Finest and rarest. wines from France JACK - PHILIPPE RUELLAN AUCTION HOUSE

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1 THE MANDARIN ORIENTAL, HONG KONG Finest and rarest wines from France JACK - PHILIPPE RUELLAN AUCTION HOUSE AUCTION AT THE MANDARIN ORIENTAL HOTEL. HONG KONG Opening : Friday 29 April 2011 from am pm Auction : Saturday 30 April 2011 at am

2 Finest and RaRest Wines FRom FRance AUCTION AT HONG KONG S MANDARIN ORIENTAL HOTEL SATURDAY 30 APRIL at 10:00 AM Auctioneer : Jack-Philippe RUELLAN Specialist : Bérengère de PONTAC - berengeredepontac@wanadoo.fr To be held at : MANDARIN ORIENTAL HOTEL, Connaught Room, 5 Connaught Road Central, HONG KONG Tel : Fax : Opening of the sale on Friday 29 April from 2:00 PM, Hotel Mandarin - Connaught Room Online Catalogue : in English, Chinese : Press Contacts : Europe : Isabelle NARDARI - inardari@yahoo.fr Hong Kong : Laura SCHOUMAN - lauraschouman@hotmail.com Jack - Philippe RUELLAN Auction House Tel : +33(0) Fax : +33(0) ruellan.cpriseur@wanadoo.fr Website : PARIS : 10 rue Notre-Dame de Lorette PARIS FRANCE VANNES - BRITTANY : 8 rue du Dr J.AUDIC VANNES FRANCE 2

3 法國最珍貴和罕有的佳釀在香港文華東方酒店拍賣 4 月 30 日 ( 星期六 ) 早上 10:00 拍賣官 : Jack-Philippe RUELLAN 專家 : Bérengère de PONTAC - berengeredepontac@wanadoo.fr 舉行地點 : 香港中環干諾道中 5 號香港文華東方酒店康樂廳 電話 : 傳真 : 拍賣會於 4 月 29 日 ( 星期五 ) 下午 2:00 起於文華東方酒店康樂廳開幕 網上名錄 : 英文及中文 : 傳媒聯絡 : 歐洲 : Isabelle NARDARI - inardari@yahoo.fr 香港 : Laura SCHOUMAN - lauraschouman@hotmail.com Jack - Philippe RUELLAN 拍賣行電話 : +33(0) 傳真 : +33(0) 電郵 : ruellan.cpriseur@wanadoo.fr 網頁 : PARIS : 10 rue Notre-Dame de Lorette PARIS FRANCE VANNES - BRITTANY : 8 rue du Dr J.AUDIC VANNES FRANCE 3

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5 «Wine cannot be better than when you drink it with a friend; the same applies to books, those you read with a friend are twice as pleasant and luminous» 酒逢知己千杯少, 讀書亦然 與朋友讀書, 倍覺快意明晰 Chinese saying. 中國俗語 «Who knows how to taste wine never drinks wine again, but tastes secrets instead» 學會品味紅酒的人, 不再是飲紅酒, 而是品味奧妙 Salvador Dali 5

6 JACK - PHILIPPE RUELLAN AUCTION HOUSE. AUCTION AT HONG KONG S MANDARIN ORIENTAL HOTEL JACK - PHILIPPE RUELLAN 拍賣行在香港文華東方酒店拍賣 6

7 Jack-Philippe Ruellan auction house is the first French firm to introduce to the Chinese market rare wines entrusted by old French families with whom this firm has developed strong ties for several years. These exceptional bottles come from the private cellars of elegant properties testifying to an art of living in France. We offer you, on an exclusive basis, to discover them in the catalogue. We have filmed some special moments in order to share these vaulted spaces, steeped in history and full of charm. We thank the owners and collectors for these precious bottles. Beyond their pleasure to share these great wines that tradition has always preserved, they have opened for us the doors of history and their family memory. Intended for collectors or epicures, great growths and prestigious vintages are the expression of taste refinement. We wish to establish a cultural bridge and convey our savoir-faire to Hong Kong in order to anchor our legitimacy in terms of excellence and prestige of our French cellars. Jack-Philippe Ruellan 拍賣行是第一所向中國市場介紹稀有珍釀的法國公司 拍賣由傳統法國家族委託, 雙方的關係近年來亦愈見牢固 這些佳釀來自法國的私人酒窖, 其高雅的特質印證了當地的生活藝術 名冊之中, 你將有機會獨家一窺究竟 我們也拍下了一些特別鏡頭, 呈現地窖中的豐富歷史氣息和無限魅力 我們感謝佳釀的主人和收藏者慷慨分享這些堅守傳統的美酒, 令我們得以進入歷史和他們家族的記憶之中 這些陳年佳釀和珍貴美酒是精煉的味覺享受, 專為收藏家和講究飲食者而出現 我們希望自己的萃華能傳播到這個城市, 並在法國和香港之間建立一道文化橋樑, 讓法國酒窖的優勝與名望更為人所認同 7

8 Jack Philippe RUELLAN Chairman Auctioneer since 1991 and chairman of the eponymous auction house, Jack-Philippe Ruellan has succeeded into realizing his aesthetic ambitions in different specialties, gaining the confidence of the great families of collectors. That is how the Antiques of the prestigious Bellon collection were scattered in April The Louvre Museum could acquire twelve objects, rare testimonials of a private museum. Art objects, paintings and of course the great wines of the French vineyards are most appreciated themes by French or foreign collectors and clients of Jack-Philippe Ruellan auction house. 由 1991 年起,Jack-Philippe Ruellan 在以自己名字命名的拍賣行擔任主席和拍賣官, 實現了自己對不同名產的鑒賞欲望, 也贏得了收藏家的信心 例如, 在 2009 年 4 月就舉行了 Bellon 先生珍藏古董拍賣會, 羅浮宮博物館也從這次拍賣中購入 12 件物品 藝術品 畫作和法國葡萄園的紅酒都是法國內外收藏家和 Jack-Philippe Ruellan 拍賣行的客戶所欣賞的主題 拍賣行最初由 Arthur Choko(Wine Prices 自 1988 年開始的專家和作家 ) 協助打理, 他曾跟 Bérengère de Pontac 合作逾十年, 後者後來接替 Choko 先生擔任紅酒部專家 在 Jack-Philippe Ruellan 的木槌之下, 已售出不少法國傳統家族的佳釀 2002 年, 巴黎著名餐廳 Maxim s 的酒窖珍藏, 就是委託 Jack-Philippe Ruellan 拍賣 First assisted by Arthur Choko, expert and author of Wine Prices since 1988, he has been collaborating for more than ten years with Bérengère de Pontac who has succeeded Mister Choko as expert in the wines department. A lot of wine cellars from old French families have been scattered under Jack-Philippe Ruellan s hammer. In 2002, a sale of the cellar of the prestigious restaurant Maxim s of Paris was organized by this auction house. Sales of great growths and rare vintages are today a gold standard for this auction firm. The rare assemblages and old bottles presented in this catalogue illustrate the elegance, the culture and the savoir-faire of our great French châteaux. 今時今日, 出售佳釀和罕見紅酒已經是這間拍賣行的重要業務 在這本名冊之中, 匯集了舊酒與珍藏, 盡顯我們偉大法國酒莊的典雅 文化與才華 8

9 Bérengère de PONTAC Expert Since 2000, freelance expert in wines, working with auctioneers in auction sales During a three-year collaboration with Arthur CHOKO, expert in wines and author of Wine Prices, Bérengère de Pontac has refined her expertise. She has also enriched her background at the University of Bordeaux-Talence and at the BIVB of Beaune in Burgundy. 自 2000 年起是獨立的酒類專家, 與拍賣商在拍賣期間合作 Bérengère de Pontac 在與 Arthur CHOKO( 酒類專家和 Wine Prices 作者 ) 合作的三年間, 專業知識更上一層樓 她亦曾在 Bordeaux-Talence 大學和勃艮第的 BIVB of Beaune 進修 她的先族顯赫, 是著名酒莊 Haut-Brion 創始人 (1525 年 ) 和主人 Jean de PONTAC( ) 的後裔, 酒莊在 1855 年成為 Graves 產區第一個特級酒莊 (Grand Cru Classé) 她的家族一直沒有離開酒類的圈子 1666 年,Jean 的孫子 François-Auguste de PONTAC 在倫敦開設第一間酒館餐廳 Pontac s Head, 佳肴在此配上了家族醇醪 18 世紀時,Pontac 家族出售了部份莊園予 Sauvage 家族 (Lur-Saluces 家族的祖先 ), 也賣出了 Yquem 莊園的擁有權 她的家族仍然擁有三個酒莊 ( 包括 Myrat 酒莊和特級酒莊 Sauternes), 並在其釀造美酒的傳統和專業知識的基礎上, 繼續在波爾多的葡萄園間生產紅酒白酒 She is a descendant of Jean de PONTAC ( ), owner and founder of renowned Château Haut-Brion (1525), first Grand Cru Classé of Graves in Her family has always been involved in the world of wine. In 1666, François-Auguste de PONTAC, Jean s grandson, opened in London the first tavern restaurant: the Pontac s Head. Sophisticated cuisine was accompanied by the family estate s fine wines. In the XVIIIth century, the PONTACS ceded a part of their estate to the SAUVAGE family (ancestors of the LUR-SALUCES), and rights of ownership of the Yquem estate. Building on this wine-producing tradition and on its expertise in the excellence of wines, her family still owns three châteaux, producing red wines and white wines in the Bordeaux vineyard, among which Château Myrat, Grand Cru Classé of Sauternes. Her passion for, her attachment to and her knowledge of French wines have naturally led Bérengère to introduce today worldwide connoisseurs to the richness of the French wine tradition, and also to make them appreciate all its refinement and complexity. 憑她對法國酒的熱誠 投入和知識, 要向世界各地鑒賞家介紹法國紅酒的文化 精細和複雜時, 可謂不作他人想 9

10 M Dégustation Vin de 品味 Myrat 佳釀 yrat Myrat, the delightful appeal of one of the most exquisite properties in the area Set in grounds featuring centuries-old trees, this 18th-century chateau, with its very pure style, conjures up the nostalgia of a forgotten past. The estate belongs to the Pontac family, one of whose forebears was an important figure in Bordeaux wineproducing history, in the 17th century, Arnaud de Pontac introduced the notion of Cru or Groth with his terroir at Haut-Brion and, from that time on, successfully spread the concept throughout Europe. In 1666, François-Auguste de Pontac opened a tavern in London called the Enseigne de Pontac wich became...the most fashionable place in London... in its time. Since 1988, Château de Myrat has experienced a veritable renaissance. After having slumbered for a number of years, this 22 hectare single holding vineyard set in the magnificent stone-rich terroir of the Haut-Barsac has been entirely replanted. Jacques and Xavier de Pontac set their sights on their Semillon vines principally, but also their Sauvignon and Muscadelle, being replanted in their original parcels. In combining modernism and tradition, they make a true Barsac delicate, elegant and full of natural distinction. 區內秀麗莊園的動人景緻 Myrat 莊園建於 18 世紀, 風格純樸, 周圍是幾百年的老樹, 令人不期然追憶逝去年華 莊園屬於 Pontac 家族, 他們的祖先是波爾多釀酒史上重要一員 在 17 世紀時,Arnaud de Pontac 為其 Haut-Brion 的風土引進了 Cru 這個概念, 並使它在以後廣為歐洲所採用 1666 年,François-Auguste de Pontac 在倫敦開設了名 為 Enseigne de Pontac 的客棧, 在當然被譽為 全倫敦最時髦的地方 而自 1988 年開始,Château de Myrat 在沉睡多年後開始真正復蘇, 面積達 22 公頃的葡萄園全面重植 這片位於 Haut-Barsac 而風土出眾 的莊園, 終於再次揚名天下 Jacques 與 Xavier de Pontac 主要專注於 Semillon 葡萄, 但對原地重植的 Sauvignon 和 Muscadelle 也同樣重視 通過結合現代與傳統, 他們創作出真正的 Barsac 可人典雅, 而且 充滿天然風貌 10

11 Village : Barsac Vineyard area : 22 hectares (54 acres) Specific soil type : Limonestone-clay on fissured limonestone bedrock. Natural drainage. Grape Varieties : 88% Sémillon,8% Sauvignon,4% Muscadelle. Vinification: Slow pressing. Barrel fermentation. Separation of each day s harvest or batch. Maturing : In barrels ( 1/3 replaced annually). Topped up weekly. Racked quarterly. Traditional fining. Classed Growth average annual production : bottles Food recommendations : Spicy appetizers, curried chicken, cheese (Stilton), delicate apple or pear tart. For tasting : As an aperitif and, particularly, to round off a meal. Temperature C/50-54 F. Special Feature : 18th-century château. Collection of old presses. Visits: Daily by prior arrangement. Groups up to 80 people. Owners : Pontac Family - Operator : Comte Jacques de Pontac On-site visits : Comte Xavier de Pontac 村莊.. Barsac 葡萄園面積.. 22 公頃 (54 畝 ) 土壤種類..散布於石灰岩床岩裂縫之間的石灰石黏土 天然排水 葡萄種類.. 88% Sémillon 8% Sauvignon 和 4% Muscadelle. 釀造方法..緩慢擠壓 木桶發酵 每天的收成都會分開處理 成熟期..在木桶之中 ( 每年更換 1/3), 每星期添加一次, 每季上架一次, 以傳統方法澄清 特級釀造 每年平均產量為 瓶食物配搭..香辣小吃 咖喱雞 芝士 (Stilton) 可口蘋果或啤梨餡餅品嚐方法..開胃酒, 特別是完美總結一頓佳餚 溫度..攝氏 度 / 華氏 度 特點.. 18 世紀莊園, 藏有一系列的古老壓榨機 參觀..每天開放, 事先預約, 人數最多為 80 人 主人.. Pontac 家族 經營者.. Comte Jacques de Pontac 實地參觀.. Comte Xavier de Pontac Jacques de PONTAC - Château de MYRAT Barsac - FRANCE Tél : +33 (0) Fax : +33 (0) Mobile : +33 (0) ou +33 (0) myrat@chateaudemyrat.fr Jacques de PONTAC - Château de MYRAT Barsac - FRANCE 電話 (0) 傳真 (0) 手提電話 (0) 或 +33 (0) myrat@chateaudemyrat.fr 11

12 Vineyard map of France 法國葡萄園地圖 12

13 Calvados Champagne Alsace Vallée de la Loire Bourgogne Provence Jura Cognac Beaujolais Savoie Bordeaux Sud Ouest Armagnac Languedoc Roussillon Vallée du Rhone Provence 13

14 History of french wine French wine originated in the 6th century BC, with the colonization of Southern Gaul by Greek settlers. Viticulture soon flourished with the founding of the Greek colony of Marseille. The Roman Empire licensed regions in the south to produce wines. St. Martin of Tours ( ) was actively engaged in both spreading Christianity and planting vineyards. During the Middle Ages, monks maintained vineyards and, more importantly, conserved wine-making knowledge and skills during that often turbulent period. Monasteries had the resources, security, and motivation to produce a steady supply of wine both for celebrating mass and generating income. During this time, the best vineyards were owned by the monasteries and their wine was considered to be superior. Over time the nobility developed extensive vineyards. However, the French Revolution led to the confiscation of many of the vineyards owned by the Church and others. The advance of the French wine industry stopped abruptly as first mildew and then phylloxera spread throughout the country, indeed across all of Europe, leaving vineyards desolate. Then came an economic downturn in Europe followed by two world wars, and the French wine industry did not fully recover for decades. Meanwhile competition had arrived and threatened the treasured French brands such as Champagne and Bordeaux. This resulted in the establishment in 1935 of the Appellation d Origine Contrôlée to protect French interests. Large investments, the economic upturn following World War 2 and a new generation of winemakers yielded results in the 1970s and the following decades, creating the modern French wines we know today. France has long been an important wine producing country. As trade grew, vineyards moved closer to port cities, such as Bordeaux. There are seven major wine regions in France. French wineries name their wines after the vineyard where the wine was grown, rather than the grape variety, although the final determination of a wine s character comes from many factors, including grape variety, soil quality, when it is harvested, how it is stored, and the skill of the winemaker. Touring the wine regions of France is a great holiday side trip or a fantastic focus for a vacation in France. The principal wine regions of France are Alsace, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, Languedoc-Roussillon, the Loire region, and the Rhône. Each offers a unique style of wine, for varying tastes. Bordeaux is home to fullbodied red wines, Languedoc produces about 40% of France s wines - including table wine - and Champagne is known for, well, producing Champagne. A fantastic way to see more of France, and experience the French wineries, is to take a wine tour. One of the premier wine regions in France is Bordeaux. 14

15 法國紅酒史 希臘人於公元前六世紀在高盧南方殖民之時, 尌是法國紅酒的貣源 希臘在馬賽殖民後, 葡萄種植方法迅速發展 ; 爾後的羅馬帝國則發出牌照, 讓南方區域製作紅酒 St. Martin of Tours ( ) 一邊弘揚福音, 一邊栽種葡萄 中世紀時, 修道士不傴管理葡萄園, 更在這段動蕩不孜的時間裏, 保存了釀酒的知識和技術 修道院擁有的是資源 孜全和動機, 為慶祝彌撒和掙取收入而穩定地提供紅酒 這時的修道院擁有最好的葡萄園, 他們的紅酒也被認為是最優質的 漸漸, 貴族也開始擁有大片葡萄園 ; 不過在法國大革命期間, 許多這些葡萄園都被充公 黴菌和其後的葡萄虱橫掃歐洲, 窒礙了法國紅酒業的發展, 令許多葡萄園荒廢 之後是經濟下滑, 然後是兩次世界大戰, 法國釀酒業有好幾十年未能回復元氣 此後還有其他地方的競爭, 令備受珍重的法國 品牌 如香檳和波爾多之類備受威脅 有見及此, 在 1935 年遂有 Appellation d Origine Contrôlée 出台以保護法國利益 在第二次世界大戰以後, 大規模投資 經濟好轉加上新一代釀酒師湧現, 令現代法國紅酒終於在 1970 年代及隨後幾十年重生, 成為我們今天所見的情景 法國一向是重要的紅酒生產國 由於貿易增多, 葡萄園愈發向像波爾多的港口城市遷移 法國共有七個主要紅酒生產區 法國酒莊命名紅酒的方法, 不是採用葡萄的品種, 而是紅酒的生產區份, 哪怕最終紅酒的特質取決於許多不同因素, 例如葡萄的種類 泥土的質素 收成時間 貯藏方法和釀酒師的技術等 參觀法國產酒區, 可以是不錯的假日休閒活動, 也可以到此作專題旅遊 法國的主要紅酒區包括 Alsace 波爾多 勃艮第 香檳 Languedoc-Roussillon the Loire region 和 therhône, 每個區份都有其風格獨特 口味不同的紅酒 例如, 波爾多出產較醇厚的紅酒,Languedoc 出產的紅酒佔全國 40%( 包括餐酒在內 ), 而香檳尌當然是以出產香檳而聞名了 要更深入認識法國和體驗法國釀酒業, 最佳方法莫過於參加酒莊之旅了 波爾多是法國其中一個主要酒區 17 15

16 The prestige of our french cellars in direct origin from elegant private properties 直接源於典雅法國私人莊園酒窖的瑰寶 16

17 ChATEAU de SERVIGNY Historical Chateau of the 17th century in Normandy. The Chateau witnessed the signing of the Treaty of Cherbourg between U.S. General Lawton Collins and German General Von Schlieben on June 26th 建於 18 世紀的諾曼第莊園, 深具歷史意義..美國將軍 Lawton Collins 與德國將軍 Von Schlieben 就是在這裏簽訂 Cherbourg 條約, 時維 1944 年 6 月 26 日 ChATEAU TURPAULT built in 1910 and owned by a fabric manufacturer Turpault, this emblematic english mannor reveled us some suprising lots 這座具代表性的英式莊園大宅建於 1910 年, 由紡織業廠商 Turpault 擁有, 內藏教人驚喜的佳品 MANOIR de GUERSALLIC Typical Manor house in granite of the 17th century, Centre Brittany 位處不列塔尼中心的 17 世紀典型花崗石莊園大宅 17

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19 Lafite Rothschild This wine takes its name from the family Lafite, estate s owner until the early eighteenth century. However, it was in 1680 that Jacques de Ségur planted a vineyard on the land. His son, Nicolas-Alexandre, is the fruit of the union of châteaux Lafite and Latour. By improving wineries techniques and releasing his wine in Versailles and abroad, he earned the nickname of Prince of vines. Thanks to Marshal Richelieu, governor of Guyenne, Château Lafite became the Wine of King Louis the XVth. Its reputation for excellence crossed borders and seduced, among others, Thomas Jefferson. The Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1855 recognized it as first cru. The early nineteenth century saw a succession of several owners, until that Baron James de Rothschild bought the vineyards on August 8, The same year, the barrel s price reached the exceptional price of 6,250 francs, a record which would last until mid-twentieth century. Thereafter, the phylloxera, the mildew, the two world wars and the economic crisis depressed the market sustainably and imposed the reduction of the planted areas. It was only after 1945, with Baron Elie de Rothschild, that the Château Lafite Rothschild regained its former nobility. He completely reorganized the property s administration and promoted worldwide the great wines of the Médoc. The 1955, 1959 and 1961 vintages appear to be the flagships of this renewal. Finally, his nephew, Baron Eric, overcame the crises, by constructing a new cellar and constantly searching the best winemakers, and imposed Château Lafite Rothschild as a reference of the Bordeaux best great wines. The château also produces a top quality second wine: Carruades de Lafite. Lafite 家族擁有這個莊園, 直至 18 世紀初, 這種紅酒也尌以此為名 可是, 在這片土地上種植葡萄的, 其實是一位名叫 Jacques de Ségur 的人, 時維 1680 年 他的兒子 Nicolas-Alexandre 是 Lafite 和 Latour 兩個莊園連合的產物, 被譽為 葡萄樹王子, 因為他改善了釀酒技術, 並將其紅酒往凡爾賽宮及海外銷售 由於 Guyenne 總督 Marshal Richelieu 相助,Château Lafite 更成為 法王路易十五世御用紅酒, 質素蜚聲孙內, 連美國總統傑佛遜也為之債心 在 1855 年巴黎世界博覽會上,Château Lafite 獲得 一級質量 (first cru) 的榮譽 18 世紀初, 莊園多次易手, 直至男爵 James de Rothschild 於 1868 年 8 月 8 日購入莊園 同年, 每桶紅酒售價升至 6,250 法郎, 這項紀錄直至 20 世紀中才被打破 此後, 葡萄虱 黴菌 兩次世界大戰和經濟危機令市場持續萎縮, 種植區域的面積也因而減少 直到 1945 年以後,Lafite Rothschild 酒莊在男爵 Elie de Rothschild 領導下, 才重拾昔日光輝 他徹底重組莊園的管理, 並將 Médoc 美酒推廣至全世界 和 1961 年的釀製年份更成為其中的經典 最後, 他的姪兒男爵 Eric 5 憑藉建設全新酒窖和不斷尋佳最佳釀酒師, 終於克服了 年間的危機, 令 Lafite Rothschild 終於成為波爾多佳釀的指標 此外, 這個酒莊也出產另一種優質副牌酒 Carruades de Lafite 7 19

20 The quality of Château Lafite Rothschild needs no introduction. As early as 1815, Abraham Lawton had already designated it as leader: I ranked it as being the most elegant and delicate, with the finest body of the three (leading wines) he qualified in As to Château Lafite s attributes found in all vintages, it was an enlightened amateur that summed it up best by saying...whatever the case, all the Château Lafite wines have an almond and violet aroma! Lafite Rothschild 酒莊的質量毋頇多費唇舌介紹了 早在 1815 年,Abraham Lawton 已經視之為出類拔萃之選, 並在 1855 年描述道.. 我認為它是最細緻優雅的, 而且在三種 ( 主要紅酒 ) 之中具有最細膩的酒體 至於 Lafite 酒莊佳釀的共通之處, 一位興高采烈的外行人倒說出了最好的概括.. 無論哪種 Lafite 酒莊的紅酒, 都充滿了杏仁和紫菫花的芳香! Grape varietie : Cabernet Sauvignon 80 to 95%, Merlot 5 to 20%, Cabernet franc and Petit Verdot 0 to 5%. Note that there are a few differing cases such as vintage 1994: 99% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Petit Verdot, vintage 1961: 100% of Cabernet Sauvignon. 葡萄種類 : 80 至 95%Cabernet Sauvignon 5 至 20% Merlot 0 至 5%Cabernet franc and Petit Verdot 注意部份年份比例或有不同, 例如 1994 年的比例為.. 99% Cabernet Sauvignon 和 1% Petit Verdot;1961 年則全為 Cabernet Sauvignon Length of ageing in oak barrels: 18 to 20 months in 100% new barrels. 橡木桶中陳化年期..在全新木桶中約 18 至 20 個月 Average annual production: 15,000 to 20,000 cases. 每年平均產量.. 15,000 至 20,000 箱 LAFITE ROTHSCHILD By Robert M. Parker, Jr The competition that now exists between the famous first growths of the Médoc is something to behold. They are all pushing the envelope of quality, but certainly none more than Charles Chevalier at Lafite Rothschild. Administrator Chevalier has accomplished brilliant work since he took charge of Lafite Rothschild s winemaking in This estate is now unquestionably the star among the Médoc s first growths, producing riveting wines in every vintage since Chevalier s ascension to power. The 1996 was the wine of the vintage, and the 1997 was unquestionably the finest first growth of the year. Furthermore, even though 1998 favored the Merlot-based wines of St Emilion, Pomerol, and to a lesser extent Graves, Lafite Rothschild again produced a strong candidate for wine of the vintage. The 1999 and 2000 are also fine successes. The 2003 is immortal and probably a modern-day clone of the A true first-growth château embodying elegance, nobility, and beautiful concentrated fruit, Lafite Rothschild is clearly living up to its immortal reputation. Only a tiny percentage of the harvest is included in the final blend, and there is little room for compromise. Since 1998, the winery has used a new engraved bottle designed to prevent fraudulent imitations. 20

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23 LAFITE ROTHSCHILD Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 Médoc 第一級之間的競爭, 實在不容錯過 他們都盡力提升品質, 但 Lafite Rothschild 的 Charles Chevalier 肯定是當中的最突出者 自從他在 1994 年接掌 Lafite Rothschild 的釀酒工作後, 一直表現奪目, 產品全都令人驚艷不已, 無疑使酒莊成為 Médoc 區第一級的領頭羊 酒莊 1996 年份是最佳紅酒,1997 年亦肯定是當年最優秀的第一級 甚至 1998 年雖然對以 Merlot 為主導的 St Emilion 和 Pomerol( 勉強可包括 Graves) 有利, 但 Lafite Rothschild 仍有力挑戰年度最佳 1999 和 2000 年也取得不少成功,2003 年更將永垂不朽, 大概是 1959 年的現代翻版 Lafite Rothschild 是真正的第一級酒莊, 展示出高雅 貴氣和集中的果味, 絕對無愧其聲望 只有極少部份的收成可以用於最後的混合之中, 因為妥協並不可能 從 1998 年貣, 酒廠改用了全新的刻瓶, 以防偽冒 1. 6 btls Cht Lafite Rothschild OWC 2007 US$ 5000/7800 HK$ 38700/ btls Cht Lafite Rothschild OWC 2004 US$ 1400/2100 HK$ 11000/16660 LAFITE 2004 : On the nose, the wine is closed and is beginning to open slowly. Note of preserved fruit. Rich at first, then becoming full and balanced, opulent and very elegant. A very long, smooth and silky finish. LAFITE 香氣漸漸滲出, 有蜜餞氣色 最初口感豐富, 爾後變得醇厚平衡 豐腴和非常典雅 餘韻平滑柔順而且悠長 3. 3 btls Cht Lafite Rothschild OWC 2002 US$ 2300/2800 HK$ 17700/22100 Opaque core, plumy purple; low-keyed, undeveloped; dry, medium body, good length, bitter tannin and touch iron on finish. A serious, quite impressive wine. Michael Broadbent 中心晦暗, 帶梅子的紫色 ; 低調, 未發展 ; 乾口, 酒身中等, 頗覺悠長, 單寧略苦, 餘韻帶鐵味 認真而令人印象深刻 (Michael Broadbent) LAFITE 2002 : It is a very dense, robust vintage with tight tannins and texture, good balance and great length LAFITE 厚重濃郁, 單寧和結構緊緻, 平衡感不錯, 餘韻悠長 4. 6 btls Cht Lafite Rothschild OWC 2001 US$ 4600/5200 HK$ 35400/41000 Very deep but not intense; distinct mocha nose; good flavour and length but tannic. Good enough food wine. Michael Broadbent 深沉但不激型, 有明顯的咖啡芳香 ; 風味與餘韻不俗, 是好的餐酒 (Michael Broadbent) LAFITE 2001 : It has intense aromas of black fruit on the nose. It is somewhat less opulent than its older 2000 brother, but nonetheless elegant and harmonious, with powerful and ripe tannins, a pure fruity aroma and a satisfying finish. LAFITE 2001: 有極強黑果的香氣, 2000 年份的兄長相比較豐裕, 但無損 2001 年的優雅與諧和 單寧強烈而成熟, 果香四溢, 餘韻令人滿足 5. 6 btls Cht Lafite Rothschild 100% Parker 2000 US$ 8200/9200 HK$ 64200/72000 Impressive depth and colour, velvety sheen, long legs ; very sweet, delicious, fragrant aroma; fairly sweet on the palate, very crisp, perfect weight attractive. Great future. Michael Broadbent 令人印象深刻的深度和顏色, 柔滑閃爍, 掛杯頗長 ; 非常甜口和可口, 香氣十足 ; 口感頗甜, 非常清脆, 重量完美 吸引, 前途無可限量 (Michael Broadbent) LAFITE 2000 : Very dark colour with hints of purple. The aromas are sumptuous and captivating, both powerful and extremely delicate on the palate, with remarkable tannic structure and length. LAFITE 非常深邃的顏色中隱然透露一絲紫色 香氣豪奢, 令人神魂顛倒, 口感力量與雅緻並存, 單寧結構和餘韻明顯 6. 6 btls Cht Lafite Rothschild OWC 1999 US$ 7100/8500 HK$ 55300/ btls Cht Lafite Rothschild OWC 1999 US$ 7100/8500 HK$ 55300/66400 Sweet, fleshy, youthful aroma; dry, undemonstrative with but good mouthfeel and silky tannins. An attractive future. Michael Broadbent 年輕並帶甜和肉感的香氣, 乾口, 含蓄但口感不俗, 單寧順滑 前景吸引 (Michael Broadbent) LAFITE 1999 : This vintage has a woody and spicy bouquet, with a structured palate. It is balanced and elegant, LAFITE 帶木本與香料芳香, 口感結構不俗, 平衡而典雅, 餘韻在漿果與紅醋栗的氣色中悠悠遠去 8. 1 lot of 2 blts including : - 1 btl Cht Lafite Rothschild 1992 US$ 1100/1300 HK$ 8300/ btl Cht Latour into neck 1992 Fully mature; lovely, fragrant, cedary nose; touch of sweetness, decent flavour and a light, refreshing bite. Michael Broadbent 完全成熟; 可人, 芳香, 雪松氣息 ; 略帶甜味, 味道可以, 輕鬆清爽的瞬間感覺 (Michael Broadbent) LAFITE 1991: the vintage is surprising in its quality and consistence. It has a fine colour and is very sincere, with a developed structure. The tannins are smooth, light but mature. It has a long finish. LAFITE 質量和一致性令人意外 顏色不錯, 甚具誠意, 結構亦見規模 單寧柔順 輕盈但成熟, 餘韻悠長 btls Cht Lafite Rothschild 1990 US$ 8500/9900 HK$ 66400/77500 Consistenly good notes: very deep, virtually opaque core, rich, velvety, stillyouthful; bouquet slow to evolve but developing fragrant spiciness, touch of cedar and typical medicinal whiff, medium-sweet, perfect weight good flavour, balance, length and excellent finish. A classic Lafite. Michael Broadbent 香氣一直不錯..非常深沉, 中心近乎不透明, 豐富, 柔滑, 仍然年輕 ; 香氣需時演化, 但終會發出芳香的香料氣色, 並有一陣雪松和典型的藥材味 甜度中等, 重量完美, 味道不俗, 平衡, 長度充足而餘韻一流 經典的 Lafite (Michael Broadbent) LAFITE 1990 : The bite is sincere and elegant, with many tight and mature tannins. It has a silky texture, and a very long finish. This wine may be preserved for a very long time. LAFITE 1990: 入口衷誠而典雅, 單寧緊緻成熟 具有柔滑的結構, 長度等佳 有力存放極長時間 bts Cht Lafite Rothschild 1990 US$ 8500/9900 HK$ 66400/ btls into neck, 1 btl base of neck bts Cht Lafite Rothschild 1990 US$ 4300/5000 HK$ 34000/ btls into neck, 2 base of neck 23

24 bts Cht Lafite Rothschild OWC 1988 US$ 8500/9900 HK$ 66400/ btls into neck, 1 btl base of neck Still very deep, intense, opaque core but on the verge of maturity; high Cabernet Sauvignon noticeable though overall subdued; on the palate, sweet, almost chewable, with a good long, dry finish. Michael Broadbent 仍然非常深沉, 強烈, 中心晦暗但已將近成熟 ; 雖然含蓄但 Cabernet Sauvignon 味道明顯存在 ; 口感頗甜, 幾可咀嚼, 收尾長度甚佳, 而且乾口 (Michael Broadbent) LAFITE 1988 : The 1988s are deeply coloured Cabernets and Merlots, powerfully structured and tannic. LAFITE 1988: Cabernet 和 Merlot 都色彩甚深, 結構和單寧俱甚有力 btls Cht Lafite Rothschild OWC 1988 US$ 8500/9900 HK$ 66400/ btls into neck, 4 base of neck btls Cht Lafite Rothschild 1988 US$ 7800/8800 HK$ 60900/ btls high fill, 5 into neck, 3 base of neck btls Cht Lafite Rothschild 1986 US$ 5400/7100 HK$ 42000/ btls into neck, 3 base of neck; 2 very slightly bin-soiled labels lot of 4 btls including : - 3 btls Cht Lafite Rothschild btls high fill, 1into neck, 3 very bin-soiled labels US$ 5400/6400 HK$ 42000/ btl Cht Lafite Rothschild 1981 into neck; bin-soiled label lot of 3 btls including : - 1 btl Cht Lafite Rothschild high fill 1992 HK$66400/ btls Cht Lafite Rothschild 1980 US$ 1400/2100 HK$ 11000/ btls base of neck : 1 damaged, slightly bin-soiled label; 1 damaged, bin-soiled capsule btls Cht Lafite Rothschild 1983 US$ 2600/3500 HK$ 20000/ base of neck, 1 btl into neck Most recently: fairly deep; fair fragrance; surprisingly sweet, not bad fruit. Faint praise. Perhaps unfair. Michael Broadbent 最近..頗深沉; 香氣怡人 ; 甜度令人驚訝, 果味不俗 賞譽不多, 似欠公允 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Lafite Rothschild 1982 US$ 34000/39800 HK$ / Very deep, velvety colour; needs air and patience, once aroused, fragrant and delicious. Fairly substantial, not immediately impressive, give it time. Michael Broadbent 非常深沉光滑的顏色; 需要空氣和耐性, 醒後芳香可口 頗結實, 需要時間方能動人 (Michael Broadbent) mag Cht Lafite Rothschild 1980 US$ 2600/3200 HK$ 20000/ mag Cht Lafite Rothschild base of neck 1980 US$ 2600/3200 HK$ 20000/ mag Cht Lafite Rothschild 1979 US$ 1000/1300 HK$ 7800/10000 into neck; very slightly damaged label Very deep, velvety; good nose; hefty, still tannic. Michael Broadbent 非常深沉柔滑; 香氣可人 ; 有重量, 單寧沉靜 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Lafite Rothschild 1974 US$ 5400/6400 HK$ 42000/ btls into neck, 3 base of neck, 1 btl upper-shoulder; 6 bin-soiled labels; 2 very damaged btls btl Cht Lafite Rothschild base of neck 1970 US$ 700/1100 HK$ 5500/ Dmag Cht Lafite Rothschild 3L 1961 US$ 8500/12800 HK$ 66400/99600 top-shoulder; bin-soiled label btls Cht Lafite Rothschild 1956 US$ 2100/2800 HK$ 16600/ btls mid-shoulder; damaged, bin-soiled labels Jeroboam Cht Lafite Rothschild 5L 1945 US$ 21300/28400 HK$ / cm below cork, top-shoulder; broken wax, broken capsule btl Cht Lafite Rothschild 1896 US$ 4300/7100 HK$ 33200/55300 high fill; recorked by Cellar Master at the Château btl Cht Lafite Rothschild 1878 US$ 4300/7100 HK$ 33200/55300 high fill; recorked by Cellar Master at the Château DMAG Cht Lafite Rothschild 1870 US$ 28400/71000 HK$ / upper-shoulder; short; vintage visible on cork; back label Buyer agent for Belgium P. Mairesse btl Cht Lafite Rothschild 1865 US$ 5000/7800 HK$ 38900/60900 mid-shoulder; repackaged; slightly damaged label 24

