Many growers have not increased prices, some have posted modest increases, but the fall in the value of the pound has not been helpful.

Transcription

1 2016 Burgundy Offer A cold coming they had of it: 2016 in the Côte d Or and Chablis was both challenged and defined by the harsh April frost. It killed the nascent buds in many vineyards, it delayed ripening and sharply reduced yields. As a result, the wines from frost-bitten vineyards are more concentrated than from those that were spared. Further extreme weather affected all growers: severe mildew attacks, sunburn and drought contributed to a vintage that is difficult to compare with any other, and in which growers had to work unusually hard to produce good wine. But produce it they did is a lovely vintage in a classic style, with dense, ripe yet crunchy fruit, plenty of energy, and excellent terroir definition beneath. The winter in 2016 was warm and damp, and never dropped below freezing, except in Chablis, and there was a severe and widespread hailstorm in early April in the Maconnais. Budbreak was promising, and heralded a generous crop. But then for two successive nights, the temperatures dropped to just below freezing, causing significant damage the worst since 1981 and many vineyards that had escaped the first round were clobbered on the second. Astonishingly, vineyards never previously affected by frost were hard hit Montrachet, Musigny and Chambertin, for instance; in Chablis the effects were severe, but they are used to it there, and counter-measures provided some relief. So why was the damage so bad in sites where frost had never struck before? There are many theories, and no easy answer. It seems two types of frost were involved. The first was due to cold air flowing down the hill and along valleys, the most common type of frost in Burgundy. The second was due to a series of unfortunate events: rain on 26 th had left the ground humid, but that night the sky cleared, and the following morning, the ice that had formed on the nascent leaves and buds acted like a magnifying glass for the rising sun, burning them black. There were many local variations depending on exposure, wind, and elevation; guyottrained vines (primarily white vines) suffered more than those using the cordon de royat system, as the latter were slower to develop and had fewer leaves and buds; walls provided some protection, as did trees, and cloud cover most famously over Puligny for a brief thirty minutes against the sun. Cool, damp weather followed throughout May, with two nasty hailstorms in Chablis, and June was no better. There were severe attacks of mildew, to which frostweakened vines were particularly vulnerable, and which required nimble treatments. Many organic growers, with limited remedies at their disposal, suffered huge losses or resorted to conventional methods. 1

2 At the end of June the weather turned, remaining fine and dry until the harvest at the end of September. Many vines were affected by drought, and some grapes got sunburn. The harvest took place in perfect conditions. You might wonder how weather like that can produce anything of substance. Many growers were not optimistic, but as the wines developed in cask they were very pleasantly surprised. The extremes of weather cool and damp, then warm and dry, have given the wines definition on the one hand, and phenolic ripeness on the other. Frédéric Lafarge spoke of the joy of the survivors, and there is certainly an exuberance and energy in the wines to match the ripe fruit. The frost-bitten wines are concentrated, and some of them unrelaxed, especially the whites, but in the medium to long term they will provide lovely drinking. Many growers have not increased prices, some have posted modest increases, but the fall in the value of the pound has not been helpful. The prices in our offer are valid until 28 th February. As usual, we give priority to customers who support us every year and across the board. Please let us know your requests by the 15 th of January. Prices are in bond London. Unless otherwise marked, wines are packed in: 6-BOTTLE CASES (750ml) 12-BOTTLE CASES (375ml) 3-BOTTLE CASES (1500ml) Wines may be ordered by the case only. If your shipping address differs from your invoicing address, please let us know when placing your order. 2

3 Contents Commune Page CHABLIS William Fèvre 5 MACONNAIS Daniel, Julien et Martine Barraud Vergisson 6-7 COTE CHALONNAISE Des Moirots Bissey-Sous-Cruchaud 8 COTE DE BEAUNE Chassagne-Montrachet Fontaine-Gagnard 9-10 COTE DE BEAUNE Puligny-Montrachet Alain Chavy Leflaive 13 Paul Pernot 14 COTE DE BEAUNE Meursault Didier Darviot-Perrin Monthélie Guy Roulot 16 COTE DE BEAUNE Volnay Jean-Marc et Thomas Bouley Michel Lafarge Lafarge-Vial 20 COTE DE BEAUNE Pommard Comte Armand 21 de Courcel 22 COTE DE BEAUNE Beaune Maison Camille-Giroud Dublère 26 Jean Guiton Bligny-Lès-Beaune 27 Benjamin Leroux

4 COTE DE NUITS Nuits-Saint-Georges de l Arlot Prémeaux Faiveley Didier Fornerol Corgoloin 33 Henri Gouges 34 Frédéric Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny 35 COTE DE NUITS Vosne-Romanée Bruno Clavelier Jean Grivot Mugneret-Gibourg 40 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Vougeot COTE DE NUITS Chambolle-Musigny Ghislaine Barthod 43 Hudelot-Baillet COTE DE NUITS Morey-Saint-Denis Dujac Fils et Père 45 Castagnier 46 Robert Groffier des Lambrays 49 COTE DE NUITS Gevrey-Chambertin Denis Bachelet René Bouvier 52 Fourrier Geantet-Pansiot Terms of Business 57 4

5 Chablis CHABLIS William Fèvre Chablis had a particularly hard time of it in Not only were the vineyards hit by hard frost on 27th April, but two fierce hailstorms in May exacerbated the damage, and then further trouble came from sunburned grapes in August. Yields at the domaine were down on average by 60%. Unfortunately we were unable to taste the wines offered below. Chablis 1er cru, Vaillons Not tasted. Drink Chablis 1er cru, Vaulorent Not tasted. Drink Chablis grand cru, Vaudésir Not tasted. Drink Chablis grand cru, Les Clos Not tasted. Drink

6 Mâconnais MACONNAIS Daniel et Julien Barraud Vergisson Daniel et Julien The Mâconnais did not have it easy: on 13th April huge hailstones smashed the buds in vineyards around Fuissé, resulting in 90% damage. Older vines, as in Les Bulands, which had been slow to push out their buds were less affected. Two further hailstorms in May and June caused less spectacular damage. Like the rest of Burgundy, the wet weather caused strong disease pressure, but the latter part of the growing season was largely warm and dry. The wines are fresh and fruit-driven; their immediate accessibility masks a complexity that will emerge as they mature. I have said this before but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue 64, October 2016 Mâcon-Chaintré Pierres Polies Vibrant, floral fruit tinged with lemon is offset by a buttery lush richness, held effortlessly together by a pleasing mineral bass note. Drink Pouilly-Fuissé Alliance Vieilles Vignes A rich but not overpowering wine with lemon, cool orchard fruit and a hint of wood, kept vibrant by bright acidity and a long spicy citrus finish. Drink

7 Mâconnais Daniel et Julien Barraud (contd.) Pouilly-Fuissé En France Exceptionally smooth, fine ripe fruit is balanced by a pure mineral hit that drives to a juicy, salty bitter finish. Drink Pouilly-Fuissé La Verchère Vieilles Vignes Made from 70-year-old vines grown on a warmer site behind the cuverie. It bursts with spice, ripe citrus and yellow stone fruit, and has a delicious, fine intense finish. Drink Magnums 105 Pouilly-Fuissé Sur La Roche The highest vineyard of the domaine s holdings, with an eastern exposure and good ventilation, this wine is usually the first to ripen. It was hit hard by hail and very little was made; but what quality! Extremely dense and rich, with an abundance of ripe lemony fruit, it is clean and fresh, and there is a fine mineral seam that comes to the fore on the long salty finish. Drink Magnums 120 Pouilly-Fuissé En Buland Vieilles Vignes Generous, rich and round, this is a big concentrated wine packed with fresh, almost tropical fruit, zingy citrus notes that keep lively and an extremely fine and lingering minerality. Drink Magnums 132 7

