discover Cooking 發現 烹飪 oday s 入廚樂無窮 specials

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1 discover Cooking 發現 烹飪 oday s 入廚樂無窮 specials 54 discovery july 2009

2 Keen cooks are signing up for culinary classes around the world to learn from some top chefs. Grab an apron and get a taste of what s on offer 一些熱衷於烹飪的人士, 紛紛穿上圍裙, 走進世界各地的烹飪學校, 向名廚學習一 兩道拿手好菜 The weekly plan for cooking lessons at La Combe en Périgord in France 在法國的 La combe en Périgord 烹飪學校, 為學員規劃好一整個星期的烹飪課程 july 2009 discovery 55

3 discover Cooking 發現 烹飪 Local ingredients are used at La Combe en Périgord (right) where students make grilled figs (below) and other dishes La combe en Périgord 採用當地食材 ( 右圖 ), 讓學員炮製烤無花果 ( 下圖 ) 等菜式 French lessons La Combe en Périgord This residential, English-language cooking school in the Dordogne region in southwest France pioneered the guest-chef concept and hosts classes by high-profile international teachers and cooking professionals. The school is open from April to November, offering 15 courses designed around the best seasonal produce in a region consistently voted the most important for food in France. It is run by Wendely Harvey, an award-winning cookbook publisher, and her husband Robert Cave- Rogers, a former executive with the Mandarin Oriental hotel group. They followed a dream, moving to France in 1999 where they restored and transformed a romantic French farmhouse into a luxuriously appointed residential cooking school. In 10 years more than 40 chefs have greeted more than 1,000 guests at La Combe. There s a strong emphasis on American (Barbara Fenzl, Paula Lambert, Lora Brody) and Australian (Diane Holuigue, Stephanie Alexander) cooks and the famed Australian cooking school Accoutrement routinely features. The classes are instructive, informal, friendly and handson. Students learn to cook three complete fourcourse menus under the guidance of the guest chef. The cuisine differs according to the personal style of each chef but always embraces local ingredients including those grown in the organic garden. Check the website for places in the autumn courses. A maximum of eight students stay in sumptuous split-level ensuite apartments surrounding a central garden and cobbled courtyard. At the heart of La Combe is an 18th-century stone country house with open fireplaces, a library, dining room and a All photos (including menu on previous page): Carla Coulson ACP Syndication 56 discovery july 2009

4 (far right) 山山山山山山山山山山山山山山山山山山 by Susan Owens vast, fully equipped country kitchen. All this in a 12-hectare property with a swimming pool. Tuition aside, Harvey and Cave-Rogers share their local knowledge with daily, chauffeured visits to nearby artisans including truffle farmers, cheese-makers, walnut-oil producers, mushroom farmers and regional wine-makers. You ll shop for ingredients at local farmers markets and dine out at eateries that span farmhouse cuisine to Michelinstarred restaurants. Other visits on offer include formal French gardens, chateaux, antique fairs and night food markets. Students stay in beautifully appointed apartments with French antiques, fine linen and ultra-modern bathrooms. The atmosphere is reminiscent of a large country house party where the hosts invite you to share their world. Their home is your home. Cost: Eight-day residential class is 3,200 (about HK$35,000) all inclusive of accommodation, tuition, food, wine, entrance fees and restaurant dining. La Combe en Périgord, Les Eyzies de Tayac, Dordogne, France, Guests enjoy lunch at the Michelin-starred Le Vieux Logis (top) as part of the course run by Wendely Harey and Robert Cave- Rogers (left) 賓客在米芝蓮星級餐廳 Le vieux Logis( 上圖 ) 享用午餐 ; 這是 wendely harey 及 robert caverogers (左圖)開辦的烹飪課程中的節目之一 july 2009 discovery 57

