Comox Valley : a Closer relationship with the sea

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1 Food 與海結緣 商業漁船以Comox Valley為基地 捕 得魚穫立即付運 Commercial fishing boats use Comox as their base, and export the seafood as soon as it is caught. Comox Valley : a Closer relationship with the sea 每當有親友來訪卑詩省 好杯中物的 我會帶他到酒谷Okanagan Valley 嗜吃的 我會帶他到卑詩省海鮮之鄉Comox Valley去 省內所產海鮮多數 來自Comox Valley水域 可以找到過百種的海產 Whenever relatives visit me in British Columbia, we invariably wind up in one of two spectacular valleys. If they are wine connoisseurs, I take them to the Okanagan Valley. If it s food they crave, then it s off to the Comox Valley, where the best seafood in the province can be found. text Iris Yim photo Johnny Liu 96

2 前往Comox Valley transportation to Comox Valley 溫哥華前往Comox Valley非常方便 坐渡輪至 Nanaimo後 沿19或19A公路北上 車程只需一小 時 溫市中心亦有水上飛機Harbour Air廿分鐘直抵 Comox It is very easy to reach Comox Valley from Vancouver. You can take the car ferry to Nanaimo Comox Valley位處溫哥華島東岸中部 丘陵起伏的低陸平原 與 高聳崢嶸的溫哥華島Vancouver Island Range一左一右 如兩個守護 神般 把太平洋的巨浪 以及從洛磯山脈吹來的迅猛季風一一擋住 and then drive north on Highway 19 or 19A for about an hour. Or, you can board a Harbour Air seaplane in downtown Vancouver for the 20-minute flight to Comox. 這兒日照特長 水不揚波 造就了有利的海產生長環境 也成為 進行水上活動的樂園 海濱的Marina Park有四個可容五百艘遊艇停 泊的地方 海濱南面的Goose Spit Regional Park是砂洲所在 十九 世紀中期曾是英國皇家海軍戰艦的避風港 如今則是玩滑浪風帆 暢 泳 划船和堆沙的好地方 Comox以至Campbell River一帶是三文魚 活躍的海域 商業捕魚船亦以Comox海濱碼頭為基地 捕撈到三文魚 和斑點蝦等漁穫後馬上出口 最大的買家來自美國和亞洲 遊人在Comox除了樂水還可以樂山 驅車四十五鐘即可直 抵雪場 早上出海暢泳 下午則可在Forbidden Plateau或Mount Washington雪上馳騁 食在Comox Valley eating in Comox Valley the BlaCk Fin pub 面朝海邊的露天座位 可眺望Beaufort Mountain及Comox的漁人碼頭 提供西岸美食及各 式海鮮 The outdoor seating affords views of Beaufort Comox Valley is centrally located on the east coast of Vancouver Island. The low plains and rolling hills stand in sharp contrast to the island s range of tall and stern mountains, which shield the area from Mountain and the fisherman s pier at Comox. The restaurant features West Coast cuisine and all sorts of seafood. blackfinpub.com the high winds and tall waves of the Pacific, as well as the fierce seasonal storms from the south. Here the daylight hours are extraordinarily long. Further, the seas are very calm. These features create an environment that is especially suited to the growth of seafood, and also suited to the building of water parks. Marina Park, which is on the seashore, has four areas that accommodate 500 yachts. On the south is Goose Spit Regional Park and its wonderful sandbars. This was a British Royal Navy shelter in the mid-19th century. Today it is a favourite venue for windsurfing, swimming, rowing and sandcastle building. The stretch between Comox and Campbell River is a plentiful source of seafood, particularly salmon and prawns. Thus, commercial fishing boats tend to use the pier at Comox as their base. As soon as the seafood is caught, much of it is immediately shipped to the United States and Asia. 以煙肉包著帶子煎至金黃色(The Black Fin Pub菜式) Bacon-wrapped scallops pan-fried until golden (a dish from The Black Fin Pub). the white whale restaurant 擅長炮製本地食材和海鮮等 以16款手工啤酒 及歡樂時光的buck-a-shuck oysters叫好叫座 主 菜如哈里拔魚 甜蝦 甜品如海膽雪糕等都極有水 準 This restaurant s strength is its use of local ingredients, including plentiful seafood. It features 16 In addition to enjoying the water, tourists can also enjoy the craft beers and buck-a-shuck oysters during happy mountains. A mere 45-minute drive from Comox takes you to the ski hour. Main courses include halibut and sweet shrimp, slopes. So, you can bask in the ocean in the morning, then ski on as well as desserts such as sea urchin ice cream. Forbidden Plateau or Mount Washington in the afternoon. whitewhalecourtenay.ca 97