8 Côte Chalonnaise COTE CHALONNAISE Des Moirots Bissey-Sous-Cruchaud Christophe Denizot One of the few places in Burgundy where we were met with sunny smiles last year. There was no frost, no hail, and generous yields. The start of the growing season was complicated enough, with wet weather leading to the threat of mildew, but timely treatment staved it off, and the subsequent warm season the sun at the right times produced a crop of healthy grapes. The reds were macerated for longer than usual, and instead of being punched down, there was only a gentle pumping over to avoid coarse tannins. White Montagny 1er cru, Le Vieux Château Delightfully accessible floral fruit is backed by mineral richness, lemony acidity and a powerful pure pithy finish. Drink Red Givry One doesn t expect silky tannins in Givry, but here they are, accompanied by bramble fruit and an appealing, long fresh finish. Drink Givry 1er cru, A Vigne Rouge A greater proportion of limestone in the clay soils (the same composition as Chambolle, says Christophe Denizot) makes this lighter and finer than the village. It has 60% new oak, which the vibrant sweet rich fruit easily swallows, and the structure is broad and supple, with a juicy, rounded and powerful finish. Drink

9 Côte de Beaune Chassagne-Montrachet COTE DE BEAUNE Chassagne-Montrachet Fontaine-Gagnard Céline Fontaine Pretty much all of Céline Fontaine s wines were marked by the harsh frost of 26th April. Losses were spectacular, and only Morgeot, on the border with Santenay, was spared. Judicious treatments and the fact that the domaine is not organic meant that the subsequent attack of mildew did little further damage. The wines are quite unlike any we have tasted: tremendously concentrated, with dense fruit and vibrant acidity. They need time in bottle to relax, but have great potential. White Chassagne-Montrachet The density of a 1er cru in the form of rich creamy fruit, bright acidity and a broad, mineral-driven juicy finish. Drink Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru, Les Vergers There is typical bright citrus fruit and fine minerality on show here, as well as great concentration which makes it a little ungiving. In time it will relax Drink Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru, Morgeot Unaffected by frost, and much more open as a result, showing aromatic bright yellow fruit and vibrant citrus notes, underpinned by broad mineral flavours. Drink

10 Côte de Beaune Chassagne-Montrachet Fontaine-Gagnard (contd.) Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru, Les Caillerets From 50-year-old vines in two parcels. The higher of the two, with chalky soils, lends a mineral tension, while the lower, with a higher clay content, gives richness and a spice note. It is very dense and dominated by powerful citrus flavours at first, but then the class of the vineyard emerges in the form of ripe yellow fruit and a pure, fine minerality. Drink Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru, La Romanée A vineyard that does not get much sun, and is always the last to ripen: it is elegant, with bright citrus and ripe pear flavours, powerful stony minerals and a fine, long salty finish. Quite beautiful. Drink Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Tiny amounts made of this fine, lemony wine which is concentrated, powerful and very long indeed. Drink bottles 816 Bâtard-Montrachet Céline reported that when pressed, the juice was so thick that it did not appear to be from grapes. The result is a dense, viscous wine with powerful citrus flavours, huge melting minerality and a finish that doesn t. Drink bottles 816 Red Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge Powerful, dense and very juicy spicy red fruit explodes on the palate, balanced by a firm tannic structure that gives unusual length. Drink Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge 1er cru This year a blend of Morgeot and Clos St. Jean. Normally these two cuvées would total ten barrels, but in 2016 there were just three. It is full of vibrant energy, power, dense red fruit, spice and fine minerality, and finishes on an attractive note of black chocolate and coffee. Drink Volnay 1er cru, Clos-des-Chênes A yield of just 9 hl/ha has given a voluptuous, finely structured wine with fresh crunchy red fruit, enormous intensity and excellent length. Drink

11 Côte de Beaune Puligny-Montrachet COTE DE BEAUNE Puligny-Montrachet Alain Chavy Alain Chavy Lucky Puligny: a light cloud on the morning of the 28th protected the frozen buds from the sun for a crucial half-hour, and saved them from burning. As a result, Alain Chavy s yields were not too much affected, except towards Chassagne. His wines were slow developers, and only started coming into their own after racking just before the 2017 harvest. They are not as dense as the 2015s, but more forward, bright, and attractive. Bourgogne Blanc Not one we usually buy, but this was so delightfully perfumed, ripe and forward that we couldn t resist. Drink Puligny-Montrachet, Les Charmes In 2014 the domaine reclaimed a particularly fine part of the Charmes vineyard that had been leased, and quality has since greatly improved. It has a fine, delicate, scented nose, ripe grapefruit and lemon notes, is intense and round without being heavy, and shows a steely minerality on the finish. Drink Halves Magnums 180 Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru, Les Clavoillons There is density and richness here in the form of creamy grapefruit, but a fine mineral tension keeps it pure all the way through to a long salty mineral finish. Drink

12 Côte de Beaune Puligny-Montrachet Alain Chavy (contd.) Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru, Les Folatières An intense floral nose gives way to ripe yellow orchard fruit on the palate; the texture is dense and creamy, and there is a fine, persistent current of minerality that finishes on a long salty note. Drink Halves Magnums 240 Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru, Les Pucelles As the vines age, they are increasingly showing the complexities of this great terroir, this year in the form of vibrant floral notes, ripe pear and shades of yellow orchard fruit, underpinned by a powerful minerality. Drink Chevalier-Montrachet A very concentrated, lemon-tinged wine with power, elegance and a fine seam of minerality to complement the dense rich fruit. Drink ,158 12

13 Côte de Beaune Puligny-Montrachet Leflaive There have been many positive developments since Brice de la Morandière took over this famous domaine, and one of the happiest has been the appointment of Pierre Vincent as winemaker. Together with the brilliant vineyard manager Sylvain Pellegrini, they are a formidable team. It was a particularly difficult vintage for biodynamic producers: vines weakened by frost were vulnerable to the onslaught of mildew, and losses were high just a third of a normal vintage was produced. But the little that was made is of superb quality. Bourgogne Blanc Dense, rich and creamy, with expressive citrus fruit: as usual this punches well above its weight. Drink Puligny-Montrachet Scented, rich ripe fruit on the nose leads to a dense rich palate of tropical, almost musky fruit with lemon acidity and a fine mineral finish. Drink Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru, Le Clavoillon A deep, rich wine with lots of lemony acidity, forward peachy fruit and a long mineral-tinged finish. Drink Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru, Les Folatières A big step up in finesse from Clavoillon. There is richness and weight, broad tropical fruit and a fine mineral seam, and it is given definition by ripe, very juicy acidity that carries through to the finish. Drink Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru, Les Pucelles A very rich Pucelles, yes, but still a Pucelles, with all the finesse, intensity and fine minerality typical of the vineyard. Drink ,025 Bâtard-Montrachet Very dense and concentrated, this is packed with ripe fruit and bright citrus acidity, and the power is astonishing. Drink bottles 1,055 Chevalier-Montrachet Unusually expressive at this stage, with rich fruit and weight, but gradually the class of the vineyard emerges in the form of a beautifully fine defining minerality that goes on to a sweet juicy finish. Drink bottles 1,265 13

14 Côte de Beaune Puligny-Montrachet Côte de Beaune Meursault Paul Pernot Paul & Michel Pernot A good deal of frost damage in the grand crus, a little less in the 1ers, led to an overall reduction of 25%. The wines are their usual powerful selves. White Puligny-Montrachet Powerful, bright and long, with rich ripe yellow fruit and a pleasant mineral tinge on the finish. Drink Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru, Les Folatières A big broad wine with concentration, power and a rich fruit core; there is minerality, bright acidity and good length. Drink Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru, Les Pucelles Not tasted. Drink Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Not tasted. Drink Bâtard-Montrachet Not tasted. Drink