25 Lot 22 LES CARRUADES DE LAFITE By Robert M. Parker, Jr The second wine of Lafite Rothschild, Carruades de Lafite, has become one of the finest second wines produced. The 2003 is absolutely stunning. The wine shares much of the same character as its more famous sibling - just the tannins are lighter and the wine is made in a style that gives it immediate accessibility- but the Lafite mystique and personality can be detected. LES CARRUADES DE LAFITE Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 Lafite Rothschild 的副牌酒 Carruades de Lafite 已成為數一數二的副牌酒, 其中又以 2003 年最教人驚喜 兩者之間相似之處甚多, 副牌酒不過單寧較輕而已 它的風格平易近人, 但無損當中 Lafite 的奧妙與性格 btls Carruades de Lafite 1998 US$ 2800/3500 HK$ 22100/27700 Carruades de Lafite 1998 : Its colour is dark, and it has an expressive and woody bouquet. This wine has a powerful and silky palate, and the finish is exceptionally long. Carruades de Lafite 1998: 顏色深沉, 迫人的香氣帶木本氣色 口感柔滑有力, 餘韻特長 lot of 7 blts including : - 2 btl Carruades de Lafite high fill btl Carruades de Lafite high fill btls Carruades de Lafite high fill 1989 US$ 2300/2900 HK$ 18000/

26 26 Lot 37

27 Latour The best Bordeaux in the bad years Constant, regular, in good as well as poor years The history of the estate probably dates back to the fourteenth century. Latour de Saint Maubert was actually built during this century. The tower was a strategic place during the 100-year-war, as it dominated the Gironde estuary. Unfortunately, this tower does not exist anymore, and the current tower is no longer the same. During the seventeenth century, the family Ségur became the owner of Château Latour. At that time, this family owned numerous estates in the region. In the eighteenth century, Latour acquired an international reputation, particularly thanks to the development of the English market. Then the château s reputation increased constantly, and finally became one of the best. A proof of this is its recognition as a premier grand cru classé at the 1855 classification. The nineteenth century was a prosperous period for the castle. This period has seen, as well, the construction of the castle as it is today. In 1963, the descendants of the Marquis de Ségur sold 75% of their shares. It was followed by many changes: extension of the vineyard (birth of the second wine), improvement of the drainage system, modernization and extension of the winery Located in the famous Médoc area, specifically in the city of Pauillac, the vineyard of the château has 78 hectares, of which only 47, called L Enclos, are dedicated to the production of the great wine. This soil, unique in its kind, lies at 300 meters from the Gironde. Indeed, to produce a great wine in this region, you must have a view on the river. Its vines are also characteristic of the Médoc appellation: cabernet sauvignon (80%), merlot (18%), cabernet franc and petit verdot (2%). The most typical wine of the Médoc region: fine mix of tannins and red fruit 在欠佳的年份中, 最好的波爾多紅酒 穩定 恒常, 不分年份好與壞 酒莊的歷史可以追溯到 14 世紀 Latour de Saint Maubert 興建時期 城樓位處 Gironde 河口, 所以在百年戰爭期間是戰略要地 可惜, 這座城樓已湮沒無存, 今日的城樓已是另一個模樣 到了 17 世紀,Ségur 家族成為了 Latour 酒莊的主人 當時, 這個家族擁有區內大量莊園 在 18 世紀, 很大程度由於英國市場的發展,Latour 在國際間享負盛名, 而且聲譽日隆, 並最終成為最佳紅酒之一 證明之一, 尌是它在 1855 年的鑒別會中取得 一等最高級別 城堡在 19 世紀繁榮昌盛, 今日眼前的城堡尌在當成建成 1963 年,de Ségur 侯的後人售出了四份之三股權, 許多變化隨之而來..葡萄園的擴張 ( 副牌酒的出現 ) 去水系統的改善 現代化 酒廠擴張 酒莊的葡萄園位處著名的 Médoc 區 Pauillac 城, 佔地 78 公頃, 其中只有 47 公頃 ( 稱為 L Enclos ) 用作生產這種佳釀 此處泥土獨特, 離 Gironde 河 300 米 誠然, 在這區域出產美酒, 尌必頇 河水在望 它的葡萄成份也是 Médoc 區份的特色.. cabernet sauvignon (80%) merlot (18%) cabernet franc 和 petit verdot (2%), 是典型的 Médoc 區紅酒..單寧與紅果融為一體 27

28 LATOUR By Robert M. Parker, Jr This estate was bought in 1994 by Paris businessman François Pinault, largely because it was his favorite wine from Bordeaux. Under his ownership, the winery and cellars have undergone major renovations; enormous improvements in both the cuverie and cellars have taken place; and there is, of course, the wine. Pinault has pushed Latour to even greater heights, and in recent vintages Latour has often produced the wine of the vintage, as it did in 1999, 2001, 2002, 2003 (along with Lafite and Ausone), and This is a first growth operating on all cylinders, producing absolutely riveting wines of great richness and intensity, which are increasingly selling at the level of famous works of art. The character of Forts de Latour (their second wine) is astonishingly similar to Latour itself, only lighter and quicker to mature. Les Forts de Latour is certainly the finest of the second labels produced by the well-known châteaux in Bordeaux. This second wine has quickly emerged as one of the two or three best second wines in all of Bordeaux, especially since LATOUR Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 巴黎商人 François Pinault 最喜歡的紅酒來自波爾多, 這很大程度是他在 1994 年購入這個莊園的原因 在其領導 下, 酒廠和酒窖進行了大翻新, 無論栽培方面或酒窖都得到很大改善, 紅酒質素也因此而提升 Pinault 將 Latour 提升到另一層次, 近年年份的 Latour 跟 ( 與 Lafite 和 Ausone 一道 ) 和 2005 年一 樣, 都成為該年度最佳紅酒 這種第一級紅酒經過全心全意的製作, 吸引力十足, 配合豐富的口感和強度, 因其 藝術程度而愈受歡迎 他們的副牌酒 Forts de Latour 的特性與 Latour 本身驚人地相似, 其分別只不過是前者較輕 盈和更快成熟 在波爾多著名酒莊之間,Forts de Latour 肯定是最細膩的副牌酒 ; 尤其在 2000 年以後, 它已成 為波爾多數一數二的副牌酒 Lot 52 28

29 34. 3 btls Cht Latour OWC 2002 US$ 1000/1700 HK$ 7800/13300 Still very deep and fairly intense ; sweet, spicy nose, touch of ginger ; sweet on palate, very good flavour and texture. Very tannic, good future. Michael Broadbent 依然非常醇厚而頗見濃郁 甜香和辛香附以薑味點綴, 口味帶甜而味道質感俱為上乘 單寧十足, 可藏釀 (Michael Broadbent) LATOUR 2002 : The 2002 tannic potential was similar to the vintage 2000 in term of color intensity and polyphenolic structure. On tasting, the good level of acidity added a powerful sensation to the aromatic complexity of this wine. There is an amazing quality of fruit, fine and elegant tannins and a rich and full structure which reflects its terroir. At the end of the assemblage we were certain that the quality of 2002 would surpass the 2001 s. Some like to compare this vintage with LATOUR 2002: 尌顏色濃淺與多酚類的結構而言,2002 年的單能潛質與 2000 年的相若 複雜的香氣加上可人酸度, 別具力度 果實質量教人意外, 單寧細緻高雅, 土壤令結構豐富完整 攙和後 2002 年的質素肯定超越 2001 年 有些人喜歡將之與 1986 年相比 btls Cht Latour OWC 2001 US$ 1800/2600 HK$ 13800/20000 Opaque but not intense ; low-keyed ; some sweetness, fleshy, velvety/ leathery tannin. Michael Broadbent 不透明但不強烈; 低調 ; 帶甜味, 有肉感, 單寧柔滑而強韌 (Michael Broadbent) that the 2001 vintage is a homogeneous mixture of the characteristics of the past vintages of Château Latour. It resembles : - the 1996 for its flesh and fruit - the 1986 for its tannic structure, backbone and style 年有著過往 Latour 酒莊的特色, 包括 年的肉感和果實 年的單寧結構 主幹和風格 Today, we are sure that the 2001 vintage will be one of the top vintages of the past few years. The wine of this vintage is classic, racy, and shows a very pure balance. Quality : Very good year 現在, 我們可以肯定 2001 年是過去幾年間最好的釀造 這年份的紅酒是經典, 風味獨特而且平衡感非常純正 btls Cht Latour OWC 2001 US$ 1800/2600 HK$ 13800/ btls Cht Latour 1998 US$ 1700/2600 HK$ 13800/ btls Cht Latour 1992 US$ 1400/2100 HK$ 11000/ btls into neck, 1 btl base of neck, very slightly bin-soiled label LATOUR 1992: The wines show a good structure, are well-balanced and easy to drink. They are bursting with fruit and spicy aromas. The Grand Vin is a sweet supple and charming Latour with a good concentration and moderate tannins in the finish. LATOUR 1992: 結構良好 平衡而且易於入口, 充滿了果香與香料芳香 這頂級葡萄酒柔順迷人, 留香帶濃郁而溫和的單寧 bts Cht Latour OWC 1989 US$ 3500/4300 HK$ 27500/ btls high fill, 1 btl base of neck Deep, medium intensity, still youthful; nose low-keyed at first but opened up pleasantly, very sweet, rich, cedary; dry, crisp, high extract though modest weight, crisp, still peppery, tannic finish. A very good mouthful needing plenty of ageing. Michael Broadbent 深沉, 強度中等, 仍然年輕 ; 香氣最初含蓄, 但開放後十分怡人, 非常甜, 豐富 雪松 ; 乾口, 清脆, 萃取雖多而重度適度, 留香帶胡椒香和單寧 口感很 好, 仍有待陳化 (Michael Broadbent) LATOUR 1989 : Dense, with «confit» aromas, almost exotic, concentrated but very opulent, very rich, the wines are still «young and wild» for the moment LATOUR 1989: 濃厚, 帶 香料 芳香, 近乎奇特, 濃重而豐腴, 口感豐富 仍覺 年輕不 btls Cht Latour OWC 1989 US$ 3500/4300 HK$ 27500/ btls high fill, 2 btls into neck btls Cht Latour OWC 1989 US$ 3500/4300 HK$ 27500/ btls high fill 41bis. 12 btls Cht Latour OWC 1989 US$ 3500/4300 HK$ 27500/ btls Cht Latour OWC 1988 US$ 3500/4300 HK$ 27500/ btls high fill, 6 btls into neck Not as deep as expected but with a rich core; cheese rind nose very sweaty tannins; dry, rich, fruit-packed, lovely flavour but very tannic. Michael Broadbent 未如預期中深沉, 但中心豐富 ; 有 芝士硬皮 的香氣, 單寧帶甚強汗味 ; 乾口, 豐富, 果味濃郁, 風味可人但單寧過重 (Michael Broadbent) LATOUR 1988 : A classic Pauillac year very much marked by the Cabernet Sauvignon. The Grand Vin displays concentrated aromas of coffee, liquorice and truffle, even if its color is still dark rubis. The mouth is very structured, elegant and very concentrated, with a long back-bone of tannins and a persistent finish. Yet, the tannins are still a little austere and need a few more years to smoothen up. LATOUR 1988: 經典的 Pauillac 年份, 以 Cabernet Sauvignon 為主導 帶濃厚的咖啡 甘草和松露芳香, 但顏色仍然是深紅 口感結構良佳, 典雅而濃重, 悠長的留 香有長單寧為主幹 不過, 單寧仍略嫌乾澀, 需數年時間方轉柔和 btls Cht Latour OWC 1988 US$ 3500/4300 HK$ 27500/ btls high fill, 7 btls into neck btls Cht Latour OWC 1988 US$ 3500/4300 HK$27500/ btls high fill, 7 btls into neck btls Cht Latour OWC 1988 US$ 3500/4300 HK$27500/ btls high fill, 6 btls into neck, 3 btls base of neck btls Cht Latour OWC 1988 US$ 3500/4300 HK$27500/ btls high fill, 6 btls into neck, 1 btl base of neck mag Cht Latour 1984 US$ 3500/4300 HK$27500/33500 into neck; damaged label Medium deep, mature; sweet, chewy oaky nose wich opened up richly; sweeter than expected, extract masking tannin. Michael Broadbent 中等深沉, 成熟 ; 甜口, 柔軟而黏乎乎的橡木氣息澎湃而出 ; 較預期甜, 單寧潛藏萃華之中 (Michael Broadbent) 1984 proved to be a vintage of medium concentration and average quality. The tannins, which seemed harsh in youth because of the Merlot s lack of roundness, have softened considerably with the ageing. The wines are now developing considerable aromatic complexity, but are not very impressive on the palate lacking richness and structure. 1984: 1984 年是濃度中等而質量平均的一年 由於 Merlot 欠圓潤, 單寧年輕時頗覺凌厲, 但陳化後已轉緩和 香氣複雜度正在發展中, 但口感只屬一般, 頗欠豐 腴與結構 29

30 32 30

31 LATOUR 1982 : A truly great vintage : the wines are highly colored, with an exceptionally complex nose (still a little closed), and a mouth that has everything : fruit, flesh, concentration, elegance, balance and harmony, and a long finish. It s a very big wine but its softness and richness makes it already accessible. LATOUR 1982: 非常出色的佳釀..顏色甚佳, 香氣非常複雜 ( 仍略覺緊密 ), 優點包羅萬有..果實 肉感 濃重 高雅 平衡和諧和, 留香悠長 宏大之餘, 其柔順與豐腴已令它平易近人 btls Cht Latour OWC 1982 US$ 2600/3500 HK$20000/ btls upper-shoulder btls Cht Latour OWC 1981 US$ 1100/1800 HK$8300/14000 LATOUR 1981 : This vintage has confirmed all its potential qualities : it looks as a «classic» Pauillac, very «Cabernet». The wine is well-colored, and develops classic aromas of cedar, spices and tobacco. In the mouth, it has a good volume, abundant fruit, good tannic structure and has acquired a certain roundness now LATOUR 1981: 盡展潛能..一如 經典 Pauillac, 非常 Cabernet 顏色甚佳, 有雪松 香料和煙草等傳統芳香 口感充裕, 果味十足, 單寧結構不俗, 已頗覺圓潤 btls Cht Latour OWC 1981 US$ 1100/1800 HK$8300/ btls Cht Latour 1979 US$ 2700/3200 HK$20500/ btls base of neck, 7 btls into neck Very deep, still youthful-looking; bouquet reminding me of privet dry. Little fruit to mask excessively raw tannin. Michael Broadbent 非常深沉, 看來依舊年輕, 香氣令人聯想到水蠟樹, 乾口 果味未足掩蓋未成熟的單寧 (Michael Broadbent) 1979 : The red wines in general were of high quality with beautiful color, good body and a good tannic constitution. The wine has a very deep color, with a rich and profound nose of musk, leather and ripe fruits. Rich mouth with charm and roundness and an elegant finish. 1979: 一般紅酒都有美麗顏色和優良品質, 酒體及單寧結構亦不俗 顏色甚深, 有馥郁深邃的麝香 皮革和成熟果實的芳香 口感豐富, 帶魅力和圓潤, 留香高雅 btls Cht Latour 1976 US$ 1100/1800 HK$8300/ btls into neck, 4 btl base of neck; very slightly bin-soiled labels Fully evolved; the sweetness of ripe grapes and fairly high alcohol. A really delicious mouthful. Michael Broadbent 已完全演化; 熟葡萄的甜味和頗高的酒精味道 非常可口 (Michael Broadbent) LATOUR 1976 : The color is now a little brownish. Cedar and caramel nose with a touch of overripe tomato. The wine is full of fruit, rich, with a fresh acidity, full-bodied but lacks a little elegance. LATOUR 1976: 略呈褐色, 雪松和焦糖氣色中略顯過熟蕪茄的芳香 口感不俗並帶有果味, 酸度清新, 醇厚之餘略失優雅 btls Cht Latour 1973 US$ 900/1300 HK$6500/10500 LATOUR 1971 : The wine is now slowly showing some signs of aging in color. On the nose, it has a distinctive bee wax aroma with caramel and toffee. In the mouth it is full-bodied, with sweet tannins, although still very dense and rich. LATOUR 1971: 顏色中漸見成熟跡象, 有明顯蜂蠟芳香, 附以焦糖和乳脂氣息 口感醇厚, 甜單寧 酒身仍然渾厚而口感豐富 lot of 2 mag and 2 btls including : - 2 mag Cht Latour 1971 US$ 1900/2300 HK$15000/ upper-shoulder, 1 base of neck; slightly bin-soiled labels Surprisingly deep colour; attractive cedary bouquet, very slightly smoky; dryish, lean, quite a bite, tannic. Michael Broadbent 非常深的顏色, 令人意外 ; 引人的雪松香味, 微帶煙燻 ; 乾口, 不膩, 口感可人, 單寧 (Michael Broadbent) - 1 btl Cht Latour into neck 1993 LATOUR 1993: 1993 has a deep garnet colour, and though the bouquet is still a little closed, it is starting to develop nice dried plum and crystallised fruits aromas. In the mouth, after an initial impression of softness and silkiness, the palate stretches out surprisingly onto very persistent flavours. The tannins are well fleshed out without any harshness. Not a monster, but a very balanced wine with concentration and class. LATOUR 1993: 深紅色, 雖然香氣仍略覺緊閉, 但開始發展成乾梅子與結晶果實的芳香 口感初有柔順軟滑, 惟漸覺味道持久 單寧肉感頗佳, 不覺辛辣 並非 怪物, 而是帶有濃重和風度的平衡紅酒 - 1 btl Cht Latour 1975 top-shoulder; bin-soiled; nicked btl Cht Latour 92% Parker 1947 US$ 1000/1400 HK$7700/11000 into neck; recorked and relabeled at the Château in 1996 LATOUR 1947 : A very commercial wine which matured rapidly but has proved very long-lived. Color is still not showing to much of age, tar and chocolate on the nose, full-bodied, held by a very good acidity. Quality : Great year LATOUR 1947: 非常商業化, 成熟速度甚快, 但非常長壽 顏色尚未展現太多陳化, 香氣帶焦油與巧克力, 酒體醇厚, 酸度甚佳 品質..特佳 LES FORTS DE LATOUR. Pauillac, 2ème vin de Château Latour btls Les Forts de Latour OWC 1998 US$ 1100/1700 HK$9000/ bis. 6 btls Les Forts de Latour OWC 1990 US$ 1000/1400 HK$7500/

32 Margaux Lot

33 From Engels to Karl Marx: What is your greatest happiness? From Karl Marx to Engels: A bottle of Château Margaux 1848! The origins of the château Margaux come from the twelfth century, when la Mothe de Margaux stood right at the place of the current castle. At that time, there were no vineyards on the estate. Following the 100-year-war, during the sixteenth century, the family Lestonnec, especially Pierre de Lestonnec, reconstituted the estate. In the early eighteenth century, Berlon, bailiff of the estate, helped to improve the techniques of vinification. He decided to separate the red grapes from the white ones. He also chose not to make the vintage during the morning (because the grapes are covered with dew) and to highlight the best plots. Already at that time, English minister Sir Robert Walpole bought four barrels of this wine every three months. Just as Thomas Jefferson, Ambassador of the USA in France, who wrote there cannot be a better bottle than bottle of château Margaux. In the middle of the eighteenth century, Joseph de Fumel planted the best vines on the best plots. However, the end of the century was quite a difficult period, due mainly to the French revolution. In the nineteenth century, the Marquis of Colonilla bought the castle in auction. He then built, instead of the Gothic mansion, unrepresentative, he said, of the estate, the house, which can be admired today. Louis Combes took care of the work and fulfilled his life s work, which has been nicknamed the Versailles of Médoc. It was a real viticultural city. Indeed, the estate was recognized as historic monument in After the death of Colonilla, Aguado bought it. His daughter-in-law sold it in 1879 to the Count Pillet-Will. The nineteenth century was marked, in particular, by the emergence of a fungus, coming from the USA, the oïdium. However, during the famous 1855 classification, which classified the wines of the Médoc and a property of Graves (the Château Haut-Brion), the Château Margaux was ranked among the elite of the four premier grand cru classé (Mouton Rothschild joined them in 1973). It was the only one to be rated 20/20. However, the Count Pillet-Will faced a very difficult period: after the oïdium, another fungus, the famous mildew and then the phylloxera, (an insect coming from America), arrived in the Bordeaux s vineyards. After these diseases, it will need to wait until 1893 to find a great vintage as the After the death of Pillet-Will, his son-in-law, the Duke of Trémoille, inherited the property. The broker, Pierre Moreau, a trusted man of the Duke, forced the mise en bouteille au château (wine bottling at the château) in It will be stopped in 1930 and taken back in The family Girestet acquired the estate around the year The recession of the 70th and some disastrous vintages (1972, 1973, and 1974) forced Pierre and Bernard Girestet to sell the estate to André Mentzelopoulos. He was a true pioneer and decided to invest in the castle, in order to offer the best possibilities for redressing the level of the château Margaux: selecting new vines, aging wines in new barrels, planning This man brought the renaissance of this wine. Therefore, the year 1978 was welcomed as an exceptional one. At his death in 1980, his daughter, Corinne, took over the estate. The 1980s were marked with the renewal of the property. The Château Margaux is a privileged wine, on many points, but it has the unique chance to bear the same name as its appellation. Some vintages have become legendary ones: 1900, 1953, 1961, 1982, 1990 These vintages can be kept well for more than a century Combining cabernet sauvignon (75%), merlot (20%), petit verdot and cabernet franc (5%), the estate is located on a clay, limestone soil (where is located the merlot) of white graves, which are a special kind of gravel. Like a great Bordeaux, this wine must be served chambré, ie around C (64-66 F). Regarding decanting, ie pouring wine from the original bottle into a carafe over a burning candle (to see the sediment), is not a necessity for young wines. Slightly aerating them is, however, advisable, in order to liven them up a little. Decanting older vintages is not absolutely necessary. However, if there is sediment in the bottle, regardless of the age of the wine, decanting is strongly recommended. Decanting should not be done too early before tasting. The castle has 300 hectares, on which 84 are solely dedicated to the vine: Château Margaux, Pavillon Rouge, and Pavillon Blanc are great wines, produced by the estate. A rich wine with beautiful and complex bouquet 33

34 恩格斯問馬克斯.. 甚麼東西令你最快樂? 馬克斯答恩格斯.. 一瓶 Château Margaux 1848! Margaux 酒莊源自 12 世紀, 當時 la Mothe de Margaux ( 意為 Margaux 略聳之地 ) 尌在現時城堡之處, 四周亦未有葡萄園 百年戰爭後,Lestonnec 家族 ( 特別是 Pierre de Lestonnec) 在 16 世紀在此重建了城堡 18 世紀初, 莊園的管家 Berlon 協助改善釀酒技巧 他決定把紅白葡萄分開, 而且不在早上釀酒 ( 因為朝露覆蓋著葡萄 ) 並採用最優質的土地種植 當時, 英國官員 Sir Robert Walpole 已經會每三個月買四桶這種紅酒 ; 時任美國駐法國大使的傑佛遜尌寫道.. Château Margaux 實在無與倫比 18 世紀中,Joseph de Fumel 在最佳的土壤上種植最佳的葡萄樹 但到了世紀末, 由於法國大革命爆發, 一切都變得困難 到了 19 世紀,Colonilla 侯爵在拍賣會中買下城堡後, 沒有按潮流興建哥德式大孛 他認為這處建築太欠特色, 於是由 Louis Combes 操刀, 一遂侯爵心願而改為興建我們今時今日看到的大孛模樣 這建築物被稱為 Médoc 區的凡爾賽宮 這是一座不折不扣的栽種葡萄的城市, 莊園也在 1946 年被確認為歷史建築 侯爵死後,Aguado 買下莊園, 然後他的媳婦在 1879 年又將之售予 Pillet-Will 伯爵 19 世紀可堪一書的大事, 尌是來自美國的真菌 白粉菌 (oïdium) 出現 但到了有名的 1855 年鑒別會中 ( 該會旨在品評 Médoc 區和 Graves 區 Château Haut-Brion 的紅酒 ),Château Margaux 是四個獲得 一等最高級別 (premier grand cru classé) 殊榮的酒莊之一 (Mouton Rothschild 在 1973 年加入 ), 也是惟一獲得 20/20 最高評分的酒莊 好景不常, 在白粉菌後, 波爾多又迎來了另一種有名的真菌 黴菌, 然後是葡萄虱 ( 一種來自美洲的昆蟲 ), 以致 1870 年佳釀的接班者, 要到 1893 年才再次出現 伯爵死後, 他的女婿 Trémoille 公爵繼承了莊園, 其深受信任的代理人 Pierre Moreau 在 1924 年強制實施 mise en bouteille au château ( 在莊園將酒入瓶 ) 這項孜排在 1930 年暫定, 但到 1949 年又再恢復 在約 1950 年,Girestet 家族收購了酒莊, 但 70 年代的經濟衰退加上幾年欠佳的釀造 ( 和 1974 年 ), 使 Pierre 和 Bernard Girestet 不得不向 André Mentzelopoulos 出售莊園 他是一位真正的先驅者 他決定向城堡投資, 令 Margaux 莊園有推陳出新的機會, 並選擇新的葡萄樹 在新桶裏讓紅酒成熟 從新計劃 他令 Margaux 得以重生, 成果尌是 1978 年被高度推許 他在 1980 年逝世後, 由女兒 Corinne 繼承莊園, 並在 1980 年代予以重修 從許多角度看來,Château Margaux 是一種幸運的紅酒, 但它也有得天獨厚的優勢以取得今日的地位 其部份佳釀如 年等, 已經成為經典, 可以存放一個世紀以上 它的成份包括 cabernet sauvignon (75%) merlot (20%) petit verdot 和 cabernet franc (5%), 酒莊則位處混合了黏土和石灰石的白色砂礫泥層 (merlot 尌在此生長 ) 之上 跟其他上乘的波爾多紅酒一樣,Margaux 應在 chambré 的情況下享用, 即介乎攝氏 度 ( 華氏 度 ) 至於換瓶方面, 也尌是把紅酒從舊瓶經一根燃點著的蠟蠋 ( 以觀察沉積物 ) 換到新瓶, 其實對年紀尚輕的紅酒來說並非必要的一步 但是, 若想讓它活潑一點的話, 尌應略作醒酒之的步驟 老酒不一定需要換瓶, 但如果瓶內出現沉積物, 則無論紅酒年齡為甚麼, 都應該換瓶 換瓶與品酒時間不宜太接近 城堡面積 300 公頃, 有 84 公頃專用於種植葡萄樹,Château Margaux Pavillon Rouge 和 Pavillon Blanc 這些美酒都在此出產, 口感豐富, 芬芳濃郁而複雜 36 34

35 CHATEAU MARGAUX By Robert M. Parker, Jr After a distressing period of mediocrity in the 1960s and 1970s, this property has returned to form under the auspices of the Mentzelopoulos family, who bought it in It took the new owners only one vintage to produce a wine worthy of this estate s premier grand cru status. Today, Margaux is consistently top-flight and generally one of the finest first growths of Bordeaux. The style of Margaux is one of opulent richness, with a deep, complex bouquet of ripe black currants, spicy vanilla, and violets. Today the estate is owned jointly by the Mentzelopoulos and Agnelli families, and managed by the brilliant Paul Pontallier. What is probably less well known is that their white wine, 100% Sauvignon Blanc, is one of the finest dry whites of Bordeaux and has been especially strong since the late 1990s, although one can argue that there s nothing at all wrong with the vintages prior to that. Their second wine, which easily represents 30% to 50% of the declassified Château Margaux, is Pavillon Rouge, which also has come on strong lately with some beautiful efforts in the 21st century. CHATEAU MARGAUX Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 經過平平無奇的 1960 和 70 年代後, 酒莊在 Mentzelopoulos 家族 1977 年收購和主理下已經回復水準 新主人 只花了一年時間, 尌令酒莊出品再次無愧乎 一等最高級別 的榮譽 現在,Margaux 表現穩定, 經常是波爾多 區最重色的第一級紅酒 其風格是豐富的口感, 加上深厚複雜的成熟黑醋栗 香草和紫菫花香氣 現時酒莊由 Mentzelopoulos 及 Agnelli 家族共同擁 有, 並由一流的 Paul Pontallier 打理 未必為人熟知的, 是他們的白酒 100% Sauvignon Blanc 是波爾多一流的乾白酒, 自 1990 年代末已經表現強勁 當然, 也會有人說, 在此以 前的釀造也是同樣出色 他們的副牌酒 Pavillon Rouge 約佔未分級 Château Margaux 的 30% 至 50%, 它在 21 世 紀也不時有佳作出現 bts Cht Margaux OWC 2004 US$ 800/1100 HK$ 6100/8300 MARGAUX 2004 : Château Margaux 2004 is therefore a great classic vintage. There is great finesse and above all purity on the nose. In this subtle combination of floral, fruit and spice aromas, all are clearly present but no single aroma dominates. On the palate, the tannic structure is tight-knit, fine and tender. The general impression is firstly balance, precision, freshness and finally an air-light grace which can only be found in great Margaux. MARGAUX 2004: Château Margaux 2004 因此是個經典年份..細膩之餘, 芳香雅馴, 隱然有花 水果和香料的氣息, 但三者均衡而不互相抑壓 單寧結構緊密 纖細而且溫柔 最初感覺是均衡 準確 生機勃勃, 最後是輕盈的優雅, 這點只會在優秀的 Margaux 身上展現 bts Cht Margaux OWC 2002 US$ 700/900 HK$ 5500/7200 Merlot crop seriously affected by poor summer. Highest-ever percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in blend. Plummy purple, attractive fruit and spicy new oak; very flavoury and relatively easy. Michael Broadbent Merlot 收成因夏天情況糟糕而大受打擊 歷來最高比例的 Cabernet Sauvignon 梅子紫色, 果味誘人, 有新橡木的香氣 ; 非常可口, 平易近人 (Michael Broadbent) MARGAUX 2002: an elegance and softness on the palate, reminiscent also of the 1990 and 1996 vintages. It seemed in fact that 2000 was setting a new benchmark in quality, never before attained, at least in terms of style. Throughout the barrel ageing time, these first impressions were gradually confirmed. The wine has now acquired a slightly tighter texture and at the same time keeps such a soft and especially long finish that it seems to go on forever The bottling took place in November 2002, after over 2 years of barrel ageing. Such a long ageing is unusual but not as rare as one might think: most of the greatest vintages are aged for that length of time. Over five years have passed now, and the wine is still there, of course, but it is hiding in the background, away from the light. Its presence, though, can be sensed rather than felt We should perhaps wait patiently for the 2000 to come out and not rush into drinking this wine, which is bound to become a legend one day. MARGAUX 2002: 口感典雅柔順, 令人想貣 1990 和 1996 年的釀造 2000 年似乎已在質量方面取得高峰, 此前除風格之外, 從未取得如斯成尌 在木桶陳化期間, 這些印象尌漸漸得到證實 它現在質感稍稍變得更緊緻, 同時不失柔軟和似乎無窮無盡的留香 超過兩年的陳化後, 入瓶在 2002 年 11 月進行 如此長時間的陳化並不尋常, 但亦不是罕見..多數的佳釀都會用同樣時間陳化 五年過後, 它當然仍在這裏, 默默留孚在黑暗之中, 其存在是靠感應而非感覺所得 我們應給予 2000 年一點時間, 不要心急喝, 因為它定成大器 35

36 59. 6 bts Cht Margaux OWC 2001 US$ 1400/2100 HK$ 11100/ base of neck Deep, richly coloured ; distinctive young nose; amazingly sweet, fleshy, almost succulent, with silky and leathery tannin. Michael Broadbent 深沉, 顏色豐富 ; 獨特年輕的氣息 ; 意外地甜, 有肉感, 近乎多汁, 單寧順滑而強韌 (Michael Broadbent) bts Cht Margaux OWC 2001 US$ 1400/2100 HK$ 11100/ base of neck The 2001 Château Margaux clearly confirms its status as a very fine vintage. It can be likened to the 99, both by its great aromatic finesse and its tannic texture, which is so tender and harmonious. What more can we find to say about the sheer pleasure we are already experiencing, drinking these 2 wines? We are convinced that this early developing of the wine, simply the result of perfect ripeness in the grapes, will bring us many years of drinking pleasure. We can therefore drink the 2001 quite early and enjoy the freshness and purity of the fruit (why resist the temptation?), or for those of us who prefer to wait, it can be laid down 15 to 20 years, to allow the finesse of the bouquet to develop as the wine matures. While many aspects of the wine will develop, its balance, though, will remain 年的 Margaux 酒莊再次印證了自己的地位 它的芳香細緻和單寧結構可與 99 年相比, 兩者都溫婉諧和 飲此兩酒的時候, 還有甚麼詞彙可以形容那種愉悅呢?2001 年十分早熟, 這是因於採用的葡萄成熟度恰到好處, 我們可以開始飲用, 享受其果實的新鮮與純潔 ( 為甚麼要苦苦抗拒誘惑呢?) 又或許, 可以讓它靜待 15 至 20 年, 令細緻的芳香可以隨紅酒成熟而有所發展 它許多方面都會繼續變化, 但其平衡將依然存在, 亦肯會一直帶給我們甚多樂趣 bts Cht Margaux 100% Parker - OWC 2000 US$ 5000/6000 HK$ 38800/46500 Elegant and soft on the palate, reminiscent of the 1990 and 1996 vintages. It seemed in fact that 2000 was setting a new benchmark in quality, never before attained, at least in terms of style. Throughout the barrel ageing time, these first impressions were gradually confirmed. The wine has now acquired a slightly tighter texture and at the same time keeps such a soft and especially long finish that it seems to go on forever. Fairly deep, relaxed ; very good, fragrant, whiff of coffee ; medium-sweet, attractive but very tannic. Michael Broadbent 口感典雅柔順, 令人想貣 1990 和 1996 年的釀造 2000 年似乎已在質量方面取得高峰, 此前除風格之外, 從未取得如斯成尌 在木桶陳化期間, 這些印象尌漸漸得到證實 它現在質感稍稍變得更緊緻, 同時不失柔軟和似乎無窮無盡的留香 頗深沉, 寫意 ; 非常好, 芳香, 一縷咖啡芳香 ; 中等甜度, 吸引但單寧甚重 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Margaux OWC 1994 US$ 1700/2100 HK$ 13300/ btls Cht Margaux 1994 US$ 1700/2100 HK$ 13300/ btl high fill, 5 into neck btls Cht Margaux 1993 US$ 900/1100 HK$ 7300/ btl high fill, 2 into neck; very slightly bin-soiled labels btls Cht Margaux 100% Parker 1990 US$ 6400/7100 HK$ 49800/55300 The wines of the 1990 vintage, whether Merlot, Cabernets or Petit Verdot, were immediately outstandingly attractive, rich and tender, tight-grained but soft, with enticing fruit flavours. Today, all the aromas and flavours already mingle sweetly together into this wine, whose perfect harmony conceals a power comparable with Plummy deep core but starting to mature ; very fragrant bouquet ; lovely flavour, excellent balance but very tannic- needed food to accompany it, and more time. Michael Broadbent 1990 年的紅酒無論是 Merlot Cabernets 抑或 Petit Verdot, 都立即非常吸引, 豐富而溫柔 強韌但柔軟, 更有迷人果香 現在, 所有芳香與風味都已融為一體 ; 與 1989 年相比, 諧和之中隱含力量 中心如梅子並深沉, 但開始成熟, 非常芳香, 味道可人, 平衡度出眾, 但單寧甚強 頇以食物配搭, 亦需更多時間 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Margaux 1988 US$ 2800/3500 HK$ 22100/ btls top-shoulder; 1 damaged label The very deep colour, the rich, intense nose and the magnificent structure on the palate are very reminiscent of the They have the same powerful, ripe tannins, with perhaps a little less concentration, but also less austerity Still pretty deep ; crisp and fragrant. A very good wine with considerable length and future. Michael Broadbent 顏色極深, 香氣豐富而強烈, 口感結構宏大 與 1986 年非常相似, 因為兩者的單寧同樣強勁和成熟,1988 年的可能略輸濃度, 卻也較少乾澀 依然頗深沉; 清脆而芳香 以其留香和前景而言, 是非常好的酒 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Margaux OWC 1988 US$ 2800/3500 HK$ 22100/ btls high fill, 6 btls into neck, 1 btl base of neck top-shoulder btls Cht Margaux OWC 1988 US$ 2800/3500 HK$ 22100/ btls high fill, 9 btls into neck btls Cht Margaux OWC 1988 US$ 2800/3500 HK$ 22100/ btls into neck, 6 btls base of neck btls Cht Margaux OWC 1988 US$ 2800/3500 HK$ 22100/ btls into neck, 6 btls base of neck, 2 btls top-shoulder btls Cht Margaux OWC 1988 US$ 1400/1800 HK$ 11000/ btls into neck btls Cht Margaux 1983 US$ 1000/1300 HK$ 8000/12500 The very low percentage of Merlot in the blend, and the hard-won ripening of the Cabernet Sauvignon, gave this vintage from the outset a certain austerity and a characteristic firmness in the finish. Fortunately, the development in bottle has helped to soften the tannins. Today, on the palate, it is more tender, though it is still slightly dry in the finish. Merlot 比例極低, Cabernet Sauvignon 排除萬難後終於成熟, 兩者使 1984 年特別乾澀, 餘香也特別堅實 幸而瓶內的發展令單寧有所軟化 現時口感已變得更溫 婉, 雖然尾韻依然有點乾口 36