3 Food Comox Valley由Cumberland Comox 及Courtenay三個毗鄰鼎足的市鎮組成 Comox Valley: comprising the towns of Cumberland, Comox and Courtenay. 01 Cumberland原是煤礦產區 後來礦業沒落 一度成為鬼城 Comox和Courtenay分別位於 Cumberland was originally a mining area, but after the decline of the Tsolum River及Puntledge River河口 和陽光海 mining industry, it became a ghost town. Comox and Courtney are located at 岸(Sunshine Coast)的Powell River遙遙相望 the mouths of the Tsolum and Puntledge rivers, respectively, and face Powell 又得Denman Island與Hornby Island庇蔭 寧靜 River on the mainland s Sunshine Coast. 的內海加上河口沖積物豐富 非常適合海洋生 物棲息 區內約有四百個海產養殖場 海產養 殖及商業漁穫佔卑詩省海鮮總產量一半 The area is surrounded by Denman Island and Horny Island, creating a quiet inner harbour, which is also rich with alluvium at the bayou. Thus, it is a perfect place for the growth of marine life. There are about 400 seafood farms 溫哥華島由Nanaimo以北全是盛產海產的 區域 包括Qualicum出產的帶子 Deep Bay in the area. The farmed and caught seafood in this area together account for up to half of the seafood production of British Columbia. Mud Bay Fanny Bay Union Bay等小海灣的 生蠔和Comox Valley近岸海域的水產 包括青 The area north of Nanaimo is a bountiful source of seafood. The products 口 大蜆 海膽 海參 斑點蝦 肉蟹和象拔 include scallops from Qualicum, oysters from Deep Bay, Mud Bay, Fanny Bay 蚌等 以及見於海洋範圍的三文魚和大比目魚 and Union Bay, and mussels, clams, sea urchins, sea cucumber and spot 等 應有盡有 prawns, mud crabs and geoduck clams from the coastal waters of Comox 02 Valley. As well, salmon and halibut are plentiful. The variety is endless. 遊Comox Valley最好的季節是六月及英 文名稱裡有 r 字的月份 因為每年六月是卑 The best time to tour Comox Valley is in June, when the BC Shellfish & 詩海產月(BC Seafood Month) 會舉行加西 Seafood Festival is held, and all the months that have an r in their names, 最大型的海產節BC Shellfish and Seafood which is when oysters are the fattest and most ready for harvest. Festival 而有 r 字的月份 正是生蠔最肥美 的收成期 The Kusshi oyster found in the area is different from other types of oysters. It is farmed using the floating tray method. The tray moves whenever the river Comox Valley所產的Kusshi oyster有別於 flows through, so the oysters are always being flipped around. This retards 其他生蠔品種 以浮架(floating tray)養殖 架子 their growth on the outside, while allowing them to mature on the inside. Thus, 除海流翻動 讓蠔隻周邊的生長停頓 只能向 the Kusshi looks small, but is very thick and meaty. The meat is quite sweet, 中心發展 因此Kusshi雖然看來個子小小 但 which makes it a favourite among oyster lovers. 其實非常厚身多肉 而且味道甘甜 成為嗜蠔 客的寵兒 The B.C. geoduck clam is distributed domestically and also exported to Hong Kong and China. Each year, sales total more than $40 million. Fishermen 卑詩象拔蚌出口香港和中國 加上本土 內銷 每年為國家賺取四千五百萬元收入 漁 require a special licence to harvest these clams because they are a limited resource. 人要取得特別的許可證才可以在海中作業 由 於資源有限 為要使象拔蚌繼續成為可持續海 Comox Valley s Manatee Seafood Farm has successfully imitated the natural 成功模倣大自然的環境 將象拔蚌和海參一起 environment to raise geoduck clams and sea cucumbers. The sea cucumbers 養殖 食腐為主的海參 可以清理象拔蚌排泄 feed mainly on decayed plants and can therefore clean up the waste excreted 物 從而讓海床生態更健康 by the geoduck clams, thus making the seabeds healthier. 01養殖一年至數年不等的象拔蚌 Geoduck clams that have been farmed from one year to a few years. 02卑詩紅海參很受華裔喜愛 也是省內重要水產之一 B.C. s red sea cucumber has been a favourite among Chinese Canadians, and is an important segment of the province s seafood industry. 03Kusshi oyster甘甜厚身 是蠔中珍品 Kusshi oysters are sweet and thick, a favourite of oyster lovers. 98 In order to ensure that these clams continue to be a sustainable organism, 產 Comox Valley的Manatee海產養殖場已 03