15 Côte de Beaune Meursault COTE DE BEAUNE Meursault Didier Darviot-Perrin Monthélie Didier and Alix Darviot What with the most intense frost since 1951 and one of the worst mildew attacks ever seen, 2016 was perhaps not the easiest year to go organic, but Didier Darviot and his daughter Alix-Anne are nothing if not determined, and kept the faith throughout this difficult growing season. As a result, yields are way down across the board, but the quality of the wines is very impressive. White Meursault, Clos de la Velle Still rich and powerful, but there is more elegance here, more defined acidity, appealing rounded nutty fruit, and a spicy finish. Drink Meursault 1er cru, Les Charmes From vines planted in the 1950s, this is ripe, rich and pithy, showing yellow fruit, an almost earthy minerality and bright lemony acidity. Drink Meursault 1er cru, Les Genevrières Vines planted in 1951 give a very mineral wine indeed, with lovely concentrated pure fruit to back it. Drink Meursault 1er cru, Les Perrières All the stony power and ripe dense fruit typical of the vintage, but the terroir shines through with shimmering fine mineral flavours and a subtle juicy long finish. Drink

16 Côte de Beaune Meursault Darviot-Perrin (contd.) Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru, Blanchot-Dessus One sixth of a normal crop, and not surprisingly this is very dense and powerful, with lashings of mineral, concentrated yellow fruit and bright acidity. Not the most relaxing of wines now, it will need several years to come round. Drink Red Volnay 1er cru, Santenots Very, very dense dark fruit with a pronounced very fine minerality runs through to a long, sweet finish. Drink MAISON Jean-Marc Roulot Jean-Marc Roulot Bourgogne Blanc Severe frost damage to the vines in Meursault mean that purchased grapes are part of the blend. It is still one of the best of its kind: clean, fresh and vibrant, with a charming undercurrent of minerality. Drink

17 Côte de Beaune Volnay COTE DE BEAUNE Volnay Jean-Marc et Thomas Bouley Thomas Bouley Hard times in Volnay town. Thomas Bouley s vines were trained for later budding, and the frost fell just at the wrong moment. His average yield was 16 hl/ha, and some vineyards, such as Fremiers, only produced 9 hl/ha. But the quality of fruit left behind was fantastic. The vines that did not freeze produced a generous crop. There is, however, no Bourgogne, no Beaune and little Volnay. This year his new cuverie, hewn into the hillside next to the house, enabled him to work with much greater precision. The fruit was chilled to 12 C, then macerated for five days before fermentation began. The wines are concentrated, but they are full of individuality, energy and balance. Volnay Vieilles Vignes From red soils in a vineyard protected from winds and wellexposed to the sun. This is dense, silky and pure, with crunchy red fruit and a long fresh finish. Drink Volnay 1er cru, Carelles From old vines in the middle of the slope that catch the sun, growing in deep red soils mixed with chalk. It is rich, juicy and fresh, the expressive raspberry fruit is tinged with spice and the finish is silky and long. Drink Volnay 1er cru, Caillerets Spared by the frost, Caillerets has given spicy dense wine with big reserves of energy, plentiful red fruit and a beautifully long silky finish. Drink

18 Côte de Beaune Volnay Bouley (contd.) Volnay 1er cru, Clos des Chênes Made from two separate parcels: the lower one, with reddish soil, was more affected by frost than the white soils above, meaning that more fruit than usual from the upper plot went into the blend, resulting in a more linear wine than usual. There is a pure, clean backbone to this densely textured wine, which supports the clear red fruit, elements of spice, very fine minerality and long fresh finish. Drink Pommard 1er cru, Fremiers Almost no wine made here just 9 hl/ha. Not surprisingly, it is very dense and rich, but there is perfumed red fruit, fine rich tannin and a very persistent finish. Drink Pommard 1er cru, Rugiens Another vineyard not affected by frost. The grapes and stems in Rugiens were so ripe that for the first time since % whole bunches were used during fermentation. There is an explosion of superfine red and black fruit, supple tannins, and a rush of freshness from the fine minerality on the long finish. Drink

19 Côte de Beaune Volnay Beaujolais Lafarge Frédéric Lafarge Frédéric Lafarge produces some of the most consistently fine wines in the Côte de Beaune. Such is his mastery of biodynamic principles that while others struggled with the challenging 2016 vintage, he reported no problems, apart from a lowering of morale at being singled out once again by the inclement weather. He treated carefully and quickly, on call twenty-four hours a day during the most dangerous mildew attacks, reporting that for growers south of Beaune this sort of thing was routine, whereas the more spoiled growers in the Côte de Nuits were less prepared and may have missed crucial spraying windows. Like everyone in the commune, he suffered a dramatic reduction in yield, with an average of 8-10 hl/ha. Often ready with a comparison to another vintage, this year he sees no parallel. He is simply very pleased with them: the grapes were full of delight at having survived it is a joyous vintage! Passetoutgrain L Exception Peppery and vibrant, with a delicious core of red hedgerow fruit. Drink Bourgogne Rouge Intense and full of energy, this has an abundance of crunchy red fruit and a rich finish. Drink Volnay Very elegant plummy and spicy fruit in a dense, vibrant package, this will be approachable young, but will keep well. Drink Beaune 1er cru, Grèves 95-year-old vines give an intense spicy dark fruit that has richness, vibrancy and great persistence. Drink Volnay 1er cru, Mitans Dark, dense and very rich, with typical structured tannins balanced by loads of fruit and a long mineral finish. Drink

20 Côte de Beaune Volnay Beaujolais Lafarge (contd.) Volnay 1er cru, Clos-du-Château-des-Ducs The first vineyard to be harvested, and entirely destemmed by hand, the theory being that during the process a positive human energy is passed to the grapes. It is certainly a gentler way of doing things, and the resulting wine is fantastically elegant, fine and dense, with silky fruit and a dancing, bright finish. Drink Volnay 1er cru, Caillerets A concentrated, deep, mineral-driven wine full of energy and bright fruit, along with smooth tannins and a persistent finish. Drink Volnay 1er cru, Clos-des-Chênes Densely woven and powerful, packed full of generous rich spiceladen red fruit, and finishing smooth and long. Drink Lafarge-Vial The third crop of a domaine purchased by the Lafarge family in Beaujolais, and lovingly made in the same way as the Pinots in the Côte de Beaune. Hailstorms in May and June greatly reduced the crop, but the quality is outstanding. Chiroubles Perfumed delicate red fruit is backed by good structure and a long smooth finish. Drink Côtes de Brouilly A new acquisition, leased vines nearly sixty years old on blue granite soil. This is rich, structured and mineral-driven, with lovely pure fruit and persistence on the finish. Drink Magnums 150 Fleurie, La Joie du Palais A very steep small vineyard, partially worked by horse. There is 15% whole-bunch fermentation here and the wine is very pure, with ripe black fruit, great energy and length. Drink Magnums 147 Fleurie, Clos Vernay A monopole of the domaine, on granite and quartz soils surrounded by trees. There is more intensity and structure here, and the red fruit is full of energy and depth, supported by fine tannins. Drink Magnums