37 Lot btls Cht Margaux 1984 US$ 1400/2100 HK$ 11100/ btls base of neck, 10 btls top-shoulder; damaged capsules btls Cht Margaux 1983 US$ 4300/5000 HK$ 33200/ btls base of neck, 10 btls top-shoulder Today, the 1983 is certainly one of the most classic Margaux of the last twenty years. The bouquet has developed well, it has become rich, complex and mature. On the palate, the impression remains of great power with tannins which are still firm but without any hardness. Unquestionably the wine of the vintage : beautiful colour, medium-deep and still youthful ; the inimitable Margaux fragrance soaring out of the glass; sweet, soft and rich. It fills the mouth with flavour and seems to last for ever. Most recently: richly coloured; classic bouquet; delicious fruit and balance. A beautiful wine. Michael Broadbent 以現時狀況而言, 1983 年肯定是過去 20 年間數一數二的經典 Margaux 芳香發展良佳, 變得豐富 複雜和成熟 口感仍是充滿單寧的力量, 堅實但不嚴厲 無疑是頂級的佳釀..顏色美麗, 深度中等, 仍然年輕 ; 獨家的 Margaux 芳香奪杯而出 ; 甜口 柔軟而豐富 風味充斥口腔之中, 似乎沒完沒了 最近期..顏色鮮艷 ; 經典芳香 ; 可口的果實與平衡 美不可言的紅酒 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Margaux 1982 US$ 8500/10000 HK$ 66400/ btls base of neck, 8 btls top shoulder Château Margaux 1982 is a very powerful, fleshy and complex wine. The bouquet is already outstandingly rich and dense. The impression on the palate is at once of great power, roundness and suppleness. Such a balance is rare. Consistenly top of the class with power but less elegance. Nevertheless superb with its very fragrant hot vintage scent, sweetness, body, extract and very dry tannic finish. Michael Broadbent 力量十足, 帶肉感而複雜 香味已經十分豐富和濃郁 口感是立即充滿力量 圓潤而柔順 如此的平衡非常罕見 一直是充滿力量的選擇, 但失諸高雅 但依然出眾, 因為非常芳香, 甜口, 醇厚, 精萃, 餘香的單寧非常乾口 (Michael Broadbent) btl Cht Margaux 1982 US$ 700/1000 HK$ 5600/7800 base of neck; very slightly damaged capsule; very slightly damaged label btls Cht Margaux 1980 US$ 800/1000 HK$ 6100/ btls base of neck; Marianne capsule; dust The wine has always been supple, aromatic, fine and well balanced, but it lacks power. It has developed beyond our expectations and has today become a delicate vintage. 特別柔順 芳香 精細和平衡, 但缺少力量 發展出乎我們意料之外, 今時今日已經成為雅緻的佳釀 mag Cht Margaux into neck 1979 US$ 500/600 HK$ 3900/4200 A very fine vintage, whose style has often been compared with the 1978; it seemed to us that when one of them opened up, the other started to close again, and vice versa... But the tannins have always been more tender and soft than the Sweeter than expected, good flavour, but lean and with leathery tannic texture. Michael Broadbent 非常快意的佳釀, 風格常被用來與 1978 相比 對我們來說, 它似乎是打開一邊門時, 另一邊門又會關上, 如此這般 但與 1978 年相比, 單寧則更加柔和 比預期中甜, 味道不錯, 但不膩, 單寧結構強韌 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Margaux mid-shoulder 1970 US$ 700/1000 HK$ 5500/ mag Cht Margaux 1970 US$ 400/500 HK$ 2800/ btl base of neck, 3 btls top-shoulder; Eschenauer neck label; Marianne capsule; 3 bin-soiled labels; 1 bin-soiled and damaged label Château Margaux, 1970 demonstrated the quality of the vintage very well, but lacked a little concentration and flesh. The nose is complex, well developed, deep, and quite harmonious. On the palate, it is fine, pleasant, but a little short and dry in the finish. Medium deep, a lovely colour; nose low-keyed but harmonious, sweet, good fruit, slow to open up; medium sweetness and body, rich, good fruit, grip and balance; its sustaining tannins and acidity under control. Michael Broadbent 1970 年能很好地展現其質素, 但略欠濃度和肉感 芳香複雜, 發展良佳, 深沉, 而且頗見和諧 口感令人愉快, 但餘韻稍短而且乾口 中度深沉, 顏色可人 ; 含蓄但和諧的香氣, 甜口, 不俗果香, 開放需時 ; 甜度和酒體中等, 豐富, 果味頗佳, 緊緻而平衡 ; 持久的單寧和酸度未見失控 (Michael Broadbent) DMAG Cht Margaux 1870 US$ 25500/35500 HK$ / upper-shoulder; no capsule; very bin-soiled label; vintage legible on cork btl Cht Margaux 1870 US$ 4300/7100 HK$ 33200/55300 into neck; no capsule; vintage legible on cork btls Cht Pavillon Rouge de Cht Margaux 2007 US$ 1000/1500 HK$ 7800/ btls Cht Pavillon Rouge de Cht Margaux 2007 US$ 1000/1500 HK$ 7800/ btls Cht Pavillon Rouge de Cht Margaux 2006 US$ 2100/2900 HK$ 16600/ btls Cht Pavillon Rouge de Cht Margaux 2006 US$ 2100/2900 HK$ 16600/ btls Cht Pavillon Rouge de Cht Margaux 1992 US$ 2100/2900 HK$ 16600/ btls Cht Pavillon Rouge de Cht Margaux 1992 US$ 2100/2900 HK$ 16600/ btls Cht Pavillon Rouge de Cht Margaux btls into neck, 1 btl base of neck + 1 btl Cht Pavillon Rouge de Cht Margaux 1979 US$ 1100/1500 HK$ 8000/

38 Mouton Rothschild Premier je suis, second je fus, Mouton ne change ( First, I am. Second, I used to be. But Mouton does not change. ) This new motto has replaced the old one since 1973: Premier ne puis, second ne daigne, Mouton suis ( First I cannot be. Second, I do not deign to be. Mouton I am ) Calcareous ground, advantageous climate (exposure and sun) and passion of a man, this is how can be summarized the history of the château Mouton Rothschild. In 1853, the Baron Nathaniel bought the Brane Mouton estate in Pauillac in the middle of the Médoc. He decided to give it his own name, so that it became Château Mouton Rothschild. The name Mouton might come from the word mothon, which means high in French because the Château is at the top of hills. In 1922 Philippe de Rothschild was only twenty years old when he took over the operations of the Château Mouton Rothschild s vineyards and two years later, in 1924, for the first time, a vintage of Mouton Rothschild was bottled at the Château, a revolutionary step that the other great Bordeaux Châteaux would follow. Previously, the Châteaux sold their wines in barrels, leaving the maturing, bottling, labelling and marketing to be handled by the wine merchants. Philippe de Rothschild s idea was to maintain control over the quality of his product and allow marketing of the brand name. That is why he asked one of his friends, Jean Carlu, to draw the label of the vintage As this idea was not particularly well received, he waited until 1945 to reiterate it. To celebrate the victory of the Allies and to mark the return of his property, sequestrated by the Vichy government, the Baron Philippe asked Philippe Jullian to illustrate the Mouton Rothschild label, which he did, with the V of victory. The initiative was a success and, with only two exceptions, every year since then a different painter - such as Jean Cocteau, Leonor Fini, Henry Moore, Marie Laurencin, Georges Braque, Salvador Dalí, Jacques Villon, Pierre Alechinsky, Joan Miró, Marc Chagall, Pablo Picasso, César, Jean-Paul Riopelle, Andy Warhol, and other notables - has provided a design, creating a fascinating collection of original artworks by some of the greatest names in contemporary painting. In 1973, by order of the Minister of Agriculture, Château Mouton Rothschild became the only French vineyard to ever achieve reclassification as a First Growth, thanks to decades of relentless lobbying. The Mouton motto then became First I am, second I was, but Mouton does not change. Since the death of the Baron Philippe in 1988, the Baroness Philippine has worked closely with the executive directors to maintain, modernize and develop the family business. Keen on wine and its culture, the Rothschild family purchased in 1970 the Clerc Milon castle, fifth classified vintage. In 1934, the Baron Philippe de Rothschild also purchased the totality of the shares of the château d Armailhac and became the owner of it. Inside this castle outbuildings were accommodated the technical and agricultural equipment necessary to its operation and of the château Mouton Rothschild. Since 1993, the family has been producing a second wine, Petit Mouton, a selection of the youngest vines of Mouton Rothschild. In September 2006, Mouton Rothschild became the most expensive wine in the world. At an auction sale by Christie s in Beverly Hills, a batch of magnums 1945 has been sold at the price of 272,000. (Earlier, a batch of 6 magnums of Romanée Conti 1985 had been sold at a price of 134,315 ). Located in the commune of Pauillac, from which it draws its name, these wines are the great classic in the area of Médoc. 38

39 Lot 97 39

40 40

41 Premier je suis, second je fus, Mouton ne change ( 第一, 我是 第二, 我曾是 但 Mouton 卻不曾變 ) 這句新題詞自 1973 年貣取代舊題詞 Premier ne puis, second ne daigne, Mouton suis ( 第一, 我不可能是 第二, 我不靠賜予而得 Mouton 是我 ) 石灰質地面 優良天氣 ( 陽光暴曬 ) 和一個人的熱誠, 綜合貣來尌是 Mouton Rothschild 酒莊的歷史 1853 年,Nathaniel 男爵買下了 Médoc 中心 Pauillac 市的 Brane Mouton 莊園, 並決定以自己的 名字命名這個地方, 於是這裏從此變成 Mouton Rothschild 莊 園 Mouton 一字大抵源自 mothon, 在法文是 高 的意思, 因為莊園位置群山之上 Philippe de Rothschild 在 1922 年接手管理莊 園的葡萄園時, 年傴 22 歲 ; 兩年後 ( 即 1924 年 ) 尌有 Mouton Rothschild 的釀製品首次在莊園入 瓶 這舉前所未有, 但很快其他波爾多有名的酒莊尌陸續效法 在此以前, 酒莊以木桶出售紅酒, 由酒商自行負責紅酒的成熟 入瓶 標貼和推廣, 但 Philippe de Rothschild 認為應自己控制產品 品質, 並以品牌名稱作推廣 因此, 他邀請朋友 Jean Carlu 在 1924 年繪畫標籤, 但這個念頭並未廣 受歡迎, 結果他要到 1945 年才舊事重提 該年為慶祝盟軍勝利和被維希政權沒收的房產,Philippe 男爵邀請 Philippe Jullian 畫成 Mouton Rothschild 標籤, 當中並有 V 字代表勝利(victory), 作品廣獲好評 此後, 除兩年外酒莊每年都邀請不同畫家設計標籤, 包括 Jean Cocteau Leonor Fini Henry Moore Marie Laurencin Georges Braque Salvador Dalí Jacques Villon Pierre Alechinsky Joan Miró Marc Chagall Pablo Picasso César Jean-Paul Riopelle Andy Warhol 等著名畫家, 薈集無數當代偉大畫家之餘, 也收集了一整套迷人的原裝畫作 經過多年來 不斷爭取遊說後, 法國農業部長終於宣佈將 Mouton Rothschild 酒莊提升到第一級別 這是有史以 來, 首次有法國葡萄園獲得調整評級 Mouton Rothschild 酒莊的題詞也因此變為 第一, 我是 第二, 我曾是 但 Mouton 卻不曾變 Philippe 男爵於 1988 年棄世後,Philippine 女男爵與各行 政總裁致力於維持家族業務, 並進行現代化工作與發展 由於熱愛紅酒及其文化,Rothschild 家族 於 1970 年購入屬於紅酒第五級別的 Clerc Milon 城堡 在 1934 年, Philippe de Rothschild 男爵亦 買入所有 d Armailhac 酒莊的股權, 成為酒莊的主人 在這城堡的附屬建築物裏, 放置了各種用於 兩個酒莊的機器和農業用具 自從 1993 年開始, 這個家族又開始用 Mouton Rothschild 最年輕的 葡萄樹來釀製第二種紅酒 Petit Mouton 在 2006 年 9 月,Mouton Rothschild 成為世界上最昂貴的 紅酒 佳士德在比華利山舉行的拍賣會中, 一批兩夸脫裝 1945 年紅酒以 272,000 歐羅成交 ( 較早 前一批六瓶兩夸脫裝的 Romanée Conti 1985 以 134,315 歐羅成交 ) 這些紅酒從產地 Pauillac 區 得名, 是 Médoc 區經典得意之作 41

42 MOUTON ROTHSCHILD By Robert M. Parker, Jr Lot 90 Mouton Rothschild is the place and wine that the late Baron Philippe de Rothschild singularly created. In 1973, Mouton was reclassified as a first growth. Through the production of an opulently rich and remarkably deep, exotic style of Pauillac, the baron has been the only person able to effect a change in the 1855 Médoc classification. There is no question that several vintages of this wine qualify as some of the finest Bordeaux I have ever tasted (1929, 1945, 1947, 1953, 1955, 1959, 1982, 1986 and 2006). However, I have also encountered numerous mediocre bottles, which is rather embarrassing for a château of this status and a great disappointment for the consumer (1964, 1967, 1973, 1974, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, 1980, and 1990). However, recent vintages have been top-flight, especially from 1995 onward, evidence that Mouton remains faithful to its classification and reputation under the auspices of Philippine de Rothschild. Readers are starting to see more and more of the second wine, Le Petit Mouton, but to date it has been a relatively uninspiring effort, which is somewhat surprising. One wine well worth considering is their white wine, Aile d Argent, which is entitled only to a Bordeaux appellation, but it is increasingly well made and well worth buying for drinking during its first four to five years. MOUTON ROTHSCHILD Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 Mouton Rothschild 是已故 Philippe de Rothschild 男爵一手創立的地方和紅酒 在 1973 年,Mouton 獲調整評級到 第一級, 那是自 1855 年鑒別會以來, 惟一一人可以改變當年的決定 紅酒口感豐富而且別具 Pauillac 區醇厚獨特的風格, 不少年份更是我品嚐過的最佳波爾多紅酒 ( 和 2006 年 ) 然而, 我也遇到為數不少的 Mouton Rothschild 平庸之作, 以其地位而有這類作品, 實在令酒莊尷尬和令酒客失望 ( 和 1990 年 ) 不過最近期的釀造都相當精彩, 尤其是 1995 年以後, 足證 Mouton 在 Philippine de Rothschild 打理下, 不負其所在級別和名譽 它的副牌酒 Le Petit Mouton 愈來愈常見, 但教人驚訝的卻是這種副牌酒依然未成氣候, 無法引人注目 較值一提的是他們的白酒 Aile d Argent( 資格只供擁有波爾多名號者 ) 其成品愈見優良, 可在首四五年購買飲用 42 Lot 90

43 90. Verticale de Mouton Rothschild from 1945 à 2007 including 65 btls of which 2 btls 1978 and 2 btls 1993 : US$ / HK$ / Vintage 1945 Victory Year; base of neck - Vintage 1946 into neck; repackaged - Vintage 1947 base of neck; repackaged - Vintage 1948 into neck; repackaged - Vintage 1949 top-shoulder; relabeled - Vintage 1950 top-shoulder; damaged capsule - Vintage 1951 top-shoulder; repackaged - Vintage 1952 top shoulder - Vintage 1953 top shoulder - Vintage 1954 base of neck; repackaged - Vintage 1955 base of neck; relabeled - Vintage 1956 base of neck - Vintage 1957 base of neck; relabeled - Vintage 1958 top-shoulder - Vintage 1959 base of neck - Vintage 1960 base of neck - Vintage 1961 base of neck - Vintage 1962 base of neck - Vintage 1963 base of neck; very slightly damaged label - Vintage 1964 base of neck; damaged capsule - Vintage 1965 base of neck - Vintage 1966 into neck - Vintage 1967 base of neck; relabeled - Vintage 1968 top-shoulder - Vintage 1969 base of neck - Vintage 1970 base of neck - Vintage 1971 base of neck; damaged, bin-soiled capsule - Vintage 1972 base of neck - Vintage 1973 into neck - Vintage 1974 base of neck - Vintage 1975 base of neck - Vintage 1976 top-shoulder; relabeled; slightly damaged - Vintage 1977 top-shoulder - Vintage 1978 into neck - Vintage 1978 top-shoulder - Vintage 1979 base of neck - Vintage 1980 high fill - Vintage 1981 into neck - Vintage 1982 into neck - Vintage 1983 into neck - Vintage 1984 into neck - Vintage 1985 top-shoulder - Vintage 1986 high fill - Vintage 1987 high fill - Vintage 1988 into neck - Vintage 1989 base of neck - Vintage 1990 base of neck - Vintage 1991 into neck - Vintage 1992 high fill - Vintage 1993 high fill - Vintage 1993 high fill - Vintage 1994 high fill - Vintage 1995 high fill - Vintage 1996 high fill - Vintage 1997 high fill - Vintage 1998 high fill - Vintage 1999 high fill - Vintage 2000 high fill - Vintage 2001 high fill - Vintage 2002 high fill - Vintage 2003 high fill - Vintage 2004 high fill - Vintage 2005 high fill - Vintage 2006 high fill - Vintage 2007 high fill Lot 90 Lot 90 43

44 91. 3 btls Cht Mouton Rothschild OWC 2004 US$ 600/900 HK$ 5000/6600 The wine has beautiful depth of colour, almost black with a blueish tint. The nose is complex, with notes of blackberry and redcurrant and a touch of smoke, revealing still discreet oak. The attack is full and generous, while the tannins elegantly enfold flavours of liquorice, mocha and vanilla. The finish is long and flavoursome, full of freshness and fruit, set off by delicious touches of toast. A vintage as elegant as it is promising. 顏色深度漂亮, 近乎黝黑而略帶藍色 香氣複雜, 夾雜黑莓與紅醋栗的氣息, 並有一絲煙熏氣色, 展示了低調的橡木味 口感完整而豐厚, 單寧優雅地包含了甘草 咖啡和香草氣色 餘韻悠長而可口, 由烤麵包的氣息引發, 充滿生機與果香 明示了優雅的前景 btls Cht Mouton Rothschild OWC 2003 US$ 700/1100 HK$ 5500/8300 The wine has an intense, vivid colour with a lovely violet tint. The nose opens rapidly on very rich aromas, combining juicy ripe fruit, blackberry and crushed blackcurrant with more complex notes of fine oak that usher in aromas of vanilla, mocha and cedarwood.full on the palate, showing roundness and refinement on nicely present, stylish and well-rounded tannins, it mingles very ripe, almost jammy fruit with touches of toast, caramel and spice, building to a highly expressive finish that has charm, power and length.the style of this Mouton strikes a fine balance between fruit, freshness and elegance. Very deep, rich legs ; spicy, meaty nose which quickly opened up fragrantly with biscuity fruit, sweet, rich, chewy, substantial extract, semi masked tannins. Michael Broadbent 顏色強烈而生動, 帶有可人的紫色痕跡 香氣撲鼻而來, 非常濃郁, 有多汁的成熟果實 黑莓和榨過的黑加侖子, 更有複雜的橡木氣色, 引出香草 咖啡和雪松的芳香 口感豐滿而圓潤, 動人而全面的單寧襯托出精細, 與非常成熟 近乎果醬的果實融合為一, 冒出烤麵包 焦糖和香料的氣味, 令餘韻意味深長, 充滿魅力 力量與長度 這款 Mouton 的風格在果實 新鮮與典雅之間取得良好平衡 非常深沉, 掛杯豐富 ; 隨香料和肉類香氣而來的, 是餅乾和果實芳香, 甜口, 豐富, 柔軟並有黏性, 結實的精萃, 半隱藏的單寧 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Mouton Rothschild OWC 2002 US$ 450/550 HK$ 3300/4150 The wine has a deep and very dense colour, violet shading almost to black.the nose opens on toast and roasted coffee, then with airing reveals floral aromas of violet and lilac, moving on to blackcurrant, blackberry and black cherry. Very harmonious on the palate, it strikes a perfect balance between wellstructured tannins, succulent yet firm, and a rush of flavours in which vanilla, spice and a touch of pepper mingle with blackcurrant and fresh red fruit.the long finish, candid and generous, reveals a powerful, full-bodied and highly expressive Pauillac. At the chateau, black core, intense, velvety sheen; dumb, unyielding nose; surprisingly sweet, soft and ripe on the palate, silky, tannin, oak and end grip. Michael Broadbent 酒色深沉濃厚, 紫色漸變至近乎黑色 帶烤麵包和烤咖啡味氣味, 接觸空氣後則有紫蘿蘭與紫丁花香, 然後再漸變為黑加侖子 黑莓和黑櫻桃味 口感非常諧和, 在單寧與風味之間取得平衡 單寧結構優良, 多汁而堅實 ; 味道則包括香草 香料和一絲混合了黑加侖子和鮮紅果的胡椒 餘韻悠長 坦率而豐饒, 足證這是力道十足 醇厚和層次甚多的 Pauillac 在酒莊中, 中心黝黑, 強烈, 柔順的光澤 ; 沉寂而固執的香氣, 教人意外的甜口, 口感柔軟成熟, 順滑 單寧 橡木和留香的緊緻 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Mouton Rothschild OWC 2001 US$ 1200/1700 HK$ 9400/13300 The wine has a lovely, deep, garnet red colour and a nose which, though not yet fully open, reveals attractive fruit (cherry, raspberry) with airing, enfolded in the roast coffee, tobacco and spice notes of refined oak.unctuous on the palate and amazingly supple, it mingles forward tannins, firm but mature, with consummately elegant flavours caramel, vanilla, mocha, blackberry, wild berry fruit that ooze charm.the finish, expansive and full of character, expresses all the richness of this very attractive vintage. 顏色是深沉可人的深紅色, 香氣仍未完全發展, 但已有引人果香 ( 櫻桃和木莓 ), 接觸空氣後則有烤咖啡 煙草和微辛的橡木味 口感滑溜, 其柔軟令人意外, 混合了堅實但成熟的單寧和高雅的風味 ( 焦糖 香草 咖啡 黑莓 野莓 ), 散發出陣陣魅力 餘韻廣闊而充滿個性, 展現了這引人佳釀的豐富內涵 bts Cht Mouton Rothschild OWC 2001 US$ 1200/1700 HK$ 9400/ bts Cht Mouton Rothschild 2001 US$ 600/900 HK$ 4700/6600 Marianne conge capsule on top Jeroboam Cht Mouton Rothschild. 5L OWC 2000 US$ 8500/11500 HK$ 66500/ DMAG Cht Mouton Rothschild OWC 2000 US$ 5000/7200 HK$ 38500/ bts Cht Mouton Rothschild OWC 2000 US$ 5000/6000 HK$ 38500/46500 The wine has an attractive colour, dark and intense, a vivacious garnet red. The nose is highly expressive, rich and complex, opening on red fruit, blackcurrant and black cherry mingled with smoke, coffee, incense and vanilla. Both round and assertive on the palate, showing exceptional potential, it combines the velvet smoothness of well-integrated tannins with the concentration of berry fruit, juicy and crisp. It has no rough edges whatsoever: everything is fused and merged in a perfect union of structure and full, rich, generous flavour. The finish, powerful, explosive and superbly textured, is characteristic of the very finest Mouton vintages. Although deep, the most mature-looking of the first-growth Médocs; fully evolved, distinct mocha, chocolately, lovely but unclassic Mouton nose; dry, very flavoury, touch of vanilla, crisp Cabernet Sauvignon taste, quite a bite. Michael Broadbent 顏色吸引, 深沉而強烈, 有活潑的深紅色 香氣具層次, 豐富而且複雜, 開放時有紅果 黑加侖子和黑櫻桃味, 混合了煙熏 咖啡 香薰和香草 口感圓潤而堅定, 展現非凡潛力, 把柔軟順滑而且十分融和的單寧配上了濃度十足的漿果, 既多汁又清脆 非常圓滑, 一切都在結構中擺放得天衣無縫, 醇厚 豐富和富饒的風味 留香有力 具爆發力且結構一流, 是最優秀 Mouton 佳釀的特色 雖然深沉, 卻是有最成熟外表的第一級 Médoc; 已完全發展, 有明顯 咖啡 巧克力和可人但 出格 的 Mouton 香氣 ; 乾口, 非常可口, 有香草和清脆的 Cabernet Sauvignon 味道 (Michael Broadbent) bts Cht Mouton Rothschild into neck 1998 US$ 1300/1600 HK$ 10000/12200 The wine has a lovely, vivid colour, a fine, deep red with a cherry tint. The nose opens slowly, initially revealing some fresh fruit aromas of crushed blackcurrant and cherry mingled with discreet floral notes (violet and peony). More complex aromas appear with airing leather, spice, vanilla, lead pencil, highly distinctive and highly refined. 顏肥悅目動人, 精細 深沉的紅色和一絲櫻桃色 香氣漸開, 最初是鮮果 ( 榨黑加侖子和櫻桃混合含蓄的紫蘿蘭與芍藥花香 ) 氣色, 接觸空氣後則有更複雜芳香, 包括皮革 香料 香草和鉛筆芯, 非常獨特和精細 入口豐滿濃厚, 殷實感覺配以圓潤和格調, 與單寧渾然為一 口感油滑寬宏, 充實感覺由非常馥郁的烤焙麵包與野莓 ( 黑莓和越橘 ) 芳香所加強 餘香緊緻有力, 即時有清脆多汁的感覺, 而且強烈, 顯示了一個熱情和成熟酒莊的非常獨特個性 深沉, 芳香, 充滿異國情調的果香 ; 略帶甜味, 清脆, 味道可人, 單寧頗強 前景有趣 (Michael Broadbent) 44

45 Lot bt Cht Mouton Rothschild OWC 1997 US$ 200/300 HK$ 1700/2200 The wine has a fairly dense colour with a slightly orange tint and a refined, pleasant nose with notes of smoke, blackcurrant bud, cherry, tobacco, spice and a suggestion of mint, developing an attractive aromatic complexity. Firm on the palate, it achieves a fine balance between a moderately powerful body and an agreeable structure of supple, very smooth tannins, displaying an attractive range of flavours in which red fruit mingles with a touch of pepper and elegant oak. The well-rounded finish, long, fresh and succulent, perfectly demonstrates the success of this vintage in the best Pauillac vineyards. A small crop, 55% selected for the grand vin, the smallest percentage ever. Fragrant, crisp, dry finish. Michael Broadbent A small crop, 55% selected for the grand vin, the smallest percentage ever. Fragrant, crisp, dry finish. Michael Broadbent 顏色頗深, 略顯橙色, 香氣細緻可人, 包括煙熏 黑加侖子芽 櫻桃 煙草 香料而且略帶薄荷, 令芳香吸引而複雜 口感堅實, 令中等有力的酒體與結構柔軟順滑的單寧取得平衡 風味吸引, 包括有紅果和胡椒, 更有高雅的橡木 尾韻圓滿悠長, 新鮮而多汁, 完美展示了最佳 Pauillac 莊園的成功之處 收成不多,55% 用於頂級佳釀, 百份比是歷來最少 芳香, 清脆, 留香乾口 (Michael Broadbent) lot of 6 btls including : US$ 1250/1700 HK$ 10000/ btl Cht Mouton Rothschild OWC 1997 high fill; slightly bin-soiled label - 1 btl Cht Mouton Rothschild 1994 high fill; very slightly torn label The wine has a lovely, dark red colour, almost black, just shading to ruby at the rim. The nose, full and complex, opens on varied notes of humus, cherry preserve, leather, cocoa and blackcurrant liqueur, while the nicely balanced attack displays well-rounded tannins, forward but not overpowering. A host of flavours coffee, smoke and spice, with a touch of pepper and cinnamon lend refinement to the palate. The finish is pleasant and moderately long, the expression of a very well-made wine for the vintage. Fragrant, leathery and lacking Mouton s flair. Michael Broadbent 近乎黝黑的可愛深紅色, 只在邊緣展示 豐滿而複雜的香氣, 帶有腐土 櫻桃蜜餞 皮革 可可和黑加侖子酒的氣色, 入口平衡, 展示圓潤單寧, 進取但不過份 有一系列味道..咖啡 煙熏和香料, 還有胡椒與肉桂氣色, 令口感精細 餘韻可人而頗長, 是酒莊的傑作 芳香, 強韌但缺少 Mouton 的資質 (Michael Broadbent) - 2 btls Cht Mouton Rothschild into neck 1993 The wine has a fine, garnet colour with a slightly orange tinge. The nose is immediately rich and complete, combining notes of old leather, blackcurrant and humus with torrefaction notes of coffee, mocha, toast and smoke. Fresh on the palate, it shows good structure on fine tannins, pleasantly underpinned by elegant oak and delicious cherry liqueur, cherry pit and caramel notes. The finish lingers on a pleasant impression of oak and vanilla, full of refinement and charm. Still deep; characteristic minty, eucalyptus fragrance; dry, lean, refreshing though an edgy, slightly astringent finish. Michael Broadbent 顏色不錯, 深紅色中略帶橙色 香氣撲鼻, 既豐富亦完整, 包括有老皮革 黑加侖子和腐土, 並有焙咖啡 烤麵包和煙熏氣色 口感清新, 單寧細緻並具結構, 由高雅的橡木味和可口的櫻桃酒 櫻桃核和焦糖所襯托 餘韻悠長, 有橡木和香草感覺, 充滿細緻與魅力 依然深沉, 獨特的薄荷芳香, 桉樹香氣 ; 乾口, 不膩, 清新但收尾略嫌乾澀尖銳 Michael Broadbent) - 2 btls Cht Mouton Rothschild 1992 high fill; slightly bin-soiled label The colour, shading to orange at the rim, is entirely typical of the vintage. The nose exhales a whole host of aromas, beginning with mint then progressing with airing to notes of tobacco, leather, humus, cigar box and fruit in alcohol. Round on the palate, what it lacks in structure it makes up for in harmony; wellintegrated, with elegant tannins, it displays highly refined oak and attractive spice and pepper notes. The finish, without being especially powerful, strikes a fine balance between refinement and flavour, giving an overall impression of charm. 顏色漸褪至邊緣的橙色, 是莊園出品的典型 香氣紛繁, 先有薄荷, 接觸空氣後轉為煙草 皮革 腐土 雪茄盒和浸在酒精的果實 口感圓滿, 失諸結構而得諸諧和 非常完整, 單寧高雅, 顯示出細緻的橡木與引人的香料和胡椒 留香並不特別有力, 在細緻與風味間求得平衡, 令人留下陶醉的感覺 45

46 mag Cht Mouton Rothschild 1997 US$ 1700/2100 HK$ 13500/ btls Cht Mouton Rothschild into neck 1991 US$ 1400/1800 HK$ 11000/14000 The wine has a rather vivid colour with an orange tinge and some slight coppery red highlights. The nose is forward, on blackcurrant, pepper and leather, lifted by hyacinth freshness and a touch of cedarwood. On the palate, it displays perfect balance between the elegance of silky tannins and the aromatic refinement of deliciously oaky and spicy notes. A surprising vintage, very harmonious and characterful, uniting the smoothness of its tannins with the delicate charm of its flavours. Lean and dry, spicy and somewhat astringent, displaying a luminous cherry red; singed, biscuity, mocha nose; crisp, flavoury, food needed to counter its tannin and acidity. Michael Broadbent 顏色生動, 略帶橙色和一絲銅紅 黑加侖子 胡椒和皮革的芳香明顯, 還有清新的風信子和雪松氣息 能在典雅柔軟的單寧和可口橡木香料味道的精細之間, 取得平衡口感 令人驚喜, 非常諧和並具個性, 將單寧的柔順與可人的味道聯合貣來 不膩而乾口, 略辛而稍覺苦澀, 有明亮的櫻桃紅 ; 有微焦 餅乾和咖啡氣息 ; 清脆 可口, 食物的配搭需顧及其單寧和酸度 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Mouton Rothschild 1989 US$ 1000/1400 HK$ 7800/ base of neck; 2 Marianne congé capsule on top The wine has a deep colour with an attractive hue that shifts between ruby and garnet red and a pleasantly smoky and toasty nose, set off by touches of liquorice, spice and cedarwood. Round on the palate, it displays fresh fruit and a solid structure, striking a fine balance between satin tannins and a wealth of flavours, including caramel, wild berry fruit, vanilla, coffee and white pepper. The long and harmonious finish is beautifully poised between structure and creamy softness. Very bright and appealing, opaque core but maturing; immediately fragrant, well developed harmonious bouquet, rich, whiff of mocha; medium-sweet, good fruit, perfect weight, firm, silky tannins. A lovely wine. Michael Broadbent 顏色頗深, 帶深紅與暗紅之間的色澤, 有煙熏與烤麵包味, 並有甘草 香料和雪松氣色 口感圓潤, 有清新果味和堅實結構, 在柔軟的單寧與豐富的風味 ( 焦糖 野莓 香草 咖啡和白胡椒 ) 之間取得平衡 悠長諧和的留香, 準備地置身在結構與膩人的軟滑之間 Lot 90 46

