Welcome to The Society s Caroline Frey: Jaboulet & La Lagune tasting.

Transcription

1 Welcome to The Society s Caroline Frey: Jaboulet & La Lagune tasting. Family businesses don t really come much better than the Freys, who own both Château La Lagune in Bordeaux and Paul Jaboulet Aîné in the Rhône. We are delighted to be joined by winemaker Caroline Frey and Jacques Desvernois, winemaker and production manager at Paul Jaboulet Aîné, for this special walk-around tasting celebrating the wines of both estates. Caroline took the helm of third growth Château La Lagune from her father in 2004 having graduated top of her class at Bordeaux University, where she was taught by the renowned professor Denis Dubourdieu. During her tenure she has overseen the rebuilding of the winery and has also gone on to become a winemaker at the legendary Domaines Paul Jaboulet Aîné in the Rhône Valley when the family purchased it in Jaboulet was founded in 1834 and is often credited with transforming the Rhône into one of the most important wine-growing regions in the world, with a portfolio headed by the iconic La Chapelle, one of the world s greatest reds. The Society s sweetness code: White wines from bone dry [1] to lusciously sweet [9]. = white wine = red wine The Rhône Valley The vineyards around the Rhône Valley fall naturally into two groups the north and the south. The north produces less than one tenth of the total production, most of which is fine wine. Here syrah is king, while marsanne, rousanne and viognier make the whites. The south is far more diverse: grenache dominates, increasingly supplemented by syrah and mourvèdre, amid a broad palate of varieties. The total production of the northern Rhône is tiny, at less than 5% of that of the total Rhône Valley, especially when it is considered that of this 5%, Crôzes Hermitage represents over half. The continental climate experienced in the north means that in some years the grapes do not ripen fully and vintage variation can be marked. Producing over 3.5m hectolitres, the southern Rhône is the second- biggest region for the production of appellation contrôlée wine after Bordeaux. About 89% of the wine produced in the region is red, though production of both white and pink is growing. Some 20 grape varieties are planted in the south though one in particular, grenache, gives the region as a whole its identity: namely generosity, body, weight and a definite tendency to making big wines. More than half of the production in the southern Rhône is of Côtes-du-Rhône with the best sold as Côtes-du-Rhône Villages. Better still are the so-called crus, led by Châteauneuf-du-Pape itself. Bordeaux Haut-Médoc The Haut-Médoc is situated in the higher, southern part of the Médoc district of Bordeaux on the left bank of the Gironde River. Home to appellations such as Margaux, St. Julien and Pauillac, the great distinction of the area is its gravel subsoils which provide excellent drainage and enhance ripening. Structurally, left-bank claret is medium-bodied with medium alcohol (approximately 12.5%) and, depending on age, firm but well-integrated tannins. Flavours range from cassis and blackcurrant to cedar and fresh pencil shavings. Cabernet sauvignon dominates here with merlot and cabernet franc playing supporting roles.