21 Côte de Beaune Pommard COTE DE BEAUNE Pommard Comte Armand Paul Zinetti Paul Zinetti reported that the poor weather in 2016 strained biodynamic methods to the limit. With only a few weapons at his disposal to combat the powerful mildew attack, losses were high, but the natural resilience of the vines after years of organic treatment prevented complete disaster. However, there is almost no Auxey village, and no Volnay village at all. Auxey-Duresses Bright, crunchy red fruit with surprising richness finishes on a bright fresh note. Drink Auxey-Duresses 1er cru From a vineyard abutting Monthélie. A wine with bags of energy, ripe, perfumed and crunchy, perfectly balanced and elegant, and an almost ethereal finish. If you are looking for a wine that epitomises all that is best about 2016, here it is. Drink Volnay 1er cru, Les Fremiets Adjacent to Pommard, and thus always on the more powerful side. No new wood used here, and the result is very spicy, with notes of clove and cinnamon to complement the intense, plummy ripe fruit. Lots of energy here too. Drink Pommard 1er cru, Clos des Epeneaux Just 13 hl/ha produced. A beautifully fine, opulent wine that bursts with energy and flavour. The fruit is spicy, dark and crunchy, and there is an appealing sweetness to the ripe tannins, balanced by a delicious salty minerality and a very long finish. Drink Magnums 534 Jeroboam each

22 Côte de Beaune Pommard Côte de Beaune Beaune de Courcel Yves Confuron Another depressingly empty cellar during our visit this year. Frost and mildew reduced yields even further than last year, with an average of 10 hl/ha. For Yves Confuron the wines are in the same category as the 2003 vintage: solar and enormously concentrated. Pommard Vaumuriens Surprising intensity and depth for a village. The fruit is very ripe, and there is a freshness and energy given by the smooth tannins. Drink se price per 6 bottles in bond 276 Pommard 1er cru, Grand Clos des Epenots There is very rich dark black fruit, intense smooth tannin and enormous length. A wine for the long haul. Drink Pommard 1er cru, Les Rugiens The white soils of upper Rugiens give a very rich, fine wine packed with dark black fruit of extraordinary richness, kept fresh by vibrant tannins and smooth mineral flavours. The finish is chocolatey and long, with a hint of liquorice. Drink

23 Côte de Beaune Beaune COTE DE BEAUNE Beaune MAISON Camille-Giroud Carel Voorhuis & David Croix Carel Voorhuis joined David Croix just before the 2016 vintage, which they made together. Since the following January, Carel has been on his own, and 2017 will be his first proper run at things. There are many cuvées missing this year. White Saint-Romain From Le Sous le Château. Vibrant citrus flavours on a surprisingly rich palate, and there are lovely mineral flashes on the finish. Drink Meursault, Les Vireuils Concentrated, powerful and rounded, balanced by vibrant acidity and a long fresh finish. Drink Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru, Tête du Clos A quite extraordinary wine, always one of the very best Chassagnes. The vineyard abuts La Romanée, and is part of Morgeot, but the soil is stony white marl, giving wines that are nervy and mineral-driven rather than broad and heavy. The vines are sixty years old, producing small clusters that are susceptible to millerandage, which means greater concentration and ripeness. This year it displays the typical density of the vintage, but manages to be ethereal none-the-less, packed with pear and citrus fruit, freshness and a fine pithy minerality. Drink

24 Côte de Beaune Beaune Camille Giroud (cond.) Corton-Charlemagne From Le Rognet. Opulent rich fruit with a hint of musk is balanced by a vein of fine minerality, and the finish is very dense and long. Drink Red Bourgogne Rouge Fruit from Volnay and a little from Givry give a rounded, ripe wine with density and generous fruit. Drink Santenay From two plots Les Bras, with pebbly soil, and Les Saunières, made up of heavier red soils, similar to the Clos Rousseau. Fresh, spicy black cherry fruit and elements of raspberry are offset by finely structured tannins and a hint of mineral on the long finish. Drink Ladoix There is lovely fresh red cherry and black fruit here, depth, elegance and a sweet rich finish. Drink Any this year? 87 Maranges 1er cru, Le Croix Moines The last 1er cru of the Côte de Beaune, the vineyard has white marl soils. The grapes are sourced from the top of the hill, and are always ripe, but never too much so, as the terroir lends firmness. This year it is densely textured and perfumed and rounded, with precision, energy and length. 108 Marsannay Les Longeroies A blend of grapes, some grown on limestone-rich soils on the upper slopes, and others from old vines in clay soils lower down. There is lovely fresh red fruit with a shade of iron, density and a rich finish. Drink Santenay 1er cru, Clos Rousseau There is lovely finely textured dense fruit here, exuberant and brambly, balanced by rounded fine tannins and a long spicy finish. Drink Vosne-Romanée Les Chalandins Les Chalandins is neatly situated below Echézeaux, close to the wall of Clos Vougeot. 50% whole-bunch fermentation gives an intense, violet-scented, charming wine that is complex, transparent and round, with fine tannins and a long, powerful finish. One of the most seductive village wines tasted this year. Drink

25 Côte de Beaune Beaune Camille Giroud (cond.) Morey-Saint-Denis, Clos Solon A vibrant, juicy, spicy wine completely at ease with itself. The ripe fruit is perfectly pitched against a background of fine juicy tannins, and the finish is concentrated and long. Drink Chambolle-Musigny 1er cru, Aux Echanges The silky charm of Chambolle, yes, but this year in a more concentrated form than usual. There is dense, delicate fruit, a vibrant salty minerality peeking through behind it and a fine sweet juicy finish. Drink Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru, Lavaut-Saint-Jacques Just over a barrel made this year, a third of the usual quantity. There is a beautiful fine structure, with spicy black fruit and a very elegant finish. Drink Corton Le Clos du Roi Made from biodynamically farmed fruit. The fruit is very ripe and rich, shading gradually from red to black, the tannins are fine but very much in evidence, and the finish is sweet and long. The vineyard always produces a big wine, but this year its density is such that it will reward patience. Drink Magnums 366 Clos Vougeot Petit Maupertuis This is fine, rounded and generous, with spicy sweet fruit, but also restraint, as the layers of flavour take time to emerge from behind well-balanced tannins. An energy-giving mineral tension runs through it too, and a there is a long fresh finish. Drink Charmes-Chambertin Forward and open, this offers very juicy, spicy black-cherry fruit, lots of fine tannins, and an easy charm that promises a fun evening. Drink Chambertin More a dancer than a rugby player: there is beautifully defined black fruit chocolate, coffee and cherry seamlessly integrated with vanishingly fine tannins, and understated, effortless power evidenced by a very persistent, smooth finish. Drink ,140 3 Magnums 1,146 25

26 Côte de Beaune Beaune Dublère Blair Pethel Blair Pethel fell in love with Burgundy in the 90s, gave up his job as a political journalist in Washington, and moved his family to Beaune in From small beginnings, he now owns vineyards in Savigny and a parcel of Corton-Charlemagne, and buys grapes from some of the finest 1er cru vineyards in the Côte d Or and Chablis. His wines are increasingly subtle and fine, a testament to his passion and extremely hard work. He has stopped using new oak, and his wines have an appealing purity as a result. White Savigny-Lès-Beaune Blanc 1er cru, Aux Vergelesses Spared by frost, this vineyard gives a relaxed, rounded wine with finesse, richness, juicy fruit and an attractive mineral kick on the finish. Drink Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru, Les Chaumées The parcel around the quarry, where there are trees, was protected spared from frost and has produced a lovely, rich elegant and lemony wine with broad mineral flavours and delightful purity. Drink Corton-Charlemagne Very spicy and intense rich ripe fruit and vibrant acidity is balanced by powerful mineral flavours that run and run. Drink Red Morey-Saint-Denis 1er cru, Les Blanchards A pale, elegant wine with perfumed, spicy fruit, fresh supple tannins and a juicy, mineral-driven finish. Drink