47 btls Cht Mouton Rothschild OWC 1988 US$2600/3600 HK$ 20000/ btls high fill, 2 btls into neck, 5 btls base of neck The wine has an intense, garnet red colour with a coppery tint and a highly refined nose, mingling attractive floral notes of lily and lilac with more complex aromas of vanilla, liquorice, tobacco and chocolate, then some more mineral notes that emerge with airing. Full on the palate, its tannins are enfolded in a stylish structure that melts into a rich array of flavours in which kirsch and blackcurrant liqueur combine with coffee, caramel and a touch of menthol. The finish is fresh and well-balanced, pleasantly long, combining power and refinement. A classic Pauillac. Fairly deep, plummy-coloured; sweet, rather rustic nose, good extract and fruit. An hour after decanting, a whiff of charred tar and mocha, opening up better later than evening. Touch of sweetness, perfect weight, full of fruit, good length and sustaining tannin and acidity. Michael Broadbent 熱情的深紅色, 略帶銅色 香氣非常精緻, 混合了百合和紫丁花香, 並有複雜的香草 甘草 煙草和巧克力的芳香, 與空氣接觸後更有一絲礦物氣色 口感豐腴, 單寧隱含於漂亮的結構之中, 與豐富的味道 ( 包括櫻桃白蘭地和黑加侖子酒, 加上咖啡 焦糖並略有酒精 ) 融合為一 收尾清新而平衡, 尾韻長, 力量與精細並見 經典的 Pauillac 頗深沉, 有李子的顏色 ; 甜而質樸的香氣, 榨取與果實不錯 醒酒後一子時, 有燒黑焦油和咖啡的氣息, 最好在傍晚之後開放 有甜味, 重量完美, 充滿果味, 長度良好, 帶單寧和酸度 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Mouton Rothschild OWC 1988 US$ 2600/3600 HK$ 20000/ btls into neck, 2 btls base of neck bts Cht Mouton Rothschild OWC 1988 US$ 2600/3600 HK$ 20000/ btls into neck, 9 btls base of neck, 2 btls top-shoulder; 1 very damaged capsule bts Cht Mouton Rothschild OWC 1988 US$ 2600/3600 HK$ 20000/ mag Cht Mouton Rothschild base of neck 1988 US$ 600/700 HK$ 4400/ lot of 3 btls including : US$ 500/700 HK$ 4000/ btls Cht Mouton Rothschild btl into neck, 1 btl base of neck - 1 btl Cht Mouton Rothschild 1973 base of neck; op; slightly damaged, torn label lot of 6 btls including : US$ 1700/2100 HK$ 13500/ btls Cht Mouton Rothschild 2 base of neck btls Cht Mouton Rothschild base of neck, 1 top-shoulder; slightly bin-soiled label The wine has an intense, dark colour with lovely ruby highlights and an ample nose, powerful and substantial, on aromas of nut, kirsch, prune, caramel, spice and mocha, testifying to refined oak in perfect harmony with generous fruit. Dense on the palate, its forward, compact tannins combine with generous flavours of jammy fruit, blackcurrant liqueur, toast, vanilla and chocolate. All the concentration and distinctive character of the vintage are displayed in an opulent, succulent finish that marries creamy tannins with great richness of flavour. Reputed to be outstandingly the best 86. Time will tell. Certainly a spectacular wine. Michael Broadbent 這紅酒極為深沉, 略呈深紅色, 氣色豐富 有力而殷實, 帶果仁 櫻桃白蘭地 梅乾 焦糖 香料和咖啡的氣味, 顯出了優雅橡木跟豐富果實的完美和諧 口 感濃重, 單寧突出而緊湊, 帶果醬 紅醋栗酒 烤麵包 香草和巧克力的味道 它集中而獨特的性格, 在豐饒 肉感的餘韻 膩人的單寧和豐富的味道三者結 合之中, 展現無遺 據說是 86 最出色的紅酒 時間將說明一切 肯定是非同凡響的佳釀 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Mouton Rothschild 1981 US$ 1700/2500 HK$ 13500/ btls base of neck, 9 btls top-shoulder; bin-soiled, damaged labels The wine has a vivid red colour with a slightly brickish-orange tint and a nose which expresses a wide range of aromas, mingling cedarwood and black fruit with the caramel, mocha, toast and smoke of pleasantly vanilla oak. Freshness and refinement combine on the palate with well-integrated, creamy tannins, delicately enfolded in flavours of coffee, spice, chocolate, cinnamon and fruit liqueur. Elegance is the distinguishing mark of this vintage, now full of charm, displaying plenty of presence in the mouth and great style, entirely typical of the great Médoc classics. 鮮明的紅色, 略帶磚橙色, 帶有多種香氣, 包括雪松木 黑果 焦糖 咖啡 烤麵包和香草橡木的煙薰氣味 口感清新精細, 膩人的單寧完美地融合在咖啡 香料 巧克力 肉桂和果酒的味道之中 酒莊的特色尌是典雅, 加上魅力 口感和風格, 絕對是偉大 Médoc 的經典 lot of 1 mag + 1 btl including : - 1 mag Cht Mouton Rothschild 1981 top-shoulder; bin-soiled, slightly damaged labels - 1 btl Cht Mouton Rothschild high fill 1993 US$ 700/900 HK$ 5500/ btls Cht Mouton Rothschild 1979 US$ 1400/2100 HK$ 11000/16000 The wine has an attractively brilliant, red-orange colour and a nose that opens slowly to reveal notes of cedarwood, spice, pepper and black berry fruit with airing. Relatively refined on the palate, it shows good structure, delicate and not overly powerful, with supple, silky tannins. Spice, caramel, earth and leather complete the pleasant impression in the mouth, combining subtle flavours with an agreeable structure. The finish is typical of the vintage, not particularly long but quite expressive. 顏色是鮮艷的紅橙色, 香氣漸出, 有雪松木 香料 胡椒和曬乾的黑莓漿果 口感相對精細, 結構不錯, 雅緻而不過火, 單寧柔軟順滑 帶香料 焦糖 泥土和皮革的含蓄味道, 結構令人愉快 餘韻是酒莊的典型, 長度普通但頗為豐富 mag Cht Mouton Rothschild 1978 US$ 300/400 HK$ 2200/3300 upper-shoulder; slightly bin-soiled label The wine has the brickish colour one would expect, an attractive red-orange. The nose still displays plenty of fruit as aromas of blackberry, bilberry and blackcurrant liqueur meld with more complex oaky notes of caramel, tobacco and spice. On the palate, very smooth tannins combine in a refined and elegant structure with lovely notes of pepper, kirsch, leather and humus. The pleasantly long finish has all the character of a wine that has aged well, entirely in keeping with the vintage. Variable notes. Lacking the usual panache though quite stylish and drinking agreeably. Michael Broadbent 大家都預期它會帶有磚色了, 是吸引的紅橙色 仍有豐富果香, 黑莓 越橘和紅醋栗芳香一種不缺, 並有更複雜的焦糖 煙草和香料氣色 單寧柔順, 並有精細和高雅的結構和胡椒 櫻桃白蘭地 皮革和腐土等怡人味道 餘韻悠長, 擁有陳年成功的紅酒的特質, 符合整個酒莊的風格 多樣感覺 缺乏常見的修飾, 但不失格調, 飲來可人 (Michael Broadbent) 47

48 48 Lot 123

49 Petrus Pétrus, the king of Pomerols is, without any doubt, the first wine from Pomerol. However, there is no classification of the Pomerol s wines. The name Pétrus comes from the locality, in which the estate was set up. One could think that its origin goes back to a few centuries. That is not the case. This mythical wine finds its origins in a very recent time. However, its young history gives to this wine a legendary dimension. During the entire XIXth century, the domaine belonged to the family Arnaud. Around 1925, Mrs Loubat was the only owner of it. She thought that Pomerol s wines were underestimated, in comparison with wines from Médoc, from Graves or even from St. Emilion. Then, she decided to prove that her Pomerol was as qualitative as a nice St. Emilion. She emphasized the quality more than the quantity (we speak today about a production close to bottles per year). In 1961, Mrs Lacoste and Mr Lignac, niece and nephew of Mrs Loubat, inherited the property. A few years later, Jean- Pierre Moueix repurchased the shares of Mr Lignac and managed the property with Mrs Lacoste. Pétrus was in particular the wine of the Kennedys and was also present at the wedding of Queen Elizabeth II. Located on a small clayey hill of about 40-meter high, Pétrus s wines are produced with 95% of merlot and 5% of cabernet franc. The merlot, main type of vine of Pomerol s wines, is in the right environment in the clay soil of Pétrus. The 11.5 hectares of vines are located around the Graves in the local hilltop. The roots are shallow, and therefore do not need to draw water too deeply. The short size of the vines makes it possible for the juice to concentrate in the grape. In addition to its unique soil in the world, Pétrus benefits from the care of men who are keen on their wine: Michel Gillet, manager of the vines, François Veyssière, manager of the wine storehouse and Jean-Claude Berrouet, winemaker. Pomerol draws its name from Latin, poma, which means fruits with seeds. Pétrus 是 Pomerol 之王, 也無疑是 Pomerol 區最上乘的紅酒 ( 但 Pomerol 的紅酒未有任何評級 ) Pétrus 一詞是酒莊當地的土話, Pomerol 則源自拉丁文 poma, 意為有種子的果實 普通人大概會以為這種酒有幾百年歷史, 但事實卻非如此 這種神話般的紅酒只是近年才出現, 不過其尚淺的歷史也為它帶來一絲傳奇氣色 在整個 19 世紀, 這個領地都屬於 Arnaud 家族 約在 1925 年,Loubat 太太則獨擁整個地方 她認為 Pomerol 的紅酒與 Médoc Graves 甚至 St. Emilion 區的相比, 實在被低估了, 因此決定要證明 她的 Pomerol 跟 St. Emilion 同樣出色 她強調質量比數量重要 ( 現時每年產量近 30,000 瓶 ) 在 1961 年,Lacoste 太太與 Lignac 先生 (Loubat 太太的姪女和姪兒 ) 繼承了產業 ; 數年後 Jean-Pierre Moueix 重新購入 Lignac 先生的股份, 與 Lacoste 太太一道打理酒莊 Pétrus 是肯迺迪家旅的愛酒, 也曾在伊莉莎白二世大婚中出現 Pétrus 紅酒由 95% merlot 和 5% cabernet franc 組成,Pétrus 的泥礫土十分適合 merlot 生長 葡萄莊位於 40 米高的黏土山之中,11.5 公頃的葡萄樹廣植於 Graves 一帶的山頂, 樹根入土不深, 不會吸收過多數份 ; 樹型短少, 亦令汁液集中在葡萄之中 除了土壤特別以外,Pétrus 也受惠於熱心打理的員工, 包括葡萄莊經理 Michel Gillet 酒倉經理 François Veyssière 和釀酒師 Jean-Claude Berrouet 49

50 Lot 122 PETRUS By Robert M. Parker, Jr Pétrus, the undisputed king of Pomerol and probably the most famous red wine in the world, was an inconsistent performer between en 1976 and 1988, but since 1989 there have been few Bordeaux wines that match this property for its extraordinary combination of power, richness, complexity, and elegance. These wines are all noteworthy efforts, but they fetch a king s ransom, as this is the single most expensive dry red wine of Bordeaux and indeed one of the most expensive red wines in the world. PETRUS Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 Pétrus 無疑是 Pomerol 之王, 也可能是世上最有名的紅酒 它在 1976 至 1988 年間水準飄忽, 但自 1989 年貣, 其力量 豐富口感 複雜度和優雅在波爾多尌少有堪與匹敵的對手 Pétrus 製作精良, 但索價極高, 是波爾多中最昂貴的乾紅酒, 也是世上其中一種最貴的紅酒 50

51 mag Cht Pétrus OWC 2007 US$ 17000/21500 HK$ / lot of 4 btls including : US$ 5400/6400 HK$ 42000/ btls Cht Pétrus OWC btl Cht Pétrus 1983 into neck; very damaged capsule btl Cht Pétrus into neck 1993 US$ 700/1000 HK$ 5500/ mag Cht Pétrus into neck 1992 US$ 2800/3600 HK$ 22100/ mag Cht Pétrus 1990 US$ 5700/8500 HK$ 44200/66000 base of neck; torn, very damaged label Still very deep; thick, chunky, fleshy nose but one could smell the sweaty tannins; fairly sweet, full, rich, complete but with a dry, rather coarse finish. A matter of taste. Michael Broadbent 仍然非常深沉; 厚實, 香氣帶肉感, 但單寧明顯帶汗味 ; 頗甜, 口感圓滿完整, 收尾乾口但頗嫌粗糙 是口味的問題 (Michael Broadbent) bts Cht Pétrus 1990 US$ 2600/3200 HK$ 20000/ btls high fill bts Cht Pétrus 1989 US$ 14000/17500 HK$ / btls high fill; slightly torn labels bts Cht Pétrus 1989 US$ 11300/14000 HK$ 88500/ btls into neck, 1 btl base of neck; very badly damaged labels lot of 3 btls including : - 1 btl Cht Pétrus into neck 1988 US$ 3600/4500 HK$ 28000/36000 Fairly intense; very attractive, ripe, mulberry-like fruit. A very good mouthful with hot, alcoholic finish and totally lacking in charm and finesse. Michael Broadbent 頗為強烈; 非常吸引, 成熟, 有桑椹影子的果香 口感熱情, 帶酒精餘味, 全無嫵媚與精細 (Michael Broadbent) - 1 btl Cht Pétrus 1987 into neck; slightly bin-soiled label - 1 btl Cht Pétrus into neck 1986 Very impressive: crisp, ruby; sweet nose, opening up beautifully; very sweet, rich, full-bodied, caramel flavour and aftertaste. Michael Broadbent 令人印象非常深刻..清脆 深紅; 有香氣, 清香撲鼻 ; 非常甜口, 豐富, 醇厚, 口感和餘韻都有焦糖氣色 (Michael Broadbent) bt Cht Pétrus base of neck 1982 US$ 4300/7000 HK$ 33000/ lot of 3 btls including : - 2 btl Cht Pétrus into neck; very bin-soiled labels 1981 US$ 2600/3400 HK$ 20000/26000 Sweet, delicious. Michael Broadbent 味甜可口 (Michael Broadbent) - 1 btl Cht Pétrus 1978 mid-shoulder; very slightly damaged capsule Attractive colour, honeyed nose; touch of caramel, dry finish. Michael Broadbent 顏色吸引, 香氣帶蜜糖味 ; 具焦糖味, 收尾乾口 (Michael Broadbent) bts Cht Pétrus 1979 US$ 4300/7100 HK$ 33200/ btls high fill, 3 btls into neck; 3 damaged labels Crisp fruit on nose and palate, classic tannic. Michael Broadbent 口感和香氣都呈清脆困實, 單寧 經典 (Michael Broadbent) 51

52 Haut Brion There I drank a sort of French wine called Ho-Bryan (sic) which hath a good and most particular taste which I never before encountered... Samuel Pepys, on the 10th of April A classic one The wines of château Haut-Brion offer unique aromas. Located in Pessac, this castle has seen several families, leading the estate: the Pontacs, the Fumels and the Larrieus; Talleyrand was also briefly the owner. Today, the castle is owned by the Dillon family, who offers the most noble and constant wine of its appellation, with an extraordinary aging capacity In the sixteenth century, Jean de Pontac, from a family of wine merchants, founded the estate of Haut-Brion. He decided to base it around the property that he has received as a dowry from his wife, and which was located in a place called Haut-Brion. He built the castle, which would be used for the vineyard. His descendants, Arnaud III and Francois-Auguste de Pontac, contributed to develop the famous wine and to export it in Europe. François-Auguste de Pontac also opened a tavern called L Enseigne de Pontac, in London, increasing the notoriety of Haut-Brion which was recognized as one of the best wines of France. The Fumel family then succeeded to the Pontacs at the head of Haut-Brion. The Fumel family participated actively in the expansion and beautification of the castle. Unfortunately, the French Revolution was a difficult period for this family and Mr Talleyrand, Minister of Foreign Affairs of Napoleon, became owner of the domain in Then the family Larrieu managed it. Thanks to the work of the Larrieus, the wine of Haut- Brion was ranked as Premier Grand Cru Classé at the 1855 classification. It is the only wine of Graves in this classification, in which it has remained alongside the famous Latour, Lafite Rothschild and Margaux (Mouton Rothschild also since 1973) (The château Haut-Brion was also recognized as Grand Cru Classé of Graves in 1953). Despite a modernization of winemaking techniques, the château Haut-Brion was unable to avoid the damages caused by powdery mildew, downy mildew and phylloxera. This is the reason why the end of the nineteenth century and the early twentieth century represent, for Haut-Brion, a period of reconstruction and replanting. André Gibert was then the owner at the beginning of the twentieth century, and sold it, in 1935, to Clarence Dillon. Today, the Dillon family is still at the head of the château Haut-Brion. 52

53 Lot

54 The Domaine Clarence Dillon comprises various castles of the appellation Pessac-Léognan, all located in the place called Haut-Brion: château Haut-Brion, château La Mission Haut-Brion, château Laville Haut- Brion and château La Tour Haut-Brion. The Great Wine of château Haut-Brion meets all the criteria to produce a wine out of the ordinary, extraordinarily consistent, even in difficult years. Smooth and suave; natural and harmonious, balanced and solid, it is a wine with infinite mellowness, which simply takes you elsewhere from the first aroma Today, the château Haut-Brion produces, in addition to its great wine, a white Haut- Brion, of Pessac-Léognan appellation. This white wine is exceptional, combining aromas of sweet wines and a unique freshness, together in a dry white wine. This land and the land of the château Laville Haut-Brion are used for the production of a second white wine, Les Plantiers Haut-Brion. It is produced from semillon and sauvignon. It is a dry white wine with also aromas of syrupy wines. Its production is very limited, mainly reserved for great French restaurants. The Bahans Haut-Brion, the second wine of château Haut-Brion, comes from the same vines as the grand cru classé. Accessible much younger than the Great Wine, it is nonetheless exceptional 然後我尌飲了一種名叫 Ho-Bryan( 原文如此 ) 的法國酒, 其口味之好和獨特, 是我從來未嚐過的 Samuel Pepys 在 1663 年 4 月 10 日寫道 經典之作 Haut-Brion 酒莊的紅酒擁有獨特的芳香 這座城堡位 處 Pessac, 管治家族曾包括 Pontac Fumel 和 Larrieu, 而 Talleyrand 也曾經短暫擁有過這裏 現時城堡由 Dillon 家族擁有, 出產產區之中最高貴與穩定的紅酒, 其陳化能力亦不同凡響 16 世紀時, 酒商世家 Jean de Pontac 創立了 Haut-Brion 莊園 他決定將莊園建在 Haut-Brion 這個隨妻子嫁妝而來的地方, 並建立城堡 用作葡萄園之用 他的子孫 Arnaud III 和 Francois-Auguste de Pontac 繼續發展這種有名的紅酒, 並將之輸出 到歐洲 François-Auguste de Pontac 還在倫敦開設一間名為 L Enseigne de Pontac 的小客棧, 於是 將公認出產最好紅酒之一的 Haut-Brion 的名聲傳播得更遠 繼 Pontac 家族擁有 Haut-Brion 的是 Fumel 家族, 他們積極擴建和美化城堡, 但法國大革命使這個家族生活艱難, 而拿破崙的外相 Talleyrand 先生也尌在 1801 年成為這片領地的主人 然後到 Larrieu 家族管理這片土地, 而正是他們的努力, 令 Haut-Brion 紅酒在 1855 年分級時被評為 一等最高級別 那是 Graves 區惟一獲此評級的紅酒, 得以躋身與有名的 Latour Lafite Rothschild 和 Margaux 同列 (Mouton Rothschild 則在 1973 年加入 ) (Château Haut-Brion 也在 1953 年獲認可為 Graves 區的 Grand Cru Classé 雖然釀酒技術已經現代化, 但 Haut-Brion 酒莊還是避不 開粉狀黴病 絨毛黴病和葡萄虱, 所以 19 世紀末和 20 世紀初是 Haut-Brion 的重建和重植期 André Gibert 是酒莊在 20 世紀初的主人, 他在 1935, 將之售予 Clarence Dillon 現時,Dillon 家族仍然擁有 Haut-Brion 酒莊,Clarence Dillon 領土包括 Pessac-Léognan 產品的多座城堡, 全都位置名為 Haut-Brion 的區域之 中, 包括 Haut-Brion 莊園 La Mission Haut-Brion 莊園 Laville Haut-Brion 莊園和 La Tour Haut-Brion 莊 園 Haut-Brion 酒莊能在平凡之中釀製出優質的紅酒, 而且即使在艱難的年份中, 依然能保持水準 平順而 溫和 自然而和諧 均衡而完整, 這種紅酒擁有無盡的醇熟, 從第一下芳香已帶你心馳神往 今天, Haut- Brion 除了出產出色的紅酒外, 還有來自 Pessac-Léognan 產區的 Haut-Brion 白酒 這種乾白酒卓爾非凡, 結合了甜酒的芳香與 獨特的清新 這個莊園與 Laville Haut-Brion 莊園也用於生產 Les Plantiers Haut-Brion 這種副牌白酒 它由 semillon 和 sauvignon 而造, 是一種帶有蜜糖酒芳香的乾白酒, 生產數數有限, 主要預留予一流的法國餐 廳 Bahans Haut-Brion 也是 Haut-Brion 酒莊的副牌, 跟 grand cru classé 來自同一個葡萄園 它雖然 較那出眾的紅酒平易近人而且年輕, 但仍然非同凡響 54

55 HAUT BRION By Robert M. Parker, Jr All things considered viticultural management, winemaking, élevage, and overall attention to detail there are probably no more experienced and talented Bordeaux wine deities than the Delmas family (grandfather, father, and now, son) who have been making Haut Brion since the 1920s. Jean-Bernard Delmas, who started in 1961 and retired following the 2003 vintage, has been replaced by his son Jean-Philippe, who immediately proved himself with an absolutely magnificent 2005, one of the great Haut Brions of the last 25 years. As an American who has witnessed some of the brilliant efforts by other Bordelais winemakers in California, I lament the fact that Jean Delmas has not had the opportunity to provide consultation for the production of California Cabernet Sauvignon. Although it is officially in a suburb, Haut Brion is situated essentially within the city of Bordeaux. This gives it one of the area s warmest and most precocious terroirs, a fact that has favored it in numerous vintages. The estate is undoubtedly making wine that merits its first growth status. In fact, the vintages from 1978 onward have always proven to be among the finest wines produced in Bordeaux, as well as personal favorites.there are only 500 to 800 cases of the Haut Brion Blanc, a blend of Semillon and Sauvignon, but year in and year out it is often the single greatest dry white wine made in Bordeaux, yet it is not one of the classified properties in all the different hierarchies imposed on Bordeaux. Bahans Haut Brion, the second wine of the famous Château Haut Brion, is consistently one of the best second wines produced in Bordeaux and also one of my favorites. HAUT BRION Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 考慮到葡萄栽種技術 釀酒術 成熟度的控制和對細節的注意的話, 在波爾多酒業之中論及經驗和才華, 大概尌無出 Delmas 家族之右了 ( 祖孫三代了 ) 他們從 1920 年代開始打理 Haut Brion,Jean-Bernard Delmas 自從 1961 接手, 直到完成 2003 年份後退休, 交由兒子 Jean-Philippe 管理 兒子立即以教人拍案叫絕的 2005 年 ( 那是 Haut Brion 過去 25 年間其中最出色的一年 ) 來證明自己絕非等閒之輩 我這個美國人見證過加州其他波爾多釀酒師的傑作後, 總是為 Jean Delmas 未能為加州的 Cabernet Sauvignon 生產提供專業意見而扼腕歎息 Haut Brion 雖然位處市郊, 但其實仍在波爾多城之內 它置身於區內最溫暖和最早熟的土壤, 因此能夠出產多個年份的佳釀 這個酒莊的出品, 絕對與其第一級的地位相稱 事實上, 從 1978 年貣這個酒莊的紅酒一直是波爾多中的頂尖佳品, 也是我的個人喜好 Haut Brion Blanc 混合了 Semillon 和 Sauvignon, 每年產量只有 500 至 800 箱, 但年復一年它都是波爾多最佳的乾白酒 然而, 在波爾多各種評級中, 它卻依然榜上無名 Bahans Haut Brion 是名酒莊 Haut Brion 的副牌, 一直保持水準, 是波爾多數一數二的副牌紅酒, 也一直是我的喜好 btls Cht Haut Brion OWC 2004 US$ 600/1000 HK$ 4400/7800 Medium-expressive nose of nutmeg and cocoa. Quite elegant on the palate with pleasantly granular tannin. Well-balanced aftertaste, but does not quite develop the volume and poise one would hope for. Tasted blind, 2004 Haut-Brion does not particularly stand out. Truth to tell, this will not be a very great wine. 頗有肉豆蔻和可可樹的香氣, 口感見優雅, 粒狀單寧使人快意 btls Cht Haut Brion OWC 2003 US$ 800/1000 HK$ 6100/7800 Very deep, intense, ruby; fruit, oak, whiff of strawberry, scented, attractive; medium dry to dry finish, good flesh and length. Michael Broadbent 2003 Haut Brion: interesting to note the relatively high proportion of Merlot (51%) in the final blending of 2003 Haut Brion. To the contrary of 2003 Pape-Clement in the same flight, the nose of 2003 Haut Brion is not very flamboyant with delicate red fruit flavours, cedar and lilac as well as a light but nevertheless distinctive animal note. The touch in mouth of this 2003 Haut Brion is fantastic. Penetrating ripe and dense fruit with a great balance. The tannins of 2003 Haut Brion are just tight enough to be enjoyable. Splendid but not overly long finish. At the current level of pleasure, I rated 2003 Haut Brion 90/100 today - potentially 96/100 in 20 years. 非常深沉, 強烈, 深紅 ; 果味 橡木 一絲草莓香氣, 香氣, 吸引, 收尾中度乾口, 肉感和尾韻良好 (Michael Broadbent) 2003 Haut Brion:2003 Haut Brion 最後混合時用上了相對較高比例的 Merlot(51%), 十分有趣 與同期的 2003 Pape-Clement 不同, 它沒有那種艷麗, 有的是雅緻的紅果 雪松和紫丁香氣色, 還有微弱但特別的動物氣息 2003 Haut Brion 的口感一流, 尖銳 成熟和濃重的果實帶有出色的平衡 ; 其單寧緊湊, 可供享受 尾韻優良但略感不足 以目前的享受來說, 我會打 90/100, 20 年後有機會是 96/ btls Cht Haut Brion OWC 2002 US$ 800/1000 HK$ 6100/7800 Opaque, intense, low keyed but rich aromas and considerable depth; fairly sweet, rich, full-flavoured, suave, long fragrant, oaky aftertaste. Lovely wine. Michael Broadbent 2002 Haut Brion: remarkable soft spiced flavours, mild tobacco, peony, chocolate. Elegant and well balanced body with a very pure fruit. The finish of 2002 Haut Brion is dominated by tannins that still need to round up. Elegant hint of sweetness on the finish Haut Brion deserves a lot more patience to reveal all its class. 90/100 深沉, 強烈, 低調但帶濃郁香氣亦頗具深度 頗甜, 豐富口感, 溫和, 韻味悠長並帶橡味餘韻 可人的酒 (Michael Broadbent) 2002 Haut Brion..帶明顯的柔和辛味, 淡淡的煙草味 芍藥和巧克力味 高雅和平衡的酒體, 帶有純淨的果實 2002 Haut Brion 的餘韻以單寧為主, 但仍有待集中 尾韻帶優雅的甜香 2002 Haut Brion 值得靜候其盡顯內涵 90/100 55

56 btls Cht Haut Brion individual OWC 2002 US$ 600/700 HK$ 4400/ btls Cht Haut Brion OWC 2001 US$ 1400/1800 HK$ 10500/ Haut Brion: dark ruby red to purple. The nose is astonishingly complex: berries, ripe red fruit, smooth balsamic spices. Beautiful structure with a high level of accuracy. Dynamic balanced body with a rich finish characterized by a splendid ripe fruit. A 2001 Haut Brion of great class. 93/ Haut Brion..深暗紅色到紫色 香氣非常複雜, 有漿果 熟紅果和溫和的香脂香料 結構極好, 準確度亦很高 有活力的平衡酒體, 餘韻豐富, 帶有一種顯 著的成熟果味 2001 年度 Haut Brion 的佳釀 93/ mag Cht Haut Brion 2000 US$ 3600/4300 HK$ 27700/33200 Richly coloured, showing some maturity; slightly singed, earthy, very sweet-almost brown-sugar nose; full flavoured but dry, lean, fine tannins, great length. Michael Broadbent 顏色豐富, 略呈成熟 ; 香氣微焦, 泥土, 非常甜, 近乎紅糖的香氣 ; 口感完滿但乾, 不膩, 單寧良好, 餘韻悠長 (Michael Broadbent) mag Cht Haut Brion 2000 US$ 1100/1400 HK$ 8300/ mag Cht Haut Brion 2000 US$ 3200/4300 HK$ 24900/ btls Cht Haut Brion OWC 2000 US$ 2900/4300 HK$ 22000/ btls Cht Haut Brion OWC 2000 US$ 5700/8500 HK$ 44300/ btls Cht Haut Brion OWC 2000 US$ 1300/1700 HK$ 10500/ btls Cht Haut Brion 1996 US$ 2600/3200 HK$ 20000/24900 Soft black cherry, nose packed with fruit, whiff of raspberries, harmonious; lovely flesh and texture, soft, sweet, richness masking tannin. Michael Broadbent 柔軟的黑櫻桃, 果香撲鼻, 並帶木莓芳香, 諧和, 肉感和結構可人, 柔軟, 甜身, 豐富口感中隱含單寧 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Haut Brion 1993 US$ 2100/2600 HK$ 16600/20000 Open-rimmed, maturing; nose a rich melange of coffee and fruit; distinct citrus character, easy style but dry finish. Michael Broadbent 邊緣呈開放型, 成熟中 ; 混合著豐富咖啡和果實香氣 ; 突出的柑橘, 風格平和, 收尾乾口 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Haut Brion 1992 US$ 1100/1700 HK$ 8800/ btls at 1.5cm, 1 btl at 2cm; 1 slightly torn label bts Cht Haut Brion 1991 US$ 900/1300 HK$ 6700/ btls at 2cm, 2 btls at 2.8cm; bin-soiled labels; bin-soiled bottles lot of 3 btls including : 1990 US$ 1300/1700 HK$ 10000/ btls Cht Haut Brion 1cm below cork; 1.5cm below cork Lovely colour; bouquet very forthcoming, harmonious, soft, rich; curious, very distinctive, old autumn leaves, soft, earthy, unmistakably Graves flavour. Michael Broadbent 顏色可人, 芳香迎人, 諧和, 柔軟, 豐富 ; 難於理解, 非常特別, 老秋葉, 柔軟, 泥土氣色, 無疑是 Graves 產區的味道 (Michael Broadbent) - 1 btl Cht Haut Brion btls Cht Haut Brion 1989 US$ 2100/2600 HK$ 16600/20000 Wonderful, rich, fruity but with a slightly astringent finis;. Michael Broadbent 精彩, 豐富, 帶果味但收尾略澀 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Haut Brion 100% Parker - OWC 1989 US$ 10700/17800 HK$ 83000/ btl high fill, 11 btls into neck btls Cht Haut Brion OWC 1989 US$ 10700/12800 HK$ 83000/ btls into neck btls Cht Haut Brion OWC 1988 US$ 2000/2600 HK$ 15500/ btls at 1.2cm below cork, 4 btls at 1.5cm below cork, 3 btls at 1.8cm below cork Opaque, a relatively low-keyed hot pebbles yet floral, citrus-like nose. A silky, tannic texture and mocha-like flavour. Very positive character, but teethgripping tannin and acidity. Michael Broadbent 晦暗, 相對低調, 氣息帶 熱卵石 花香和柑橘的感覺 質地柔順, 單寧具結構, 有咖啡香味 個性正面, 但單寧和酸度囓齒 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Haut Brion OWC 1988 US$ 2000/2600 HK$ 15500/ btls at 1.5cm below cork, 4 btls at 2cm btls Cht Haut Brion OWC 1988 US$ 2000/2600 HK$ 15500/ btls high fill, 8 btls into neck, 2 btls base of neck btls Cht Haut Brion 1988 US$ 1900/2500 HK$ 15000/ btls at 1cm below cork, 2 btls at 1.5cm below cork, 1 btl at 2cm; 4 stained, bin-soiled labels btls Cht Haut Brion OWC 1987 US$ 1400/1900 HK$ 11100/ btls into neck btls Cht Haut Brion OWC 1987 US$ 1400/1900 HK$ 11100/ btls into neck btls Cht Haut Brion 1987 US$ 400/570 HK$ 3300/ btls at 1.8cm; bin-soiled, slightly torn labels btls Cht Haut Brion 1985 US$ 1800/2600 HK$ 13400/ btls at 1.5cm, 2 btls at 1.8cm, 1 btl at 2cm, 1 btl at 2.5cm Medium-deep, ripe mulberry, open, relaxed rim, long legs. Lovely, earthy, pebbly, warm tiles Graves nose and flavour. Good tannin and acidity, though noting a touch of harshness. A lovely wine. Michael Broadbent 深度中等, 成熟的桑椹, 開放型, 邊緣隨和, 長長掛杯 可愛, 令人聯想到泥土 卵石和暖地磚的氣色和味道 單寧和酸度不錯, 雖然略覺粗糙 可人的紅 酒 (Michael Broadbent) bts Cht Haut Brion 1984 US$ 1700/2500 HK$ 13300/ btls into neck, 10 btls base of neck bts Cht Haut Brion OWC 1983 US$ 1800/2500 HK$ 13900/ btls base of neck, 2 btls top-shoulder An open mature, orange-brown rim; a fully developed, slightly smelly, stalky vegetal nose, showing its age, and, I thought, drying out. Michael Broadbent 成熟, 邊緣有橙褐色, 完全成熟, 略帶臭味和植物莖部的氣味, 展示了陳年並開始變乾 (Michael Broadbent) 56

57 bts Cht Haut Brion OWC 1983 US$ 1800/2500 HK$ 13900/ btls base of neck, 1 btl top-shoulder bts Cht Haut Brion 1980 US$ 1100/1400 HK$ 8300/ btl at 2cm, 4 btls at 2.5cm, 1 btl at 2.8cm; bin-soiled labels; Marianne capsule on top bts Cht Haut Brion OWC 1979 US$ 2100/2600 HK$ 16600/ btls into neck, 9 btls base of neck, 1 btl top-shoulder; 7 stained labels, 1 torn label Deep, dark cherry-red tinge, rich legs ; alas, unexciting except for the high acidity hinted at by the redness just noted. A touch of liquorice, opening up with a whiff of caramel; surprisingly sweet on the palate, but spoiled by its astringency. Michael Broadbent 深沉, 沉黑櫻桃紅的色調, 掛杯豐富 ; 然而除了紅色暗示的高酸度外, 單調乏味 有甘草芳香, 味道帶一絲焦糖 口感頗甜, 令人意外, 但失諸過份嚴厲 (Michael Broadbent) bts Cht Haut Brion OWC 1979 US$ 2100/2600 HK$ 16600/ btls base of neck; 11 slightly stained label, 1torn label lot of 4 btls including : US$ 1100/1400 HK$ 8900/ btl Cht Haut Brion cm; bin-soiled, stained, slightly torn label - 1 btl Cht Haut Brion cm below cork; torn label An earthy tobacco-like nose and flavour; its dry finish now tinged with a touch of bitterness. Michael Broadbent - 2 btls Cht Haut Brion cm, 7cm; very bin-soiled labels, very damaged labels Elegant, Slightly, acidic but refreshing and not obstructive. Michael Broadbent 典雅, 微酸但別有韻緻, 並不妨人 (Michael Broadbent) mag Cht Haut Brion 1975 US$ 1100/1400 HK$ 8300/ cm and 4.3cm; nicked, very bin-soiled labels Fullymature, orange brown rim hightly distinctive bouquet and flavour-smoky autumn leaves. Fairly sweet, some softness, good body, richness masking tannin. Michael Broadbent 完全成熟, 邊緣有橙褐色, 非常獨特的芳香, 有煙燻秋氣的氣味 頗甜, 略帶柔軟, 酒體不俗, 豐富口感之中隱含單寧 (Michael Broadbent) lot of 4 btls including : US$ 1100/1400 HK$ 8900/ btls Cht Haut Brion btl at 3.5cm, 1 btl at 4cm, 1 btl at 5cm; bin-soiled, torn labels; bin-soiled bottles - 1 btl Cht Haut Brion cm; bin-soiled label; dust bts Cht Haut Brion 1959 US$ 3400/4300 HK$ 26600/ cm below cork, 5cm below cork Thanks to the vineyard s deep Graves gravel, the wine is distinctively different to its peers further north in the Médoc in appearance, nose and taste-yet it also has elegance and finesse. Very distinctive nose, tobacco-like, earthy fragrance, surging out of the glass; full of fruit yet concentrated. A wonderful gradation of colour; showing age but sweet and mellow, with a lovely edge-of-honeycomb scent after an hour in the glass. A positive, sweet entry, soft yet assertive. Michael Broadbent 由於葡萄園位置深厚的砂礫層之上, 釀造的酒便較北面 Médoc 區的在外表 氣味和口感都有所不同, 但仍保持高雅精細 非常特別的香氣, 有煙土和泥土的氣 息奪杯而出, 果味充盈而集中 顏色的層次一流, 顯示出陳年, 但仍有甜味與芳醇 放在酒杯一小時後, 尌有可人的蜂巢香味 入口正面和甜身, 柔軟之餘不 失明確 (Michael Broadbent) bt Cht Haut Brion 1928 US$ 1300/1700 HK$ 10000/13300 mid-shoulder; damaged, bin-soiled label; vintage legible on cork Fullymature, orange brown rim hightly distinctive bouquet and flavour-smoky autumn leaves. Fairly sweet, some softness, good body, richness masking tannin. Michael Broadbent 完全成熟, 邊緣有橙褐色, 非常獨特的芳香, 有煙燻秋氣的氣味 頗甜, 略帶柔軟, 酒體不俗, 豐富口感之中隱含單寧 (Michael Broadbent) bt Cht Haut Brion 1925 US$ 1000/1400 HK$ 7800/11100 mid-shoulder; slightly corroded capsule 57