5 discover Cooking 發現 烹飪 Accoutrement s classes (above) feature avante-garde and traditional chefs. Sue Jenkins (right) has run the school for 29 years accoutrement 的烹飪課程 ( 上圖 ) 分別請來新派及傳統的廚師擔任導師 這家由 sue Jenkins( 右圖 ) 開辦的烹飪學校已有 29 年的悠久歷史 Green papaya salad by Chef Martin Boetz of Longrain Restaurant Longrain 餐廳大廚 Martin Boetz 炮製的青木瓜沙律 aussie adventure by Pat Nourse Accoutrement Cooking School Don t let the name mislead you: Accoutrement is no mere accessory, having been a kitchenware store that has served the people of Sydney s moneyed north shore for more than 30 years. With 29 years to its name under owner Sue Jenkins, it has seen generations of food enthusiasts pass through its doors, each of them leaving with some fresh nugget of inspiration or information, not to mention some quality equipment. A small, nonresidential school, Accoutrement offers classes that are distinguished by their intimacy and convivial atmosphere, whether they re for groups of 16 or demonstrations of up to 35 students. The roster of chefs includes avant-garde stars and old-school practitioners in the Australian cooking industry. Danny Russo, known for his gutsy Italian cooking at The Beresford Hotel, likens presenting at Accoutrement to doing a Broadway run after the film-studio pace of restaurant kitchens. With the classes we can let the participants in on the behind-the-scenes activity of the business; there are bad jokes and lots of laughs they love it. Brent Savage, chef at Bentley Restaurant & Bar, one of the city s edgiest dining hot spots, enjoys the direct connection with students. The thing I like best is the feedback from the customers, he says. Some of the regulars at our restaurant travel from all over Sydney to attend. In addition to crossing town to learn the secrets of perfect shortcrust from master pâtissier Lorraine Godsmark of Yellow Bistro, or going to Longrain Restaurant for a chef s table with Thai chef Martin Boetz, students travel with Jenkins and some of the school s chef partners on gourmet tours around the world, whether it s Sardinia with Giovanni Pilu or Tuscany with Stefano Manfredi. Wherever they go, it s the assurance of a personal touch that makes Accoutrement s classes unique. Cost: Classes start from A$99 (about HK$600) Accoutrement, 611 Military Road, Mosman, Sydney, Australia, Photos. Accoutrement: Veronica Gillmer. Pappaya salad: John Fotiadis Newspix 58 discovery july 2009

6 Longrain s braised beef shin with a hot and sour salad (below) Longrain 餐廳的燉牛脛與酸辣沙律 ( 下圖 ) where To Learn 拜師學藝 Ireland Ballymaloe Cookery School, Cork Italy Divina Cucina, Florence New Zealand Ruth Pretty Catering, Te Horo Singapore Shermay s Cooking School At-sunrice, GlobalChef Academy South Africa Silwood School of Cookery, Cape Town Photos. Cheesecake: Veronica Gillmer. Beef: Jeremy Simons Vivid Productions Brent Savage (above) and chicken, his way (top). Learn how to create white chocolate mojito cheesecakes (left) in Valli Little s class Brent savage( 上圖 ) 以獨特手法烹調出可口的雞肉菜式 ( 最上圖 ) 參加 valli Little 的烹飪班, 可學習製作白朱古力 mojito 芝士蛋糕 ( 左圖 ) Thailand The Oriental Thai Cooking School, Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok com/bangkok/leisure/ cooking_school/ United States Draegar s Cooking School, San Francisco Bay area, California school.com july 2009 discovery 59

7 discover Cooking 發現 烹飪 Pick up your ingredients at the market (right) before joining Pak Bagus (below right) in class 向 Pak Bagus( 下圖右一 ) 學藝之前, 先到市場 ( 右圖 ) 選購食材 Bali s bounty by Annabel Jackson chef heinz von holzen s class features 22 recipes 由名廚 heinz von holzen 開辦的烹飪課程, 教授 22 道美食 Bumbu Bali Restaurant & Cooking School If he didn t have a name as distinctive as Heinz von Holzen, you would assume this hugely passionate chef was Balinese. The place has overtaken this Swiss national s soul and he moves around the local street market as if he were born there. But this morning Von Holzen is disappointed at the fish market on Jimbaran Bay. He can t find the bright eyes he s looking for, which means that today s snappers aren t as fresh as they could be. Von Holzen runs a marvelous cooking school. He personally picks up participants from their hotels at 6am. During cooking demonstrations in the airy kitchen he throws out anecdotes about Balinese culture while bruising lemongrass and grinding candlenuts, assisted by Balinese chef Pak Bagus. Instead of teaching standard fare, the class features 22 recipes. There s nothing quite like discovering the difference between galangal and lesser galangal by getting the aromas of them on your fingers. After the market visit there s a breakfast of black rice pudding, Balinese cakes and fresh fruit. A late lunch at the long table in the dining pavilion includes many of the dishes featured in the class. Balinese cuisine is subtle, sometimes delicate and even humble, not as spicy as one might think and, crucially, based on pastes. Learning about the tiny differences in ingredients between the paste for vegetables and the paste for chicken takes one to the very spirit of Balinese cuisine. Class cost: US$75, plus tax and service charges Bumbu Bali Restaurant & Cooking School Jl. Pratama Tanjung Benoa, Nusa Dua, Bali, Indonesia Photos. Cookery class and nasi campur dish: Heinz von Holzen. Market woman: Angelo Cavalli TIPS Images/OTHK 60 discovery july 2009