27 Côte de Beaune Beaune Jean Guiton Bligny-Lès-Beaune Guillaume Guiton Guillaume Guiton makes pure, beautifully expressive wines that provide excellent value for money. In 2016 he lost 70% of his production, but what he did manage to make is superb. Bourgogne Blanc, Hautes Côtes de Beaune From vines above Pommard, planted in A very long fermentation it finished in March of the following year has given a vibrant, lemony wine with delightful freshness and an undercurrent of mineral on the finish. Drink Ladoix 1er cru, La Corvée A south-facing vineyard that always gives riper, darker fruit. This year the texture is dense, with powerful black fruit with a hint of liquorice, rich tannins and very good length. Drink Savigny-Lès-Beaune 1er cru, Les Peuillets Just 11 hl/ha of yield, and the result is beautifully fresh, seductive red fruit, primarily strawberry, bright acidity and firm tannins. Drink

28 Côte de Beaune Beaune MAISON Benjamin Leroux Benjamin Leroux Steady growth at this successful maison: Benjamin s own vineyard holdings have expanded to over 7 ha (plus 16ha under contract). He is one of the best winemakers in Burgundy, and although he makes nearly fifty different wines, they are of an astonishingly high standard. White Meursault An assemblage of all the domaine s holdings. Very juicy intense round fruit of ripe pears and citrus is balanced by pithy mineral notes. Drink Red Morey-Saint-Denis From the En Pierre Virant vineyard at the top of the village, above les Chaffots, this year with 1er cru Genavrières added. Tongue-tickling energy here: the bright dense fruit is rich and generous, and there is a ripe mineral kick on the finish. Drink Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru, La Perrière A high proportion of whole-bunch fermentation gives a delightfully transparent wine, each element clearly delineated: ripe black fruit, very fine bitter mineral flavours, bright acidity and a long deep finish. Drink

29 Côte de Beaune Beaune Benjamin Leroux (cond.) Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru, Les Goulots From a vineyard just below the treeline, with thin soil washed by water running down from the woods. Harvested very late, on 8 October, this is one of the most elegant wines we tasted this year: there is an ethereal quality to the scented, exotic black fruit, beautifully fine minerality and a long fresh finish. Very special. Drink Clos Vougeot Petit Maupertuis Not tasted. Drink Echézeaux Supple and intense, this shows perfumed bramble fruit and is rich, rounded and intense, with a long chocolate finish. Drink bottles 522 Clos-Saint-Denis Very generous sweet floral dark fruit, elegant tannins and a lovely, relaxed long fresh finish. Drink bottles 540 Bonnes Mares Dense, rich and slightly angular at this stage, but there is a big knot of dense fruit behind the fine chocolatey tannins, and the finish is very persistent. Drink Magnums Each 420 Mazoyères-Chambertin There is a floral quality to the dense black fruit which gives it a pleasant lift, and it bursts with dense spicy energy, finishing on a salty mineral note. Drink bottles

30 Côte de Nuits Nuits-Saint-Georges COTE DE NUITS Nuits-Saint-Georges de l Arlot Prémeaux Géraldine Godot Southern Nuits-Saint-Georges was one of the hardest hit regions in the Côte de Nuits in 2016 at Arlot, yields were down to around 10 ha/hl. But the quality is very high: Géraldine Godot compares it favourably to A high proportion of stems was used this year, and it looks as if the traditional style of the domaine may be returning. White Nuits-Saint-Georges Blanc, La Gerbotte From young vines in the Clos de l Arlot, this is honeyed, rich and ripe, with broad creamy mineral flavours and freshness on the finish. Drink Nuits-Saint-Georges Blanc 1er cru, Clos de l Arlot A very appealing gentle scented nose leads to ripe citrus fruit, broad chalky mineral flavours and a very fine long finish. Drink Red Clos du Chapeau Perfectly fresh vibrant red fruit with notes of spice in a round, long package. Drink

31 Côte de Nuits Nuits-Saint-Georges De l Arlot (cond.) Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er cru, Clos de l Arlot The fruit is rich black and supple, and there is a dense weave of fine chocolate tannins, a gentle minerality that lends freshness and a persistent finish. Drink Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er cru, Clos-des-Forêts Very black and very smooth, quite muscular, but effortlessly so, and while this is a structured wine we are in Southern Nuits, after all the tannins are juicy and fine, and the finish long, fresh and fruity. Drink Halves Magnums 342 Vosne-Romanée 1er cru, Les Suchots Spared the frost, and as a result more relaxed at present. Still, it is dense and rich, with juicy velvety fruit, fine tannins and a spicy, powerful finish that reveals a gentle minerality. Drink Faiveley Nuits-Saint-Georges The last few years have seen a style change here and a dramatic acquisition programme involving the purchase of several domaines. A lot of thought and investment have gone into making the wine finer than in the past, and this is paying off handsomely. The harvest was late, trying to achieve as ripe fruit as possible. There was no chaptalisation, and the veteran winemaker Jérôme Flous tips it as a vintage for ageing, though it will drink young. There was less whole-bunch fermentation, as he was worried about the ripeness of the stems. White Corton-Charlemagne A very ripe wine with shades of the tropical to go with the spicy citrus fruit, balanced by a smooth saline minerality that drives to a rich long finish. Drink magnums 792 Red Mercurey, La Framboisière There is no trace of heaviness in this bright fruit-driven wine, with perfumed fresh raspberry notes running through the fine, balanced finish. Drink Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru, La Combe-aux-Moines Pure, spicy rounded black-cherry fruit, a smooth, rich middle and a ripe, fresh long finish. Drink

32 Côte de Nuits Nuits-Saint-Georges Faiveley (cond.) Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru, Les Cazetiers A more powerful, denser wine than the Combe au Moine, showing black cherry and hedgerow fruit tinged with spice; the tannins are darker, more pronounced but still very fine, and there is a very big salty mineral kick. Drink Corton, Clos-de-Cortons Faiveley A massive wine as usual, with powerful tannins that will be tamed by time, backed by abundant fresh black fruit, fine minerals and a rounded, intense finish. Drink Clos-de-Vougeot An excellent year for Clos Vougeot, as shown by this lovely smooth, fruit-packed wine that is juicy, fresh and very deep and long. Drink Echézeaux 'En Orveaux' Not tasted. Drink Latricières-Chambertin Stony, thin soil has given a transparent, mineral-driven wine of great elegance, great depth of fruit and a fine long finish. Drink Mazis-Chambertin A very big, rich dark wine, powerful and rounded, with dense bright black fruit and a long tannic, mineral finish. Drink Chambertin-Clos-de-Bèze Supremely elegant spicy black fruit in a dense weave, mingling with fine chocolatey tannins, and a very long, deep, satisfying finish. Drink ,152 3 Magnums 1,158 Chambertin-Clos-de-Bèze les Ouvrées Rodin Of the three Faiveley parcels, the vieilles vignes go towards this now very sought-after cuvée. This is all about finesse, with plentiful red fruit, spice and smooth mineral flavours, and a finish bordering on the ethereal. Drink bottles 1,551 32