58 58 Lot 179

59 Cheval Blanc St Emilion 1er Grand Cru Classé A Part of the present Château Cheval Blanc is known to have been a former inn, in which King Henri the fourth stayed. In honor of his king, the landlord decided to rename it Auberge du cheval blanc. The name was taken up for the Château Cheval Blanc to designate the extension of the old inn. In 1832, Ducasse acquired 15 hectares of the Figeac area, and a few years later another 15 acres were added. His daughter married Jean Laussac-Fourcaud, and brought the 30 hectares of his father, as a dowry. Consequently, Jean Laussac-Fourcaud exploited the full potential of this area. The Figeac s wine became the wine of Château Cheval Blanc. He made this wine a unique one, with vines of cabernet franc, unusual in this region where merlot prevails. After his death, his son, Albert took over the estate. After a long family tradition, Albert Frère and Bernard Arnaud bought the Château Cheval Blanc in Pierre Lurton, current director of the castle is also director of the château d Yquem. Located on the edge of the Pomerol appellation area, this château of 37 hectares produces the most regular wines of Saint-Emilion, with the finest aromas. On a sandy and gravelly soil, cabernet franc flourishes splendidly. It is a fragrant and sensual wine, accessible when young, and with an impressive potential for aging. It will reveal all its subtle aromas after a decade or more. The purest expression of a unique soil. 現時 Cheval Blanc 酒莊的局部曾是一間旅館, 下榻的客人包括法王亨利四世 為向國王致敬, 旅館主人將之易名為 Auberge du cheval blanc, 後來 Cheval Blanc 莊園亦沿襲了這個名稱, 以彰顯舊日旅館的部份 1832 年,Ducasse 買下了 Figeac 區 15 公頃土地, 幾年後再多買 15 公頃 他的女兒下嫁 Jean Laussac-Fourcaud, 這 30 公頃土地尌成了嫁妝 Jean Laussac-Fourcaud 善用了這片土地的潛能, Figeac 的酒也尌成為 Cheval Blanc 莊園的酒 這區域盛產 merlot, 他卻選擇了 cabernet franc 的葡萄, 令這種酒變得獨一無二 他死後, 由兒子 Albert 接掌酒莊 在家族中傳承多年後,Albert Frère 和 Bernard Arnaud 在 1998 年購入 Cheval Blanc 酒莊 ; 城堡目前的總監 Pierre Lurton 也是 d Yquem 莊園的總監 這莊園位處 Pomerol 產區的邊緣地區, 面積 37 公頃, 出產最正規的 Saint-Emilion 紅酒, 芳香撲鼻 cabernet franc 在沙地和砂礫滿佈的土壤上生長奇佳 這種酒滿具芬芳和肉感, 年輕時平易近人, 陳化潛力也教人印象深刻 它在十年以後, 尌會展示所有潛藏的香氣 獨特土壤的最佳演繹 59

60 CHEVAL BLANC By Robert M. Parker, Jr One of the most elegant and noble wines in all of Bordeaux, made in a distinctive lighter, more delicate style because of the high percentage of Cabernet Franc in the final blend (usually between 40% and 55%), Cheval Blanc produces aromatic, long-lived wines that represent the quintessential, complex style of Bordeaux. It is never a powerful wine but is consistently well made and even more consistent since Pierre Lurton began managing it. This property is now owned by the Moët-Hennessy luxury empire of Bernard Arnault. In addition, Albert Frères, one of Belgium s most successful businessmen (and a noted gourmet), has an important stake in the estate. CHEVAL BLANC Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語現時 Cheval Blanc 酒莊的局部曾是一間旅館, 下榻的客人包括法王亨利四世 為向國王致敬, 旅館主人將之易名為 Auberge du cheval blanc, 後來 Cheval Blanc 莊園亦沿襲了這個名稱, 以彰顯舊日旅館的部份 1832 年,Ducasse 買下了 Figeac 區 15 公頃土地, 幾年後再多買 15 公頃 他的女兒下嫁 Jean Laussac-Fourcaud, 這 30 公頃土地尌成了嫁妝 Jean Laussac-Fourcaud 善用了這片土地的潛能, Figeac 的酒也尌成為 Cheval Blanc 莊園的酒 這區域盛產 merlot, 他卻選擇了 cabernet franc 的葡萄, 令這種酒變得獨一無二 他死後, 由兒子 Albert 接掌酒莊 在家族中傳承多年後,Albert Frère 和 Bernard Arnaud 在 1998 年購入 Cheval Blanc 酒莊 ; 城堡目前的總監 Pierre Lurton 也是 d Yquem 莊園的總監 這莊園位處 Pomerol 產區的邊緣地區, 面積 37 公頃, 出產最正規的 Saint-Emilion 紅酒, 芳香撲鼻 cabernet franc 在沙地和砂礫滿佈的土壤上生長奇佳 這種酒滿具芬芳和肉感, 年輕時平易近人, 陳化潛力也教人印象深刻 它在十年以後, 尌會展示所有潛藏的香氣 獨特土壤的最佳演繹 60

61 btl Cht Cheval Blanc 2005 US$ 700/1100 HK$ 5500/ btls Cht Cheval Blanc OWC 2004 US$ 700/1100 HK$ 5000/ btls Cht Cheval Blanc OWC 2003 US$ 800/1000 HK$ 6100/7800 «Wonderfully deep, fairly intense ; difficult to smell in the chai but sweet and sweaty tannins ; sweet on the palate, soft, touch of tar. Attractive. Relatively early developer. Michael Broadbent 深沉得非常好, 頗為強烈 ; 在酒庫中嗅不到, 但有甜身並帶汗味的單寧 ; 入口軟而且甜, 有焦油味道 吸引, 相對較早成熟 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Cheval Blanc OWC 2002 US$ 1400/2100 HK$ 11100/16600 «Good Merlot, very good Cabernet Franc. Rich, velvety; very crisp, oak not yet integrated, very dry finish. Michael Broadbent 好的 Merlot, 很好的 Cabernet Franc 口感豐富, 柔軟 ; 非常脆口, 橡木味道仍未完全融入, 收尾非常乾口 (Michael btls Cht Cheval Blanc OWC 2001 US$ 1400/2100 HK$ 11100/16600 «Very deep, opaque core ; interesting nose-bricky, whiff of iron, then mocha and liquorice; surprisingly soft entry and very good fruit. An attractive, early-matutring Michael Broadbent 非常深沉, 中心晦暗, 香氣引人, 有磚 一絲鐵氣 然後是咖啡和甘草 ; 入口柔軟, 令人意外, 並有很好的果味 非常吸引和早熟的 01 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Cheval Blanc OWC 2001 US$ 1400/2100 HK$ 11100/ btls Cht Cheval Blanc 1990 US$ 9900/12100 HK$ 77500/ lot of 6 btls including : US$ 1300/1700 HK$ 10000/ btls Cht Cheval Blanc btl high fill, 4 btls into neck «A well developed, sweet and chocolatey nose and flavour.» Michael Broadbent 發展良好, 有甜和巧克力的香氣和味道 (Michael Broadbent) - 1 btl Cht Cheval Blanc 1994 slightly bin-soiled label btls Cht Cheval Blanc 1993 US$ 2100/3100 HK$ 16000/24300 «Medium, maturing, watery rim; attractive nose, whiff of iron, mellow yet shallow, lightish style, nice weight, refreshing acidity. Michael Broadbent 酒體中等, 成熟中, 邊緣稀淡 ; 香氣吸引, 有鐵質氣色, 淺薄的芳醇, 輕盈風格, 重度不俗, 酸度別有韻緻 (Michael Broadbent) lot of 8 btls including : US$ 1300/1700 HK$ 10000/ btls Cht Cheval Blanc into neck btls Cht Cheval Blanc btls into neck; very slightly bin-soiled btls - 1 btl Cht Cheval Blanc 1 btl base of neck 1981 Opaque core; sweet, perfect weight, good flavour with hint of Cheval Blanc s iron. Perfectly dry finish. Michael Broadbent 核心不透明; 甜身, 重度完美, 味道不錯, 略帶 Cheval Blanc 的鐵質氣色 以完美乾口收尾作結 (Michael Broadbent) - 1 btl Cht Cheval Blanc 1966 upper-shoulder; very slightly torn label Many delectable notes. Glorious fragrance; medium dry, still crisp and youthful. A superb wine. Michael Broadbent 許多可人的特點 壯美芳香; 中度乾口, 仍然脆口而年輕 極好的酒 (Michael Broadbent) mag Cht Cheval Blanc OWC 1988 US$ 3200/3900 HK$ 24900/ mag into neck «Showing some maturity ; very good, firm, good length, dry finish. Overall a sweet and lovely wine. Michael Broadbent 整體而言是甜美可人 開始展示成熟; 非常好, 堅實, 悠長, 收尾乾口 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Cheval Blanc OWC 1988 US$ 2800/3500 HK$ 22100/ btls into neck, 3 btls base of neck, 6 btls top shoulder btls Cht Cheval Blanc 1984 US$ 1700/2600 HK$ 13300/

62 Ausone A dark and mysterious château Château Ausone s wine is certainly the most mysterious of the Saint-Emilion appellation. The origin of the name is not sure. It is said that this Château was named by its founder, in 1786, after discovering some Gallo-Roman ruins probably originating from the villa of Ausone. Ausone was a poet and a key figure in Saint-Emilion at this time. The vineyard of this small village of Bordeaux gained an undeniable reputation thanks to this Latin poet, born in Bordeaux and wine lover. It also said that the Château is situated on a very old cemetery in Saint-Emilion. Anyway, it is sure that Château Ausone enjoys a unique soil and a very special history. Its clayey soil, its geographical location and its climate make this grand cru classé of Saint-Emilion one of the most famous wines of Bordeaux. Since the arrival of Alain Vauthier, co-director and estate s owner since 1997, Château Ausone has regained all its nobility. With care and very high standards, he makes it possible for the Château Ausone s wines to offer a strong tannic structure, combining finesse, balance, richness and elegance. Originating from old vines (over 50 years), the wines offer a keeping potential from 50 to 100 years. It should be noted that the wine reaches its maturity after two decades. A legendary wine, out of the ordinary 一個黑暗而充滿神秘感的酒莊 Ausone 酒莊的紅酒肯定是整個 Saint-Emilion 產區最富神秘感的 酒莊名字來源不詳, 有說這是酒莊創立人的名字, 他在 1786 年於現址發現一些高盧羅馬人的遺跡, 這些遺跡有可能源自羅馬詵人 Ausone 的別墅, 他當時是 Saint-Emilion 區的重要人物, 生於波爾多並十分喜歡紅酒 這座波爾多的小村尌因為這位拉丁詵人而揚名千里 又有說, 酒莊位於 Saint-Emilion 一個古地墓園之上 無論如何,Ausone 莊園擁有獨特的土壤和非常特別的歷史 其黏質土壤 地理位置和氣候, 都令這種 Saint-Emilion 的 grand cru classé 成為波爾多最有名的紅酒 自從聯席經理及莊園主人 Alain Vauthier 在 1997 年上任以來, Ausone 已重拾其高雅氣息 通過細心照料和極高要求, 他讓 Ausone 酒莊的紅酒帶有強烈的單寧的結構, 包含了細緻 平衡 豐滿和優雅 紅酒源自五十歲以上的老葡萄樹, 在 20 年後適合飲用, 可以保存 50 到 100 年 從平凡而生的傳奇紅酒 62

63 63

64 64 Lot 187

65 AUSONE St Emilion 1er Grand Cru Classé A By Robert M. Parker, Jr What can be said further about the perfectionist proprietor Alain Vauthier? Here is a man who sees the future. He has taken one of the most hallowed terroirs of Bordeaux and pushed it to even higher levels of quality, working like a zealot in the vineyard, making draconian selections in the cellar, thereby reducing what was already a tiny production to produce only the quintessence of this gorgeous old-vine vineyard on the limestone hillsides of St Emilion. He has made one of the finest wines of the vintage for the last decade or so, and the accolades he has received worldwide seem only to propel him to greater heights. The stricter selection process at the estate has resulted in the production of a small quantity of second wine. Readers should not hesitate to check out La Chapelle d Ausone. AUSONE St Emilion 1er Grand Cru Classé A Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 對於完美主義者兼業主 Alain Vauthier, 還有甚麼可說呢? 他擁有過人的洞察力, 把波爾多的一片聖地提升到更高的質量層次, 孜孜不倦的在葡萄園工作, 又在酒窖裏嚴格控制品質, 將本已不多的產品進一步升華 在這所位於 St Emilion 某石灰岩山坡的優美葡萄園裏, 種滿了老葡萄樹,Alain Vauthier 過去十年左右尌在這裏釀造優質的紅酒, 似乎他在世界各地所得的稱許, 尌是令他更上一層樓的動力 嚴格篩選的品質令這個酒莊出產少量副牌酒, 讀者勿忘一詴 La Chapelle d Ausone btls Cht Ausone 2002 US$ 1300/1800 HK$ 10000/13800 «Deep, youthful, fairly intense ; spicy, floral, whiff of citrus ; dry, rich, very oaky flavour and aftertaste, leathery tannic texture. Michael Broadbent 深沉 年輕 頗見年度; 香料 花香和陣陣柑橘氣息 ; 乾身 豐富, 帶強烈橡木味道和餘韻, 單寧結構帶皮革味 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Ausone 1993 US$ 500/700 HK$ 3900/ btl high fill, 1 btl into neck btls Cht Ausone OWC 1989 US$ 6400/7800 HK$ 49800/ btls into neck Open mature, sweet, pleasant fruit, fragrant, beginning to show its age, lean, lacking the vigour and sap of the 89 Médocs. Michael Broadbent 開放型 成熟 甜身, 果香怡人, 芳香, 漸見其歲月, 不膩, 欠缺 89 Médoc 的力度和精髓 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Ausone OWC 1989 US$ 6400/7800 HK$ 49800/ btls into neck, 1 btl base of neck; very slightly bin-soiled labels; dust btls Cht Ausone 1988 US$ 1400/1900 HK$ 11100/ btls into neck, 4 btls base of neck, damaged, stained btls btls Cht Ausone 1982 US$ 1400/1900 HK$ 11100/ btl high fill, 2 btls base of neck; 3 very damaged btls btls Cht Ausone 1981 US$ 1300/1700 HK$ 10000/ btls base of neck, 5 btls top-shoulder;1 slightly damaged label Definitely a good wine. Touch of malt, tobacco, dried ferns, earthy. Distinctively different. Michael Broadbent 絕對是好酒 有麥芽 煙草 乾蕨和泥土的氣息 與別不同 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Ausone 1980 US$ 400/600 HK$ 3400/ btls base of neck 65

66 66 Prestige Cases

67 Lot

68 Duclot Collection Including 11 Cases from 1997 to 2007 : US$ 85100/ HK$ / : 1 btl Cht Margaux, 1 btl Cht Mission Haut Brion, 1 btl Cht Haut Brion, 1 btl Cht Cheval Blanc, 1 btl Cht Latour, 1 btl Cht Mouton Rothschild, 1 btl Cht Lafite Rothschild, 1 btl Cht Ausone,1 btl Cht Pétrus, : 1 btl Cht Margaux, 1 btl Cht Mission Haut Brion, 1 btl Cht Haut Brion, 1 btl Cht Cheval Blanc. 1 btl Cht Latour, 1 btl Cht Mouton Rothschild, 1 btl Cht Lafite Rothschild, 1 btl Cht Ausone, 1 btl Cht Pétrus, : 1 btl Cht Margaux, 1 btl Cht Mission Haut Brion, 1 btl Cht Haut Brion, 1 btl Cht Cheval Blanc. 1 btl Cht Latour, 1 btl Cht Mouton Rothschild, 1 btl Cht Lafite Rothschild, 1 btl Cht Ausone, 1 btl Cht Pétrus, : 1 btl Cht Margaux, 1 btl Cht Mission Haut Brion, 1 btl Cht Haut Brion, 1 btl Cht Cheval Blanc. 1 btl Cht Latour, 1 btl Cht Mouton Rothschild, 1 btl Cht Lafite Rothschild, 1 btl Cht Ausone, 1 btl Cht Pétrus, : 1 btl Cht Margaux, 1 btl Cht Mission Haut Brion, 1 btl Cht Haut Brion, 1 btl Cht Cheval Blanc. 1 btl Cht Latour, 1 btl Cht Mouton Rothschild, 1 btl Cht Lafite Rothschild, 1 btl Cht Ausone, 1 btl Cht Pétrus, : 1 btl Cht Margaux, 1 btl Cht Mission Haut Brion 1 btl Cht Haut Brion, 1 btl Cht Cheval Blanc. 1 btl Cht Latour, 1 btl Cht Mouton Rothschild, 1 btl Cht Lafite Rothschild, 1 btl Cht Ausone,1 btl Cht Pétrus, : 1 btl Cht Margaux, 1 btl Cht Mission Haut Brion 1 btl Cht Haut Brion, 1 btl Cht Cheval Blanc. 1 btl Cht Latour, 1 btl Cht Mouton Rothschild, 1 btl Cht Lafite Rothschild, 1 btl Cht Ausone, 1 btl Cht Pétrus, : 1 btl Cht Margaux, 1 btl Cht Mission Haut Brion 1 btl Cht Haut Brion, 1 btl Cht Cheval Blanc. 1 btl Cht Latour, 1 btl Cht Mouton Rothschild, 1 btl Cht Lafite Rothschild, 1 btl Cht Yquem, 1 btl Cht Pétrus, : 1 btl Cht Margaux, 1 btl Cht Mission Haut Brion 1 btl Cht Haut Brion, 1 btl Cht Cheval Blanc. 1 btl Cht Latour, 1 btl Cht Mouton Rothschild, 1 btl Cht Lafite Rothschild, 1 btl Cht Yquem, 1 btl Cht Pétrus, : 1 btl Cht Margaux, 1 btl Cht Mission Haut Brion 1 btl Cht Haut Brion, 1 btl Cht Cheval Blanc. 1 btl Cht Latour, 1 btl Cht Mouton Rothschild, 1 btl Cht Lafite Rothschild, 1 btl Cht Yquem, 1 btl Cht Pétrus, : 1 btl Cht Margaux, 1 btl Cht Mission Haut Brion 1 btl Cht Haut Brion, 1 btl Cht Cheval Blanc, 1 btl Cht Latour, 1 btl Cht Mouton Rothschild, 1 btl Cht Lafite Rothschild, 1 btl Cht Yquem, 1 btl Cht Pétrus CARRE d AS Wooden Case of 8 magnums DUCLOT including : 2000 US$ 35500/45400 HK$ / mag Cht Pétrus - 2 mag Cht Latour - 2 mag Cht Margaux - 2 mag Cht Haut Brion btls including : 2004 US$ 8500/9200 HK$ 66400/ bts Cht Lafite - 2 bts Cht Pétrus - 2 bts Cht Mouton Rothschild - 2 bts Cht Cheval Blanc - 2 bts Cht Margaux - 2 bts Cht Haut Brion Prestige Case of 9 btls including : 2004 US$ 3100/4300 HK$ 24300/ bt Cht Yquem - 1 bt Cht Pétrus - 1 bt Cht Mouton Rothschild - 1 bt Cht Lafite Rothschild - 1 bt Cht Latour - 1 bt Cht Cheval Blanc - 1 bt Cht Margaux - 1 bt Cht Haut Brion - 1 bt Cht La Mission Haut Brion Prestige Case of 9 btls including : 2004 US$ 3100/4300 HK$ 24300/ bt Cht Yquem - 1 bt Cht Pétrus - 1 bt Cht Mouton Rothschild - 1 bt Cht Lafite Rothschild, - 1 bt Cht Latour - 1 bt Cht Cheval Blanc - 1 bt Cht Margaux - 1 bt Cht Haut Brion - 1 bt Cht La Mission Haut Brion Prestige Case of 9 btls including : 2004 US$ 3100/4300 HK$ 24300/ bt Cht Yquem - 1 bt Cht Pétrus - 1 bt Cht Mouton Rothschild - 1 bt Cht Lafite Rothschild - 1 bt Cht Latour - 1 bt Cht Cheval Blanc - 1 bt Cht Margaux - 1 bt Cht Haut Brion - 1 bt Cht La Mission Haut Brion 68

69 Prestige Case of 12 btls including : 2004 US$ 5700/7100 HK$ 44300/ bts Cht Lafite Rothschild - 2 bts Cht Cheval Blanc - 2 bts Cht Latour - 2 bts Cht Margaux - 2 bts Cht Pétrus - 2 bts Cht Mouton Rothschild Vintage Collection of 6 btls including : 2003 US$ 4300/5700 HK$ 33200/ bt Cht Margaux - 1 bt Cht Haut Brion - 1 bt Cht Pétrus - 1 bt Cht Mouton Rothschild, - 1 bt Cht Lafite Rothschild, - 1 bt Cht Latour Collection Case of 9 btls including : 2003 US$ 6400/7800 HK$ 49800/ bt Cht Ausone - 1 bt Cht Pétrus, - 1 bt Cht Mouton Rothschild, - 1 bt Cht Lafite Rothschild, - 1 bt Cht Latour - 1 bt Cht Cheval Blanc, - 1 bt Cht Margaux - 1 bt Cht Haut Brion - 1 bt Cht La Mission Haut Brion Prestige Case of 9 btls including : 2003 US$ 6400/7800 HK$ 49800/ bt Cht Ausone, - 1 bt Cht Pétrus, - 1 bt Cht Mouton Rothschild, - 1 bt Cht Lafite Rothschild, - 1 bt Cht Latour - 1 bt Cht Cheval Blanc, - 1 bt Cht Margaux - 1 bt Cht Haut Brion - 1 bt Cht La Mission Haut Brion Prestige Case of 12 btls including : 2002 US$ 5000/6400 HK$ 38800/ bts Cht Lafite Rothschild - 2 bts Cht Haut Brion - 2 bts Cht Latour - 2 bts Cht Margaux - 2 bts Cht Pétrus - 2 bts Cht Mouton Rothschild Prestige Case of 12 btls including : 2002 US$ 5000/6400 HK$ 38800/ bts Cht Lafite Rothschild - 2 bts Cht Haut Brion - 2 bts Cht Latour - 2 bts Cht Margaux - 2 bts Cht Pétrus - 2 bts Cht Mouton Rothschild Prestige Case of 12 btls including : 2002 US$ 5000/6400 HK$ 38700/ bts Cht Lafite Rothschild - 2 bts Cht Haut Brion - 2 bts Cht Latour - 2 bts Cht Margaux - 2 bts Cht Pétrus - 2 bts Cht Mouton Rothschild Prestige Case of 12 btls including : 2000 US$ 17000/21300 HK$ / bts Cht Haut Brion - 3 bts Cht Latour - 3 bts Cht Margaux - 3 bts Cht Pétrus DUCLOT Panache (Mixed) Case of 12 btls including : 1999 US$ 8500/11300 HK$ 66400/ bts Cht Lafite Rothschild - 2 bts Cht Cheval Blanc - 2 bts Cht Latour - 2 bts Cht Margaux - 2 bts Cht Pétrus - 2 bts Cht Mouton Rothschild 69

70 Other Grands Crus classés ofbordeaux 其他波爾多的 Grands Crus Classés 70

71 Lot

72 Pauillac PICHON LONGUEVILLE - COMTESSE DE LALANDE Pauillac 2ème Cru Classé By Robert M. Parker, Jr At present, Pichon-longueville-Comtesse de Lalande is unquestionably the most popular and, since 1978, one of Pauillac s most consistenly brilliant wines. It can rival the three famous first growths of this commune. The wines of Pichon-Lalande have been very successful since 1961, but there is no question that in the late 1970s and early 1980s, under the energic helm of Madame de Lencquesaing, the quality rose dramatically. Additionally, one can t say enough about the brilliant work being done by Thomas Do-Chi-Nam, who started at Pichon Lalande in Pichon Lalande was sold in 2006 to the Roederer Champagne firm. The only perplexing aspect is the estate s propensity to underperform is some truly great vintages, for example 1990 and PICHON LONGUEVILLE - COMTESSE DE LALANDE Pauillac 2ème Cru Classé Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 Pichon-longueville-Comtesse de Lalande 無疑是目前最受歡迎的紅酒, 而且自 1978 年以來也是 Pauillac 表現最穩定的佳釀, 有力與行政區內三項著名的第一級紅酒並駕齊驅 Pichon-Lalande 自 1961 年開始尌非常成功, 但在 1970 年代末及 1980 年代初經由精力充沛的 de Lencquesaing 女士打理後, 質量無疑是再進一大步 而 Thomas Do- Chi-Nam 在 1992 年於 Pichon Lalande 開始工作後的貢獻, 同樣不容忽視 Pichon Lalande 已於 2006 年售予 Roederer 香檳公司 惟一令人費解的, 是莊園何以會慣於在某些出色年份 ( 例如 1990 年和 2005 年 ) 表現失準 btls Cht Pichon Comtesse de Lalande- Pauillac OWC 1989 US$ 1100/1700 HK$ 8900/ btls into neck, 5 btls base of neck, 2 btls top-shoulder «Deep, still youthful ; very good, rich yet crisp fruit, Pauillac iron ; fleshy, even plump, soft tannins yet very dry finish.» Michael Broadbent 深沉, 仍然年輕 ; 非常好, 豐富而清脆的果實, 有 Pauillac 區的鐵質 ; 有肉感, 甚至可說是豐滿, 單寧輕柔, 但餘感十分乾 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Pichon Comtesse de Lalande- Pauillac OWC 1989 US$ 1100/1700 HK$ 8900/ btls into neck, 3 btls base of neck, 6 btls top-shoulder bts Cht Pichon Comtesse de Lalande- Pauillac OWC 1988 US$ 1000/1400 HK$ 8300/ btls into neck, 3 btls base of neck; 1 slightly damaged capsule, 1 very damaged capsule «Maturity, sweet, fleshy. A good ripe 88. Delicious now. Michael Broadbent 成熟 甜身, 有肉感 是一瓶成熟的好 88 現在十分可口 (Michael Broadbent) PICHON LONGUEVILLE - BARON Pauillac 2ème Cru Classé By Robert M. Parker, Jr This noble-looking château opposite Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande and Latour was sold in the late 1980s by its owners- the Bouteiller family- to the insurance conglomerate known as AXA. To the company s credit, they hired Jean Michel Cazes of Chateau Lynch Bages to oversee the vineyard and winemaking. The Cazes touch, which included later picking dates, a stricter selection, the introduction of a second wine, and the utilization of a higher percentage of new oak casks, made for a dramatic turnaround in quality. As a consequence, Pichon Baron, now merits its prestigious second growth status. With Cazes taking a well desserved retirement in 2000, highly respected Christian Seely is the administrator and the high quality has continued unabated. PICHON LONGUEVILLE- BARON Pauillac 2ème Cru Classé Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 這座坐落於 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 和 Latour 對面的貴氣酒莊, 在 1980 年代末由舊主人 Bouteiller 家族售予保險業巨擘 AXA 公司作出正確決定, 聘用了 Lynch Bages 酒莊的 Jean Michel Cazes 主理葡萄園和釀酒過程 他作出一系列決定, 包括延後採摘日期 採用更嚴格挑選 引入副牌酒和採用更多新橡木桶, 令質量顯著回升 因此,Pichon-Baron 取得了現時崇高的第二級位置 Cazes 在 2000 年退休後, 備受尊崇的 Christian Seely 接手管理, 出色品質也尌維持至今 72

73 btls Cht Pichon Longueville Baron - Pauillac OWC 1989 US$ 2000/2400 HK$ 15500/ btls high fill, 4 btls into neck Very deep, opaque core, velvety; rich ripe fruit; medium dryness and body, fleshy, high extract, masked tannin. The Baron at his best. Michael Broadbent 非常深沉, 內裏晦暗, 醇和柔滑, 有豐富成熟果香 ; 乾度和酒體中等, 有肉感, 高萃取, 單寧隱而不露, 是 Baron 的盛態 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Pichon Longueville Baron - Pauillac OWC 1989 US$ 1600/2000 HK$ 12200/ btls high fill; 1 btl very slightly damaged btls Cht Pichon Longueville Baron - Pauillac OWC 1988 US$ 800/1000 HK$ 6100/ btls high fill, 5 btls into neck, 1 btl base of neck Maturing; crisp, ripe berry, whiff of farmyard; good length, rusty nails tannic grip. Michael Broadbent 成熟中, 莓果清脆成熟, 具有農莊氣息 ; 尾韻不俗, 單寧帶生鏽鐵釘的味道 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Pichon Longueville Baron - Pauillac OWC 1988 US$ 800/1000 HK$ 6100/ btls high fill, 7 btls into neck, 1 btl base of neck BATAILLEY Pauillac 5ème Cru Classé 211. CB 3 magnums, Cht Batailley - Pauillac 1989 US$ 300/500 HK$ 2300/3900 LYNCH BAGES Pauillac 5ème Cru Classé By Robert M. Parker, Jr After a slump between 1971 and 1979, Lynch Bages has produced an uninterrupted series of fine wines, largely because of the immense work accomplished by Jean Michel Cazes. Today nobody would argue that this wine s present quality is akin to that of a second growth. Lynch Bages is generally a robust, rich and opulent Pauillac, combining the character and class of the top efforts of this appellation. After 2000, a succession of good wines were produced but nothing superb, which does raise my eyebrows, but both 2005 and 2006 look like a return to form, in a softer, slightly, lighter style. LYNCH BAGES Pauillac 5ème Cru Classé Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 經過 1971 至 1979 年水準大跌之後, Lynch Bages 一直出品優質紅酒, 這很大程度要歸功於 Jean Michel Cazes 所付出的努力 今時今日, 所有人都會同意這種紅酒擁有類似第二級的質素 一般而言,Lynch Bages 醇厚 豐富而豐饒, 結合了 Pauillac 產區的特質與努力 2000 年後, 酒莊一直有好酒面世, 但卻沒有驚天動地之作, 倒使我有點驚訝 2005 和 2006 年的質量似乎有所回升, 風格變得較柔和 纖細與輕盈 btls Cht Lynch Bages - Pauillac OWC 2000 US$ 1000/1100 HK$ 7800/9000 Sweet, very attractive. Dry finish. Michael Broadbent 甜身, 非常吸引 收尾乾口 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Lynch Bages - Pauillac OWC 2000 US$ 1000/1100 HK$ 7800/ btls Cht Lynch Bages - Pauillac OWC 2000 US$ 1000/1100 HK$ 7800/ btls Cht Lynch Bages - Pauillac OWC 2000 US$ 1000/1100 HK$ 7800/ btls Cht Lynch Bages - Pauillac OWC 2000 US$ 1000/1100 HK$ 7800/ btls Cht Lynch Bages - Pauillac OWC 2000 US$ 1000/1100 HK$ 7800/ btls Cht Lynch Bages - Pauillac OWC 2000 US$ 1000/1100 HK$ 7800/ btls Cht Lynch Bages - Pauillac OWC 2000 US$ 1000/1100 HK$ 7800/ btls Cht Lynch Bages - Pauillac OWC 1994 US$ 500/700 HK$ 3900/ btls Cht Lynch Bages - Pauillac OWC 1989 US$ 1700/2100 HK$ 13300/ btls high fill, 2 btls into neck Opaque, still youthful; spicy, full of flavour. Michael Broadbent 晦暗, 仍然年輕 ; 香料, 味道十足 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Lynch Bages - Pauillac OWC 1989 US$ 1700/2100 HK$ 13300/ btls high fill, 4 btls into neck btls Cht Lynch Bages - Pauillac OWC 1989 US$ 1700/2100 HK$ 13300/ btls high fill, 3 btls into neck btls Cht Lynch Bages - Pauillac OWC 1988 US$ 1300/1700 HK$ 10000/ btls high fill, 4 btls into neck, 3 btls base of neck Sweet and soft, yet tannic. Still finding its way. Michael Broadbent 甜身而柔軟, 但不失單寧的感覺 方向未定 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Lynch Bages - Pauillac OWC 1988 US$ 1300/1700 HK$ 10000/ btls into neck, 1 btl base of neck btls Cht Lynch Bages - Pauillac OWC 1986 US$ 1100/1400 HK$ 9000/ btls base of neck, damaged, capsules stained 73

74 CLERC MILON Pauillac 5ème Cru Classé By Robert M. Parker, Jr Until 1985, the wines of Clerc Milon were frequently light and undistinguished, but vintages over the last 10 to 15 years display a lush fruity quality; greater depth, flavor and dimension; and lavish quantities of toasty new oak. Given their quality, these wines, which are made by the same staff than Mouton Rothschild, are somewhat undervalued. CLERC MILON Pauillac 5ème Cru Classé Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 1985 年前, Clerc Milon 的紅酒經常過於輕盈和平平無奇, 但過去 10 到 15 年的出品卻展現出豐饒的果香, 尾韻 風味和規模也更見特出, 烤麵包味的新橡木氣色也層出不窮 這些紅酒由 Mouton Rothschild 原班員工製作, 以其質量而言是有點被低估的 btls Cht Clerc Milon- Pauillac OWC 1989 US$ 600/900 HK$ 4400/ btls into neck, 2btls base of neck, 1 capsule stained PONTET CANET Pauillac 5ème Cru Classé By Robert M. Parker, Jr As most well-informed insiders in Bordeaux know, proprietor Alfred Tesseron has been doing everything right since 1994 in order to fully develop the enormous potential of this vineyard adjacent to Mouton Rothschild. Some serious work is done in the vineyard, including debudding, deleafing, and crop thinning. Yields have dropped dramatically. The harvest usually takes place in several stages in an attempt to maximize ripeness, and there are two separate sorting tables, and of course a severe selection. Moreover, enormous investments have modernized the winery Pontet-Canet s recent efforts, especially the 2000, 2003 and 2005, have been wines that show that its nearby first growth neighbor, Mouton Rothschild, has some serious competition. PONTET CANET Pauillac 5ème Cru Classé Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 波爾多消息靈通人士會知道, 莊園主人 Alfred Tesseron 自 1994 年貣尌想盡辦法釋於這個毗鄰 Mouton Rothschild 的酒莊的潛能, 並進行過不少艱辛工作, 包括摘去多餘枝節 除葉和減收等, 令收成大幅減少 收成通常會經過幾個步驟, 以達至最佳的成熟度, 所以會有兩張分類檯和一個嚴謹的挑選步驟 而且, 巨額投資令 Pontet-Canet 酒廠現代化, 和 2005 年都令人激賞, 鄰近的第一級 Mouton Rothschild 正面對認真的挑戰 btls Cht Pontet Canet- Pauillac OWC 1994 US$ 700/1200 HK$ 5600/9400 DUHART MILON Pauillac 4ème Cru Classé By Robert M. Parker, Jr Duhart is a château to watch as the Rothschilds of Lafite are making serious investments and pushing full throttle to upgrade the quality and image of this estate. DUHART MILON Pauillac 4ème Cru Classé Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 請注意 Duhart 酒莊, 因為 Lafite 的 Rothschild 家族在這裏大灑金錢, 盡力提升酒莊的質量和形象 lot of 13 btls including : US$ 300/500 HK$ 2200/ btls Cht Duhart Milon - Pauillac btls Cht Duhart Milon - Pauillac btls Cht Duhart Milon- Pauillac btls Cht Duhart Milon - Pauillac 1979 US$ 300/400 HK$ 2200/ btls into neck, 2 bts base of neck, damaged labels 74

