grasshopper Rock s I was even more shocked to see that the stylish Burn Cottage 2014, fruit-focused Dog Point 2014 and Escarpment s powerful Kupe 2014 had been rated a relatively modest Commended. It s tough at the top! D The judges get full marks for endorsing top wines in a number of different styles 86 September DECANTER DECANTER September 87