33 Côte de Nuits Nuits-Saint-Georges Didier Fornerol Corgoloin Didier & Marguerite Fornerol Didier Fornerol was managing the wines and wine-making at the rundown Jules Belin estate when Jean-Pierre de Smet purchased it on behalf of AXA in He became Jean-Pierre s right-hand man, and remained there until 1999, when he devoted himself fully to his family domaine in Corgoloin. They still make wine together every year. Didier lost two-thirds of his production to frost, but the wines are of excellent quality. The grapes were in such perfect condition when harvested that no cuvées were chaptalised. Unbeatable value. White Bourgogne Blanc Ripe, perfumed and intense, this shows smooth pear and citrus fruit, and is bright and fresh. Drink Case price per Bottles 108 Red Côte-de-Nuits Villages 100% whole-bunch fermentation gives freshness to a dense, rich darkly fruited wine with rounded chocolatey tannins and a long fine finish. Drink Côte-de-Nuits Villages Rue des Foins From two parcels, one with ninety-year-old vines, the other with vines over fifty. Dense black fruit with spicy smoky coffee notes is balanced by very fine tannins and a lovely freshness. Drink Bottles Halves Magnums 198 Jeroboam Each Bottles

34 Côte de Nuits Nuits-Saint-Georges Henri Gouges Gregory Gouges 2016 was a hard year for Gregory Gouges. He lost 65% of his crop to frost, with damage particularly extensive south of Nuits, and was then hit by strong attacks of mildew, so much so that at the end of July he began to question his commitment to organic viticulture. Sixteen separate treatments mitigated but did not prevent further losses. Nonetheless he kept the faith, and the little wine that he made is outstanding. There is a little more new oak in the wines 30% as opposed to the normal 20%, but it is easily swallowed by the dense fruit. Nuits-Saint-Georges The village has benefited from the addition of grapes from two 1er crus, Chaignots and Chaines Carteaux. There is dense, smooth fine fruit with hints of spice, an attractive roundness and a fresh finish. Drink Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er cru, Clos-des-Porrets Very ripe, generous spicy black fruit joined by chocolatey tannins and a long smooth fresh finish. Drink Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er cru, Les Pruliers More intense than the Porrets, with redder fruit, this has gentle spice notes and powerful smooth chocolate and coffee flavours on the finish. Drink Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er cru, Les Vaucrains A yield of 11 hl/ha gives a thicker denser texture, but it remains very fresh. There is a knot of fine red fruit, a smooth minerality and a concentrated vibrant finish. Drink Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er cru, Les Saint-Georges A more accessible wine than the Vaucrains, with more immediately charming energetic black fruit. It is very dense nonetheless, with fine dark chocolatey tannins and lovely elegance and length. Drink

35 Côte de Nuits Nuits-Saint-Georges Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny Frédéric Mugnier Very low yields: both Chambolle and southern Nuits were hard hit by frost. The only bright spot was Bonnes Mares, which was unaffected. The grapes that survived were lovely. Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er cru, Clos de la Maréchale Powerful, dense spicy black fruit balanced by typical ripe, muscular tannins, along with a silkiness that reveals the expert hand of the winemaker: a Nuits made in Chambolle. Drink Halves Magnums

36 Côte de Nuits Vosne-Romanée COTE DE NUITS Vosne-Romanée Bruno Clavelier Bruno Clavelier Bruno Clavelier was one of the first in Vosne to adopt biodynamic methods. His wines are understated and elegant, and they reflect their terroirs perfectly. He believes he was very lucky that his grandfather did not use commercial fertilisers on his vineyards, as the potassium residue, which takes generations to break down, lowers the acidity in the grapes. As a result his wines have levels of freshness that his neighbours find more difficult to achieve. In 2016 he lost about half his crop, with losses particularly in Chambolle and parts of Vosne there is no Montagne this year. There is a greater proportion of whole bunch fermentation around 40% - partially to fill the cuves but this has helped the wines retain freshness. Vosne-Romanée, Les Hautes Maizières Rich, ripe, spicy red fruit with Mediterranean herbal aromas in a dense muscular package that has a fine, lingering finish. Drink Vosne-Romanée, La Combe Brûlée Spicy, ripe and mineral-driven, this has appealing dark fruit and lots of bright energy to offset the considerable concentration. Drink Vosne-Romanée 1er cru, Aux Brûlées, Vieilles Vignes A very dense wine indeed this year, showing very sweet spicy fine dark fruit, supple tannins and a smooth, fresh elegant finish. Drink

37 Côte de Nuits Vosne-Romanée Bruno Clavelier (cond.) Vosne-Romanée 1er cru, Les Beaux-Monts, Vieilles Vignes Not as affected by frost, so yields, though still painfully low, are more generous. This is elegant, relaxed and fine, with ripe fruit and gentle minerality running through to a long sweet/salty finish. Drink Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru, Les Corbeaux Les Corbeaux is in the wind corridor of the valley leading to Chamboeuf, and the grapes benefit from the freshness the breezes bring. The wine is rich and perfumed, with a lovely fluidity and brightness aided by 50% whole-bunch fermentation. The fruit is dark and rich, the texture fine, and there are fresh spices on the long finish. Drink Chambolle-Musigny 1er cru, La Combe d Orveaux Situated just across from Le Musigny, this is a 1er cru on the verge of grand cru status. A quarter of the normal crop was harvested here, and the resulting wine is concentrated, showing fresh blackcurrant and blackberry fruit, spice, silky tannins and a long juicy finish. Drink Corton, Le Rognet A big wine with complex fruit, starting out with floral notes of rose petal, and progressing to quince and fig. There are powerful mineral flavours too, backed by dense fine chocolate tannins, and the finish is long and fresh. Drink

38 Côte de Nuits Vosne-Romanée Jean Grivot Etienne Grivot Etienne Grivot suffered less damage from frost than many others, but still lost around a third of his crop. The quality is excellent, with pure fresh wines that are true to their terroir. Just 180kg of grapes (the equivalent of half a barrel) were harvested in Chambolle, so there is none this year. Vosne-Romanée Dense, plummy and rounded, this has sweet well defined fruit and a silky finish. Classic Vosne. Drink Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er cru, Les Pruliers The cooler location means that the vines need more time to finish ripening, but since the frost saw off almost half of the production, the vines were able to put their energies into a rapid maturation of the remaining grapes. Always a powerful wine, this year it is particularly dense and rich, full of spicy black cherry fruit. It is also very fine (no mean feat in this vineyard), full of energy and length. Drink Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er cru, Aux Boudots Much more Vosne-like in style, this has a dense knot of reddish fruit that shades to black as the fine chocolate tannins kick in, accompanied by powerful mineral flavours. Drink Vosne-Romanée 1er cru, Les Rouges Soils rich in iron and gravel at the top of the hill above Echézeaux give a vibrant mineral-driven wine with fine tannic structure and great depth of dense spicy red-berry fruit and a touch of white flowers. Drink

39 Côte de Nuits Vosne-Romanée Jean Grivot (cond.) Vosne-Romanée 1er cru, Les Beaumonts The fruit is dense and rich, but precise and pure, the tannins are fine and ripe, and there is plenty of energy that keeps it going to the long velvety finish. Drink bottles 399 Clos Vougeot For once, having a parcel lower down the slope proved to be an advantage, as there was heavy frost around the more favoured plots near the Château. This is plummy, rich and round, with plenty of fine tannin and excellent bounce. Drink Echézeaux Incredibly dense and concentrated fruit is lifted by plentiful energy, and it drives to a long, chocolatey finish. Drink bottles 675 Richebourg Massive, rich and fine with huge depth, intensity and, unsurprisingly, enormous persistence. Drink bottle

40 Côte de Nuits Vosne-Romanée Mugneret-Gibourg Marie-Andrée & Marie-Christine Mugneret Marie-Andrée described 2016 as a miracle vintage, which they vinified like a sickly child of whom one has no great expectations. And it has turned out brilliantly, beyond anything they could imagine, small but perfectly formed. Vosne-Romanée This is fresh, pure and fine, with lovely sweet, plummy spicy fruit and a lingering finish. Drink POA 12 Halves POA Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er cru, Les Chaignots Fifty-year-old vines give sweet strawberry fruit that is elegant and fresh, and there is an exciting mineral tension that runs to a perfectly balanced finish. Drink POA 40