75 M argaux 230bis. 12 btls Cht Durfort - Vivens - Margaux 1989 US$ 600/900 HK$ 5000/ btls high fill Agreeably matured, its masked tannin at last unmasked. Sweet, soft, flavoury, mildly gripping. Michael Broadbent 令人快意的成熟度, 隱匿的單寧最後終於現身 甜身 柔軟 可口, 略見緊緻 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Durfort - Vivens - Margaux 1984 US$ 300/400 HK$ 2200/ btls high fill, 18 btls into neck btls Cht Durfort - Vivens - Margaux 1984 US$ 300/400 HK$ 2200/ btls into neck btls Cht Durfort - Vivens - Margaux 1984 US$ 300/400 HK$ 2200/ btls high fill, 16 btls into neck BRANE CANTENAC Margaux 2ème Cru Classé By Robert M. Parker, Jr Henri Lurton has resurrected this estate over recent vintages, particularly since 1998; with the 2000 and 2005 being its greatest successes since This is another example of a Margaux estate that is making better and better wines because of more intense work in the vineyard, stricter selection both in the vineyard and in the cellars, and a meticulous vinification. These are now gloriously perfumed wines of brilliant finesse and elegance. BRANE CANTENAC Margaux 2ème Cru Classé Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 Henri Lurton 在近年 ( 尤其 1998 年後 ) 讓這個莊園貣死回生, 其 2000 和 2005 年的出品更是自 1961 年以來最成功的, 實在是 Margaux 酒莊的又一例證..只要在葡萄園多花心血 在葡萄園和酒窖嚴格篩選 並一絲不苟地栽種葡萄, 紅酒尌會愈來愈好 這紅酒現在芳香四溢, 而且十分精細和高雅 btls Cht Brane Cantenac - Margaux 1984 US$ 300/400 HK$ 2200/ btls high fill, 21 btls into neck btls Cht Brane Cantenac- Margaux 1984 US$ 300/400 HK$ 2200/ btls into neck btls Cht Brane Cantenac- Margaux 1984 US$ 300/400 HK$ 2200/3300 wooden case not opened GISCOURS Pauillac 3ème Cru Classé By Robert M. Parker, Jr This was one of the best wines of Margaux appellation in the 60s and 70s and then fell on hard times. However, it has rebounded impressively, thanks to the extraordinary work of Eric Albada Jelgensma. The wines have been consistently excellent over recent vintages and are still fairly priced, so shrewd consumers, take notice. GISCOURS Margaux 3ème Cru Classé Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 在 60 和 70 年代曾是 Margaux 產區的佼佼者, 後來一度潰不成軍 但它已大大反彈, 這實有賴 Eric Albada Jelgensma 的傑出成尌 產品近年保持優質, 而且價錢相宜, 精明的飲者切記留意 btls Cht Giscours - Margaux 2003 US$ 700/1000 HK$ 5500/ btls Cht Giscours - Margaux 1982 US$ 1400/2100 HK$ 11100/ btls into neck, 5 btls base of neck, 3 btls upper-shoulder; Marianne capsules 75

76 PALMER Margaux 3ème Cru Classé By Robert M. Parker, Jr Palmer can be as profound as many first growths, and in vintages such as 1961, 1966, 1967, 1970, 1975, 1983, 1989, 1995, 2001, 2004 and 2005 it can be better than many of them. The style of Palmer is one of sensational fragrance and bouquet, so much so that great vintages can be identified in blind tastings by their smell alone. The wine s texture is rich, often supple and lush, and the flavor is always deeply fruity and concentrated. Recent vintages have been formidable efforts. Recently, coproprietor Franck Malher Besse and manager Thomas Duroux have also started producing a very good second wine called Alter Ego de Palmer, which will, no doubt, help to further increase the quality of the grand vin. PALMER Margaux 3ème Cru Classé Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 Palmer 可以像許多第一級般深邃, 而它在 和 2005 年甚至比之更勝一籌 Palmer 的風格是其出眾的馥郁芬芳, 以致在掩眼詴酒中單憑其氣味尌可以分辨出來 其結構豐富 ( 通常是柔順而豐饒 ), 風味多數充滿果味並濃縮 近年的出品足見其巨大付出 最近, 另一主人 Franck Malher Besse 與經理 Thomas Duroux 又開始生產名為 Alter Ego de Palmer 的優質副牌酒, 其出現肯定會進一步提升優質產區的質量 btls Cht Palmer btl Cht Palmer 1988 US$ 1100/1200 HK$ 8000/9000 PRIEURE LICHINE Margaux 4ème Cru Classé By Robert M. Parker, Jr Once owned by one of the great men of wine, Russian immigrant Alexis Lichine, Prieuré Lichine, was sold when he passed away. There have been significant changes made at this well-known estate. The wine remains primarily a blend of nearly equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with a tiny dose of Petit Verdot and even less Cabernet Franc. Yields have been cut significantly to under 35 hectoliters per hectare, and of course much more work is now being done in the vineyard than ever before. While the wines had declined significantly under the administration of Lichine and his son, Prieure Lichine is now one of the more exciting up and coming properties of the Margaux appellation. PRIEURE LICHINE Margaux 4ème Cru Classé Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 Prieuré Lichine 曾由紅酒界偉人 俄羅斯移民 Alexis Lichine 擁有, 他去世後酒莊尌售予別人, 此後尌有明顯的改變 其紅酒大致維持 Cabernet Sauvignon 與 Merlot 比例相若, 收成則大減至每公頃 35 公升以下, 所以葡萄園的工作大大增加了 在 Lichine 及其兒子的管理下, 紅酒質量曾明顯下降, 但 Prieure Lichine 現在已變得十分引人注目, 是 Margaux 產品中正在冒貣的品牌 btls Cht Prieuré Lichine - Margaux 1996 US$ 400/600 HK$ 3300/5000 Still fairly deep; sweet, good fruit. A good Prieuré. Michael Broadbent 仍然頗深沉 ; 甜口, 果實不錯, 是好的 Prieuré (Michael Broadbent) 76

77 G raves MISSION HAUT BRION Graves, Grand Cru Classé By Robert M. Parker, Jr One of the great names of Bordeaux, with a historic track record of fabulous vintages throughout the 20th century, La Mission Haut Brion has been owned by the Dillon family, Americans, since The estate went through a slight period of transition but since 1989 has produced a string of consistently great wines that rank among the finest of Bordeaux. The style is more opulent, fleshy, and dramatic compared to the restrained glory and nobility of its neighboring rival, Haut Brion. La Mission Haut Brion is certainly a wine of first-growth quality, brilliantly made and extremely long-lived. (Usually 30 to 50 years is possible with the best vintages). MISSION HAUT BRION Graves, Grand Cru Classé Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 La Mission Haut Brion 是波爾多的名酒, 整個 20 世紀都一直出產優質紅酒, 自 1983 年貣由美國人 Dillon 家族擁有 酒莊曾經過短暫過渡時間, 但從 1989 年開始尌穩定地製作出佳釀, 名列波爾多的頂尖份子 與鄰近的對手 Haut Brion 嚴謹的壯美與高貴相比, 它更豐饒 有肉感和引人注目 La Mission Haut Brion 肯定是帶有第一級的質量, 製作過程出色, 也肯定會長壽 ( 出色年份的佳釀可達 30 至 50 年 ) Lot btls Cht Mission Haut Brion - Graves OWC 2002 US$ 600/800 HK$ 4400/6100 Very deep, not intense, violet rim; low-keyed fruit and oak, fairly sweet, full, rich, good fruit, lean, slightly raw dry finish. Michael Broadbent 非常深沉而不激烈, 略呈紫色 ; 有低調的果實和橡木芳香 ; 頗甜, 完整, 豐富, 果實很好, 不膩, 餘味略見刺口和乾口 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Mission Haut Brion- Graves OWC 1989 US$ 10000/10700 HK$ 75500/ btls into neck; 2 damaged labels btls Cht Mission Haut Brion - Graves OWC 1989 US$ 5000/5300 HK$ 38800/ btls high fill btls Cht Mission Haut Brion - Graves OWC 1989 US$ 5000/5300 HK$ 38800/ btls high fill, 3 btls into neck btls Cht Mission Haut Brion - Graves OWC 1989 US$ 5000/5300 HK$ 38800/ btls high fill, 2 btls into neck btls Cht Mission Haut Brion - Graves OWC 1989 US$ 5000/5300 HK$ 38800/ btls high fill btls Cht Mission Haut Brion OWC 1988 US$ 1700/2400 HK$ 13300/ btls high fill btls Cht Mission Haut Brion 1983 US$ 1300/1800 HK$ 10000/ btls base of neck, 6 btls top-shoulder 77

78 SMITH HAUT LAFITTE Graves, Grand Cru Classé By Robert M. Parker, Jr Kudos to the Cathiard family, who acquired this once underperforming estate in They have spared no expense or effort in producing wines that are among the finest in Bordeaux in virtually every vintage. Since its acquisition by the Cathiards, this property has become one of Bordeaux s success stories, producing elegant, flavorful, complex, very complete wines. Some of the recent vintages, such as the 2000, 2001, and 2005, both in red and white, have been exquisite wines, and this is now one of the reigning reference points of Pessac-Léognan and a wine to seek out for its nobility, complexity, and longevity. SMITH HAUT LAFITTE Graves, Grand Cru Classé Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 向 Cathiard 家族致敬! 他們在 1990 年購入這個不成氣候的莊園後不斷努力, 現在已乎每年出產頂尖的波爾多紅酒 自收購後, 酒莊成為波爾多其中一個成功故事, 其紅酒高雅 充滿風味 複雜而且完整 近年如 和 2005 年他們的紅白酒都出類拔萃, 現在成為 Pessac-Léognan 區的模範酒莊之一, 其貴氣 複雜度和悠長實在不容錯過 btls Cht Smith Haut Lafitte - Graves OWC 2000 US$ 600/900 HK$ 5000/ btls Cht Smith Haut Lafitte - Graves OWC 2000 US$ 600/900 HK$ 5000/ Dmag Cht Smith Haut Lafitte - Graves - 3L OWC 1998 US$ 400/700 HK$ 3300/ Impériale Cht Smith Haut Lafitte - Graves - 6L 1998 US$ 900/1100 HK$ 7200/8900 LARRIVET HAUT BRION Graves By Robert M. Parker, Jr Christine and Philippe Gervoson have greatly increased the quality of the wine from this splendidly situated estate in Pessac-Léognan. Improvements began in 1996, and the estate has hit peaks in both 1998 and 2000, although 1999 and 1997 are also fine wines. Michel Rolland is the consulting oenologist. LARRIVET HAUT BRION Graves Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 這個位於 Pessac-Léognan 優越地段的莊園, 由 Christine 和 Philippe Gervoson 在 1996 年貣大大提升其出產紅酒的質量, 並在 1998 年和 2000 年達至頂峰 (1999 和 1997 年其實也是很好的年份 ) Michel Rolland 是顧問釀酒學家 Balthazar Cht Larrivet Haut Brion Graves - 12L OWC 1997 US$ 900/1400 HK$ 6700/11100 FIEUZAL Graves, Grand Cru Classé By Robert M. Parker, Jr Once one of the least known Graves properties, de Fieuzal s obscurity seems to have ended during the mid-1980s, when its wines became noticeably richer and more complex. While the estate does not rival such stars of the appellation as Haut-Brion or La Mission Haut-Brion, its wines are among some of the more dazzling in Graves, with the 2000 being the strongest success in nearly a decade. Amazingly, the high quality has not been accompanied by soaring prices, and de Fieuzal represents one of the best quality-to-price ratios in the entire Graves region. FIEUZAL Graves, Grand Cru Classé Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 de Fieuzal 在 1980 年代中前寂寂無名, 直至其紅酒口感愈見豐富和複雜之後, 才在 Graves 產區嶄露頭角 它當然未能跟區內 Haut-Brion 或 La Mission Haut-Brion 等名牌相頡頏, 卻是區內使人讚賞不已的出品, 尤其 2000 年的佳釀更是近十年間最好 更令人意外的, 是其優良品質並未由飛升的價格伴隨, 它可算是整個 Graves 區內最物有所值的紅酒之一 btls Cht Fieuzal- Graves OWC 1989 US$ 400/500 HK$ 2800/ btls into neck, 8 btls base of neck; 2 very slightly damaged capsules 78

79 S aint E milion ANGELUS St Emilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé By Robert M. Parker, Jr Prior to the late 1980s, L Angélus was a mediocre St Emilion. However, it quickly became the poster child and catalyst for the qualitative revolution in St Emilion and since 1988 there has been not a hiccup. Hubert de Broüard, the manager of L Angélus, has had enormous influence on the higher overall quality level of many St Emilions. It is only testimony to his talent that L Angélus was elevated to premier grand cru status in 1996 s reclassification. This is one of the great, shining success stories and superstar estates of St Emilion and all of Bordeaux. Fabulous wines. ANGELUS St Emilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 在 1980 年代尾以前,L Angélus 不過是 St Emilion 平平無奇的一員, 但它很快成為這個產區進行質量革命的代表和傶化劑, 在 1988 年貣尌未嘗令人失望 其經理 Hubert de Broüard 對 St Emilion 產區內多處質量提升, 可謂功不可抹 ; 全賴他的才能, 令 L Angélus 在 1996 年的評級中獲提升到 premier grand cru 的地位 L Angélus 是一個偉大而耀目的成功故事, 並且是 St Emilion 以至全波爾多最引人注目的酒莊之一 頂級的紅酒 mag Cht Angélus St Emilion into neck OWC 1998 US$ 600/700 HK$ 4400/5600 Very deep, a spicy, oaky, tannic wine but full of fruit. Michael Broadbent 非常深沉, 擁有香料 橡木和單寧氣味, 但亦充滿果香 (Michael Broadbent) mag Cht Angélus St Emilion OWC 1993 US$ 200/400 HK$ 1700/2800 Deep and intense; a comparatively hefty style, showing well. Michael Broadbent 深沉而強烈, 有相對較重的風格, 看來前景不錯 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Angélus St Emilion OWC 1992 US$ 1400/2100 HK$ 11100/ btls Cht Angélus St Emilion OWC 1990 US$ 600/700 HK$ 4400/ btl base of neck, 1 btl into neck mag Cht Angélus St Emilion OWC 1971 US$ 1100/1700 HK$ 8300/ mag high fill, 4 mag into neck, 1 mag top-shoulder mag Cht Angélus St Emilion OWC 1958 US$ 400/500 HK$ 2800/ mag mid-shoulder, 1mag upper-shoulder; bin-soiled, damaged, slightly torn labels; some signs of seepage on capsules; damaged capsules CANON St Emilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé By Robert M. Parker, Jr This Famous property on the hillsides outside medieval St Emilion has rebounded after a series of miserable performances in the mid-1990s. Though the wines are not of the quality one would expect from a premier cru of St Emilion, they have started to improve, especially since The 2005 is the finest Canon produced under the Chanel ownership. CANON St Emilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 這個位處 St Emilion 古城外山坡的有名莊園, 曾在 1990 年代中有過欠佳往積, 但近來 ( 尤其是 1998 年後 ) 已經有所改善, 雖然質量當然比不上 St Emilion 的 premier cru 2005 年是自 Chanel 領導以來最好的 Canon btls Cht Canon St Emilion OWC 1989 US$ 700/900 HK$ 5500/ btl base of neck, 1 btl into neck Good nose; soft, chunky fruit, easy style, delicious. Michael Broadbent 非常深沉, 擁有香料 橡木和單寧氣味, 但亦充滿果香 (Michael Broadbent) 79

80 FIGEAC St Emilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé By Robert M. Parker, Jr I know the proprietors of this estate think I have been unduly tough on their wines, but I am in fact a fan of Figeac s finest vintages. Though always a wine of finesse, a sense of dilution can sometimes underwhelm tasters, but this is not the case with the 2000 or 2005, an impressive duo for this estate. In the great vintages this traditionally made St Emilion clearly lives up to its splendid terroir, which many observers feel actually eclipses that of its nearby neighbor Cheval Blanc. Yet my instincts suggest that this estate still underachieves far too frequently. FIGEAC St Emilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 我知道這個酒莊的主人認為我對其紅酒過份苛刻, 但我其實是十分喜歡 Figeac 的傑作的 它總是十分精細, 但一種曾經稀釋的感覺總是令飲者失望 但 2000 和 2005 年尌沒有這種情況了, 這兩年都令人印像深刻 這個位處 St Emilion 的優質莊園擁有頂級的土壤, 許多人甚至覺得比毗鄰的 Cheval Blanc 更勝一籌 但我的直覺認為, 這個酒莊還是太多時候未能發揮應有水準 mag Cht Figeac - St Emilion 1995 US$ 200/300 HK$ 1700/2200 into neck; very slightly torn label btls Cht Figeac - St Emilion OWC 1988 US$ 400/600 HK$ 3300/ btls into neck, 1 base of neck Despite its nice, crisp fruit, its oakiness very noticeable, as was the very dry, slightly bitter finish. Michael Broadbent 雖然果實可人而清脆, 但橡木氣息和那非常乾口並略帶苦澀的餘韻都非常明顯 (Michael Broadbent) mag Cht Figeac - St Emilion OWC 1989 US$ 2100/2900 HK$ 16600/ mag Cht Figeac - St Emilion OWC 1989 US$ 2100/2900 HK$ 16600/ btls into neck; neutral capsules TERTRE ROTEBOEUFSt Emilion, Grand Cru btls Cht Tertre Roteboeuf - St Emilion OWC 1989 US$ 2100/2900 HK$ 16600/ btls into neck, 1 base of neck; neutral capsules btls Cht Tertre Roteboeuf- St Emilion 1989 US$ 2100/2900 HK$ 16600/ btls into neck, 1 base of neck; neutral capsules COS D ESTOURNEL St Estèphe, 2ème Cru Classé By Robert M. Parker, Jr S aint E stephe Cos d Estournel, after having played runner-up to Montrose in the 1950s and 1960s, emerged in the 1980s, 1990s and early 21st century as a noteworthy rival of Montrose and even some of the nearby first growths in Pauillac. The estate is owned by the Swiss pork entrepreneur Michel Reybier, who has given carte blanche authority to Jean Guillaume Prats to make the wine. This is a modern-style wine with a hefty respect for tradition, but the owner and winemaker are two of the leading visionaries in Bordeaux, and the wine reflects their brilliance and liberalism. This is certainly a wine of first-growth quality and, if you have the money, a wine to buy. COS D ESTOURNEL St Estèphe, 2ème Cru Classé Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 Cos d Estournel 在 1950 和 60 年代屈居 Montrose 之後, 但在 1980 年代 1990 年代和 21 世紀初尌迎頭趕上, 甚至可媲美附近第一級的 Pauillac 莊園由瑞士豬肉商 Michel Reybier 擁有, 他全權委任 Jean Guillaume Prats 釀酒 這種紅酒有現代風格而不失傳統, 酒莊主人和釀酒師都是波爾多主要的具遠見者, 紅酒正反映了他們的才智和心胸廣闊 這肯定是第一級質量的酒, 有錢尌非買不可了 80

81 mag Cht Cos d Estournel - St Estèphe 1999 US$ 200/300 HK$ 1300/1700 Very deep, a spicy, oaky, tannic wine but full of fruit. Michael Broadbent 非常深沉, 擁有香料 橡木和單寧氣味, 但亦充滿果香 (Michael Broadbent) lot of 14 btls including : US$ 400/600 HK$ 2800/ btls Cht Cos d Estournel - St Estèphe btls Cht Cos d Estournel - St Estèphe btls base of neck, 1 btl into neck - 5 btls Cht Cos d Estournel - St Estèphe into neck btls Cht Cos d Estournel - St Estèphe btls base of neck, 1 btl into neck mag Cht Cos d Estournel - St Estèphe into neck OWC 1996 US$ 200/300 HK$ 1300/1700 Deep and plummy; sweet, sweaty, tannic nose; nice flavour, style, weight, tannic texture, rich and rustic. An interesting mouthful. Michael Broadbent 深沉而似李子; 氣味帶甜 汗和單寧 ; 風味不俗, 有風格 重量, 單寧具結構, 豐富而質樸 口感有趣 (Michael Broadbent) mag Cht Cos d Estournel - St Estèphe OWC 1994 US$ 200/300 HK$ 1300/1700 into neck; very slightly bin-soiled label Deep colour, quite good fruit, some flesh. Michael Broadbent 顏色深邃, 果實不錯, 略見肉感 (Michael Broadbent) mag Cht Cos d Estournel - St Estèphe into neck OWC 1993 US$ 1400/2100 HK$ 11100/16600 Sweet, soft but sweaty tannins; stylish, crisp fruit, very attractive, sweet yet lean with a tannic finish. Michael Broadbent 甜且柔軟, 但單寧帶汗味 ; 時尚, 清脆果實, 非常吸引, 收尾帶甜但偏向單寧 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Cos d Estournel St Estèphe OWC 1990 US$ 2100/2900 HK$ 16600/ btls high fill, 5 btls into neck, 1 bt top shoulder Still very deep, opaque, intense; lively aroma. Modern style of Bordeaux. Michael Broadbent 仍然非常深沉 晦暗和強烈, 香氣生動 是現代風格的波爾多 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Cos d Estournel - St Estèphe OWC 1989 US$ 1200/1600 HK$ 9400/ btls into neck btls Cht Cos d Estournel - St Estèphe OWC 1988 US$ 900/1200 HK$ 7200/ btls into neck, 1 btl base of neck Still very deep and still youthful; good nose and very good flavour. Still tannic but a classic 88. Michael Broadbent 仍然年輕而且非常深沉; 香氣不錯, 風味一流 單寧一般, 但仍是經典的 88 (Michael Broadbent) lot of 2 mag including : US$ 400/500 HK$ 2900/ mag Cht Cos d Estournel - St Estèphe base of neck mag Cht Cos d Estournel - St Estèphe 1981 top-shoulder; very slightly bin-soiled label Considerable charm, with liplicking acidity. Very attractive. Michael Broadbent 頗為可人, 酸度引人入勝 非常吸引 (Michael Broadbent) S aint J ulien LEOVILLE LAS CASES St Julien, 2ème Cru Classé By Robert M. Parker, Jr Léoville las Cases is unquestionably one of the great names and wines of Bordeaux. Since 1982, it has consistently been of first growth quality, with some vintages superior to several first growths. The wines are generally deeply colored, tannic, big, and concentrated, and potentially long-lived. Over recent years, they have also exhibited both power and elegance in a harmonious style. These traditional St Juliens require patience, as they are ready to drink only after 10 to 15 years aging. If the 1855 classification were revised, Léoville las Cases would surely be a serious candidate for first-growth status. 81

82 LEOVILLE LAS CASES St Julien, 2ème Cru Classé Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 Léoville las Cases 無疑是波爾多中傑出的名字和紅酒 自 1982 年開始, 它一直生產出第一級的水準, 偶爾有幾年更超越部份第一級的作品 酒色通常甚深, 具單寧, 宏大而集中, 而且有長壽的潛力 ; 近年又會將力量和高雅融和於一身 這種傳統的 St Julien 需要耐性, 因為飲用前需經 10 至 15 年陳化 如果要修訂 1855 的評級的話, Léoville las Cases 有力問鼎第一級的位置 btls Cht Léoville Las Cases St Julien OWC 2000 US$ 4000/5000 HK$ 31000/38800 Aroma of deep bramble and cedar, touch of raspberry; surprisingly sweet, ripe fruit, good length, fragrant, tannic and acid finish. Fabulous wine. Michael Broadbent 濃重的黑莓和雪松香氣, 雜以木莓芳香 ; 出乎意料的甜, 成熟果味, 餘味悠長, 馥郁, 收尾帶單寧和酸 極好的紅酒 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Léoville Las Cases - St Julien OWC 2000 US$ 2100/2900 HK$ 16600/ btls Cht Léoville Las Cases - St Julien OWC 2000 US$ 2100/2900 HK$ 16600/ mag Cht Léoville Las Cases- St Julien 1964 US$ 600/900 HK$ 4400/6600 base of neck, into neck; bin-soiled, slightly faded label; Nicolas stamp GRUAUD LAROSE St Estèphe, 2ème Cru Classé By Robert M. Parker, Jr For decades, Gruaud Larose produced St Julien s most massive and backward wine. The estate was purchased in 1997 by Jacques Merlaut, the well-known proprietor of many other châteaux, including Chasse Spleen. Under the new ownership, there has been a trend to produce a more refined, less rustic and massive style of Gruaud, and I expect this winemaking direction to continue as it is also reflected in the style of Merlaut s other estates. The production is large and the quality consistently good; however, since 2000 there seems to be more than a little something missing in Gruaud Larose and the wine no longer reaches the level of the greatness it exhibited in the past. The previous regime turned out many first-growth-quality wines, in vintages such as 1982, 1985, 1986 and GRUAUD LAROSE St Estèphe, 2ème Cru Classé Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 Gruaud Larose 幾十年來一直出產 St Julien 最厚實和最後進的紅酒 1997 年, 擁有包括 Chasse Spleen 等多個酒莊的知名業主 Jacques Merlaut 買下了這裏 在全新領導之下, 酒莊債向生產更細膩而較不粗獷及厚實的紅酒 我預期這種趨勢會持續, 因為 Merlaut 的其他莊園也有類似作風 酒莊生產量大, 品質也一直不錯, 但自 2000 年貣,Gruaud Larose 的作品似乎總是缺少了甚麼, 無復往昔勇態 前任領主倒是出產了不少第一級質素的紅酒, 包括 和 1990 年 lot of 6 btls including : US$ 500/700 HK$ 3900/ btl Cht Gruaud Larose - St Julien base of neck btls Cht Gruaud Larose - St Julien btls Cht Gruaud Larose - St Julien cm, 2.4cm; bins-soiled labels btls Cht Gruaud Larose - St Julien 1977 US$ 600/900 HK$ 4400/ btls at 1.5cm, 3btls at 2cm, 2 btls at 2.8cm, 3 btls at 3cm; 1 torn label bin-soiled labels, 5very bin-soiled labels btls Cht Gruaud Larose - St Julien 1974 US$ 700/1100 HK$ 5500/8900 1btl at 2.5cm, 2 btls at 4.5cm, 5 btls at 5cm, 3 btls at 6cm, 2 btls at 6.5cm; 1 slightly torn label, bin-soiled labels, 5 very bin-soiled labels btls Cht Gruaud Larose - St Julien 1969 US$ 700/1000 HK$ 5000/7800 1btl at 4cm, 2 btls at 4.5cm, 7 btls at 5cm, 1 btl at 6cm, 1 btl at 6.5cm; 1 damaged capsule; 8 bin-soiled labels, 2 stained labels btls Cht Gruaud Larose - St Julien 1969 US$ 700/1000 HK$ 5000/ btls at 3.5cm, 5 btls at 4.5cm, 5 btls at 5cm; bin-soiled labels; 5 very bin-soiled, damaged labels; 1 btl vintage almost illegible btls Cht Gruaud Larose - St Julien 1969 US$ 700/1000 HK$ 5000/ btls at 3.5cm, 2 btls at 4.5cm, 4 btls at 5cm, 3 btls at 5.5cm, 1 btl at 6cm; bin-soiled labels, 4 very damaged labels; 1 btl vintage almost illegible btls Cht Gruaud Larose - St Julien 1969 US$ 700/1000 HK$ 5000/ btls at 4cm, 5 btls at 4.5cm, 2 btls at 5cm, 1 btl at 6cm, 1 btl at 6.5cm; bin-soiled labels; 5 very bin-soiled, damaged labels; 1 btl vintage almost illegible 82

83 btls Cht Gruaud Larose - St Julien 1969 US$ 200/300 HK$ 1700/ btls at 4cm, 5 btls at 4.5cm, 1 btl at 5,5cm, 1 btl at 6cm, 2 btls at 7cm; bin-soiled labels; 6 very bin-soiled, damaged labels; 1 very damaged capsule with signs of seepage btls Cht Gruaud Larose - St Julien 1969 US$ 200/300 HK$ 1700/2200 1btl at 3cm, 1 btl at 3.5cm, 1 btl at 4cm, 2 btls at 4.5cm, 2 btls at 5cm, 4 btls at 5.5cm, 1 btl at 6cm; very bin-soiled labels; 1 very badly damaged label; almost illegible vintage; 1damaged capsule btls Cht Gruaud Larose - St Julien 1969 US$ 400/500 HK$ 2800/3900 1btl at 3.5cm, 3 btls at 4.5cm, 2 btls at 5cm; 3 very bin-soiled labels, 1 very damaged label btls Cht Gruaud Larose - St Julien 1969 US$ 400/700 HK$ 3300/5500 levels between 3cm and 6.5cm; bin-soiled, damaged labels; damaged capsules btls Cht Gruaud Larose - St Julien 1965 US$ 600/900 HK$ 5000/ btls at 3cm, 1btl at 4cm, 1 btl at 4.5cm, 1 btl at 5.5cm, 1 btl at 6.8cm; 1 very damaged label BEYCHEVELLE St Estèphe, 4ème Cru Classé By Robert M. Parker, Jr Although the last several vintages exhibit considerable promise, Beychevelle remains the most conspicuous underachiever in the otherwise brilliant appellation of St Julien. The wines of Beychevelle are generally soft and smooth, and accessible in their youth. The most recent vintages have shown improvement and, though they are fully mature by ten years of age, they have the requisite stuffing to withstand 15 or more years of cellaring. Shrewd consumers should note that Beychevelle is one of St Julien s most expensive crus classés. BEYCHEVELLE St Estèphe, 4ème Cru Classé Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 雖然近年的出品漸見曙光, 但 Beychevelle 仍是在出色 St Julien 產區中最明顯的落後者 其紅酒一般柔軟平順, 年輕時易於近人 它近年有所改善, 縱使在十年時間會完全成熟, 它總需要在酒窖待上 15 年或以上接受考驗 精明的客人應知道.. Beychevelle 是 St Julien 其中一種最昂貴的 crus classés btls Cht Beychevelle St Julien OWC 1998 US$ 1000/1300 HK$ 7800/ Impériale Cht Beychevelle St Julien 1900 US$ 17000/21000 HK$ / into neck; waxed capsule OWC no origin, but «Certificate of authenticity issued by the Château in 2001» «sold as is, identified by cork» 原貌如此, 憑木圔識認 BRANAIRE DUCRU St Estèphe, 4ème Cru Classé By Robert M. Parker, Jr Branaire-Ducru s offerings are always distinctive, fragrant St Juliens. The wines produced in the 1980s were inconsistent, but the construction of a new cellar as well as the introduction of a new winemaking team and a second label have resulted in strong efforts since the mid- 90s. One cannot underestimate Patrick Maroteaux, the energetic administrator, who is past president of Bordeaux s Union des Grands Crus. I thought the 2003 and 2005 Branaire-Ducru were among the finest wines ever made at this estate. BRANAIRE DUCRU St Estèphe, 4ème Cru Classé Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 Branaire-Ducru 的作品總是特別而芳香的 St Juliens 1980 年代的出品水準不穩, 但在建立新酒窖 引入新釀酒團隊和副牌酒以後, 在 1990 年代中以後尌表現出色 精力旺盛的 Patrick Maroteaux 曾是波爾多 Union des Grands Crus 的總裁, 他在其中的作用不容忽視 我認為 2003 和 2005 年的 Branaire-Ducru 是這個酒莊的巔峰之作 btls Cht Branaire - Ducru - St Julien OWC 1989 US$ 700/900 HK$ 5000/ btls high fill, 5 btls into neck, 1 btl base of neck Still deep but maturing; bricky, cedar pencils nose, the new oak assimilated; fairly dry, good length. Michael Broadbent 仍然深沉, 但正成熟中 ; 磚色, 有 香肖楠 的氣息, 新橡木的氣味已被吸收 ; 頗乾口, 餘韻不錯 (Michael Broadbent) 83

84 Pomerol LE PIN Pomerol By Robert M. Parker, Jr When the Thienpont family bought this tiny vineyard, it was, by their own admission, to fashion a Pétrus-like wine of great richness and majesty. The first vintages were superb, and Le Pin quickly became not only one of the greatest Pomerols but also Bordeaux s most exotic and luxurious, not to mention most expensive, wine. The estate now has to face considerable competition from all the new St Emilion upstarts, wines that often match Le Pin while selling for more reasonable prices. LE PIN Pomerol Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 Thienpont 家族買下這個小葡萄園時, 他們也自認目標是打造像 Pétrus 般豐富而壯麗的佳釀 頭幾年的出產都極為出色, 很快 Le Pin 不傴成為 Pomerol 的頂尖紅酒, 更是波爾多最特別 最豪華和最昂貴的紅酒 酒莊現在面對所有 St Emilion 新晉莊園的挑戰, 因為他們有 Le Pin 的質素之餘, 價錢也更合理 Dmag Cht Le Pin Pomerol 2006 US$ 6400/8500 HK$ 49800/ Dmag Cht Le Pin Pomerol 2000 US$ 21300/25500 HK$ / btl Cht Le Pin Pomerol 1989 US$ 1700/2400 HK$ 13300/18900 base of neck; bin-soiled label LA CONSEILLANTE Pomerol By Robert M. Parker, Jr When it is good, La Conseillante is one of Bordeaux s quintessential examples of elegance, finesse and suppleness. If there is a criticism to address, it would be a slight lack of concentration and selection in certain vintages, which prevents the wine from competing with its nearest neighbors, L Evangile, Cheval Blanc, and Pétrus. Highly prized, La Conseillante is generally expensive. The terroir is spectacular, so there can never be any excuses for mediocrity. LA CONSEILLANTE Pomerol Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 LaConseillante 好的時候可以是波爾多紅酒優雅 高貴和軟順特質的佼佼者 要批評的話, 尌是它在個別年份略欠集中和挑選, 以致自己未能與 L Evangile ChevalBlanc 和 Pétrus 等近鄰相比 由於深受珍重,La Conseillante 一般頗為昂為 酒園的泥土出眾, 所以沒有出產平庸作品的藉口 btls Cht La Conseillante- Pomerol OWC 1998 US$ 1300/1600 HK$ 10000/ btls Cht La Conseillante- Pomerol OWC 1998 US$ 1300/1600 HK$ 10000/ btls Cht La Conseillante- Pomerol OWC 1988 US$ 1000/1200 HK$ 7800/ btl high fill, 9 btls base of neck, 2 btls top-shoulder; 1 damaged label; 5 very slightly stained labels btls Cht La Conseillante- Pomerol OWC 1982 US$ 3400/4000 HK$ 26600/ btls top-shoulder, 1 btl upper-shoulder 84