2 1. [2] Côtes-du-Rhône Secret de Famille Blanc, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2015 The aromatic viognier grape accounts for just 25% of the blend yet dominates with its soft, fresh peachy flavours and lovely rounded fruit. Drink now to % ref RH bottle 102 dozen The 45th parallel, situated half way between the equator and the north pole, runs through some of the best vineyards in the Northern and Southern Hemisphere. It threads its way through the Bordeaux and Cotes du Rhone regions of France, Italy s Piedmont, the Willamette Valley of Oregon and New Zealand s Central Otago regions amongst others. 2. [2] Saint-Péray La Sauvagère, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2015 Utterly gorgeous marsanne from the northern Rhône. This has freshness, a touch of citrus and blossom and full flavour. Try with dressed crab. Drink now to % ref RH bottle 167 dozen Saint-Péray is situated on the right bank of the Rhône to the west of Valence, and is the southernmost of the northern Rhône appellations. Its 75 ha of vineyards are on limestone and granite soils, and this coupled with the area s cool microclimate makes Saint-Péray ideal for the production of mineral and floral whites made from marsanne and roussanne. 3. [2] Crozes-Hermitage Mule Blanche, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2014 Made from 50:50 marsanne and roussanne, this is round and fleshy with flashes of lemon and honeysuckle. Drink now to % ref RH bottle 264 dozen Marsanne-roussanne blends are a northern Rhône staple marsanne give the wine body, roussanne gives aroma, finesse and aging capacity. 4. [2] Magnums of Saint-Joseph Blanc Croix des Vignes, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2014 From Saint-Joseph on the right bank of the Rhône river this is one-third roussanne, two-thirds marsanne and the first vintage from a small plot of very well-placed vines. This has finesse and length with good grip. Delightful. Drink now to % ref RH magnum 450 six magnums Very low stock 5. [2] Condieu Les Cassines, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2015 This Condrieu owes its name to the numerous fishermen s houses along the banks of the river Rhône, known as cassines. This 100% viognier is whole-bunch pressed and fermented at low temperatures in stainless-steel tanks and partially in oak. Rounded, full and rich with a fresh floral note the perfect wine for foie gras. For tasting only

3 Situated on the right bank of the Rhône, Condrieu is famous for its white wines made solely from viognier, and is the northernmost white wine appellation in the Rhône Valley. Condrieu s narrow terraces are generally composed of granite and arzelle, a mixture of decomposed granite, mica, shale and clay that apparently gives the wines their fruity aromas of peaches and apricots. Fresh and aromatic, Condrieu is often described as floral, fruity and, with a little bottle age, can have notes of musk and gingerbread. Susceptible to oxidisation, the wine should generally be enjoyed when young. 6. [2] Hermitage Blanc Le Chevalier de Sterimberg, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2003 Curiously enough the cauldron vintage of 2003 produced white wines of great elegance. The blend is 50:50 marsanne and roussanne, fermented and raised in oak barrels. Aged hermitage works well with mature hard cheeses. Drink this year. 14.5% ref RH bottle 468 dozen Very low stock 2003 was the year of extremes even for winemakers, for whom inconsistent weather and uncertainty are a way of life. Europe suffered under a brutal heat wave and drought that drastically cut the crop size. For normally cool regions, this turned out to be largely good news, as grapes ripened more easily than usual and many of the wines turned out to be quite rich and opulent. Winemakers in warmer regions often struggled with sunburned or shriveled grapes, along with abnormally high sugar levels that could lead to overly alcoholic or otherwise unbalanced wines. Those who were successful in dealing with the challenges made very concentrated wines. 7. Côtes du Rhône, Wine Society Reserve Cask Sample 2015 A blend made exclusively for The Wine Society, offered fresh from cask without fining or filtering. Opening offer Although Côtes-du-Rhône may come from anywhere in the Rhône valley, in practice it is all made in the southern Rhône. The climate here is mediterranean and this is reflected in the choice of the main grape variety, grenache. Though there are village appellations, like Châteauneuf-du-Pape, most wine from the southern Rhône is sold as Côtes-du-Rhône. Typically, a Côtes-du-Rhône should be generous in its flavour; round and full-bodied with just a touch of spiciness or fruit, depending on which other varieties are used to complement the grenache. 8. Ventoux Les Traverses, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2015 Named after the walls which support and protect the earth in Ventoux from significant erosion, Les Traverses is a blend of 80% grenache and 20% syrah vinified in stainless-steel tanks to maintain freshness and purity of fruit. ref RH bottle 90 dozen