41 Côte de Nuits Vosne-Romanée Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Vougeot Charles van Canneyt Charles van Canneyt reported a classic precise vintage of great freshness and good terroir definition. Since 2016 he has stopped fermenting whole bunches, as he feels it blurs the differences between the vineyards. His yields in Chambolle were down by half, and elsewhere a third. Bourgogne Rouge Everything you can ask from a Bourgogne: rich and dense, with pretty red fruit, nice freshness and good length. Drink Chambolle-Musigny Lots of ripe red cherry fruit, mineral drive and an abundance of energy make this lovely now but also full of promise. Drink Vosne-Romanée From Les Basses Maizières, below Les Suchots, and a classic Vosne: a rich weave of perfumed, sweet and velvety fruit freshened by vibrant acidity and a mineral undercurrent. Drink Vougeot 1er cru, Les Petit Vougeot Stony soil gives a very mineral, dense wine that has crunchy red fruit, fine tannins, and excellent length. The wine that Charles most likes to drink young. Drink Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er cru, Les Murgers Always the first vineyard to be harvested, as the grapes ripen so quickly. Dense and chocolatey, with sweet smooth rounded blackish fruit and dark supporting tannins. Drink

42 Côte de Nuits Vosne-Romanée Alain Hudelot-Noëllat (cond.) Chambolle-Musigny 1er cru, Les Charmes Gorgeous, precise red fruit dominates at first, but there is a fine minerality too, the whole driven by appealing energy and freshness. Drink Vosne-Romanée 1er cru, Beaumonts Finely woven spiced plum fruit is underpinned by firm fine tannins and minerals. The whole is full of energy, and a delightful silky texture is in evidence as it progresses to an intense long finish. Drink Vosne-Romanée 1er cru, Les Suchots Vines planted in 1910 in deep clay give a very ripe dense wine with sweet spicy red fruits, silky tannins and an energetic long finish. Drink Clos-de-Vougeot From vines situated between the chateau and the wall bordering Le Musigny. There is dark rich fruit here covering powerful lurking tannins, and a fine minerality that lends a touch of silk to the persistent finish. Drink Romanée-Saint-Vivant Vines planted in the 1920s give gorgeously floral, pure and fine red fruit of great finesse. The freshness is very moreish, and although this will reward ageing it is very tempting now! Drink Bottles Magnum 600 Richebourg Unusually giving at this stage, the wine is as big and powerful as one would expect, but its richness is complemented by an ethereal quality that make it extremely seductive. Drink Bottles Magnum

43 Côte de Nuits Chambolle-Musigny COTE DE NUITS Chambolle-Musigny Ghislaine Barthod Ghislaine Barthod Ghislaine Barthod loves 2016, describing it as a classic vintage with density and concentration % of the crop was lost, and yields are correspondingly low. Chambolle-Musigny A very rich wine with perfumed, crunchy raspberry fruit, delightful intensity and power, as well as elegance and silky length. Drink

44 Côte de Nuits Chambolle-Musigny Hudelot-Baillet Dominique Le Guen Like other Chambolle growers, Dominique Le Guen saw his yields fall by half, except for Bonnes Mares, which was spared the frost. He is very pleased with the quality though. White Bourgogne Blanc Hautes Côtes de Nuits Harvested very late, this is delightfully fruity, fresh and vibrant, with some earthy mineral flavours and good length. Drink Red Bourgogne Rouge Fresh and rich, this has ripe sweet fruit with a hint of spice, and good length. Drink Chambolle-Musigny, Vieilles Vignes Ranging in age from fifty-five to eighty-five, the vines give a dense wine filled with juicy red fruit that shades to black, and fine balancing tannins. Drink Chambolle-Musigny 1er cru, Les Charmes Sixty-year-old vines from two separate parcels, one lying a little higher than the other, give a quite delicious, seamlessly elegant wine with juicy raspberry fruit, rich chocolatey tannins and a very long fine finish. Drink

45 Côte de Nuits Chambolle-Musigny Côte de Nuits Morey-Saint-Denis Hudelot-Baillet (cond.) Chambolle-Musigny 1er cru, Les Cras A more typically masculine wine, made from 75-year-old vines. After the frost the vineyard was so badly affected that it took a month for the vegetation to take hold again; the resulting wine is powerful, with rich tannins and a massive mineral presence easily matched by the dense ripe black fruit. Drink Bonnes Mares The first vineyard to be harvested, this was also spared by frost. Eighty-year-old vines give delicate, dark fruit of great purity and depth, and underneath are powerful, elegant tannins and vibrant acidity. Drink bottles 450 COTE DE NUITS Morey-Saint-Denis Dujac Fils et Père Morey-Saint-Denis was the commune least affected by frost in 2016, but even here, yields are lower than the norm. The fruit was very ripe though, and the tannins easy to extract, so there was less punching down and more gentle pumping over. Morey-Saint-Denis 90% whole-bunch fermentation gives vibrant sweet fruit of considerable density and purity, and there are spicy notes on the long finish. Drink

46 Côte de Nuits Morey-Saint-Denis Jérôme Castagnier Jérôme Castagnier Irrepressibly energetic, charming and optimistic, Jérôme Castagnier has made another lovely set of wines in the third year of our relationship. After working as a professional classical and jazz trumpet player in Paris, he returned to Morey in Like 2015, he considers 2016 to be a great vintage. It is very forward and attractive, but deceptively so, as behind the abundant fruit is the terroir which will take time to emerge. Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru, Les Cazetiers Very dense sweet fruit combines with delicious freshness, and there is a velvety quality to the supple tannins. Underneath the mass of fruit there is a hint of minerality, and it finishes very long. Drink Echézeaux From white soils lower down the slope. There is a delicate floral note next to the rich spicy black pepper fruit. On the palate it is very dense and fine, with a well defined minerality and precise tannins. Drink Bonnes Mares Perfumed and elegant, this is packed with sweet black cherry fruit, concentrated, powerful tannins and a juicy, very long mineral-driven sweet/salty finish. Drink Mazy-Chambertin Unsurprisingly, there is great density and power here: the fruit is ripe, black and concentrated, the tannins rich and the finish intense and long. Drink

47 Côte de Nuits Morey-Saint-Denis Robert Groffier Nicolas Groffier Another fine year from the eloquent Nicolas Groffier who describes it as a combination of 2013 and It was an easy vintage to work, with no significant losses from frost, and notably none in Sentiers or Amoureuses. He ascribes this to a happy accident, having mowed between his vines just a few days before the cold snap, the humidity, and thus the susceptibility to freezing, was reduced. Bourgogne Passetoutgrain Along with Lafarge, the domaine makes the best Passetoutgrain we know. It has fresh, very ripe black cherry fruit and lovely finesse and balance. For Nicolas, it is the equivalent of having a beer delicious, uncomplicated and refreshing. Drink Bourgogne Rouge Crunchy, bright red fruit with lovely purity and length. Many other growers would be proud to call this their village: it has definition and real energy. Drink Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Seuvrées 50% whole-bunch fermentation gives lifted, vibrant black fruit flavours with some spice, well integrated tannins and a gentle minerality on the finish. It is more about elegance than power. Drink Chambolle Musigny 1er cru, Les Hauts Doix No frost damage here. Densely woven ripe strawberry fruit is given definition by elegant tannins and vibrant acidity, and the finish is fresh, precise and long. Drink