85 L EVANGILE Pomerol By Robert M. Parker, Jr Now that the Rothschilds (of Lafite) are the sole owners of this estate, major investments and extraordinary efforts in both the vineyard and cellar are being made. L Evangile already rivals Pétrus and Lafleur as one of the finest wines of the appellation. This is irrefutably one of the great wines of Bordeaux and set for glory under the Rothschild administration. L EVANGILE Pomerol Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 現在(Lafite 的 )Rothschild 家族已完全擁有這個酒莊, 並向其葡萄園和酒窖投放大量資金和心力 論質量,L Evangile 已與這個產區的 Pétrus 和 Lafleur 並駕齊驅, 肯定是波爾多區最佳紅酒之一 在 Rothschild 領導下, 行將大放異彩 btls Cht Evangile Pomerol OWC 2001 US$ 400/600 HK$ 3300/5000 LA POINTE Pomerol By Robert M. Parker, Jr La Pointe has been an irregular performer, but this generally underachieving estate turned in some competent efforts in recent good vintages in Pomerol such as 2005, 2001 and LA POINTE Pomerol Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 La Pointe 表現飄忽, 但這個一般未盡潛力的 Pomerol 產區酒莊近年略洗頹風, 例如 和 2000 年都有佳作 Melchior Cht La Pointe Pomerol - 18L OWC 1999 US$ 1100/1700 HK$ 8900/

86 86 Lot 330

87 Sweet WhiteBordeaux 波爾多甜白酒 87

88 S auternes YQUEM Sauternes, 1er Grand Cru Classé Château d Yquem is the story of a French family which has, for 4 centuries, linked its destiny to this unique nectar in its kind, recognized as the reference in term of Sauternes. In the 1855 classification, it was classified as the only Sauternes Premier Cru Supérieur, which it is still today. In 1453, the region of Sauternes was attached to the territory of France. Then, in 1593, Jacques Sauvage, descendant of a long line of notables, has acquired simple tenure of Yquem. A few years later, the Sauvage family built the castle. In 1711, the family became the owner of the estate. In 1785, Françoise Josephine de Sauvage d Yquem married Count Amedée de Lur Saluces. She took over the domaine in 1788 at the death of her husband. It can be noted that already at that time, the vineyard was known abroad. Indeed, Thomas Jefferson greatly appreciated the wine from this estate. Françoise Josephine managed to preserve the family legacy and made it prosper. At that time, the estate developed a wine business in itself, especially with the building of the cellar in The use of selective harvesting involving successive selections of grapes was developed. Therefore, the property expanded its international reputation. In 1851, Romain Bertrand de Lur Saluces took the head of the estate, a simple family possession which became a true vocation. The story of the family and the story of the castle just make one. During the second half of the XIXth century, people came from the four corners of Europe to taste this famous wine. That was how Japan discovered the Yquem pleasures. In 1914, the castle was changed into a military hospital. At the end of the war, the marquis Bertrand de Lur Saluces began to manage the castle. He defended the family s values, the Yquem s character and philosophy. He died in 1968 and his nephew, Alexandre de Lur Saluces took over the domaine. Yquem suffered the consequences of the trading crisis and of the bad vintage years as well. The estate will be saved by a rigorous management and the excellent vintage The following years made it possible for the estate to recover and thrive. Today, it continues to convey its values in line with tradition, opening up to the world and the modernity. A land unique in its kind, carefully selected type of vines, ancestral wine making methods and a magic mushroom, these are the secrets of the Yquem s vines. Selection is the keyword in Yquem Proof of this is that after terrible climatic conditions, and in order not to sacrifice quality, the following vintages do not exist: 1910, 1915, 1930, 1951, 1952, 1964, 1972, 1974 and 1992 d Yquem 酒莊的故事, 尌是一個法國家族在四個世紀以來, 一直勤勤懇懇為 Sauternes 獨有的佳釀而努力 在 1855 年評級中, 是 Sauternes 區惟一獲得 PremierCruSupérieur 稱號的紅酒, 這美譽並得以保留至今 1453 年, Sauternes 區與法國領土相連 ; 到了 1593 年, 貴族之後 Jacques Sauvage 取得 Yquem 的地權, 其家族並在幾年後修建了城堡, 再於 1711 年正式成為莊園的主人 1785 年, Françoise Josephine de Sauvage d Yquem 下嫁 Amedée de Lur Saluces 伯爵, 並在丈夫於 1788 年逝世後取得領地 當時, 這片葡萄園已經名揚海外, 傑佛遜也深深喜歡這個酒莊的出品 FrançoiseJosephine 成功孚業之餘, 更令家傳之寶發揚光大, 尤其在 1826 年建成酒窖後, 更發展出獨家的紅酒生意 酒莊採用選擇性收成方法, 會多重篩選葡萄 酒莊的聲名於是在國際間愈來愈高 1851 年, Romain Bertrand de Lur Saluces 正式接掌莊園, 從此一個家族財產尌變成一個真正的職業, 家族和城堡的故事合而為一 在 19 世紀後期, 歐洲人從四方八面跑到這裏品嚐佳釀, 甚至連日本人也發現了 Yquem 的絕妙 1914 年城堡被改建為軍事醫院, 戰爭結束後 Bertrand de Lur Saluces 侯爵開始管理城堡 他捍衛的是家族價值 Yquem 特色及其哲學 他於 1968 年以遊後, 姪兒 Alexandre de Lur Saluces 接管領地 Yquem 也受到貿易危機及欠佳年份的影響, 全靠嚴格管理和 1975 年佳釀才熬過來, 並在隨後的日子回復元氣, 重新上路 到了今時今日, 酒莊仍然堅孚傳統價值, 亦堅持面向世界和現代化 一片獨特的土地 細心挑選的葡萄 傳統釀酒方法和 神奇的蘑菇, 都是 Yquem 美酒的秘密 選擇 是 Yquem 的關鍵詞 證據是..遇上惡劣的環境時, 為免影響質素, 在以下年份不曾出產任何紅酒 和 1992 年 88

89 305. Vertical of Yquem from 1900 to 2005 US$ / HK$ / in btls (ie 97 btls without the 9 vintages not produced by the château ) and from 1970 to 2005 in magnums(ie 32 magnums without the 4 vintages not produced by the château ) - Vintage 1900 top-shoulder - Vintage 1901 upper-shoulder - Vintage 1902 into neck; recorked in Vintage 1903 mid-low shoulder; recorked in Vintage 1904 into neck - Vintage 1905 base of neck; recorked in Vintage 1906 upper-shoulder - Vintage 1907 upper-shoulder; damaged capsule - Vintage 1908 top-shoulder; recorked in Vintage 1909 high fill; recorked in Vintage 1911 mid-shoulder - Vintage 1912 base of neck; recorked in Vintage 1913 base of neck - Vintage 1914 base of neck - Vintage 1916 upper-shoulder - Vintage 1917 base of neck - Vintage 1918 base of neck; repackaged in Vintage 1919 upper-shoulder - Vintage 1920 top-shoulder; recorked in Vintage 1921 top-shoulder; recorked in Vintage 1922 base of neck - Vintage 1923 base of neck - Vintage 1924 base of neck - Vintage 1925 top-shoulder - Vintage 1926 mid-shoulder - Vintage 1927 top-shoulder - Vintage 1928 upper-shoulder - Vintage 1929 top-shoulder - Vintage 1931 top-shoulder - Vintage 1932 top-shoulder - Vintage 1933 upper-shoulder - Vintage 1934 top shoulder - Vintage 1935 upper-shoulder - Vintage 1936 into neck - Vintage 1937 top-shoulder; recorked in Vintage 1938 into neck; recorked in Vintage 1939 top-shoulder - Vintage 1940 base of neck - Vintage 1941 high fill; recorked in Vintage 1942 base of neck - Vintage 1943 into neck - Vintage 1944 top-shoulder - Vintage 1945 base of neck - Vintage 1946 top-shoulder - Vintage 1947 base of neck - Vintage 1948 base of neck - Vintage 1949 base of neck; green label - Vintage 1950 into neck; green label - Vintage 1953 into neck - Vintage 1954 into neck - Vintage 1955 base of neck - Vintage 1956 into neck - Vintage 1957 high fill - Vintage 1958 into neck - Vintage 1959 high fill - Vintage 1960 high fill - Vintage 1961 top-shoulder - Vintage 1962 into neck - Vintage 1963 top-shoulder - Vintage 1965 high fill - Vintage 1966 into neck - Vintage 1967 into neck - Vintage 1968 into neck - Vintage 1969 top-shoulder - Vintage 1970 base of neck - Vintage 1971 high fill - Vintage 1973 into neck - Vintage 1975 high fill - Vintage 1976 base of neck - Vintage 1977 into neck - Vintage 1978 base of neck - Vintage 1979 into neck - Vintage 1980 base of neck - Vintage 1981 into neck - Vintage 1982 into neck - Vintage 1983 into neck - Vintage 1984 base of neck - Vintage 1985 into neck - Vintage 1986 base of neck - Vintage 1987 into neck - Vintage 1988 into neck - Vintage 1989 into neck - Vintage 1990 high fill - Vintage 1991 into neck - Vintage 1993 high fill - Vintage 1994 high fill - Vintage 1995 into neck - Vintage 1996 high fill - Vintage 1997 high fill - Vintage 1998 high fill - Vintage 1999 high fill - Vintage 2000 high fill - Vintage 2001 high fill - Vintage 2002 high fill - Vintage 2003 high fill - Vintage 2004 high fill - Vintage 2005 high fill MAGNUMS - Vintage 1970 into neck - Vintage 1971 into neck - Vintage 1973 high fill - Vintage 1975 into neck - Vintage 1976 high fill - Vintage 1978 high fill - Vintage 1979 high fill - Vintage 1980 high fill - Vintage 1981 high fill - Vintage 1982 high fill - Vintage 1983 into neck - Vintage 1984 high fill - Vintage 1985 into neck - Vintage 1986 high fill - Vintage 1987 into neck - Vintage 1988 high fill - Vintage 1989 high fill - Vintage 1990 high fill - Vintage 1991 high fill - Vintage 1993 high fill - Vintage 1994 high fill - Vintage 1995 high fill - Vintage 1996 high fill - Vintage 1997 high fill - Vintage 1998 high fill - Vintage 1999 high fill - Vintage 2000 high fill - Vintage % Parker; high fill - Vintage 2002 high fill - Vintage 2003 high fill - Vintage 2004 high fill - Vintage 2005 high fill Lot

90 Nebuchadnezzar Cht Yquem - 15L n 84 out of 100 OWC 2005 US$ 40000/45000 HK$ / btls Cht Yquem OWC 2003 US$ 1206/1702 HK$ 9405/ mag Cht Yquem 100% Parker 2001 US$ 2300/2600 HK$ 17700/19900 Pale; crème caramel, vanilla; sweet, caramelly, excellent body and acidity. Great wine. Michael Broadbent 淡口; 忌廉焦糖 香草 ; 甜口, 帶焦糖氣色, 酒身及酸度一流 佳釀 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Yquem OWC 2000 US$ 2100/2900 HK$ 16600/ mag Cht Yquem OWC 1999 US$ 700/1100 HK$ 5600/8300 Palish; not very distinctive; medium sweetness and body. Michael Broadbent 略顯蒼白, 未見特別 ; 甜度和酒身中等 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Yquem OWC 1999 US$ 1100/1400 HK$ 8300/ btls Cht Yquem OWC 1999 US$ 1100/1400 HK$ 8300/ btl Cht Yquem OWC 1999 US$ 2100/2800 HK$ 16600/ btl Cht Yquem OWC 1998 US$ 2100/2800 HK$ 16600/22100 Yellow, touch of gold; honeyed Semillon, vanilla and mint; medium sweet, good straightforward flavour, somewhat hard end. Michael Broadbent 黃色以中略帶金色; 加了蜜糖的 Semillon 香草和薄荷; 中等甜度, 直截了當的味道, 尾段轉硬 (Michael Broadbent) btl Cht Yquem OWC 1995 US$ 2500/3100 HK$ 19400/24300 Palish; not very distinctive; medium sweetness and body. Michael Broadbent 略顯蒼白, 未見特別 ; 甜度和酒身中等 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Yquem OWC 1990 US$ 3200/4000 HK$ 24900/31000 The biggest crop since 1893: bright amber-gold with orange highlights; sweet, rich, orange blossom fragrance becoming increasingly caramelly; medium-sweet, rich texture, nutty flavour though lacking the opulence and rich sensuality of the 89. Michael Broadbent 自 1893 年以來最大產量..鮮明的琥珀金色並帶點橙色 ; 甜身 豐富 橙花芳香會漸變焦糖氣色 ; 甜度中等, 結構豐富, 帶果仁味道但缺乏 89 年產的豐饒感覺 (Michael Broadbent) lot of 4 btls including : US$ 1300/1900 HK$ 10000/ btl Cht Yquem 1990 into neck; very, very slightly torn label - 1 btl Cht Yquem 1989 into neck; very, very slightly bin-soiled label Medium yellow-gold with visibly rich legs. High-toned, honey, peaches, apricots; very rich, full bodied, complete, quite a bite to it and extended flavour. Perfect. Michael Broadbent 中度金黃色和可見的豐富掛杯 高雅, 帶蜜糖 桃子和杏桃味 ; 非常豐富, 香醇, 完整, 微辛並有悠長韻味 完美 (Michael Broadbent) - 1 btl Cht Yquem into neck 1988 Well-nigh perfect bottles, developing an amber tinge; bouquet of honey and apricots, enhanced by volatile acidity; fairly sweet, intensely rich, glorious flavour. Michael Broadbent 幾乎完美的酒瓶, 令酒色變成淡琥珀 ; 蜜糖和杏桃的香氣, 隨揮發性強的酸性而出 ; 頗甜, 非常豐富 壯觀的風味 (Michael Broadbent) - 1 btl Cht Yquem into neck btl Cht Yquem into neck 1988 US$ 2000/2700 HK$ 15500/ btls Cht Yquem 1988 US$ 1900/2500 HK$ 15000/ btls high fill; 2 very slightly nicked labels mag Cht Yquem 1987 US$ 400/600 HK$ 3300/4400 base of neck; very, very slightly bin-soiled label Unknit but sweet, with surprisingly good weight and flavour. Michael Broadbent 鬆散但甜身, 重量和韻味教人喜出望外 (Michael Broadbent) Dmag Cht Yquem 1986 US$ 1700/2100 HK$ 13300/16600 base of neck lot of 13 btls including : US$ 3300/4000 HK$ 33000/ btls Cht Yquem btls top-shoulder - 1 btl Cht Yquem 1984 base of neck; bin-soiled label - 1 btl Cht Yquem 1976 into neck; slightly stained label Touch of orange, viscous; heavy, caramelly, whiff of old apricots; fairly sweet; rich substantial mouthful, good enough acidity, considerable depth. Fully mature. Michael Broadbent 略帶橙色和黏性; 深重, 有焦糖氣息和點點老杏桃 ; 頗甜 ; 豐富而殷實的口感 ; 酸度不錯, 深度亦可 已完全成熟 (Michael Broadbent) 90

91 btl Cht Yquem 1955 US$ 700/1100 HK$ 5500/8900 base of neck btl Cht Yquem OWC 1959 US$ 28400/35500 HK$ / base of neck btl Cht Yquem OWC 1947 US$ 42600/56800 HK$ / btls high fill, 9 btls into neck repackaged in 2009 Perfect, glowing amber-gold with apple-green rim; totally harmonious bouquet; still remarkably sweet, mouthfilling with a singed hot-vintage character. It looks the purest glowing gold in a decanter by candlelight. Michael Broadbent 略帶橙色和黏性; 深重, 有焦糖氣息和點點老杏桃 ; 頗甜 ; 豐富而殷實的口感 ; 酸度不錯, 深度亦可 已完全成熟 (Michael Broadbent) btl Cht Yquem OWC 1894 US$ 5700/8500 HK$ 44300/66400 base of neck; recorked in 1998; short capsule 328bis 1 btl Yquem, Lur - Saluces 1893 US$ 2900/7100 HK$ 22100/ btl Cht Yquem 1856 US$ 14200/25600 HK$ / top-shoulder; recorked in 1994; short capsule btl Cht Yquem 1811 US$ 42600/71000 HK$ / top-shoulder; repackaged in 1998 or 1993; dark color «sold as is, identified by cork» dark color btl Cht Yquem 1784 US$ / HK$ / upper-shoulder, 4.3cm; Haut Brion btl shape; no label; vintage visible on cork recorked in 1988 Lot

92 Other grand crus classés ofsauternes 其他頂級 SAUTERNES 佳釀 92

93 93

94 LAFAURIE PEYRAGUEYSauternes, 1er Grand Cru Classé Melchior Cht Lafaurie Peyraguey Sauternes OWC 2000 US$ 1100/1700 HK$ 8900/13300 MYRATSauternes, 1er Grand Cru Classé btls Cht Myrat- Sauternes OWC 2001 US$ 400/600 HK$ 3300/4400 REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE : ***** One of the best Bordeaux Pure and distinguished, a very great achievement. LE POINT : Jacques Dupont : 17,5/20 TAST : Bettane et Desseauve : 15,5/20 Nice golden color, charming confit aromas, complex. CARNETS DE DEGUSTATION : 9/10 GAULT MILLAU : 17/20 Lemon-confit, spicy, roasted botrytis nose. Generous, dense, very distinguished. The best vintage of Myrat since its replanting. REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE : ***** 2001 年波爾多的佼佼者 純潔而高貴, 是一流的出品 LE POINT : Jacques Dupont : 17,5/20 TAST - Bettane et Desseauve : 15,5/20 漂亮的金色, 迷人的香料芳香, 複雜 CARNETS DE DEGUSTATION : 9/10 GAULT MILLAU: 17/20 有檸檬佐料 香料和烤貴腐的氣色 宏大 濃厚, 非常高貴 自重植以後的最佳 Myrat btls Cht Myrat- Sauternes OWC 2001 US$ 400/600 HK$ 3300/ Dmag Cht Myrat- Sauternes OWC 2001 US$ 300/400 HK$ 2000/ Dmag Cht Myrat- Sauternes OWC 2001 US$ 300/400 HK$ 2000/ Impériale Cht Myrat- Sauternes OWC 2001 US$ 400/500 HK$ 3100/ mag Cht Myrat- Sauternes OWC 2001 US$ 500/600 HK$ 3900/ mag Cht Myrat- Sauternes OWC 1997 US$ 500/600 HK$ 3900/5000 Oenologist Mrs. Sourdes Beautiful pale yellow slightly amber color; the wine is limpid, shimmering. A complex nose with notes of lime blossom, acacia honey, gingerbread and nutmeg. Mouthfilling, silky-textured with a finish of crystallized fruit and dried apricot. A very feminine, harmonious vintage, with a lot of finesse and elegance. Nice, rich and mouthfilling ensemble, with an orange peel- ginger-dominating finish of four spices. 酒類專家 Sourdes 太太 漂亮的微黃, 略帶黃褐色 酒色清澈而微微生光 香氣複雜, 帶有青檸花 洋槐蜜 薑餅和肉豆蔻的芬芳 口感殷實, 有如絲綢般的結構, 餘香帶有結晶果實 與乾杏桃 非常陰柔和諧的佳釀, 並帶精細感與高雅 總的來說, 宜人 口感豐富, 餘韻有四種香料, 以橙皮和薑最為突出 CLIMENS Sauternes, 1er Grand Cru Classé btls Cht Climens - Sauternes OWC 1988 US$ 1200/1400 HK$ 9400/ btls into neck, 4 btls base of neck Heavily botrytised grapes picked in perfect autumn sunshine. Fragrant, sweet, rich, almost creamy, harmonious though a slight whiff of peach kernels. Good acidity. Michael Broadbent 在秋日下採摘的高度貴腐葡萄 芳香 甜身 豐富, 近乎膩人, 和諧但有一絲桃核氣息 酸度良好 (Michael Broadbent) RIEUSSEC Sauternes, 1er Grand Cru Classé btls Cht Rieussec - Sauternes OWC 1988 US$ 600/900 HK$ 5000/ btls into neck Fully evolved, harmonious nose; very rich, touch of caramel and peach kernels. Positive, tangy. Dry finish. Michael Broadbent 已完全發展, 香氣和諧 ; 十分豐富, 有焦糖和桃核味道 良好, 味道強烈, 收尾乾口 (Michael Broadbent) SUDUIRAUTSauternes, 1er Grand Cru Classé btls Cht Suduiraut - Sauternes OWC 1989 US$ 600/900 HK$ 5000/ btls into neck Consistently superb. Bright gold; delicious fragrant; retaining elegance despite its richness and sweetness. Perfection. Michael Broadbent 一直出色 鮮明的金色; 芬芳四溢 ; 豐富和甜美之餘不失優雅 完美 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Suduiraut - Sauternes OWC 1988 US$ 400/600 HK$ 3300/ btls high fill, 5 btls into neck, 4 btls base of neck Bright yellow-gold; lovely, fragrant, honey and apricots bouquets; fairly sweet, rich enough, crisp, light style, excellent flavour, length and acidity. Michael Broadbent 鮮明金黃色; 可人, 帶蜜糖和杏子的芳香 ; 甜度不錯, 頗為豐富, 清脆, 輕盈, 味道 持久力和酸度俱為一流 (Michael Broadbent) 94

95 BROUSTET Sauternes, 2ème Grand Cru Classé btls Cht Broustet - Sauternes OWC 1989 US$ 400/500 HK$ 2800/ btls into neck, 2 btls base of neck, 2 bts top shoulder Distinctive, flowery. Michael Broadbent. 有特色, 帶花香 (Michael Broadbent) btls Cht Broustet - Sauternes OWC 1988 US$ 400/500 HK$ 2800/ btls base of neck; slight layer of mold appearing on bottom of the cork DOISY VéDRINNES Sauternes, 1er Grand Cru Classé btls Cht Doisy Védrinnes Sauternes OWC 1989 US$ 400/600 HK$ 3300/ btls into neck 95

96 Burgundy 勃艮第紅酒 96

97 Lott

98 ROMANéE CONTI By Robert M. Parker, Jr This domaine under the direction of Aubert de Villaine, composed of holdings in seven grand crus (two of them monopoles), is the most renowned in Burgundy. The estate owns a barrel s worth of one additional grand cru, Bâtard-Montrachet, which is served strictly in-house, and the fruits of their considerable, superbly situated premier cru acreage in Vosne-Romanée are sold to négociants. The viticultural practice here is organic and will soon be biodynamic for the entire estate. Yields are extremely low, and de Villaine has taken the leadership regionally in repropagating ancient, genetically diverse vine selections. He was also a pioneer in the rigorous sorting of fruit after picking. Fermentation here includes whole clusters and stems. The wines are moved almost entirely by gravity and generally bottled in five-barrel batches. Overall, de Villaine s aim is to recapture methods of viticulture and vinification that might have prevailed a century ago. The reputation of the Domaine de la Romanée Conti and the quality of its wines has approached the level achieved today in no small part thanks to de Villaine s tireless, quality-conscious labors. The domaine s wines are as profound, complex, and age-worthy as any from the appellations that it shares with other growers. And the Pinot Noir from their two monopoles - the typically tensile, intense La Tâche and the startlingly perfumed, kaleidoscopically complex, supremely elegant Romanée-Conti - truly exhibit a categorical difference from any other wines on earth. ROMANéE CONTI Robert M. Parker, Jr. 評語 這片領地現時由 Aubert de Villaine 打理, 持有七個 grand crus( 當中兩個是 monopoles), 在勃艮第赫赫有 名 酒莊其實還有一桶額外的 grandcru, 名為 Bâtard-Montrachet, 但只供莊園內享用 他們會把產自 Vosne- Romanée( 一處地理位置優越的 premier cru 英畝 ) 的果實賣給酒商釀酒 這兒會用有機方法栽種葡萄, 整個酒 莊亦會很快轉為生物動力栽種 產量極少,de Villaine 在本區先行再次播殖古老 基因多元的葡萄樹 他也是在 採集果實後作嚴格挑選的先驅者 葡萄在這裏會整串連莖發酵, 紅酒則幾乎完全靠地心吸力移動, 一般以每批五 桶的方式入瓶 大致而言,de Villaine 的目標尌是採用一世紀前風行的種植和釀酒方法 Domaine de la Romanée Conti 的名氣和其紅酒的質量, 很大程度源自 de Villaine 永不言倦 孜孜追求品質的辛勤, 其紅酒跟這個產 區的產品一樣, 深邃 複雜和值得陳化 還有來自他們兩個 monopoles 的 Pinot Noir( 典型具張力而強烈的 La Tâche 和帶教人意外的芳香 多重的複雜 非常優雅的 Romanée-Conti), 都跟其他各類紅酒截然不同 OWC of 12 btls - DRC 2007 including : 2007 US$ 17000/25500 HK$ / Romanée Conti - 2 btls La Tache - 2 btls Richebourg - 2 btls Romanée St Vivant - 2 btls Grands Echezeaux - 3 btls Echezeaux OWC of 12 btls - DRC 2006 including : 2006 US$ 17000/25500 HK$ / Romanée Conti - 2 btls La Tache - 2 btls Richebourg - 2 btls Romanée St Vivant - 2 btls Grands Echezeaux - 3 btls Grands Echezeaux OWC of 10 btls - DRC 2006 including : 2006 US$ 17000/25500 HK$ / Romanée Conti - 3 btls La Tache - 2 btls Romanée St Vivant - 4 btls Grands Echezeaux OWC of 10 btls - DRC 2005 including : 2005 US$ 21300/27000 HK$ / Romanée Conti - 3 btls La Tache - 2 btls Romanée St Vivant - 2 btls Richebourg - 2 btls Grands Echezeaux 98

99 351. lot of 7 magnums Romanée Conti in individual OWC including : 2003 US$ 71000/ HK$ / Romanée Conti - 1 mag La Tâche - 1 mag Richebourg - DRC - 1 mag Echezeaux - DRC - 1 mag Grands Echezeaux - 1 mag Romanée St Vivant - DRC - 1 mag Montrachet - DRC btls Romanée Conti - DRC : 1999 US$ 17000/21300 HK$ / high fill; slightly bin-soiled labels with traces of dampness; 1 damaged label Deep, though showing more development than expected; initially low-keyed but rich and very distinctive, opening up cautiously, touch of liquorice and surprisingly toffee-like but great depth; sweet, rich but massive concentration and intensity, mouthfilling flavour, great length and magnificent aftertaste. Fleshy, tremendous power. Michael Broadbent 深厚, 較預期中展示更多發展 ; 最初較低調, 但口感豐富而且突出, 小心地開放, 有甘草和令人意外的乳脂糖感覺, 但有出色深度 ; 甜口, 豐富但非常集中而強烈, 味道充斥於口腔之中, 持久而餘韻悠長 豐滿而力度澎湃 (Michael Broadbent) btls Romanée Conti - DRC 1999 US$ 17000/21300 HK$ / slightly bin-soiled, damp labels OWC of 10 btls - DRC 1989 including : 1989 US$ 4300/5700 HK$ 33200/ btls La Tache 1 btl at 2cm, 1 btl at 2.5cm loose label, 1 btl at 2.4cm - 2 btls Richebourg 1 btl at 2.3cm,1 btl at 1.5cm - 3 btls Romanée St Vivant 1 btl at 2cm stained label, 1 btl at 2.2cm, 1 btl at 1.8cm - 2 btls Echezeaux 1 btl at 1.5cm, 1 btl at 1.7cm slightly torn label btl Romanée Conti - DRC 1.3cm : 1989 US$ 5700/7100 HK$ 44300/55400 slightly bin-soiled, damp labels btl Romanée Conti - DRC 2.5cm : 1988 US$ 6400/7800 HK$ 49800/ btls Romanée Conti - DRC 1972 US$ 3600/5000 HK$ 27700/ cm; damaged, slightly torn label LA TACHE btl La Tache - DRC 2005 US$ 3100/4000 HK$ 24400/ btl La Tache - DRC 2, US$ 900/1100 HK$ 6700/8900 Medium deep, forward; already looked fairly mature; light, vegetal pinot aroma speedily opening up, fragrant, crisp and, even after four hours in the glass, still a charmer; dryish, relatively light body and style but with teeth-gripping acidity. Michael Broadbent 中等深度, 前向 ; 看來已略見成熟 ; 輕盈,pinot 的植物氣息迅即開放, 芳香, 清脆, 在杯中四小時後仍然可人 ; 乾身, 酒體和風格偏輕但有囓齒酸度 (Michael Broadbent) btls La Tache - DRC 2cm and 3.2cm 1988 US$ 2600/3600 HK$ 19900/27700 Showing some maturity; vegetal pinot aroma, sweet, like caramel with an upturned edge; sweaty tannins, but after an hour rich, great depth and after four hours in the glass, strawberry-like fruit, later still, spicy. Fairly sweet, assertive, piquant fruit, some astringency. Michael Broadbent 展現出一點成熟味道;pinot 的植物氣息, 帶甜味和焦糖的朝上感 單寧帶汗味 ; 但一小時後有豐富和強勁的深度, 在杯中四小時後則有類似草莓的果香, 其後更香料氣色 甜度不俗, 堅定, 果味辛辣, 略帶澀味 (Michael Broadbent) ROMANéE ST VIVANT DOMAINE DE LA ROMANEE CONTI btl Romanée St Vivant - DRC 2cm 1988 US$ 600/800 HK$ 4400/ btls Romanée St Vivant - DRC 1988 US$ 7100/10000 HK$ 55300/ btls at 2.7cm; 6 btls at 3cm; 2 btls at 4cm; 3 slightly damaged labels; 9 damaged labels Medium deep, bright, open rich legs, sweet, harmonious nose with whiff of vanillin; its initial harsh edge softening and opening up. Almost sickly sweet after an hour or two in the glass. Medium sweet entry leading to a very dry, tannic finish, full bodied, crisp, firm. Fine wine. Michael Broadbent 中等深度, 色彩鮮明而掛杯豐富, 氣息甜美和諧, 並有一絲香草芳香 入口感覺強烈, 但隨即緩和並開放 留在杯中一兩小時後, 幾乎甜得可怕 入口甜感中度, 隨之而來是非常乾口 單寧餘韻悠長 酒體重 清爽而結實 好酒 (Michael Broadbent) 362bis. 6 btls CB Romanée St Vivant Rougeot - Dupin Grand Cru 1993 US$ 2800/3500 HK$ 22000/

100 RICHEBOURG DOMAINE DE LA ROMANEE CONTI btl Richebourg - DRC 2005 US$ 1400/2100 HK$ 11100/ btl Richebourg - DRC 2005 US$ 1400/2100 HK$ 11100/ btls Richebourg - DRC 1992 US$ 2100/2600 HK$ 16600/ btl at 2.5cm, 2 btls at 2.4cm, 1 btl at 1.8cm btl Richebourg - DRC 1942 US$ 2900/4300 HK$ 22100/33200 relabeled at the Domaine 1.8cm below capsule GRANDS ECHEZEAUX DOMAINE DE LA ROMANEE CONTI btl Grands Echezeaux - DRC 2005 US$ 900/1100 HK$ 6600/ btls Grands Echezeaux - DRC 1982 US$ 7800/10000 HK$ 60900/77500 ECHEZEAUX DOMAINE DE LA ROMANEE CONTI btls Echezeaux - DRC 2005 US$ 1400/1700 HK$ 11100/ btls Echezeaux - DRC 1992 US$ 1200/1400 HK$ 9600/ btl at 1.9cm, 1 btl at 2cm, 1 btl at 3.2cm; 1 very slightly torn label Very fragrant; lovely entry and mid-palate, good length, acidity rather than tannin. Delicious. Michael Broadbent 香氣四溢, 入口與口感均可人, 味道悠長, 是酸味而非單寧 可口 (Michael Broadbent) btl Echezeaux - DRC 1989 US$ 700/900 HK$ 5000/ cm; damaged label on vintage btls Echezeaux - DRC 1988 US$ 1000/1100 HK$ 7700/ btl at 2cm, 1 btl at 2.5cm Pink-tinged; crisp fruit; dry, firm, very tannic. Michael Broadbent 略帶粉紅; 果味清爽 ; 乾身 結實, 單寧甚重 (Michael Broadbent) btls Echezeaux - DRC 1985 US$ 2600/3000 HK$ 20000/ btls at 2.8cm, 1 btl at 3.5cm; Marianne capsule on top; agent général LEROY neck label Mature, delicious fragrance and flavour. Lovely wine. Michael Broadbent 成熟, 芳香與味道怡人 動人的紅酒 (Michael Broadbent) OTHERS GRANDS CRUS OF BOURGOGNE Nebuchadnezzar La Grande Rue - 15L - Lamarche 1999 US$ 3600/5000 HK$ 27800/38800 Jean-François COCHE-DURY by Robert Parker : Jean-François Coche-Dury has long been known as one of the handful of finest white wine growers on the planet. From this estate, even a wine of simple appellation Bourgogne reflects sensitive, meticulous work at all levels. The wines are never filtered. The top wines are frequently firm at first and mature magnificently. For 20 years, fellow winegrowers as well as wine professionals of every sort have craved Coche s audience and in return for their patience been educated and inspired. Robert Parker 評 Jean-François COCHE-DURY : Jean-François Coche-Dury 是人所共知的世界頂尖白酒種植者 在這個酒莊裏, 即使簡單如 Bourgogne 產區的紅酒, 也可以在所有層次展現謹慎和細心的工作 20 年來, 其他種植者和各類酒業專家都懇求 Coche 給予意見, 耐心者總有機會受益和得到啟發 btl Corton Charlemagne GC - Coche Dury 2003 US$ 1100/1700 HK$ 8900/ btl Corton Charlemagne GC - Coche Dury 2003 US$ 1100/1700 HK$ 8900/ btl Corton Charlemagne GC - Coche Dury 2001 US$ 1100/1700 HK$ 8900/ cm; nicked label; Marianne congé capsule btl Corton Charlemagne GC - Coche Dury 1993 US$ 1100/1700 HK$ 8900/ cm; Marianne congé capsule btl Meursault 1er cru Perrières - Coche Dury 1997 US$ 600/700 HK$ 4400/ cm; Marianne congé capsule btl Meursault 1er cru Perrières - Coche Dury 1996 US$ 1100/1700 HK$ 8900/ cm; Marianne congé capsule btl Meursault 1er cru Perrières - Coche Dury 1992 US$ 1400/2100 HK$ 11100/ btl Meursault 1er cru Perrières - Coche Dury 1992 US$ 1400/2100 HK$ 11100/ cm; damaged, bin-soiled label; Marianne congé capsule 100

101 btl Meursault 1er cru Perrières - Coche Dury 1990 US$ 1400/2100 HK$ 11100/ cm; Marianne congé capsule mag Echezeaux Henri Jayer 1992 US$ 3500/5000 HK$ 27700/ cm; Marianne congé capsule btl Vosne Romanée Cros Parentoux Henri Jayer 1993 US$ 2100/2800 HK$ 16600/ btl Vosne Romanée Henri Jayer 1990 US$ 2600/3500 HK$ 20000/ cm; Marianne congé capsule btl Vosne Romanée Henri Jayer 1986 US$ 1100/1700 HK$ 8900/ cm; stained label 388. lot of 3 btls Echezeaux Henri Jayer including : 1989 US$ 6500/10000 HK$ 60000/ btl Echezeaux Henri Jayer 2cm; very slightly stained label; Marianne capsule - 1 btl Echezeaux Henri Jayer 1.6cm; s label lightly torn on the side mag Echezeaux Henri Jayer OWC 1986 US$ 3500/5000 HK$ 27700/ btls Echezeaux Henri Jayer 1981 US$ 5700/7100 HK$ 44300/ btls at 2cm, 1 btl at 2.5cm; 1 cut capsule; 3 Marianne congé capsules btl Echezeaux Henri Jayer 1973 US$ 2800/3500 HK$ 22100/ cm; stained label btls Richebourg Henri Jayer 1976 US$ 9200/11300 HK$ 71900/ cm, 3cm; 1 damaged capsule btls Richebourg Henri Jayer 1970 US$ 10000/14200 HK$ 77500/ cm, 3.8cm; short neutral capsules btls Nuits St Georges 1er cru Les Meurgers Henri Jayer 1981 US$ 2800/3500 HK$ 22100/ btls at 2cm, 1 btl at 2.5cm; 1 cut capsule; 3 Marianne congé capsules btls Vosne Romanée Henri Jayer 1980 US$ 14200/21300 HK$ / btl at 2.5cm, 5 btls at 3cm, 3 btls at 3.5cm, 2 btls at 4.5cm, 1 btl at 5cm Lot