8 Perfect a delicious nasi campur (below) 峇里風味的雜錦拼盤(下圖), 美味滿分 Cathay Pacific Airways flies to Paris 10 times a week, Sydney three times a day, and Bali 11 times a week 國泰航空每周有十班航機飛往巴黎 每日三班航機飛往悉尼, 及每周有 11 班航機飛往峇里 入廚樂無窮 法國 La combe en PÉriGord La Combe en Périgord 是一間位於法國西南部 Dordogne 地區的烹飪學校, 以英語授 課, 並為學員提供住宿, 由獲得多個獎項的 烹飪書出版人 Wendely Harvey 及其夫婿 Robert Cave-Rogers 主理 學校開創了 客席廚師 概念, 由來自美國及澳洲的國際名 廚和烹飪專家授課 學校在每年 4 月至 11 月 授課, 學員可以在這個法國著名的美食重 鎮, 學習以當地的時令食材炮製 15 道菜式 課程具啟發性, 上課的氣氛輕鬆隨和, 讓 學員享受下廚烹飪的樂趣 在客席廚師的指導下, 學員學習炮製三個完整的四道菜套餐 除了一般的課堂之外,Harvey 與 Cave- Rogers 每天均會帶領學員乘車遊覽, 拜訪附近的工匠和農夫, 加深對當地的認識 學員入住的公寓以法國古董佈置, 房間採用高級的床上用品, 配備現代化浴室 ; 豪華的環境再加上主人家的盛情款待, 令你恍若置身豪門的鄉郊派對, 有賓至如歸之感 收費 : 八天課程連住宿收費 3,200 歐元 ( 約 35,000 港元 ), 包括住宿 課程 食材 酒 入場費及在餐廳用餐的費用 La combe en Périgord 法國 dordogne 地區 :24620 Les eyzies de Tayac 電話 : 悉尼 accoutrement 烹飪學校 Accoutrement 是一家位於悉尼的廚具店, 在悉尼富裕的北岸社區已開業超過 30 年, 而由 Sue Jenkins 經營的 Accoutrement 烹飪學校亦有 29 年歷史, 多年來吸引許多美食愛好者前來學藝, 在課程結束後帶著新鮮的烹飪靈感和知識離開, 部分人更會購買一套高品質的新廚具, 將這些煮食器具帶回家 Accoutrement 烹飪學校規模較小, 不提供住宿服務, 課堂以活潑親切見稱, 由 16 人一組的小班到 35 人的示範班均有 在學校教授廚藝的導師, 除了前衛新派菜的廚藝明星, 亦有擅於烹調澳洲傳統道地美食的廚師 學員不只可以發掘澳洲本土的各式烹飪秘技, 到當地不同的美食餐廳與城中名廚習藝, 更可隨同 Jenkins 及 Accoutrement 的夥伴廚師組成的美食團, 走訪全球各地 你可以與意大利菜名廚 Giovanni Pilu 同訪撒丁島, 或者和 Stefano Manfredi 盡享托斯卡尼的美食 無論學員隨著夥伴廚師前往世界的哪個角落去學習新的菜式, 都一樣能感受到 Accoutrement 烹飪學校與別不同的親切氣氛 收費 : 廚藝班由 99 澳元起 ( 約 600 港元 ) accoutrement 澳洲悉尼 :611 Military road,mosman 電話 : 峇里 BuMBu BaLi 餐廳及烹飪學校 大廚 Heinz von Holzen 在當地的市場穿梭自如, 恍若這裡就是他出生的老家, 而市場內每一位攤販都認識他 von Holzen 雖然有助手幫忙, 但他仍會在早上 6 時親自到酒店接待烹飪班學員, 然後在開放式廚房內示範不同菜式 在峇里廚師 Pak Bagus 的協助之下, 他會一邊向學員細說峇里的風土人情, 一邊熟練地研磨檸檬草和石栗種子 透過親手研磨香料, 學員可以清楚分辨各種香料的不同之處 這是一間非一般的烹飪學校,von Holzen 摒棄教授例牌菜式, 讓學員專心鑽研 22 款食譜 去過市場後, 學員可以享用黑米布丁 峇里糕點和新鮮水果等豐盛早餐 上完課後, 大家會在飯廳享用午餐, 當中有些菜餚是上午於課堂烹調的菜式 峇里菜清淡可口, 有些菜式更稱得上簡樸細膩, 並非一般人想像中辛辣 峇里人對醬料的調製非常注重, 例如蔬菜用的醬料和雞肉用的醬料, 在材料上就有微妙的分別 因此, 要煮得一手好的峇里菜, 就必須懂得辨別不同醬料的特性 收費 :75 美元, 另加稅金及服務費 Bumbu Bali restaurant & cooking school 印尼峇里 :Jl. Pratama Tanjung Benoa, nusa dua 電話 : july 2009 discovery 61