48 Côte de Nuits Morey-Saint-Denis Robert Groffier (cond.) Chambolle Musigny 1er cru, Les Sentiers Old vines gave very small berries, so here 100% of the grapes were not destemmed. There is rich, rounded vibrant strawberry and cherry fruit that runs through to the juicy finish, and the tannins are quite present, giving it a serious angular character. It will keep well. Drink Chambolle Musigny 1er cru, Les Amoureuses Although Groffier is the largest holder of Amoureuses, with 1.2 hectares, the style is different to that of most other growers. It has great finesse and length, but normally the emphasis is on power and density rather than on the ethereal qualities teased out by his neighbours. This year three plane trees protected his vines from the early morning sun, so the buds did not freeze. At 15%, there is much less new wood than in previous years, as the new barrels did not arrive on time. The result is amazing: an absolutely gorgeous wine. The fruit is pure, ripe and delicious, and has great depth, the tannins and minerality meld seamlessly with it, and the whole is a marvel of harmony. Drink ,494 48

49 Côte de Nuits Morey-Saint-Denis des Lambrays Boris Champy In 2016 veteran Thierry Brouin was joined by Boris Champy, who will succeed him when he retires. There were some frost problems with the village wines, but otherwise yields were normal. The wines will be bottled early to preserve freshness. Thierry retires in April of this year, and he has gone out on a high: the wines are quite brilliant. White Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru, Clos du Cailleret Very citrus and mineral-driven, this has a lovely delicacy and finesse, and a long satisfyingly rich finish. Drink Red Morey-Saint-Denis 1er cru Les Loups A lifted, floral wine with ripe red fruit, elegant tannins and a lovely long finish. Drink Clos-des-Lambrays A big, rich wine with rounded red and black fruit. 85% wholebunch fermentation lends a lifted freshness to the rich tannins, and there is a lovely delicacy as the great terroir emerges on the long elegant finish. Drink , Halves 1,044 3 Magnums 1,044 49

50 Côte de Nuits Gevrey-Chambertin COTE DE NUITS Gevrey-Chambertin Denis Bachelet Denis Bachelet Denis Bachelet reported little frost damage, but the very difficult start to the growing season, with strong pressure from mildew, meant a reduced yield. Hail in Brochon and the rapid change from wet weather to drought did not help. There have been some changes since A new cooper is providing barrels which Denis and his son Nicolas find bring out the sweetness of fruit more effectively, and they have made efforts to effect a more gentle extraction of tannins by reducing the number of punchdowns during fermentation. The wines are amongst the best he has made. White Bourgogne Aligoté The naturally high acidity is tempered by the rich ripe fruit, and this is beautifully made, easy and accessible. A lovely Aligoté! Drink Red Bourgogne Rouge Ripe and round black fruit, freshness and charm. What more can one ask? Drink Côte-de-Nuits Villages More intense than the Bourgogne, sh0wing spicy rich dark fruit, rounded tannins and a long fresh finish. Drink Gevrey-Chambertin, Vieilles Vignes An intense wine, full of black fruit with a floral note and a hint of smoke, fine present tannins, and an attractive polished fresh finish. The energy is breath-taking. Drink

51 Côte de Nuits Gevrey-Chambertin Bachelet (cond.) Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Evocelles Very thin soils less than 20cm deep high on the slope give a firmer, more mineral-driven wine that is very precise, and shows an abundance of black spicy fruit. There is a touch of the ethereal, as well as silky tannins, and a long saline finish. Drink

52 Côte de Nuits Gevrey-Chambertin René Bouvier Bernard Bouvier Bernard Bouvier makes polished, very accessible wines mainly in Marsannay and Gevrey, but also from vineyards further down the Côte. He farms entirely organically, and firmly believes that he only began to discern the real terroir of his wines after the switch ten years ago. He has the good fortune to possess vines that are mostly over fifty years old. Frost hit Marsannay hard, but the wines produced there are of superb quality. Marsannay, Clos du Roy Clearly the best vineyard in Marsannay, with sandy limestonerich soils. The vines are sixty years old, and this year give a very dense, serious wine with black fruit, minerals and a long supple finish. Drink Gevrey-Chambertin, La Justice Pebble-rich limestone soils give a perfumed, floral wine with charming ripe black fruit, excellent richness and roundness, and a long fine finish. Drink Gevrey-Chambertin, Racine du Temps Très Vieilles Vignes Ninety-year-old vines give enormous intensity and length. This is dense and ripe, with powerful black fruit, a very fine tannic structure and a delicate mineral backbone. It finishes on a juicy soft black fruit note. Drink Charmes-Chambertin From Mazoyères, which can also be declared as Charmes, just under Latricières. A massive, structured wine that is intense and rich, showing ripe black fruit and an undercurrent of minerals. Drink

53 Côte de Nuits Gevrey-Chambertin Fourrier Jean-Marie Fourrier Yields are down pretty much across the board here. The frost caused extensive millerandage and flowering was late; on top of this there was a drought and much less juice in the grapes a result. The quality is superb. White Bourgogne Blanc Rounded scented fruit and fresh vibrant mineral flavours make this very attractive. Drink Red Gevrey-Chambertin From a vineyard to the north of the village, planted in 1928, and firmer than its southern brother. There is perfumed, forward red fruit with notes of spice in a smooth, relaxed package. It is well defined and perfectly balanced. Drink Gevrey-Chambertin, Aux Echézeaux From vines to the south of Gevrey, below the grands crus on the Morey border. Very floral and elegant rounded fruit is supported by discreet tannins that emerge with fine mineral flavours on the finish. Drink Vougeot 1er cru, Les Petit Vougeots Not tasted. Drink Morey-Saint-Denis, Clos Solon Dense ripe blackish fruit with floral notes is backed by fine tannins, and the finish is elegant and long. Drink

54 Côte de Nuits Gevrey-Chambertin Fourrier (cond.) Chambolle-Musigny Not tasted. Drink Chambolle-Musigny 1er cru, Les Gruenchers Not tasted. Drink Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru, Les Cherbaudes Densely planted vines from the 1940s give a fine weave of ripe rounded red fruit, supple tannins and fresh balancing acidity. Drink Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru, Les Goulots Spicy floral fruit is tautened by a pronounced mineral element, which drives to a very long finish indeed. Drink Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru, La Combe-aux-Moines Fine, persistent and juicy, this has lots of power, rich mineral flavours, dark fruit of great depth and rounded ripe tannins. Drink

55 Côte de Nuits Gevrey-Chambertin Geantet-Pansiot Vincent and Fabien Geantet Fabien and Vincent Geantet make superb and unjustly overlooked wines: they taste extremely well young and also have a great capacity to age. A new cuverie has enabled them to become more flexible in their winemaking and maturation, resulting in wines that reflect their origins more precisely. Bottling used to be very early, as they needed the space in the cellar; now the wines are given more time in cask. Yields are down for the most part, especially in Marsannay due to frost, but there were no problems with mildew, as they invested in the latest technology, a tractor that can treat nine vine rows at a time. As in 2015, there was a lighter touch during fermentation, with little pumping over or punching down to prevent overextraction. Gevrey-Chambertin Elegant rounded black fruit and supple tannins progress smoothly across the palate, finishing fine and long. Drink Gevrey-Chambertin, Vieilles Vignes More complex and defined than its younger brother, not surprisingly there is also more power here, along with a mass of black-cherry fruit, spice, supple tannins and a long mineral finish. Drink Gevrey-Chambertin, En Champs Perfumed and inviting, there is raspberry fruit on show, and a lovely freshness to the chocolate and liquorice tinged tannins. But don t be fooled, for behind the facade hundred-and-twelveyear-old vines give great power, precision, depth and persistence. It will be attractive young, but will run and run. Drink