4 Stainless steel is inert, and so ensures that the flavours of the grape variety shine through in the wine rather than flavours of oak. Stainless steel also has thermal conductivity which reduces internal heating and simple cooling systems can be used to ensure that ideal fermentation temperatures can be achieved and maintained. Meanwhile, the slow oxygenation of the wine as a result of spending time in barrel helps to reduce the fresh, grapy primary aromas of young wines and deepens and stabilises the wine s colour, softens its tannins and increases the complexity of flavour compounds. By contrast American oak (quercus alba) generally imparts a more obvious vanilla and coconut flavour to the wine than the creamy, spice influence of European oak (quercus petraea and robur). 9. Côtes du Rhône Plan De Dieu, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2014 The Plan de Dieu is the continuation of Cairanne and Rasteau, and is seen as a perfect place for growing grenache and mourvèdre, to which a little syrah is added. The 2014 vintage has blessed this wine with concentration and charm with flavours of spice, dry figs and wild herbs. For tasting only In the dry, hot vineyards of the southern Rhône, grenache produces small, thick-skinned berries which produce deep-coloured wines which can be tannic in their youth, with herbal, spice flavours coupled with a certain ripe sweetness and high alcohol. 10. Gigondas Pierre Aiguille, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2010 From one of the southern Rhône s most approachable appellations, this Gigondas is round and aromatic with great depth and red-fruit attack. A delicious blend of 80% grenache, 10% syrah and 10% mourvedre that s spent six months in oak casks. Drink now to % ref RH bottle 216 dozen Gigondas was promoted to its own AC in The cru is made up of 1,216 ha of which 99% of the production is of red wines. The Dentelles play a big part in Gigondas as they limit the vineyards exposure to the sun in the morning thereby significantly lengthening the maturation of grenache (which can make up to 80% of the blend). Syrah and mourvèdre, which must account for a minimum of 15% of the blend, give colour and spice. 11. Château La Lagune, Haut-Médoc 2010 This is an outstanding vintage for this high-performing estate a touch more powerful and structured than the lovely 2009 and worth keeping for 10 years at least. Merlot (35%) was very velvety in this year, with 10% petit verdot giving added freshness, body and spice and 55% cabernet sauvignon elegance and class. All three varieties are beautifully balanced. Drink from 2020 to % ref CM bottle 600 dozen The blend of cabernet sauvignon with merlot is like an excellent marriage where one partner complements the other and brings out the best in them. Unless cabernet sauvignon is very ripe it tends to have lots of structure and rather less fruit. This can often result in a hole in the middle palate known colloquially as the doughnut effect. To combat this cabernet has traditionally been blended with the softer, fruitier and plumper merlot. Together the two create a fruity, elegant and classy partnership.

5 12. Château La Lagune, Haut-Médoc 2009 Full, well-balanced claret with a delicious fragrant finish on the palate. Caroline Frey describes this as a serene vintage as a result of fresh nights and warm days in the lead up to the harvest, which resulted in healthy grapes. The addition of 15% petit verdot gives freshness to the blend which is otherwise made up of 60% cabernet sauvignon and 25% merlot. Drink now to % ref CM bottle 600 dozen 13. Crozes-Hermitage Les Jalets, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2014 A deliciously vibrant northern Rhône syrah with black-fruit flavour and soft ripe tannins, from a vintage that is already delivering real pleasure. Much of the fruit comes from Jaboulet s own vines at Domaine de Thalabert. ref RH bottle 162 dozen Crozes-Hermitage accounts for more than half of what the northern Rhône produces and as such is the standard bearer for the syrah grape. Syrah is a relatively thick skinned grape with very dark juice, which here is grown close to its northernmost limit. Typically, it produces dark-coloured wines that sometimes hint at blackberry, blackcurrant or even olive, and the best wines improve with age. 14. Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2012 A Crozes with backbone! Dark, brooding and backward it may be, but what a lot of flavour and fruit beneath it all. Fabulous! Drink now to % ref RH bottle 288 dozen The trademark flavour of French syrah is black pepper, though as the wines mature they can develop aromas of leather and, in very ripe years, spice. The best wines have flavours of blackberry, blackcurrant and violets, whilst some have notes of chocolate, liquorice, and coffee. 15. Saint-Joseph La Croix des Vignes, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2010 From Jaboulet s own property in the most northerly part of the Saint-Joseph appellation. The 2010 is outstanding, glorious in its depth of flavour and the quality of its fruit. Drinking now but best kept for another few years. Drink now to % ref RH bottle 372 dozen Created in 1956, Saint-Joseph is the second-largest appellation in the northern Rhône with over 1160 hectares of vineyards. Red wines dominate, with over 90% of the production being from syrah. The whites tend to be blends of marsanne and roussanne. As Saint-Joseph is a long and narrow AC, there is no particular characteristic of the commune, with some tending towards Côte-Rôtie in style and others towards Cornas. The one unifying link is their fragrance and the best examples tend to offer great value for their class.