4 住在Comox Valley staying in Comox Valley kingfisher oceanside resort & spa 酒店擁有海濱景觀房間 以及區內最好 的兩家海鮮餐廳AQUA Bistro & Wine Bar和 Ocean7 Restaurant 度假村的水療服務以 仿如地下砂岩洞穴的Pacific Mist Hydropath 最著名 沿著八個不同的水療區 享受按摩 池 瀑布 河流等水療設施 AQUA Bistro & Wine Bar是紐約風味酒 吧 提供豐富的雞尾酒和各式酒品選擇 在 海景餐廳Ocean7 Restaurant 顧客可欣賞 Sunshine Coast和Tree Island等景色 行 政總廚Nyle Petherbridge是實力雄厚的Red Seal Chef 烹調海鮮最拿手 Kingfisher Oceanside Resort & Spa features AQUA Bistro & Wine Bar is a New York-style bar rooms with full ocean views and two of the best offering all kinds of cocktails and wines. At Ocean7 seafood restaurants in the area AQUA Bistro & Restaurant, one can enjoy views of the Sunshine Wine Bar and Ocean7 Restaurant. The spa service Coast and Tree Island, as well as the culinary is famous for its Pacific Mist Hydropath, which is offerings of Red Seal Chef Nyle Petherbridge. an imitation of the underground sandstone caves. kingfisherspa.com old house hotel & spa 這間共有79個套房和penthouse的酒店 位於 Courtenay River河畔 設計散發太平洋西岸氛圍 酒 店餐廳Locals Restaurant是區內最好的餐廳 並附有 Oh Spa水療服務 由老宅改建的Locals Restaurant內外設計均古 色古香 主廚Ronald St. Pierre烹調手法雅緻細膩 Locals是卑詩唯一取得Leaders in Environmentally Aware Food Service Level 3 Certification的餐廳 推 出的Chef Guided Farmers Market Tour 讓食客跟著 大廚去買菜 回到餐廳把食物煮成午餐進食 This hotel, located on the shore of the Courtenay River, has a total of 79 suites and a penthouse, and is home to Locals Restaurant, one of the best in the area. Spa services are also offered at Oh Spa. Locals Restaurant has old-mansion interior and exterior designs, full of old-world charm. Head chef Locals Restaurant內部裝璜古色古香 Locals Restaurant s interior is full of old-world charm. 上雪山下碧海 在Comox Valley樂山也樂水 Head to the mountains, then descend to the blue sea, enjoying both skiing and water sports in Comox Valley. Ronald St. Pierre has a delicate and detailed cooking style. Locals is the only restaurant in British Columbia awarded a Leaders in Environmentally Aware Food Service Level 3 Certification. Its Chef-Guided Farmers Market Tour offers guests the opportunity to go shopping for ingredients with the head chef and then have the food cooked for lunch at the restaurant. oldhousevillage.com 99

5 Food 要盡情品嘗上文提及的海上鮮 只需要參加海產嘉年華 10 days and has been held for the past 11 years. The headline 海產節為期十天 共有四十個活動 重頭節目是BC Seafood programs are BC Seafood Expo, Shellfish Dinner by the Sea and Expo Shellfish Dinner by the Sea及Comox by the Sea 活 Comox by the Sea. The festival includes culinary skill exchanges and 動更有溫哥華與卡加利的名廚出席 進行廚藝交流和烹飪示範 cooking demonstrations by renowned chefs from Vancouver. Along 配合當地美酒和海鮮佳餚 名副其實散發from sea to table的魅 with local fine wine, this sea-to-table festival is extremely popular. 力 bcshellfishfestival.com bcshellfishfestival.com Shellfish Dinner by the Sea於Filberg Heritage Lodge and Shellfish Dinner by the Sea is held at Filberg Heritage Lodge and Park舉行 公園佔地約九英畝 原本由魁省林木業大亨R. J. Park. The park was originally owned by lumber tycoon R.J. Filberg. Filberg擁有 他離世後 後人捐出宅邸供市民參觀 公園的設計 Upon his death, his descendants donated the estate for the public to 與Filberg Heritage Lodge內裡建築細節都一絲不苟 值得仔細欣 tour. The park s design and the architectural details in Filberg Heritage 賞 Lodge are all meticulous and worth viewing carefully. 要是錯過了六月的BC Shellfish and Seafood Festival 亦可 If you happen to miss out on the festival, fear not. You can dine 光顧Comox Valley多家著名海鮮餐廳 如Locals Restaurant on these seafood morsels at any one of several fine restaurants in The Black Fin Pub White Whale Restaurant AQUA Bistro the valley, including Locals Restaurant, The Black Fin Pub, White Ocean7 Restaurant Avenue Restaurant等 同是犒賞味蕾的好 Whale Restaurant, AQUA Bistro, Ocean7 Restaurant and Avenue 去處 Restaurant. Comox Valley的K omoks原住民早就在這裡安家立寨捕魚 Comox Valley s K omoks indigenous people have been catching 捉蟹 Pioneer Memorial Park的圖騰和I-Hos Gallery的The Big fish and crab for decades. The totem pole in Pioneer Memorial Park, House都是他們在這裡的文化印記 as well as The Comox Big House I-Hos Gallery, are cultural footprints. 