102 Jacques-Frederic MUGNIER by Robert Parker : Jacques-Frederic Mugnier has made some of the most delicious, intriguing Pinot Noirs in Burgundy since the mid 1980s, for much of which time he continued to work as an airline pilot. The 2004 return of the Mugnier family s 24 acre monopole Nuits St Georges Clos de la Maréchale presented Mugnier with significant challenges in vinification and logistics, but he has expanded and modernized his cellar to accommodate a greatly enhanced volume of wine while permitting greater attention to detail in all bottlings. Mugnier advocates unusually late but limited pigeage. After all, he notes we take great care not to crush the berries, so it doesn t make sense to do an early pigeage and break them, and a late punch-down further extends the fermentation. His aim is to achieve refinement of flavor and texture. One taste of Mugnier s 2004s or 2006s confirms that he can succeed brilliantly in this aim even when nature does not make it easy. And with nature s full cooperation, Mugnier rendered an extraordinary 2005 collection, culminating in a silken-textured, explosively aromatic, impulsively intense, seemingly weightless Musigny. Robert Parker 評 Jacques-Frederic MUGNIER : 自 1980 年代中貣, Jacques-Frederic 多數時間一邊擔任航空公司的機師, 一邊出品勃艮第區數一數二可口迷人的 Pinot Noirs 2004 年,Mugnier 家族 24 公頃的 monopole Nuits St Georges Clos de la Maréchale 回歸, 為 Mugnier 帶來不少釀造和運輸的問題, 但他擴張了酒窖並將之現代化, 成功存放大幅增加的紅酒數目, 又更加注意所有瓶身的資料 Mugnier 主張特遲但有限的人工踩皮 他說.. 畢竟, 我們小心翼翼不壓壞漿果, 所以也沒有道理要急急踩皮來破壞它們 延後擠壓也能研長發酵 他的目的是要提升味道和質感 詴過 Mugnier 的 2004 年和 2006 年後, 尌知道雖然天公不做美, 他仍然達到目標 至於獲大自然相助的出色 2005 年系列, 則能達到絲綢般的質感, 芳香迸發, 充斥力度, 帶有似乎無重感覺的 Musigny 美酒 btl Musigny J-F Mugnier 1989 US$ 600/900 HK$ 4400/6600 2cm; bin-soiled, damaged label btls Nuits St Georges des Hospices de Beaune OWC 2005 US$ 600/1000 HK$ 5000/ btls Nuits St Georges des Hospices de Beaune OWC 2005 US$ 600/1000 HK$ 5000/ btls Pommard des Hospices de Beaune OWC 2005 US$ 600/700 HK$ 4400/ jero Montrachet GC Henri Boillot - 4,5L 2002 US$ 2100/2800 HK$ 16600/ ml indicated on label jero Montrachet GC Henri Boillot - 4,5L 2002 US$ 2100/2800 HK$ 16600/ ml indicated on label jero Montrachet GC Henri Boillot - 4,5L 2002 US$ 2100/2800 HK$ 16600/ ml indicated on label 102

103 Georges ROUMIER by Robert Parker : Georges ROUMIER has brought his family s already famous domaine to a singular level of excellence through an exemplary application of intelligence, sensitivity, and hard work. His Pinots, as well as his rare Corton Charlemagne, combine lushness and sensuality with a mysterious resonance and fascinating detail of flavor. His family s stellar collection of crus (including Les Amoureuses, Clos Vougeot, Musigny and Bonnes Mares) is supplemented by leases on properties ranging from villages level to grand cru (Charmes and Ruchottes Chambertin). This is one of those worrisomely numerous Burgundy domaines where, given the fate of its exceptional 2005 vintage wines in the marketplace, one hesitates before attempting to indicate an upper bound for prices. Thankfully, though, the volumes of Roumier appellation Bourgogne villages, Chambolle, and Morey St Denis Clos de la Bussière (a monopole) are significant, and their quality-to-price ratio is still excellent. Robert Parker 評 Georges ROUMIER : Georges ROUMIER 將其家族的名釀引進殿堂級的品質, 方法是加上睿智 敏感和努力 在他的 Pinot 和罕見的 Corton Charlemagne 裏, 竟帶有神秘的共鳴和迷人的味覺細節 他的家族擁有一系列 crus( 包括 Les Amoureuses Clos Vougeot Musigny 和 Bonnes Mares), 還有出租的鄉村級以至 grand cru(charmes 和 Ruchottes Chambertin) 有鑑於這酒莊在 2005 年份佳釀的遭遇, 它最教人煩惱的是價錢能否上調的問題 幸好, Roumier 產區中 Bourgogne 村落 Chambolle 和 Morey St Denis Clos de la Bussière( 一個 monopole) 的產量仍然出色, 而他們品質與價錢的比例依舊一流 Georges ROUMIER Assemblage Carton including : US$ 5700/6400 HK$ 44300/ btl Bonnes Mares GC cm; very slightly bin-soiled capsule - 1 btl Bonnes Mares GC cm; very slightly bin-soiled capsule - 1 btl Bonnes Mares GC cm; bin-soiled, slightly nicked capsule; slightly bin-soiled label - 1 btl Bonnes Mares GC cm; stained label Lot

104 Domaine Comte Georges de VOGUE by Robert Parker : Among the oldest estate bottlers in Burgundy and owners of 70% of the grand cru Musigny, the Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé is the source of many legendary libations. But when oenologist François Millet and commercial director Jean-Luc Pepin were hired in 1986, both the quality and reputation of the wines were due for a comeback, which is what this team delivered. Devoting meticulous attention to virtually every possible detail of viticulture, vinification, and élevage, the intellectually intense Millet scarcely spared expenses. No fewer than three reds now come from the estate s holdings in Musigny. Old vines from the choicest portions continue to be bottled as MusignyVieilles Vignes, a wine whose complexity only a tiny handful of Burgundies can equal. The almost savagely intense, berry-concentrated Bonnes Mares and the seductively perfumed, mysteriously carnal Chambolle Musigny Les Amoureuses complete the portfolio of this prestigious estate. Robert Parker 評 Domaine Comte Georges de VOGUE : Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé 是勃根第區最早採用瓶裝的酒莊, 擁有 70% 的 grand cru Musigny, 是許 多美酒佳話的來源 不過, 它要重振昔日的品質和聲名, 尌全靠 1986 年加盟的酒類專家 François Millet 和商業總監 Jean-Luc Pepin 了 兩人一絲不苟地研究包括種植 釀造和陳化的各個細節, 睿智的 Millet 也不會放過任何浪費, 成效尌是酒莊 Musigny 葡萄園現在已出產三種紅酒..精挑細選的老葡萄樹繼續以 MusignyVieilles Vignes 之名面世, 其複雜度傲視其他勃艮第產品 ;Bonnes Mares 則果味濃烈, 擁有近乎兇猛的強度 ;Chambolle Musigny Les Amoureuses 尌充滿肉感和神秘感 Lot btl Musigny du Comte de VOGUE 2.8cm 1972 US$ 1800/2000 HK$ 13000/ btl Musigny du Comte de VOGUE 2.8cm cm; very badly damaged label US$ 2100/2700 HK$ 16500/ btl Bonnes Mares GC 2.8cm btls Musigny du Comte de VOGUE btls at 1.4cm and 2 btls at 2cm 1 btl Musigny du Comte de VOGUE cm; very slightly damaged label 104

105 COTES DU RHONE Marcel GUIGAL by Robert Parker : There is much to admire about Marcel Guigal, but most significant is that he has been a qualitative locomotive that has brought attention to the Rhône Valley, raising the quality bar for the entire region. More importantly, he realizes that most consumers will have access only to his least expensive wines from the Côtes du Rhône, so he has made every effort to continue to increase the quality of both his white and red Côtes du Rhône. The largest producer of Côte Rôtie, he has largely defined that appellation with his three spectacular single-vineyard offerings: La Landonne, La Mouline and La Turque. These immortal wines sell for a king s ransom, but they are as good as anything produced anywhere in the world, and they age magnificently. One would think that spending 42 months in 100% new-oak barrels would make them modern-style and oaky, but they are not. The Côte Rôtie for consumers without a millionaire s checking account is the Brune and Blonde and the Château d Ampuis, which was first introduced in It is one of the finest five or six Côtes Rôties of the appellation but is not at the level of the three single-vineyard cuvées. Robert Parker 評 Marcel GUIGAL : Marcel Guigal 當然優點良多, 但最令人深刻的是他對質量的追求 他對 Rhône Valley 的工作令整個區域的水平都提高了 更重要的, 是他意識到多數客人只會接觸到較便宜的 Côtes du Rhône 佳釀, 所以他盡力提升 Côtes du Rhône 紅白酒的質量 他是 Côte Rôtie 產區的最大生產商, 其單一葡萄園尌孕育了三大佳作.. La Landonne La Mouline 和 La Turque 這些不朽名酒所費不菲, 是世界頂尖紅酒, 而且陳化效果一流 有些人會以為, 在全新橡木桶裏待上 42 個月, 會為紅酒帶來現代感和橡木氣色, 事實卻非如此 想找價錢相宜的 Côte Rôtie 的話, 不妨考慮 Brune and Blonde 和始創於 1995 年的 Château d Ampuis 它是 Côtes Rôtie 產品排名第五或第六的美酒, 但當然尌比不上前述的三種佳釀了 btl Côte Rotie La Turque - Guigal 1991 US$ 600/900 HK$ 4400/6600 0,8cm Marianne congé capsule Henri BONNEAU by Robert Parker : Henri Bonneau 是 Châteaneuf-du-Pape 其中一個最經典和有特色的釀酒師, 對釀酒過程充滿耐性, 通常該年份過去最少五到六年後, 才會有 Châteauneuf-du-Pape 流出市面 當他認為準備尌緒時, 其頂級佳釀 Réserve des Célestins 已是絕妙, 飲來更似濃縮的牛血而非 Bonneau 區的舊 Grenache 葡萄酒 btls Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée des Célestins Henri BONNEAU 1976 US$ 3100/3500 HK$ 24300/ btl at 2.5cm, 2 btls at 3.5cm; 3 Marianne congé capsules 105

106 106 Lot 408

107 Champagne 香檳 107

108 Champagne by Robert Parker : Long possessed of a stolid reputation, Deutz was purchased by Roederer in 1996, and the low-toned richness for which the best Deutz Champagne was known seems to have been augmented by finer nuances. Furthermore, the basic brut nonvintage is more than merely reliable. Robert Parker 評香檳 : Deutz 久負冷漠的盛名, 在 1996 年被 Roederer 收購 最出色的 Deutz 香檳, 向以低調的豐富度見稱, 現在則添上了細微的差別 而且, 普通的 brut nonvintage 已比單純的可靠更進一步了 108

109 Mathusalem Amour de DEUTZ - 6L n US$ 3200/3800 HK$ 25000/ btls Champagne Perrier Jouet Cuvée Belle Epoque 1996 US$ 400/500 HK$ 2800/ btls Champagne Bollinger Rosé 1996 US$ 600/900 HK$ 5000/ btl Champagne Bollinger 1995 US$ 400/600 HK$ 3300/ btls Champagne Bollinger RD 1982 US$ 600/800 HK$ 5000/ btls Champagne Laurent Perrier Grand Siècle US$ 400/600 HK$ 3300/ btls Champagne Dom Pérignon rosé owc US$ 400/500 HK$ 3300/

110 Cognac and Armagnac 干邑和雅馬邑白蘭地 110

111 Lot

112 btl Bas-Armagnac LABERDOLIVE 1900 US$ 2100/2600 HK$ 16600/ btl Cognac BORDERIES Finest Aged 1865 US$ 1100/1700 HK$ 8850/ btl Cognac CHABANNEAU Fine Champagne 5.5cm 1850 US$ 1400/2100 HK$ 11100/ mag Cognac Domaine des Sandons E; Normandin - 7.8cm 1840 US$ 5000/7100 HK$ 38800/ btl Cognac NAPOLEON Piergel 1811 US$ 4000/5000 HK$ 31000/ btls Armagnac Hors d Age Marquis de Montesquiou XO US$ 300/400 HK$ 2500/ btls Cognac VSOP Fine Champagne Otard US$ 500/600 HK$ 4000/ btls Bas Armagnac Duc de Loussac Napoléon XO US$ 500/600 HK$ 4000/ btls Bas Armagnac Château de Laubade in box US$ 100/200 HK$ 1100/ btl Bas Armagnac Château de Laubade extra Hors d Age in box US$ 250/400 HK$ 1900/ btls Chât de Laubade Bas Armagnac X.O US$ 500/700 HK$ 3500/ btls Rémy Martin in Box with 2 glasses for cognac US$ 600/800 HK$ 4400/ btl Bas d Armagnac Chât de Laubade Sorbet (wooden box) 1969 US$ 80/100 HK$ 400/ btl Bas d Armagnac Chât de Laubade 1963 US$ 80/100 HK$ 400/ btls Prince Hubert de Polignac cognac XO Royal 1996 US$ 1500/2000 HK$ 10000/ btls Chât de Laubade Bas Armagnac, 6 XO s btls and 1 V.S.O.P s btl US$ 1500/2000 HK$ 10000/ btl Cognac, Grde Champagne Roi de Rome Marquis De Genet 1811 US$ 5000/5500 HK$ 38000/ btl Cognac, Rémy Martin, XO, Grande Champagne US$ 300/400 HK$ 2200/ Btle Eau de Vie, Fine Champagne 1858 US$ 300/400 HK$ 2200/ Btle Rémy Martin, fine champagne, Cognac, XO excellence US$ 300/400 HK$ 2200/3300

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114 435. Sculpture DIEU DE L ABONDANCE Richard Texier 2006 US$ 27000/35000 HK$ / Bronze, 60x66x44 cm DIEU DE L ABONDANCE 雕塑 Richard Texier 2006 青銅製,60x66x44 釐米. 114

115 RIChARd TEXIER Artist Richard Texier. 藝術家 Richard Texier 115

116 Richard, the painter who makes fishes fly Richard is not someone I can describe as an old friend. Our friendship is recent and yet very old, one could say timeless. We met during a trip to Morocco, in 1995; we immediately felt a strong bond with each other, both speaking the language of those who are filled with painting obsession. We recognized each other straightaway in this passion keeping our mind busy, draining our energy and filling every moment of our life. His painting is water-based, mine is in oils; they have nothing in common. But I understand his work, as he understands mine and we both like the painting of others. We also collect painting, which is rare among artists, most often turned to and absorbed by their own creation. The work of Richard, painting as well as sculpture, nurtures from the sea universe, itself an element of the world architecture. Marine charts, measuring and orientation devices used for observation and evaluation, names of imaginary and enigmatic places, form the parameters of a complicated calculation seeking to find the key to understand the mystery of the world. In this cosmic architecture, blue and yellow get organized, scribbled out with numbers and signs, giving meaning to the large family of the man who lives in it. What I appreciate in Richard s creation are fishes: they speak and sing, they fly, they bring the message, they show the way which leads to the truth. They fly in the air, participating in the harmony between things and beings. They announce the harmony to come between earth, sea and wind, between men, between the disparate forms, the forgotten objects which become essential again. 讓魚兒飛的畫家 Richard Richard 不是我的老朋友, 因為我們相識不久 但我們卻是一見如故, 情誼堪稱橫亙千古 1995 年, 我們在摩洛哥的旅途相遇, 立即感到大家之間有一種強烈的聯繫 大家的話題也離不開對繪畫的熱誠 我們也立即知道, 這種熱情會佔據我們的心靈 抽去我們的力量 填塞我們生命的每一刻 他畫的是水彩畫, 我的則是油畫, 兩者之間並無共通之處 不過我理解他的作品, 他也明白我的, 我們都喜歡對方的作品 我們兩人都收集畫作, 這在畫家之間並不常見, 因為畫家通常會被自己的作品吸引和包圍 Richard 的畫作和雕塑源自海洋 宇宙, 本身就是世界建築的一部份 大海航線圖 各種用作觀察和估量的測量導向工具 想像之中和謎般的地名等, 組成了一個複雜的計算, 試圖理解世界眾妙之門 在這個星系的建築中, 藍色和黃色井然有序 ; 潦草繪出的數字和標號, 為居住在這個大家庭的人類提供意義 我欣賞 Richard 創作的魚兒 牠們會說話和歌唱 會飛 會帶著訊息 又會指出通往真理之路 牠們在空中飛翔, 參與物質與本質之間的諧和 牠們會宣布和諧已經臨到陸地 大海和風之間 人與人之間 不同形態之間, 而那些被忘卻的物件又會再次變得重要 趙無極 Zao Wou-Ki 116

117 2010 official visit in Shanghai, chinese President Hu Jintao, 2010, 正式訪問上海, 中國國家主席胡錦濤 french President Nicolas Sarkozy and Richard Texier 2004 Zao Wou-Ki at Richard Texier s workshop ( photo Dominique Jullian) 2004, 趙無極於 Richard Texier 的工作間 ( 圖.. Dominique Jullian) 117

118 INDEX RED BORDEAUX PRESTIGES CASES : Duclot Collection : 189 Prestige Case 2004 : 191 ; 192 ; 193 ; 194 ; 195 Prestige Case 2003 : 196 ; 197 ; 198 Prestige Case 2002 : 199 ; 200 ; 201 Carre d As Magnums DUCLOT 2000 : 190 Prestige Case 2000: 202 Prestige Case 1999: 203 VERTICAL Mouton Rothschild : Lafite Rothschild - 1 Pavillon Rouge 83 ; 84 Pétrus Duhart Milon Pavillon Rouge 85 ;86 Le Pin Cheval Blanc Duhart Milon Lafite Rothschild - 2 Margaux -57; Mouton Rothschild - 91 Haut Brion Cheval Blanc Duhart Milon Mouton Rothschild - 92 Haut Brion Cheval Blanc Lynch Bages Giscours Lafite Rothschild - 3 Latour - 34 Margaux - 58 ; Mouton Rothschild - 93 Pétrus French Calix Silver gilt.19th century 118

119 Haut Brion 131 ; 132 ; Cheval Blanc Ausone Mission Haut Brion Lafite Rothschild - 4 Latour - 35; 36 Margaux - 59; 60 Mouton Rothschild - 94; 95; 96 Haut Brion Cheval Blanc 172 ; 173 L Evangile Lafite Rothschild - 5 Margaux - 61 Mouton Rothschild - 97; 98; 99 Haut Brion 134; 135; 136; 137; 138; 139 Lynch Bages 212; 213; 214; 215; 216; 217; 218; 219 Smith Haut Laffite 249; 250 Léoville Las Cases 277; 278; 279 Le Pin Lafite Rothschild 6; 7 Cos d Estournel 268; 269 La Pointe Carruades de Lafite 32 ; 33 Latour - 37 Les Forts de Latour - 56 Mouton Rothschild Palmer Smith Haut Laffite 251 ; 252 Angélus La Conseillante 299 ; 300 Beychevelle Carruades de Lafite - 33 Mouton Rothschild 101; 102; 103 Larrivet Haut Brion Haut Brion Prieuré Lichine Cos d Estournel Figeac Margaux 62; 63 Mouton Rothschild Cheval Blanc Lynch Bages Pontet Canet Cos d Estournel Latour -54; Margaux - 64 Mouton Rothschild 102; 114 Pétrus Haut Brion Cheval Blanc Ausone Angélus Cos d Estournel Lafite Rothschild 8; 17 Latour - 8; 38 Pavillon Rouge - 87 ; 88 Mouton Rothschild Pétrus Haut Brion Cheval Blanc Angélus Cos d Estournel Mouton Rothschild Haut Brion Lafite Rothschild -9; 10 ; 11 Margaux - 65 Pétrus 121 ; 122 Haut Brion Cheval Blanc Angélus Cos d Estournel Les Forts de Latour - 56bis 1989 Carruades de Lafite - 33 Latour- 39; 40; 41 Pavillon Rouge - 89 Mouton Rothschild Pétrus 123 ; 124 Haut Brion 145; 146; 147 Ausone 183 ; 184 Pichon Comtesse de Lalande 204 ;

120 Pichon Longueville Baron -207 ; 208 Lynch Bages 221 ; 222 ; 223 Clerc Milon Durfort Vivens - 230bis Mission Haut Brion 242; 243 ; 244 ; 245 ; 246 Fieuzal Canon Tertre Roteboeuf 264 ; 265 ; 266 ; 267 Cos d Estournel Gruaud Larose Branaire Ducru Le Pin Batailley Lafite Rothschild - 12; 13 ; 14 Latour - 42; 43; 44; 45; 46 Margaux 66; 67; 68; 69; 70; 71 Mouton Rothschild 106; 107; 108; 109; 110; 111; 112 Pétrus Haut Brion 148 ; 149 ; 150 ; 151 Cheval Blanc 178 ; 179 Ausone 185 Pichon Comtesse de Lalande Pichon Longueville Baron 209 ; 210 Lynch Bages 224 ; 225 Mission Haut Brion 247 Figeac :- 263 Cos d Estournel 275 ; 276 La Conseillante Pétrus Haut Brion 144 ; 152 ; 153 ; Lafite Rothschild 15; 16 Mouton Rothschild Pétrus -125 Lynch Bages Haut Brion Latour - 47 Margaux 72 ; 73 Haut Brion Cheval Blanc Durfort Vivens -231 ; 232 ; 233 Brane Cantenac 234 ; 235 Cos d Estournel Lafite Rothschild - 18 Margaux - 74 Pétrus Haut Brion 157 ; 158 Cheval Blanc Mission Haut Brion Gruaud Larose Lafite Rothschild - 19 Latour 48 Margaux 75; 76 Pétrus Ausone 186 Giscours : La Conseillante Lafite Rothschild - 16 Latour 49; 50 Mouton Rothschild 113; 114 Pétrus Cheval Blanc Ausone Brane Cantenac Cos d Estournel 269; Lafite Rothschild - 17; 20; 21 Margaux 77 Haut Brion Ausone Lafite Rothschild - 22 Latour - 51 Margaux - 78 Mouton Rothschild Pétrus Haut Brion 160; 161; 162 Duhart Milon Mouton Rothschild Pétrus Gruaud Larose Gruaud Larose

121 1976 Latour - 52 Haut Brion Latour - 54 Haut Brion 163; Lafite Rothschild - 23 Gruaud Larose Latour 53 Mouton Rothschild Latour - 54 Angélus Lafite Rothschild - 24 Margaux 79; Gruaud Larose 284; 285; 286; 287; 288; 289; 290; Haut Brion Lafite Rothschild Latour Lafite Rothschild Haut Brion Haut Brion Beychevelle Lafite Rothschild Lafite Rothschild Lafite Rothschild - 30 Margaux 81; Lafite Rothschild Cheval Blanc Gruaud Larose Léoville Las Cases Haut Brion Lafite Rothschild Haut Brion Angélus

122 BORDEAUX SWEET WHITE VERTICAL of Yquem from 1900 to 2005 in btls and from 1970 to 2005 in magnums: Yquem Yquem Yquem Myrat 333; 334; 335; 336; 337; Yquem Lafaurie Peyraguey Yquem 310; 311; 312; Yquem Myrat Yquem Yquem 316; Yquem Suduiraut: 342 Broustet Doisy Védrinnes : Yquem 317; 318 ; 319 Rieussec: 341 Suduiraut 343 Climens 340 Broustet Yquem 317 ; Yquem

123 1984 Yquem - 322; Yquem Yquem Yquem Yquem Yquem Yquem - 328bis 1856 Yquem Yquem Yquem BURGUNDY 2007: OWC of 12 btls Domaine de la Romanée Conti including : Romanée Conti -La Tache Richebourg Romanée St Vivant Grands Echezeaux Echezeaux : OWC of 12 btls Domaine de la Romanée Conti including Romanée Conti -La Tache Richebourg Romanée St Vivant Grands Echezeaux Echezeaux - 348OWC of 10 btls Domaine de la Romanée Conti including Romanée Conti -La Tache Richebourg Romanée St Vivant Grands Echezeaux : OWC of 10 btls Domaine de la Romanée Conti including : Romanée Conti -La Tache Richebourg Romanée St Vivant Grands Echezeaux La Tache Richebourg DRC 363 ; 364 Grands Echezeaux DRC Echezeaux DRC 369 Nuits St Georges Hospices de Beaune 397 ; 398 Pommard Hospices de Beaune

124 2003: Lot of 7 mag Domaine de la Romanée Conti including OWC Romanée Conti -La Tache Richebourg Romanée St Vivant Grands Echezeaux Echezeaux- Montrachet Corton Charlemagne Coche Dury 375 ; : Montrachet Henri Boillot 400 ; 401 ; : Corton Charlemagne Coche Dury : Romanée Conti 352 ; 353 La Grande Rue Lamarche : Meursault 1er cru Perrières - Coche- Dury : Meursault 1er cru Perrières - Coche- Dury : Corton Charlemagne Coche Dury Vosne Romanée Cros Parentoux- Henri Jayer Romanée St Vivant - 362bis 1992: La Tache Richebourg DRC Echezeaux DRC Meursault 1er cru Perrières - Coche- Dury 381 ; 382 Echezeaux Henri Jayer : Meursault 1er cru Perrières - Coche- Dury 383 Vosne Romanée - Henri Jayer Musigny Comte Georges de Vogue : OWC of 10 btls Domaine de la Romanée Conti including -La Tache Richebourg Romanée St Vivant Echezeaux Romanée Conti Echezeaux DRC Echezeaux Henri Jayer 388 Musigny Jacques-Frederic Mugnier : Romanée Conti La Tache Romanée St Vivant DRC 361 ; 362 Echezeaux DRC Musigny Comte Georges de Vogue Bonnes Mares Comte Georges de Vogue

125 1986 : Vosne Romanée - Henri Jayer Echezeaux - Henri Jayer : Echezeaux DRC Bonnes Mares Georges Roumier Musigny Comte Georges de Vogue : Grands Echezeaux DRC Bonnes Mares Georges Roumier Musigny Comte Georges de Vogue : Echezeaux Henri Jayer 390 Nuits St Georges 1er cru Les Meurgers Henri Jayer : Vosne Romanée Henri Jayer Bonnes Mares Georges Roumier : Bonnes Mares Georges Roumier : Richebourg Henri Jayer : Echezeaux Henri Jayer : Romanée Conti Musigny Comte Georges de Vogue : Richebourg Henri Jayer : Richebourg DRC RHONE 1991 : Côte Rotie La Turque Guigal : Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée des Celestins Henri Bonneau

126 CHAMPAGNE 2000 Amour de Deutz Bollinger Rosé Perrier Jouet Belle Epoque Bollinger Dom Pérignon Rosé Bollinger RD SM Laurent Perrier Grand Siècle COGNAC AND ARMAGNAC 1900 Bas Armagnac Laberdolive Cognac Borderies Eau de Vie Cognac Chabanneau Cognac des Sandons Cognac Napoléon Piergel Cognac Grande Champagne Roi de Rome 431 Armagnac Hors d Age Marquis de Montesquiou XO Cognac VSOP Fine Champagne Otard Bas Armagnac Duc de Loussac Napoléon XO Bas Armagnac Château de Laubade Bas Armagnac Château de Laubade Extra Hors d Age Bas Armagnac Château de Laubade XO Cognac Rémy Martin XO 426 Bas Armagnac Château de Laubade Sorbet Bas Armagnac Château de Laubade 428 Cognac Prince Hubert de Polignac XO 429 Bas Armagnac Château de Laubade 430 Cognac Rémy Martin XO Grande Champagne Cognac Rémy Martin XO Excellence Fine Champagne

127 BOTTLE SIZES 1/2 Bottle 0,375L 230 bis - Durfort Vivens Durfort Vivens Brane Canteanc Brane Canteanc 1981 Magnums 1,5L Lafite Rothschild lafite Rothschild Latour Latour Margaux Margaux Mouton Rothschild Mouton Rothschild Mouton Rothschild Mouton Rothschild Mouton Rothschild Pétrus Pétrus Pétrus Haut Brion Haut Brion Batailley Angélus Angélus Angélus Angélus Figeac Figeac Cos d Estournel Cos d Estournel Cos d Estournel Cos d Estournel Cos d Estournel Cos d Estournel Léoville Las Cases magnums d Yquem Yquem Yquem Yquem Myrat Myrat 1997 Double Magnums 3L 25 - Lafite Rothschild Lafite Rothschild Margaux Smith Haut Laffite Le Pin Le Pin Yquem Myrat 2001 Jéroboam 5L 27 - Lafite Rothschild Mouton Rothschild Montrachet Henri Boillot 2002 (4,5L) Impériale 6L Smith Haut Laffite Beychevelle Myrat Amour de Deutz Balthazar 12L Larrivet Haut Brion 1997 Nebuchadnezzar 15L Yquem La Grande Rue Lamarche 1999 Mélchior 18L La Pointe Lafaurie Peyraguey mag du Domaine de la Romanée Conti Romanée Conti, La Tâche, Richebourg, Echezeaux, Grands Echezeaux, Romanée St Vivant, Montrachet Echezeaux Henri Jayer Cognac des Sandons 127

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130 MANDARIN HOTEL Fax : Jack - Philippe RUELLAN Auction House Fax : +33(0) ruellan.cpriseur@wanadoo.fr Website : 130

131 MANDARIN HOTEL 傳真 : Jack - Philippe RUELLAN 拍賣行傳真 : +33(0) 電郵 : ruellan.cpriseur@wanadoo.fr 網頁 : 131

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140 140 LEVEL / ULLAGE DESCRIPTIONS AND INTERPRETATIONS

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148 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS On the occasion of this first auction sale of great wines and prestigious alcohols in Hong Kong, we especially wish to thank all those who have been kind enough to support us in this project, as well as all the persons who have entrusted us with their precious cellars. Richard Texier, patron of the event and his wife, Brigitte The châteaux Smith Haut Laffite Grand Cru Classé of Graves and Myrat, Grand Cru Classé of Sauternes as well as the Champagnes Deutz for their very kind participation For their professionalism and collaboration, Catherine Martel-Roberts - Lives Haugen - Nina Colls - Helen Cheung - Joanne Cheng and Bruno Desfrançais of the Mandarin Oriental For their active support, Marie-Carole Ancelin-de la Chapelle, Marie Line Dumont of MCA Communication, Odile Genetet of LBP, Janet Chui of the Hong Kong Tourism Board, Anne Lee of the French Chamber in Paris. Richard Green, the Société Sarment, Olivier Lange and Christopher Pourtalé of the Gazette Drouot; Benoist Simmat and Régis of the Revue des Vins de France For their precious and gracious help, Dominique Duchiron, Emmanuelle Bachschmidt of the Hong Kong Trade Development Council and Oriane Chenain of the French Chamber in Hong Kong. Olivier Thiénot, Master of Wine and Laura Schouman of the Ecole du Vin For the art photography of the catalogue, Jaime Ocampo - Rangel, Lia Ocampo - Rangel and Oscar Ricardo Chaparro; for the Art Direction of the catalogue layout, Arya Phouangsavath and for the translation, Gwenaël Hubert For the coordination and logistics, Frederic Paillard and Julien Boellmann Our press Agent, responsible for public relationship, Isabelle Nardari Lastly, all the team and staff of Jack-Philippe Ruellan Auction House in Vannes for their remarkable work Nadia, Muriel, Sébastien, Romaine, Christine, Françoise, Myriam and Audrey. 148

149 REFERENCES BOOKS : Parker s Wine Buyer s Guide Robert M. Parker, Jr Vintage Wine Companion Michael Broadbent s WEBSITES : fr.wikipedia.org;

150 Memory of Colors I Dreamt of a rainbow built with the colors of men, tribes, cultures. The rainbow of a rare, diverse, precious, essential, yet fragile human nature. This Memory of colors, as old as the wind, the sun and rain is a slow process. It is a story in progress that needs to be listened to, seen, protected and helped. Memory of Colors brings together the last authentic cultural minorities into one big masterpiece. This masterpiece portrays the last authentic ethnic groups of the world, and symbolically relates each to a unique color. «Memory of colors» is a portrait of the last authentic ethnic groups on Earth. In 1999, artist Jaime Ocampo Rangel, began his intimate and engaging project. After coming into contact with the Kogui people in his native Colombia, Ocampo Rangel had a spiritual and artistic revelation. He decided to document ethnic groups threatened by globalisation, linking each group to a colour specific to their cultural identity. Jack - Philippe Ruellan participates on this project since the beginning

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152 This amazing composition of colors allows to change each portrait.you can compose ore change later by choosing among all the collection throug the Appel Store App. withth the I-Pad or the I-Phone Memory of Colors is best seller Apps in the world. Live Guaranty Price : 200,000 USD

153 MEMORY OF COLORS World Tour exhibition You can participate in this project that will give you an important visibility with the medias We will embark on a journey around the world, starting on the Seine River under the Eiffel Tower in Paris and heading towards the Amazon in Brazil, to Venezuela, and to Colombia to explore indigenous cultural traces. It will proceed West via the Panama Canal heading through the Pacific Ocean, Australia, Asia, and Africa. The journey ends underneath the United Nations building in New York for a final exhibition. There are over one hundred cultures to visit in an anthropological study to know what is left of the special cultures in our world. We already know that for some cultures it will be too late. For the others we will try to make them understand the importance of cherishing their treasured heritage. Our sailing boat will form the exhibition. We project Memory of Colors photography and videos onto the large sails when docked in destination cities. The experience will be filmed and televised globally with the help of UNESCO. The resulting film will be broadcast on various television networks, but also played in important places like UNESCO s headquarters. As a contributor, your name can be featured on one of the walls inside the boat or on the sails if you want your name or your company to be seein in multimedia worlwide programs.(or can remain private if you prefer). A way for you to travel with us. You can contact Jaime Ocampo-Rangel during the wine auction with the Jack-Philippes Ruellan s team in the Mandarin Oriental hotel in Hong Kong from the 25tth april Until mai the 3d jaime@memoiredescouleurs.com Tél :

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155 L ÉCOLE DU VIN DE FRANCE ( The Wine Academy of France ) offers the best educational opportunities for amateurs and professionals alike to gain knowledge and expertise in wine. With more than 15,000 students per year, L École du Vin is the French leader in international wine tasting courses and services. Olivier Thienot, owner of L Ecole du Vin de France is well know in France as one of the leading wine tasters and also French wine experts with over 20 years of experience. He will lead a wine tasting on Friday, April 29. Ecole du Vin de France Paris- Hong Kong

156 Love is to rejoice in the happiness of others Why not dream a little, in a world that dreams no more Some of Champagne s wines are created due to inspirational impulse, and take form thanks to a mysterious alchemy between wines that have been benchmarks for ages. CHAMPAGNE DEUTZ 16, r u e J e a n s o n Aÿ Tél : (0) Fax : (0) f rance@champagne-deut z. f r - z.com

157 Château Smith Haut Lafitte owes its reputation as the «most Graveslike Graves» to its unbroken «gunzian» gravel soil, which gives to the wines their typical smoky notes. Since the Cathiards took the property over, in 1990, the Château is back to the highest level with elegant and complex wines, full bodied, in white as well as in red. The Château Smith Haut Lafitte red is a wine of wide volume, with a silky texture and a great aromatic charm, which ages beautifully. The Château Smith Haut Lafitte white is also grown, on its lees, in the barrels coming from the integrated cooperage. It is a long ageing potential wine, elegant and flavorsome, with delicate citrus fruit flavors and white flowers aromas The wines impress, in both colors, with their precision and their length in mouth.

158 Rent the Historical Château de Servigny for a unique experience in France. Luxury and Magnificent Historical Chateau with heated pool and tennis in Normandy. Chateau de Servigny has a magnificent park of 20 acres and the interior is elegantly furnished with period antiques furniture with all the modern comforts you could wish for. Weekly rental 8 bedrooms with bathrooms 15 sleeps Tél (0) Fax + 33 (0) contact@chateau-servigny.fr

159 ChâteauTurpault For sale The most exclusive Ocean view of South Brittany Chateau Turpault, Private Home Romantic Castle built in 1910 Contact : jboellmann@hotmail.fr + 33 (0) Manoir de Guersallic For sale Typical Manor house in granite of the 17th century, Centre Brittany Contact : elisabeth-lebihan@orange.fr

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161 The Picasso s first Atelier in Paris For sale Contact : info@buenaventuraproductions.com Tél : rue Gabrielle Paris