6 16. Côte-Rôtie Domaine des Pierrelles, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2009 From one of Jaboulet s tiny vineyard sites at the southern end of Côte-Rôtie near the village of Tupin. Very Côte Blonde in style, this is delicate, soft and beguiling. Drink now to % ref RH bottle 660 dozen Very low stock 1 bottle max per member Côte-Rôtie is one of the most famous of the northern Rhône appellations. The appellation covers 255 hectares, with nearly 60 official vineyards. The wines are made from syrah, but up to 20% of viognier can also be used, adding finesse, elegance and floral characteristics to the wine. What defines the greatest wines from Côte-Rôtie is the vineyard s position on steep southern-facing slopes that protect the vines from the northern winds. The soils producing the boldest wines are clay-based with decomposing schist and mica, primarily in the center and north of the appellation. In the centre and south more sandy-granite soils produce more floral aromatics. 17. Cornas Les Grandes Terrasses, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2012 Though Jaboulet is better known for Hermitage and Crozes, the family has always felt very close to Cornas on the other side of the river and remains so to this day. Because quantities are so small in 2013, only one Cornas was made so this uses up all the grapes which would usually go into their Saint-Pierre Cornas. Sweet, ripe blackcurrant fruit, sinewy and with good length of flavour. Drink now to % For tasting only Cornas is a small appellation situated on the right bank of the Rhône, on the eastern slopes of the Massif Central. The vineyards mostly face fully south, nestled in an amphitheatre of mostly granite, which protects the vines from the cold Mistral wind. The climate here is significantly warmer so Cornas is often among the first to harvest, resulting in wines that are black, powerful and often tannic in their youth. 18. Cornas Domaines de Saint Pierre, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2006 Situated in an ideal southerly facing location atop the granite plateau near the chapel of which this prized domaine takes its name. With just over 10 years ageing this rich and distinguished Cornas is starting to show savoury spice and liquorice notes whilst maintaining power and elegance. ref RH bottle 336 dozen 19. Magnums of Hermitage La Chapelle, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2006 La Chapelle truly is one of the world s greatest red wines and, certainly since Caroline Frey took the helm, in even shorter supply thanks to stringent selection during the blending to make a truly distinguished wine that reflects some of its greatest ever vintages. Delightful now but certainly no rush! Drink now to % ref RH magnums 1,140 six magnums

7 Hermitage is the most famous of the northern Rhône appellations, producing very limited quantities of extremely long-lived and fine red and white wines. The wines all come from 132 hectares of especially well-favoured vines on the south facing, steep hill of Hermitage. A bank of heat-retaining granite, covered with extremely varied top soils which ripens the grapes perfectly. The reds are made from syrah and the whites from marsanne or sometimes from the less common roussanne. 20. Hermitage La Chapelle, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 1990 Gérard Jaboulet compared this to the great 1961 vintage, often regarded as one of the greatest wines of all time. Opulent, concentrated, with a very long finish and marvellously ripe syrah fruit, this may be the wine of the vintage in the Rhône. Drink now to % ref RH bottle 5,760 dozen