區內每年日照時間平均為1,915小時 有利農作物收成和 The area receives an average of 1,900 hours of sun per year, 葡萄生長 因此Comox擁有溫哥華島最大最有規模的farmers which is wonderful for harvest from the farms and vineyards. Comox market 而且酒莊處處 酒莊如40 Knots Vineyard & Estate has the largest, most established farmers market on Vancouver Winery WayWard Distillation House佳釀都是劉伶客心目中的的 Island, and also features a number of wineries, including 40 Knots 杯中 蜜 Vineyard & Estate Winery and WayWard Distillation House. Filberg Heritage Lodge 100 The BC Shellfish & Seafood Festival features 40 activities over BC Shellfish and Seafood Festival 這個已有十一年歷史的

6 玩在Comox Valley Comox街上不時 可見以船隻為裝 飾主題的建築 On the streets of Comox, images of ships decorate many buildings. playing in Comox Valley BC salmon Farm : 養魚場體驗 experiencing a Fish Farm First-hand BC Salmon Farm Tour坐船出海到三文魚養殖場 參觀設施運作及 生態環境 實地觀看以高科技及可持續發展的科學方法來養殖三文魚 Comox Valley既能讓你投入大自然的懷抱 洗 滌心塵 也有著城市的品味和魅力 Courtenay市的 費用包括船費及午餐 需向BC Salmon Farm Association預約 BC Salmon Farm Tour provides an insight into the high-tech and Fourth Street Fifth Street Sixth Street都是帶點老 scientific sustainable method of salmon farming. Price of the tour includes 城風味的購物區 Fifth Street上是充滿自家個性的小 the boat trip and lunch. Advance appointments need to be made with BC 店或精品店 街上賞心悅目的壁畫比比皆是 Salmon Farm Association. bcsalmonfarmers.ca Courtenay老區內除了幾條購物街是遊人必到 的地方 不少舊建築物也成為遊覽景點 例如建於 1928年的Native Son s Hall就非常有格調 集博物 館 郵局及海關機構於一身的紅磚屋亦吸引遊人注 目 Comox城區可見到不少以船隻來為市容作立體 裝飾 在在見證Comox Valley與海洋結下的深厚緣 份 Not only does Comox Valley allow you to embrace nature and cleanse your soul, it also has the charm 40 knots : 當地最大葡萄酒莊 the largest winery in the area 40 Knots Vineyard & Estate Winery是Comox Valley最大的葡萄酒 莊 產品包括Pinot Noir Pinot Gris Whitecaps Chardonnay和Rose 等 產量及品種雖然不多 但其廿四畝葡萄園是當地最大的葡萄園 面 積在溫哥華島中亦排名第四 40 Knots Vineyard & Estate and attractions of urban life. Courtenay s Fourth Street, Winery is the largest winery in Fifth Street and Sixth Street are all old-town shopping Comox Valley. Its products include districts. Fifth Street is full of family-style small shops Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Whitecaps, and boutiques, and the streets are full of beautiful Chardonnay and Rosé. Even murals. though its production is small and varieties are limited, its 9.7-hectare There are also a number of scenic old buildings, vineyard is the largest in the area including Native Son s Hall, built in There is also and fourth-largest on Vancouver a red brick house that is a museum, post office and Island. 40knotswinery.com 40 Knots Vineyard招牌出品 40 Knots Vineyard s signature wines customs office all-in-one. In the city of Comox, one can see many 3-D decorations that have ships as their themes, symbolizing the close relationship between Comox Valley and the ocean. wayward : 加國首家以蜂蜜蒸餾酒廠 Canada s First honey wine 加國首家以蜂蜜為酒品主要材料的釀酒廠 Wayward Distillation House採用野生三葉草田蜂蜜 冰川水和天然酵母等材料混合 經蒸 餾而釀成的烈酒 招牌出品有Unruly Gin Unruly Vodka Bourbon Barrelled Gin等 WayWard濃醇的honey liqueur WayWard s rich honey liqueur. As the first distillery in Canada to use honey as the main ingredient, Wayward Distillation House combines ingredients such as wild clover honey, glacier water and natural yeast, and then distills the mixture into a strong wine. Its signature products also include Unruly Gin, Unruly Vodka and Bourbon Barrelled Gin. waywarddistillationhouse.com 101