Fine dining at its finest. By Leigh Tahirovic Photos by Quentin Roux

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1 M Dining on Marco Denis Meurgue adds a flambe touch to one of his dishes in the Bistro Soleil kitchen. Fine dining at its finest MARCO 16 By Leigh Tahirovic Photos by Quentin Roux

2 One of the attractions of the restaurant is its variety of decor in its many dining areas, from formal all the way to bright and casual. Bistro Soleil temps taste buds with French cuisine I just love the whole fine dining experience. Whether it is the masterfully prepared and scrumptious dishes, the intimate setting of a beautiful restaurant or the relaxing time spent enjoying a meal, Bistro Soleil sets the bar high. Set in the historic Olde Marco Inn, Bistro Soleil is the creative handiwork of the Meurgues. Together, they are a perfectly matched pair responsible for Bistro Soleil s overall success. Denis is the chef and creator behind the scene of the restaurant s delicious French cuisine while Lisa, the maitre d, stops by every table inquiring if a diner s whim has been satisfied. While some Islanders are familiar with the Meurgue s from another local restaurant, Island Café, I never had the pleasure of dining there. So, for my recent outing to Bistro Soleil, I didn t have a frame of reference as what to expect. Our evening started with a bit of a delay, because my husband, Rama, and I waited for our table, despite having a reservation. But it was worth the wait, because the table had very comfortable chairs and the next table was far enough away so as to not impose on us at all. Appetizers were our first taste of the French cuisine. I had Fromage de chever, a crispy goat cheese tart with caramelized balsamic vinegar, and a tomato-cumin marmalade. Despite hating tomatoes, I really enjoyed the A popular entree at the restaurant is the bacon-wrapped beef tenderloin served with jumbo shrimp and Cabernet reduction wine sauce. MARCO 17

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4 Rounding up the meal is a key lime mousse with raspberry sauce and berries, presented here by waitstaffer Sondra Baier. dish, which blended flavors together to create a delightful appetizer that two people could have easily shared. Moules provencales was Rama s choice. Described on the menu as Price Edward Island mussels, steamed with herbs, garlic and white wine, Rama devoured each bite, with a smile denoting his pleasure. The dish was large enough to share, too, and appears as an entree on the menu, as well. Accompanying the appetizers was a basket of fresh breads, on which Rama munched while eating his mussels. A small salad was served next. It was a mix of romaine and other fancy greens, served with the perfect amount of a ranch-like dressing. But, the dressing was a little bland for my liking. A bit of crushed black pepper punched up the dish. Our entrees were the highlight of the entire evening. Being an avid seafood lover, Rama ordered the Cassolette Fruits de Mer. The concoction was mélange of shrimp, scallops, mussels, crab meat, crunchy veggies and mushrooms, in a saffron cream sauce, with slightly gratinee, or grated, Parmesan cheese on top, served with a side of mashed potatoes, carrots and asparagus. As the name suggests, the dish was served in a casserole dish, which came as a surprise when it arrived. The entree was savory, but slightly runny, so a spoon might be a better utensil to use than a fork. All in all, Rama loved it, and I thought it was tasty too. I had one of the evening s specials, which was tenderloin of beef, served with mashed potatoes, carrots and asparagus. The tenderloin was drizzled in a red wine sauce and topped with a square, pastrylike creation that was stuffed with Gorgonzola cheese and mushrooms. When the server described the dish, I was somewhat nervous, as I don t care for mushrooms, but still wanted to sample the dish without modifications. I was so pleased that I did, because the pastry was excellent. Warm and crispy, it was possibly the best thing on my plate, besides the perfectly prepared steak. To complete our fine dining experience, we tasted two different desserts. Rama had the more exotic one, the tarte aux fruits maison. It was a medley of fruits and berries in a crispy shell. He discarded the shell, even though it was edible, but loved the combination of strawberries, raspberries and blueberries. I had the chocolate fondant, because the menu s description made my mouth water. It was a delectable, lightly cooked, warm dark chocolate cake served with vanilla ice cream. Although the menu warns that the dish requires additional preparation time, I was eager to sample it. It was good, but didn t quite quench my sweet tooth. Next time, I d opt for the tarte tatin, a homemade crispy warm apple tarte tatin served with vanilla ice cream and topped with a balsamic vinegar reduction. It sounds devine! Each course was perfectly spaced out, allowing ample time for completion. I truly hate it when your next menu selection arrives before finishing the last. That careful attention to detail established a rhythm and made the occasion a splendid experience. Bistro Soleil is located at 100 Palm Street, on Marco Island. Their number is M MARCO 19

5 Culinary Journey The Meurgues return to Marco Island Denis and Lisa Meurgue are career-long restaurateurs. They formerly ran Island Cafe on Marco, spent some time at a new venture in Fort Myers, then returned to their roots by taking over the restaurant in Olde Marco Inn. By Brenda Hawkins After a nearly three-year hiatus, Chef Denis Meurgue and his wife, Lisa, couldn t be happier. They re back on Marco Island in the restaurant business, and their customers are pleased, too. Denis goal is to put out consistently good food and have people enjoy themselves every night, says Lisa. We want them to feel their dining experience is an extension of dining in our home. It seems to be working. Since they took over the restaurant at the Olde Marco Inn and renamed it Bistro Soleil, in December, customers from their previous establishment have had no problems finding them at their new location. People knew us from our previous restaurant here and they enjoyed themselves, so they re coming back now, says Lisa. Denis attended culinary school in France and has been a chef for MARCO years. He met Lisa at Club Med on the Gulf back in 1989, when he was head chef and she ran the bank. From there, it was wedded bliss, as the couple globe-trotted the world, working at some of its best-known eateries. They moved to Chicago, where he became chef at the Little Dix Bay Hotel; later, he took a job as executive chef at the Virgin Gorda Hotel, in the British Virgin Islands, only to be promptly promoted to run the kitchens at Caneel Bay Resort, a larger property on St. John s Island. Both were Rock (as in Rockefeller) Properties at the time, which meant that top-quality service and food was the norm. It came as quite a surprise, when a co-worker successfully used his Irish charm to persuade the Meurgues to cross the big pond to Thomastown, in County Kilkenny, Ireland. Denis became chef at the famous Mount Juliet, but after awhile, Lisa wanted to be back in the states. So, they moved to Texas, where Denis took the top spot at the Omni Hotel in Houston. But Lisa wanted to be closer to her parents who live on Marco Island, so it wasn t long before Denis became executive chef at the Biltmore Hotel, in Coral Gables. Still not close enough for Lisa, the pair came home to Marco about five years ago. All that moving has likely contributed an international flavor to his fare, but Lisa insists it s her hubby s artistry and flair that make the gourmet French cuisine so popular with guests. People might not be dining out five nights a week like they used to, due to the economy, but they re still dining out and we just hope we re one of their top choices, she says. He s French and the food is French, so the fit was good. M